Costa Verde, San Nicolo di Ricardi (ACSI2009-1564) N38.63856 E15.83406
We decide to head up the East Coast to stay near Mt Etna the still active volcano North of Catania. We find the site we have been recommended to go to, it is disappointingly scrappy after Scarabeo. But, we find the area with the best view of Etna and begin to select our spot. We are still manoeuvring when a German chap, comes along and complains that we are too close to him (even although other vans are closer). OK so we move a bit (well quite a bit) further away. But the seeds have been sown, the boss is incensed, and works herself into a fury. So we take the photographs of Etna (which was the only reason we came here), pack up and leave.
We now decide we will just go to Messina and get the ferry, we have had enough of Sicily. We arrive at Messina at around lunch time, and get caught up in a big traffic jam. As we edge along, with the inevitable scooters buzzing around and overtaking on all sides, we notice a sort of medallion man character who is riding a quad bike as if it is a motor bike (ie he is attempting to weave in and out of the almost stationary traffic). A few hundred yards further and we encounter the inevitable car “parked” and blocking the traffic. We signal and edge out to pass the parked car, this appears to incense medallion man, and for some reason the female driver of a small and battered Opel Corsa on my left. We clear the obstruction. Next thing is Medallion man has pulled along side us, and is shouting and gesturing for us to pull over. We ignore him and continue on. Then come some traffic lights which are on stop for us, medallion man, seizes his chance and pulls in front of us, preventing us from moving forward when the lights change. He shouts, we shout back, stalemate, the irate female arrives on the scene and also drives her car across in front of us. I know we have done nothing wrong, and have certainly not made contact with her. Kathleen becomes increasingly convinced we are being set up. By now we are holding up all of the traffic, and there is a constant blasting of horns. Fortunately two Motor Cycle Police arrive on the scene. Medallion man vanishes. The irate female, gestures to her car, claiming to the one of the Policemen that we have added a new scrape to the existing collection already on her car. By now, Kathleen is out of the van and (forcefully) explaining to the Policeman (in English of course) that we had definitely not made contact with her car. The police had no hesitation in just sending us on our way, so I assume they has seen it all before.
So we make our way to the ferry and on a calm and sunny afternoon, we return to main land Italy.
We leave the motorway (or should I say contraflow), when directed by our satnav, and wind our way along the coast towards our next site. As we approach, there is a warning sign advising no vans over 7m allowed, then we see why. The approach road is a 1 in 3 descent, built into the cliff face, with numerous hair pin bends. As we descend, Kathleen asks “what if we meet something coming the other way”, good question, because there is no way I can reverse up here!
We are offered a pitch right on the sea, but the approach too tight for our van, so we have to take another pitch with not such a good view.
The site is good, but we decide not to linger more than one night, since you are effectively cut off here, you can walk along the beach, but to do anything else you have to trek up the scary approach road.
Showing posts with label Sicily. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Sicily. Show all posts
Wednesday 27 May 2009
Saturday May 2nd 2009 - Sunday May 10th
Scarabeo Camping, Punta Braccetto (ACSI2009-1552) N36.81709 E14.46729
Sunday approaches, so decision time, do we stay and “do” Mass here, or do we move on. We elect to move on. Now we are heading more or less East along the South coast. We arrive at Scarabeo Camping, initially it all appears pretty much what we have come to expect, a bit scrappy. Reception is closed. I wander across to where a couple of guys are cleaning squid they have caught, and ask (using my very few words of Italian) what time Reception opens. He tells me we are at the wrong place, we need to be a few hundred metres down the road, where a refurbished Scarabeo Camping is open for business.
Amazing, this site is clean and orderly. The pathways are weed free, and there is a clean sandy beach adjoining the site. Facilities are excellent, there is event hot water in the washing up sinks. Fresh Bread is delivered to the site every morning, and some days an Ice Cream man calls, plus there is an excellent pizza shop just outside the site. But hold on, I am getting over excited.
The young lady in Reception gives us a conducted tour, ensuring we know where everything is and pointing out our choice of pitches as we go. Can this be Sicily?
There is a mix of nationalities, Swiss, Austrian, German, Dutch, and once we settle in we find a couple of fellow GB’s. As often happens, the small world syndrome kicks in and we find that our fellow GB’s even originate from the North East. There is Vera and Pete originally from Barnard Castle and Darlington respectively, but now living in Crete, and Colin and Kath originally from Newcastle but now living in Leicester.
Colin by the way does excellent “puddings” of doughnuts, strawberries and cream.
Kathleen is soon sitting in the sun, playing her guitar, soon joined by Colin and a German chap who can play some good Simon and Garfunckle stuff, but whose singing leaves a bit to be desired.
We settle in to stay here a while. We cycle the 4miles to San Croce (the nearest town of any size), and find the essentials (ie church, supermarket and cash machine). Apart from playing boules on the beach, and abortively trying to fly a kite, we explore the coast on our bikes and cycle along the coast to Marina di Ragusa, which is taking shape as what promises to be a smart resort, stopping off for beers or coffee’s as the mood takes us.
Sunday approaches, so decision time, do we stay and “do” Mass here, or do we move on. We elect to move on. Now we are heading more or less East along the South coast. We arrive at Scarabeo Camping, initially it all appears pretty much what we have come to expect, a bit scrappy. Reception is closed. I wander across to where a couple of guys are cleaning squid they have caught, and ask (using my very few words of Italian) what time Reception opens. He tells me we are at the wrong place, we need to be a few hundred metres down the road, where a refurbished Scarabeo Camping is open for business.
Amazing, this site is clean and orderly. The pathways are weed free, and there is a clean sandy beach adjoining the site. Facilities are excellent, there is event hot water in the washing up sinks. Fresh Bread is delivered to the site every morning, and some days an Ice Cream man calls, plus there is an excellent pizza shop just outside the site. But hold on, I am getting over excited.
The young lady in Reception gives us a conducted tour, ensuring we know where everything is and pointing out our choice of pitches as we go. Can this be Sicily?
There is a mix of nationalities, Swiss, Austrian, German, Dutch, and once we settle in we find a couple of fellow GB’s. As often happens, the small world syndrome kicks in and we find that our fellow GB’s even originate from the North East. There is Vera and Pete originally from Barnard Castle and Darlington respectively, but now living in Crete, and Colin and Kath originally from Newcastle but now living in Leicester.
Colin by the way does excellent “puddings” of doughnuts, strawberries and cream.
Kathleen is soon sitting in the sun, playing her guitar, soon joined by Colin and a German chap who can play some good Simon and Garfunckle stuff, but whose singing leaves a bit to be desired.
We settle in to stay here a while. We cycle the 4miles to San Croce (the nearest town of any size), and find the essentials (ie church, supermarket and cash machine). Apart from playing boules on the beach, and abortively trying to fly a kite, we explore the coast on our bikes and cycle along the coast to Marina di Ragusa, which is taking shape as what promises to be a smart resort, stopping off for beers or coffee’s as the mood takes us.
Wednesday April 29th 2009 - Friday May 1st 2009
Sporting Village and Camping, Mazara del Vallo (ACSI2009-1517) N37.63638 E12.61724
Mazara del Vallo is (according to the book), the first area the Arabs settled and conquered, and the last town they lost to the invading Normans. Sicily does have an amazing history of invasion and occupation, with Greeks, Romans, Arabs, and surprisingly Normans all taking their turn to capture and occupy it.
The site here is reasonably good, it has a nice clean swimming pool, which is open. There is free and plentiful hot water (but not in the washing up sinks), and washing machines that work. There are no fellow GB’s here, but mainly Germans, a few Dutch and a few Italians.
There is one novel feature however. The showers are joint use (ie men and women), they have no locks on the doors, and they a only as big as a “standard” shower cubicle, so consequently once you are in the shower, there is no where to hang your clothes where they will not get wet. The convention seems to be, strip off outside the shower, nip in the shower and hang your towel over the door so that it is obvious it is occupied. As I say, interesting trying to time your shower to coincide with a fit young woman, as opposed to a wrinkly one.
Enough of that, Mazara is home to Europe’s biggest Tuna fishing fleet, and there is a pleasant cycle ride along the sea front to the fishing port. The town generally however is in a deplorable state of disrepair.
Mazara del Vallo is (according to the book), the first area the Arabs settled and conquered, and the last town they lost to the invading Normans. Sicily does have an amazing history of invasion and occupation, with Greeks, Romans, Arabs, and surprisingly Normans all taking their turn to capture and occupy it.
The site here is reasonably good, it has a nice clean swimming pool, which is open. There is free and plentiful hot water (but not in the washing up sinks), and washing machines that work. There are no fellow GB’s here, but mainly Germans, a few Dutch and a few Italians.
There is one novel feature however. The showers are joint use (ie men and women), they have no locks on the doors, and they a only as big as a “standard” shower cubicle, so consequently once you are in the shower, there is no where to hang your clothes where they will not get wet. The convention seems to be, strip off outside the shower, nip in the shower and hang your towel over the door so that it is obvious it is occupied. As I say, interesting trying to time your shower to coincide with a fit young woman, as opposed to a wrinkly one.
Enough of that, Mazara is home to Europe’s biggest Tuna fishing fleet, and there is a pleasant cycle ride along the sea front to the fishing port. The town generally however is in a deplorable state of disrepair.
Tuesday April 28th 2009
La Pineta, San Vito Lo Capo (ACSI2009-1566) N38.17392 E12.74808
We wake to find the storm has passed, the sun is shining. So we decide to continue westwards along the north coast to San Vito Lo Capo. The ride passes uneventfully (it needs to after yesterday!), and we arrive at San Vito Lo Capo. It is a very pleasant place, with a wide, clean sandy beach and the usual collection of bars, cafes etc etc. There is even an ancient church, dedicated of course to San Vito. It has clearly been a mosque at some point in the past, since it not shaped like a church. But when we arrive at the campsite, it is a construction site, they are still building the swimming pool!. We initially assume the site is closed, since the Reception is all shut up, but one of the workmen hurries over and assures us it is open, and tells us we need to go to the bar, where someone will be available to check us in.
We are the only people there, so we have a wide choice of pitches!. In fairness, the facilities are good and clean. There is even hot water via a token (supplied free for ACSI clients). Now we do like quiet sites, but being the only guest is just a bit too quiet!
I have to say, that so far, I am not impressed with Sicily. The built up area we have seen are shabby, and the coast and countryside is litter strewn, we will have to hope that it improves. Driving is a case of just ignoring all of the “normal” rules. The classic is the Europe wide “No overtaking” sign of two cars side by side, one red and one black. Here it appears to mean form two lanes in the space of the single lane marking on the road. The roads are strewn with bits of bumper and trim which have been broken in some minor bump. A car without bodywork damage is a rarity indeed.
We wake to find the storm has passed, the sun is shining. So we decide to continue westwards along the north coast to San Vito Lo Capo. The ride passes uneventfully (it needs to after yesterday!), and we arrive at San Vito Lo Capo. It is a very pleasant place, with a wide, clean sandy beach and the usual collection of bars, cafes etc etc. There is even an ancient church, dedicated of course to San Vito. It has clearly been a mosque at some point in the past, since it not shaped like a church. But when we arrive at the campsite, it is a construction site, they are still building the swimming pool!. We initially assume the site is closed, since the Reception is all shut up, but one of the workmen hurries over and assures us it is open, and tells us we need to go to the bar, where someone will be available to check us in.
We are the only people there, so we have a wide choice of pitches!. In fairness, the facilities are good and clean. There is even hot water via a token (supplied free for ACSI clients). Now we do like quiet sites, but being the only guest is just a bit too quiet!
I have to say, that so far, I am not impressed with Sicily. The built up area we have seen are shabby, and the coast and countryside is litter strewn, we will have to hope that it improves. Driving is a case of just ignoring all of the “normal” rules. The classic is the Europe wide “No overtaking” sign of two cars side by side, one red and one black. Here it appears to mean form two lanes in the space of the single lane marking on the road. The roads are strewn with bits of bumper and trim which have been broken in some minor bump. A car without bodywork damage is a rarity indeed.
Monday April 27th 2009
Villaggio Marinello, Oliveri/Marinello (ACSI2009-1525) N38.13221 E15.05457
It occurs to me that I have not mentioned the weather for a few days, indeed in my ramblings, I think I have only mentioned the weather when it has been raining. Well, that is more or less it, if I have not mentioned it, it is because it is warm and sunny!, and so it is today.
We program the satnav for our next site in Sicily, and given what we have been told about the state of the roads south of here, and the fact that the motorway is toll free to the Sicily ferry, we elect to take the motorway. We soon find out why it is free, most of it has not yet been built, there are a few kilometres of sweeping viaducts, and long dual carriageway tunnels, but at least 80% of it is a contraflow!
We arrive at the end of the motorway, or should I say contraflow, and make our way to the ferry. It runs regularly every 20 minutes or so, so there is no pre-booking, just turn up buy a ticket (65Euro return, a bit steep), and go. We are first met by a small army of touts trying to sell us advice on which ticket to buy etc etc. We ignore the touts, and Kathleen buys the ticket at the official ticket office. Still a bit worrying, she pays with a credit card, but no pin number is requested and no signature, and no receipt is given, we are entering the land of the mafia, we hope all will be well.
As I said earlier, the day started warm and sunny, well it is still warm, but now it is blowing a gale, we can see across to Sicily, Kathleen decides that the ferries crossing too and fro look very small, and the waves very large!
We join the queue to board, and have our first taste of Sicilian driving. It is the standard ferry queuing system with several lanes and you are allocated a lane depending on your length, height etc. It is clear that everyone in the queue will get onboard, the queue is not long, but an idiot (Sicilian) driver (with mobile phone glued to his ear of course) in a black Mercedes, insists on trying to queue jump and push in between us and the bus we are following. I move over and push force him to move nearer the edge of the quay. Kathleen is not happy about this, after all he may be a godfather, so I relent and allow him.
Despite Kathleen’s misgivings about the small size of the ferry, the strength of the wind and the large size of the waves, we arrive safely in Messina. After more jockeying for position and queue jumping we make our way out of the dock area and into the madness of the Messina traffic.
We join the motorway, at the edge of town, and we are on our way. But not for long, at the next exit we are flagged down by a police patrol and told the motorway is closed to everything except cars due to the strength of the wind (at least we think that is what he said), not to worry (yet), that sat nav quickly recalculates our route excluding the motorway. But now we pass through a series of suburbs and small towns to the west of Messina. The traffic is very busy. On several occasions emergency vehicles (fire engines, ambulances etc) come screaming up behind us, with blue lights flashing and sirens blaring. We dutifully pull over and let them pass. Big mistake, once having pulled over, the other traffic will not let you back in to the flow. We (or I) quickly learn that here, what you do is ignore the sirens and just keep going.
Eventually we come to a section of road which is clearly not finished yet, our satnav clearly thinks it is finished and instructs us straight ahead into an obvious construction site. Avoiding that calamity, we follow a diversion sign, then of course there are no more signs. We come to a very narrow section (2.2m, according to the sign), the van is 2.2m wide. There is no where to turn around and reversing out is impossible, so with sweat on my brow, and Kathleen shouting “you will never get through there” (instead of watching the mirror on her side), I went for it. She was almost right, I got through, but with a black scuff mark down her side of the van.
We arrive at the site. It is not good, it does not appear to be fully open, and heavy rain has been added to the howling gale. The one plus is that it does have wifi. We duly buy an hours worth, but after about 15minutes it packs in, the signal probably cannot make it through the wall of wind blown rain!
The weather plus the incident of my attempting to drive through a 2.2m gap, makes for a suitably fraught evening, least said soonest mended. Welcome to Sicily.
It occurs to me that I have not mentioned the weather for a few days, indeed in my ramblings, I think I have only mentioned the weather when it has been raining. Well, that is more or less it, if I have not mentioned it, it is because it is warm and sunny!, and so it is today.
We program the satnav for our next site in Sicily, and given what we have been told about the state of the roads south of here, and the fact that the motorway is toll free to the Sicily ferry, we elect to take the motorway. We soon find out why it is free, most of it has not yet been built, there are a few kilometres of sweeping viaducts, and long dual carriageway tunnels, but at least 80% of it is a contraflow!
We arrive at the end of the motorway, or should I say contraflow, and make our way to the ferry. It runs regularly every 20 minutes or so, so there is no pre-booking, just turn up buy a ticket (65Euro return, a bit steep), and go. We are first met by a small army of touts trying to sell us advice on which ticket to buy etc etc. We ignore the touts, and Kathleen buys the ticket at the official ticket office. Still a bit worrying, she pays with a credit card, but no pin number is requested and no signature, and no receipt is given, we are entering the land of the mafia, we hope all will be well.
As I said earlier, the day started warm and sunny, well it is still warm, but now it is blowing a gale, we can see across to Sicily, Kathleen decides that the ferries crossing too and fro look very small, and the waves very large!
We join the queue to board, and have our first taste of Sicilian driving. It is the standard ferry queuing system with several lanes and you are allocated a lane depending on your length, height etc. It is clear that everyone in the queue will get onboard, the queue is not long, but an idiot (Sicilian) driver (with mobile phone glued to his ear of course) in a black Mercedes, insists on trying to queue jump and push in between us and the bus we are following. I move over and push force him to move nearer the edge of the quay. Kathleen is not happy about this, after all he may be a godfather, so I relent and allow him.
Despite Kathleen’s misgivings about the small size of the ferry, the strength of the wind and the large size of the waves, we arrive safely in Messina. After more jockeying for position and queue jumping we make our way out of the dock area and into the madness of the Messina traffic.
We join the motorway, at the edge of town, and we are on our way. But not for long, at the next exit we are flagged down by a police patrol and told the motorway is closed to everything except cars due to the strength of the wind (at least we think that is what he said), not to worry (yet), that sat nav quickly recalculates our route excluding the motorway. But now we pass through a series of suburbs and small towns to the west of Messina. The traffic is very busy. On several occasions emergency vehicles (fire engines, ambulances etc) come screaming up behind us, with blue lights flashing and sirens blaring. We dutifully pull over and let them pass. Big mistake, once having pulled over, the other traffic will not let you back in to the flow. We (or I) quickly learn that here, what you do is ignore the sirens and just keep going.
Eventually we come to a section of road which is clearly not finished yet, our satnav clearly thinks it is finished and instructs us straight ahead into an obvious construction site. Avoiding that calamity, we follow a diversion sign, then of course there are no more signs. We come to a very narrow section (2.2m, according to the sign), the van is 2.2m wide. There is no where to turn around and reversing out is impossible, so with sweat on my brow, and Kathleen shouting “you will never get through there” (instead of watching the mirror on her side), I went for it. She was almost right, I got through, but with a black scuff mark down her side of the van.
We arrive at the site. It is not good, it does not appear to be fully open, and heavy rain has been added to the howling gale. The one plus is that it does have wifi. We duly buy an hours worth, but after about 15minutes it packs in, the signal probably cannot make it through the wall of wind blown rain!
The weather plus the incident of my attempting to drive through a 2.2m gap, makes for a suitably fraught evening, least said soonest mended. Welcome to Sicily.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)