La Grainetier, La Flotte, Ile de Re

Wednesday 24th September 2014 - Friday 26th September 2014

The plan for Wednesday is to do "a little" cycling. Little do we know how much we are actually going to do!

The island is fairly small, we have a map, what can go wrong?

We set off heading for a place called Sainte Marie de Re, which is on the "opposite" coast.

Ile de Re is a cyclists paradise, reasonably flat, plenty of dedicated  cycle tracks and/or quiet roads.

There are even signposts on the cycle tracks.

We peddle and peddle, and, we come to....

Le Bois Plage en Re!

At least, it IS on the opposite coast!

Never mind, it is a pleasant place, and (it is not often you will hear me say this) it has a very pleasant market.

Our first purchase is a rather clever little device to chop onion, garlic, parsley etc. It is hand operated, and, we are assured by the lady on the stall, dishwasher proof.

I am always reluctant to buy kitchen "gadgets", because, Kathleen, although very accomplished at many things, is (now how can I put this?) not exactly an enthusiastic cook. (is that a "safe" comment, I wonder).

The gadget is purchased on the understanding, she will actually use it more than once.

Time will tell.

As usual in your average French market, there are excellent food stalls, and we are able to buy our picnic lunch of ham quiche plus a  ham and cheese sandwich.

Suitably fed, we decide to continue or quest to find Sainte Marie de Re.

Disregarding the map, and following the signposts, .....

we eventually find ourselves at a very beautiful, deserted beach...

we are now in serious need of an alcohol top up, it is thirsty work, all of this peddling.


We press on, and, eventually find the village square in Sainte Marie de Re, complete with very pleasant bar.

Refreshed, we head for the campsite, via La Flotte.

My trusty Runkeeper App, tells me we have cycled almost 15 miles, this is a record for us on the folding bicycles.

Kathleen cannot wait to try out her new kitchen gadget, and soon has a nice collection of chopped onion and garlic.

This, or course, means she must cook something.

So, here she is, rustling up a culinary delight, alfresco!

We do not have a dishwasher in the campervan, but, I can confirm, the "gadget" is easy to wash by hand.

Will it get a second outing?



Even when enjoying yourself, clothes get dirty and have to be washed, so, Thursday is a "housework" day, clothes washing, riding to the supermarket on the scooter to buy supplies.

New wine glasses to replace those I broke (damned speed bumps)!

The kitchen "gadget" actually gets a second outing, Kathleen cooking alfresco, second day in a row.

Perhaps it was worth 15Euro?

The campsite closes in a few days (30th September), and may people are packing up to leave.

Friday, Kathleen suggests we do a tour of the island on the scooter.

I may be a cynic, but, I am immediately suspicious.

We ride to several places, St Martin de Re, La Couarde Sur Mer, then Kathleen suggests, we go to Le Bois Plage En Re again.

It so happens, pure coincidence you understand, there is an even bigger market on at Le Bois on a Friday.

Kathleen acquires a new pair of shoes, they do not quite fit, but, what a bargain, only 10Euro!

I am joking, they do fit, and, they look very nice, they were only 10Euros.

We return to the van, and have a light lunch, then go out cycling again, there is no doubt, the best way to see this place is on a bicycle!

We ride towards RiveDoux Plage, which is near the bridge which links the island to La Rochelle.

It is another absolutely beautiful day.

I cannot believe how fortunate we have been with the weather, fingers crossed it keeps this way!





But, cycling in the sun makes you thirsty, so, Kathleen is soon peddling off ahead in search of a bar.











Where she is soon on the Vin Rose.













Then, back to La Flotte, this time, for ice cream!

Leaving Chateau-d'Olonne, and, on to Ile De Re

Sunday 21st September 2014 - Tuesday 23rd September 2014

After all of the beautiful weather, today starts as a "frizzy hair" day, foggy and damp.

But, it Sunday, so, frizzy hair or not, Kathleen has to go to church!

While Kathleen does the "church thing", I amuse myself watching a "parade" of British Classic Cars.

Not sure what it is all about, but, there are more  Classic British cars here, than there are in Britain!

Then we visit a small area of the town, where all of the houses have mosaics on the walls, made of sea shells.

Again, not sure what it is all about, but, very pretty.

Lunch beckons, cocktails, lunch, followed by Cointreau, is Kathleen safe to ride home?

We plan to leave here tomorrow, so, after packing every things away (except the bicycles) and loading the scooter on the trailer, we peddle down to the coast, for one last evening of watching the sea.




























Monday morning, time to leave Le Chateau-d'Olonne and head for our next destination, La Flotte-en-Re, La Grainetier on the Ile de Re.

An easy 60 mile journey.

There is a (toll) bridge, from La Rochelle, to Ile De Re.

The toll, varies depending on the season, at this time of year (September) it is 8Euro for Campervans upto 3.5Tonne and 16Euro for vans over 3.5Tonne.

Much to Kathleens delight, we are charged only 8Euro, despite being 3.750Tonne.

Clearly, the toll booths do not have a weighing mechanism!

Weather continues sunny and warm.

Spoke too soon, Tuesday morning, we have to put the heating on in the van!

Our English neighbours (a very elderly couple, towing a caravan) are leaving. The lady of the pair supposedly hails from Newcastle, you would never think it from her accent, she must have gone to elocution lessons!

Their caravan mover has gone on the blink, so, we render assistance manhandling the caravan into position to hitch up. They are heading towards Cahors, goodness knows how they are going to manage to heave the caravan about.

By lunch time, the sun is out again, and it is warm enough to venture out on our bicycles to explore.

Into La Flotte, the nearest village, to check out the church, ready for Sunday!

Then on a few more miles to Saint Martin de Re, a much more interesting and pretty village.

The "old" village and port are surrounded by a very extensive and impressive wall, dating from 1600's or possibly before. complete with moat (now dry).






There is an impressive church, partly ruined.

It has suffered all kinds of calamities during the centuries, storm and bombardment (not by us, for once, but, by the Dutch).









We find a bar, to have a refreshing beer, and observe this, no doubt worried, campervan driver, who has ended up on the quayside, with a rather large campervan, and a very narrow road, plus lots of pedestrians and cyclists to avoid.

Chateau-d'Olonne, continued

Friday 19th September 2014 - Saturday 20th September 2014

So far, we have found only one supermarket, so, I went out exploring on the scooter, and in quick time found a Le Clerc, and two of Kathleen's favourite Lidl! One as it turns out is in walking distance.

Learned another valuable lesson, 16:30 is rush hour in this part of France, the colleges obviously finish for the day at about this time, the roads were filled with teen age students, on 50cc scooters, buzzing about like a swarm of bees.

After a rather lazy day on Friday, only a walk to the coast in the evening, we decide to do a more ambitious cycle ride today (Saturday).

There is a cycle track along the coast, signposted to a place called Port Bourgenay, I have checked out the route (but on the road) on the scooter, it is a bit up and down, but, no need to mention that until we are well on our way!

The weather forecast says "rain, and chance of a storm", but, it is hot and sunny, with blue skies.

The signposting suggests our planned destination is 5km away, (about three miles), but, whoever measured that must have had an faulty tape measure.

There is a slight grumble of complaint, from up front, as we encounter the first hill, but, as I point out, every up, has a down.


A few more hills later and helpful, supportive comments from my good self, ie "stop complaining and save your breath for peddling", and we are safely sitting in a bar, overlooking the marina, having cool beers and chips.

According to the cycle computer, it is just over seven miles, not thee!, the Runkeeper app, which is probably more accurate, puts it at 6.54 miles, but, whatever, definitely more than three miles!


The rather grand, chateau appearance building, in the photographs, is actually a church, although to me, apart from the religious statues, it does not look very church like.

The highlight of Saturday evening? the Pizza van visits the campsite at 18:30, so, it is pizza and red wine for our evening meal. 

Chateau-d'Olonne, continued

Wednesday 17th September 2014 - Thursday 19th September 2014

Off to the dentist with Kathleen, for 10:00am appointment.

All goes smoothly, almost an hour to do a root filling, and make a temporary repair, she will have to get a crown on the tooth, when we get home.

It costs 106Euro, which is about the same as it would have cost at an NHS dentist back in the UK. Not sure if we will get any of that back on our E111. If we do, perhaps the moral of the story is, why not come to France for dental treatment, it may be cheaper!

After lunch, a long walk through the countryside, past this restored Abbey (not open), dating from 1100.

Then ice cream, and a leisurely walk back along the coast.








Thursday. A bit of a hypothetical day. For example, hypothetically, if Kathleen had a grey hair in her head, today would be the day for me to exercise my NVQ skills in the application of hair dye.

So, that is Thursday morning (hypothetically) occupied, hair dyeing, followed by the obligatory hair washing, drying straightening etc.

Amazingly, in the afternoon, Kathleen agrees to go cycling. 

Normally after a "hair session" Kathleen would not agree to wear a cycle helmet for at least two days, it must be those uppers she is taking.

A ten mile cycle ride, plus of course, refreshments en-route.

Leaving Honfluer and on to Le Chateau-d'Olonne, North Vendee

Sunday 14th September 2014 - Tuesday 16th September 2014

Honfleur Aire

It is church day, so, Kathleen walks into town to do the church thing.

I forego my usual Sunday morning of wandering around a French town and finding a pleasant bar, in favour of packing up, ready to leave.

It has been excellent here, but, with only a 5amp electricity hookup, this means no hairdryer. The advantage to Kathleen is she has an hour more of each day to do other things, but withdrawal symptoms are becoming apparent.

To help get her through today, she was able to use the hair straighteners (only 50watts), this morning before heading off to church.

Just over 100 miles south, on virtually empty roads.

Yvre-l'Eveque, Camping Le Pont Romain, near Le Mans, (N48 1'9" E0 16'47")

An ASCI site, just off the Le Mans ring road, in a sleepy village.

Free wifi, swimming pool, usual facilities, 14.40Euro.

Another glorious day weather wise, it is 19:30 in the evening, and a very pleasant 25C

Le Chateau-d'Olonne, Les Fosses Rouges (N46 28'46" W1 44'28")

An ACSI site, a bit dated, but, well kept.

Well placed, an easy three mile cycle along the coast to town.

A bad start to the day, Kathleen lost a filling while brushing her teeth. Quick visit to the Dentist, and, we have to go back at 18:00 this evening (Tuesday).

To pass away the time a very pleasant cycle ride along the coast and into town, lunch, and back of course, so 7.5 miles of peddling on our folding bicycles. In the excitement of finding a Dentist, I forgot the camera, so, no photographs, another day hopefully.

On the way back, we are going so quickly, we overtake a French couple who are staying on the site. When the arrive, after us of course, the French lady has a try on Kathleen's folding bicycle to see if it will make her go faster.

We make the visit to the Dentist, just like the UK, we do not get in on time. It turns out, the tooth is broken, presumably a result of falling off her bicycle three weeks ago. The dentist decides a root filling is needed, but does not have time to complete the procedure. The initial work is done, back tomorrow 10:00 for the final (Kathleen hopes) filling.

Honfluer, contd

Saturday 13th September 2014

Yesterday, we walked to the top of an enormous hill, where the church Notre Dame de Grace is located. The young lady in the Tourist Information Office, had told Kathleen there was a Mass there on Saturday evening. Clearly, the young lady either has a sense of humour, and does not like the English, and/or, she is not a church goer. There is not a mass there on Saturday!.

In our usual way, we appear to have stumbled upon some form of "local event", as we walk into town, there are enormous crowds of people, roads closed, and, a chaotic French market.

All jolly good fun.

I acquire a new belt, Kathleen tries on numerous hats and pairs of shoes, and buys no less than two purses, to keep her enormous wealth in.

We have lunch by the harbour, Moules and Frites (what else?) for me, and Pizza for Kathleen, plus of course copious red wine, followed by an excellent Tarte Pomme de Normande. We round off with Cointreau for Kathleen and Calvados for me.

When we emerge from eating, we find the cause of all of the crowds is a Cycle Race. There appears to be hundreds of participants, all dressed in lycra, with very expensive looking bicycles. But, I assume it is a fun thing, since many of them do not look, how can I say this, very fit?

We have a rest to recover from lunch, then, go out on our bicycles, unknown to us, the cycling event is still going on, and, spectators cheer us as we peddle along on our folding bikes!

To Dover and on to Honfluer

Wednesday, 10th September 2014 - Friday 12th September 2014

The day begins badly, major traffic jam on the A19, we get only 30 miles from home, and then crawl for one hour through Teesside.

Licques, Pommiers des Trois Pays N50 46’ 47” E1 56’52”

A site we have been to before, easy to get to from Calais, but, not much else to recommend it. At 17.20Euro a night definitely not a bargain.

Honfluer. Aire. N49 25.150’ E0 14.586’.

We arrive Thursday morning at Honfluer, at a very large Aire, 10Euro per night, including Electric Hookup, if you can get it.

It is very full when we arrive, there must be well over 100 vans parked.

We are fortunate to arrive, just as a Belgian van is leaving, and we get a spot, but, no spare electricity hook-ups.

Nevertheless, a pleasant spot, as you can see, this is the view from our front window.

The advantage of the Aire being large is, there is a rapid turnover, on Friday morning, we get an electric hookup.

That, coupled with a stroll into town, which shows Honfluer to be a beautiful French seaside town, increases Kathleen's enthusiasm for the place.

Lots of quaint, narrow streets to explore, bars, cafes. It is warm and sunny, what more can anyone need?

Well, for Kathleen, there is one more thing, a church, with mass on Saturday evening, or Sunday!

A visit to the Tourist Office, and that problem is solved.

Clearly we will be here until Sunday, at least.

Let me see, we have Electricity, we have found a cash machine to get some Euros, Kathleen has found a church, that is the major items dealt with, it is time to find a bar and have a drink.

Plenty of choices around the old port. This has clearly once been a functioning

port/harbour, but, now, it is a mooring place for pleasure craft and fishing boats, surrounded by typically French buildings and literally dozens of places to eat and drink.

An ideal spot to while away an hour or two, until lunch time.

Kathleen is still on the energy pills (Prendeslone), so, after lunch, it is out with the bicycles and cycling along the coast.

Beautiful, if a little hilly!