June 9th 2010 - 10th June 2010

Peschiera del Garda – Bella Italia – ACSI2010-1815 continued

Today we leave Lake Garda, and head north to Austria.

We decide to take a chance on the "ordinary" roads, rather than take the motorway, since generally speaking we find the motorway boring.

The scenery is spectactular as we head north into the Dolomites, this is our view when we stop for lunch en-route to the Brenner Pass.

(sorry if this photo is side ways, don't know why that is happening!, you will just have to turn your computer on its side).

Brenner Pass an anti climax, from the Italian side, as you can see, empty road, and nothing dramatic in terms of climbing or twisting roads,

but the scenery compensates for it I suppose, it is absolutely stunning. It may be more exciting going south from Austria into Italy, we will have to try it sometime.











We have lots of problems finding the campsite, including being directed (by the Tomtom) up a couple of very narrow and steep roads, one of which we had to reverse out of, since it was too narrow to turn around.

We discovered the problem. We usually input the map co-ordinates (if we have them) to the Tomtom, rather than the postcode. Well you may of may not know, map co-ordinates are commonly quoted in three different formats. Without going into all of the details, the Tomtom had been set (by somebody), to a different format to that in our ACSI campsite book. The result was it it was trying to take us to somewhere near where we wanted to go, but not actually where we wanted to go. How this happened is a mystery, it was OK last time we used it. I know I have not touched the Tomtom for days, and naturally Kathleen did not do it, so we must have a third party travelling with us.

Natters - Ferienparadies Natter See - ACSI2010-723

We find it in the end, relying on good old fashioned signposts, you know the way people did before satnavs!

The site is excellent, well worth the trouble we had finding it! The facilities are palatial and just look at the view from our window!

These Austrian's are so organised, everything is spotlessly clean, and works exacltly as you would expect.

The washing up sinks have so much stainless steel they could be in an operating theatre, and after watching the half hearted squirting of a hose as a cleaning exercise in southern Europe, watching the young Austrian girl doing the cleaning with a scrubbing brush is a revelation.

Thursday, we go to Innsbruk.

I am game to try cycling there (are you surprised?), since it is only about 4 miles, but Kathleen is not up for it, so we get the bus.

This involves a bus from the site, to the village of Natters, where we must get another bus to Innsbruk.

Needless to say it all goes smoothly and the bus times are set such that there is no waiting time on the way there, and only five minutes on the way back.

Unfortunately they do not accept UK pensioners bus passes, so we have to pay 9.20Euro return for the two of us.

Innsbruk is quite a beautiful place. Kathleen has been here before, in her youth, so some places she remembered from then (like the Golden Roof, shown above, on its side for some reason).

We enjoy strolling the streets so much, we stay for lunch, and have an "Austrian" lunch of Vienasnitchel, and Bratwurst (think that is how you spell it!), plus of course a couple of beers.

There are impressive buildings (right way up in real life, damned computers), even in the smallest alleys.

Plus, inevitably a triumphal arch, every city in Europe must have one, it would appear.

and of course, the usual collection of churches.

Innsbruk, is not as impressive as Salzberg, in my humble opinion, but it is still a pleasant way to spend a day.

May 31st 2010

Sorry, I have this post out of order, (second time I have done that!) I blame it on my age!

Ceriale – Camping Baciccia – ACSI2010-1735 – continued

Monday, we decide to explore further south along the coast, and cycle through Borghetto Santo Spirito, Loana, Pietre Ligure, 16 miles there and back.

This section of coast is a bit more "up market" than Ceriale and Albenga. There is a lot of money (EU money, from the signs), being spent upgrading it. They are building a promenade all along the coast, it will be beautiful, assuming the money does not run out before they finish it!

There is the inevitable church to explore, the inside is typically ornate Italian, and 

there is a very unusual "artwork", made of coloured sand. 

In addition to the resort, there is an "old town" at Pitre Ligure, with pretty Piazzas, and quaint narrow streets, much nicer than the resort in my humble opinion.

6th June 2010 – 8th June 2010

Peschiera del Garda – Bella Italia – ACSI2010-1815 continued

Sunday, we cycle into Peschiera, so that Kathleen can attend church. I buy an English newspaper and catch up the latest murders etc in the UK.


The original plan is lunch in Peschiera, but mass was 10:00, so by the time it finishes, we area little early for lunch, and being the weekend, Peschiera is very busy. We decide to re-arrange our plans and return to the van for coffee, followed by lying in the sun (much deserved after yesterdays cycling marathon), with the intention of cycling to Sirmione, in the evening, to eat.


In addition to being church day, it is hairdressing day, cycling to Sirmione after spending an hour (if you believe that you believe anything, it is 2 - 3 hours if it is a minute), washing, drying, straightening hair is a none starter. Instead we walk into Peschiera, in the evening, along the lake shore, and eat at a rather nice, floating, lakeside restaurant.

When we were at Ceriale, we had drinks in a restaurant which were very pleasant, and were, we understood, Campari.

Since then Kathleen has sampled several Campari’s (in the interests of research you understand), but none have been as per the drink in Ceriale. So after our meal we continue the research, here you can see Kathleen working hard at the task.

I am forced to have a beer whilst I wait for her.






We think we have found it. The waitress at the bar tells us it is fizzy white wine, soda water, Aperol and ice of course.

Now we need to buy the ingredients and Kathleen will have to continue experimenting until she has perfected the proportions.

It’s a hard life for some people, I do not know how we stand the pace.


Monday, we find the post office, so that we can post a card off to Houston, for Gary, Susana and Gabriel. After visiting an Italian Post Office, I will never complain about Royal Mail again, well not for a month or two anyway.

There are four counters “manned”, and only about five customers ahead of me, but it still takes almost ten minutes.

First you have to get a ticket, from a machine, to wait in the queue (supermarket deli counter style). There is a choice of three ticket types depending on what you want (one of which is to send a letter or parcel).

Each counter position deals with only one ticket type. So while three positions sit idle, one position deals with the six or so of us waiting, since we all want to send letters or parcels.

In the evening when it has cooled down a little, we cycle the 6.5miles to Sirmione.

Kathleen is able to continue the research into the orange coloured drink which is so popular here.

Sirmione is a beautiful little place, located on a peninsular which juts out into the lake.

I think visiting in the early evening turned out to be a wise decision, not only for the heat, but also because it is so much more peaceful without the crowds.

and someone obviously got their inspiration, for the colour scheme of their house, from the colour of Kathleen’s drink.















Tuesday, is a relaxing day, prior to our driving to Innsbruck, Austria tomorrow, although quite how you can have a relaxing day, when you aren’t actually doing anything anyway is a problem.


I manage to track down a shop selling bottles of Aperol (ingredient to the popular drink Spritz con Aperol), so Kathleen will be able to continue her studies.

June 3rd 2010 - June 5th 2010

Peschiera del Garda – Bella Italia – ACSI2010-1815 contd

Thursday, Kathleen is up for some exploring and exercise, so we cycle along the lake shore to Lazese, then on to Bardolino.



We go via the lake shore where ever possible, the track is mostly good, but a bit bumpy in places. No complaints however, and for once that is actually true!

The lakeshore is dotted with small villages like Lazese, it is difficult to pick one out, over the others, they are all beautifully kept, and very pretty.


We return along the road, which for most of the way has a cycle track, and despite the fact we do almost 23 miles in total, Kathleen sets a cracking pace right to the end.


Have an abortive attempt to get on the internet at the “wifi” bar on the site. But no joy, the place is packed with Germans watching football (a world cup game?), and the noise is deafening. Had hoped to use the skype to check Gary, Susana and overdue new arrival.

Overnight (03:00), we receive news we have been waiting anxiously for. Baby Gabriel has arrived (3rd June, Houston TX, time), at 8lb 3oz, so Gary and Susana are the proud parents of a baby boy, and we of course are Grandparents again, but the first “Reay” grandchild.












Friday, we set off to find Lidl, following the signposts in the town. I can only assume the signs have been put up by a rival supermarket company, because I reckon you have more chance of finding gold, than you have of finding Lidl from those signposts!


After peddling around fruitlessly for about five miles, we go to tourist information who give us a map, with the location of Lidl supposedly marked on it, (we also get a booklet with a couple of cycle routes, see later). Even with the aid of the map we have great difficulty, but we do eventually find it. As ever, once you know where it is, it is not far!


Next challenge is to find McDonald’s (also signposted), so we can use the wifi.


I follow the signs to McDonalds exactly, it says it is 2 minutes away. So to me that means, assuming you are driving a car, somewhere between 1 mile (at 30 mph), and 2 miles (at Italian speeds, ie 60 mph), but all I manage to find, by following the signs to McDonalds is a short cut to Lidl.


Our Dutch neighbours (who we guess to be older than us), return from a cycle trip and tell us they have cycled to a place called Borghetto. This they tell us is it is about 18km (10 miles) away. The die is cast, Kathleen has to better this.

Friday, we are up, picnic packed, and on our way by 9:30, armed with the cycle route booklet, we are aiming for Pozollo (past Borghetto, did you expect anything else?). We are soon out of Peschiera, and cycling along the banks of the river Mincio, which flows south out of Lake Garda.

We first pass the village of Monzambano, with its impressive Church on a hill on the opposite bank of the river.

The castle at Borghetto is visible in the distance, as we approach the village, still peddling strongly.

Borghetto is as they say a “tourist trap”, it is quaint and beautiful, we stop here for refreshments (coffee).

We are here, along with a coach party, and lots of people cycling, like ourselves.






After coffee, we cycle on to Pozzolo, which is 15 miles (24km) from Peschiera. Pozzolo is not very photogenic, so we settle for eating our picnic in the square, and finding a shop which sells greetings cards, where we can a “Congratulations on the birth of your new baby boy” card. Since we do not speak Italian and the shop assistant does not speak English, we have to rely on the fact that some cards are pink and some blue, to determine which apply to boys.


We still have not seen a picture of the new arrival (the picture above was received after writing this, I just changed the blog), although Phillippa tells us she has. For some reason, the picture will not text to us, so it will have to be Email. This means we must wait until we can get an internet connection.

We head back to Peschiera, at 20 miles, Kathleen tells me that her legs are not tired, here you can see her resting the bit that is tired (or suffering).

Back at Monzambano, I think the only photograph you have seen so far of Kathleen drinking water.






We get back to Peschiera at about 13:30, time for a drink. Kathleen has a Campari Spritz, not bad fuel consumption is it, 30 miles to the Campari.






Now we MUST find an internet connection, we need to see these photographs of Gabriel before the rest of the world has seen them!

Update, found that connection, picture downloaded and posted, plus Dana has managed to text message it too us.

June 1st 2010 - June 2nd 2010

Tuesday, we leave Ceriale, to begin heading north toward Lake Garda, then Austria, Germany and eventually home.



This means we are leaving Joan and Bryan, who are now heading further south into Italy, to visit Pisa, Florence, and after that who knows.

We share the driving, Kathleen takes the initial motorway section. In theory, this should be easy going, Italian motorways are good, unfortunately, they have Italians driving on them, so like most things Italian, they are a bit frantic. The section approaching Genova (Genoa to us), is particularly hectic, with lots of tunnels, which plunge you from bright sunlight into gloom, and all the while you have cars, vans and motor cycles weaving from lane to lane at 110kpm.

I get the second, mountainous, section which may have lots of wheel twirling with lots of hairpin bends and be a bit scary with plenty of sheer drops, but at least there are barriers at most of them and there is not much traffic!

The scenery is eye catching.












Cremona – Parco al Po – ACSI2010-1739

Cremona is a beautiful place. The area is fairly flat, and it appears everyone cycles, the town centre is full of people cycling, when we visit. We do a bit of site seeing and having drinks and ice cream while watching the world go by.


Unfortunately the campsite facilities are only adequate, so we decide one night is all we will do here. A shame because there are lots of cycle routes to explore. Perhaps another time, at a different site.


Wednesday we discover is a public holiday (at least in this part of Italy, if not Nationally), we think it has something to do with Corpus Christi, although in the UK, this is celebrated Sunday 6th June. They key thing is, it would appear, all of the shops are shut, and since I failed to stop at Lidl when we left Ceriale, we are short of fruit, vegetables and worst of all wine! In particular, we have no Rose, so Kathleen is not amused.


The journey to Lake Garda is short, only about 1.5hours, but every shopping centre we pass is closed.


Peschiera del Garda – Bella Italia – ACSI2010-1815


The approach to Lake Garda is very busy. When we arrive at the site, we are told we are lucky to get in, since we are getting the last available pitch. Apparently, not only is it an Italian holiday, but also the start of a holiday period in Germany, so there is a German invasion of Campervans, Caravans and Tents.


The site was recommended to us by Gina, who we met at Prairies de la Mer. It is not what we would have chosen without her recommendation, because it is so big. But in the event, it is excellent. Everything about it is organized and spotlessly clean.


We explore the lakeside cycling as far as Rivoltella, about 5 miles west along the southern shore of Lake Garda. We even find a small supermarket, open, on the way back, so wine supplies are replenished.


According to the signposts, there is a Lidl in Peschiera del Garda, but so far, I have not actually found it.

May 29th 2010 - May 30th 2010

Ceriale – Camping Baciccia – ACSI2010-1735 – continued



We (Kathleen and I) cycle to Alassio and back, (16 miles).


Going there is flat as far as Albenga, but then a slow but steady climb, with a final downhill stretch.

Alassio was presumably once a fishing village, but has since become a resort.

From memory it was a popular destination for Brits in the late 1950’s, but now mass tourism has passed it by.


We have a beer to fortify us for the climb back up the hill. We are asked if we want small of medium. We opt for medium, which turns out to be about pint size, but we get, crisps, salted nuts, tuna salad, palma ham, garlic sausage, and bread, as well. It costs 8Euro, but not bad for a mini meal and two pints!

The climb out of Alassio is quite steep, the photograph probably does not show just how steep.

Kathleen is not actually visible, she is just in front of the white car (on the right) and two motorcycles, pedaling valiantly. She makes it to the top, with not a word of complaint.

You have probably noticed that we have not had a hair care day for a while.

Well today is a double dose.

Not only is it hair washing and straightening, but both Joan and Kathleen require the hair colouring to be topped up.

So today it is the full works, colouring, washing, drying, straightening.

Please do not assume that they have any grey hairs of course, they are simply having a tint, to enhance their natural hair colour, becuase the bright sunlight has faded their hair. (No I don't believe that either).

Bryan, comes out of retirement, (he was at some point in his working life a ladies hairdresser), to attend to their needs, and soon has a hairdressing salon going under our awning. Much to the amusement of passers by.

Once hairdressing tasks are completed, evening meals eaten, and skype calls made, we settle down to an evening of Red Wine and Rose Wine.

I feel I should point out that the photographs of the hairdressing have been published at considerable personal risk. Joan in particular is very sensitive about this, and has threatened me with personal injury if I publish the blog containing these photographs. Her threats mean I dare not fall asleep in the sun, in case she performs surgery on me with a blunt knife.

Sunday, church as usual, this means a cycle ride into Ceriale.

While the girls are at church, Bryan and I, retire to a pavement cafe for coffee.

We are eventually joined by Kathleen and Joan, which of course means that the drinks switch to wine.

The cafe does not do meals, only nibbles, so we move on to a restaurant for lunch.

The restaurant is called "Il Restaurante Grotti", but it does not live up to it's name, because we have an excellent meal. Joan, Bryan and Kathleen all have pasta in one form or another whilst I have swordfish.

The Waiter (in the blue shirt), and the Chef (far right), see photographs below, do not speak any English, but we manage to get by in German, French and Italian (from Bryan's phrase book). It all works, because we end up with a meal each, copious amounts of alcohol, and a sweet, the end price being 80Euro including the tip.

In addition to an excellent meal, which takes up most of the afternoon, we have a good old laugh. The girls in particular become typical "Brits abroad" as the amount of alcohol consumed increases (wine at the cafe, Campari while studying the menu, Wine with the meal, followed by a couple of complimentary drinks, the name of which I have forgotten).

Just to complete the line up, the chap in the middle with his arms around the women, is the owner, whilst the chap in the red shirt was another diner, who just joined in the photograph.

We eventually wobble our way back to the campsite on our bikes, and Kathleen, in singing mood, entertains a little Italian girl, whose name is Julia.

May 28th 2010

Ceriale – Camping Baciccia – ACSI2010-1735 - continued

Friday starts overcast but warm, We cycle into Albenga, which is quite a large town. It is an Italian seaside resort, but not a package tour destination.

It has an extensive medieval centre, with numerous piazzas joined together by dozens of very narrow streets and alleys.

After the exploring we retire to a bar for a much needed drink (what a surprise).

We are served with beers which are 7.4% alcohol, quite strong stuff. We are also given salted nuts, olives and crisps as part of the deal. There is much discussion of why it is, that, in the UK, we cannot have 24hours drinking, without the streets being awash with vomit and drunks, but in the rest of Europe, they can drink all day and all night, with never a sight of a drunk.


In the afternoon, we have lunch and relax (quite how it is possible to relax, when doing nothing in the first place, is a good question).


While Bryan practices his Saxaphone, Joan does watercolour painting, and Kathleen does the crossword, I read yesterdays Daily Mail and ponder I gain from these campervan trips to various countries.


One obvious point is the exposure to other languages, and I feel I am beginning to become proficient in a second language. Unfortunately, the second language is not French, Spanish, Italian or German, no it is FemaleSpeak.


I have become fluent in a few phrases (of FemaleSpeak), which I will share with you, and which may be of particular interest to any male readers.


“Do you fancy a cup of tea” – translation – “Would you like to get up from your seat, where you are reading the newspaper, and put the kettle on, because I would like a cup of tea and do not want to interrupt my crossword puzzle”


“Goodness! It is four o’clock already” – translation – “it is time to begin preparing the evening meal, but I am doing my crossword, so would you care to stop whatever you are doing and prepare some vegetables, cut up the meat etc etc”


“I will make a cup of tea” – translation – “I will put the kettle on, then I will play my guitar and forget all about the tea, in the meantime, you can wash the dishes, dry them, put them away, finish making the tea, and bring me a cup”


“I feel thirsty” (usually spoken when lying on sun lounger) – translation – “will you put down your book, at this interesting point in the story, pour me a drink, preferably cool and alcoholic, and put it down in easy reach of my right hand, so that I do not need to move”.

After our evening meal (and putting the kettle on), Kathleen entertains anyone who within earshot.

May 25th 2010 - May 27th 2010

Port Grimaud – Les Prairies de La Mer – ACSI2010-1523 - continued

Tuesday, Bryan and Joan, and Bob and Gina are packing to leave tomorrow, heading their separate ways.



I visit a bar/restaurant (Le Jardin de la Mer), which Joan had noticed was offering free internet access. When I arrived (at about 15:00), the place was just closing for the afternoon, but for the price of a beer, I was given the password for the Wifi, and a seat on the veranda, where I was able to download photographs and prepare this as a draft for free, instead of at the extortionate prices offered by the campsite for wifi.


On my return from the bar, I find that, Joan, has been instructing Kathleen and Gina in the art of cake making using the Remoska. The area around our vans is pervaded with the smell of cakes baking, plenty of jealous people I think.


We have a Date and Walnut cake, made by Kathleen, under supervision from Joan, and a German Apple Cake made by Joan, with Kathleen and Gina under instruction. Recipes and instructions are carefully noted and Bob and I look forward to a future rich in beautifully made cakes.

The German Apple Cake is demolished as our joint sweet. The Date and Walnut cake is halved between the Cricks and ourselves. Joan generous as ever shares her half with Bob and Gina, so far Kathleen has not even shared our half with me!


Wednesday, and they all leave, so now we are surrounded by empty spaces, until at about midday, a Swiss Caravanning couple arrive, and an Italian couple in a Campervan shortly afterwards.

The first two slices of Date and Walnut cake are eaten at lunch time. It is superb. Kathleen is going to be unbearable now that she has added cake making to her many skills!

Dana is an accomplished cake maker, I can only assume that the skill must be a gene which has been dormant in Kathleen, but passed on to Dana, it has somehow now been activated in Kathleen (I hope permenantly).

I return to the bar/restaurant, and buy myself a large beer so that I can use the internet again (it is a hard life), continue with the blog and top up my mobile phone just in case I need to make calls to Houston, since so far, our pending new arrival has not arrived.



Wednesday, and they all leave, so now we are surrounded by empty spaces, until at about midday, a Swiss Caravanning couple arrive.

Thursday, we finish our packing and get on the road to Italy. As usual we stay off the motorway as much as possible, but on this route it is a mistake, once in Italy, the coast road through places such as San Remo is a torturous road with heavy traffic, and motor scooters taking suicidal risks to overtake. It may cost 20Euro to bypass it on the motorway, but it is worth it.

Ceriale – Camping Baciccia – ACSI2010-1735

It is very busy when we arrive. Fortunately Bryan and Joan have reserved us a pitch. The owner supervises me reversing on to it. It is so tight I have to remove the bikes from the bike rack, to gaion an extra metre of room. But evetually I am on the pitch, getting off again might be another story!

Monday 25th May 2009 - Tuesday 26th May 2009

Bungalow Camping Baciccia, Ceriale/Savona (ACSI2009-1469) N44.08164 E8.21777

After scanning the ASCI book, we decide to head to Ceriale, we stayed in this area last year with Joan and Bryan, on our way home from Croatia via Venice.

The route is simple, mostly motorway, and there is little cause for argument with the satnav, but on leaving the motorway, we find the toll booth is unmanned (fairly common in Italy). Since we are driving a Van with the steering wheel on the “wrong” side, handling the tolls is the passenger’s task. Problem one is I fail to get near enough to the machine so that the boss can reach the buttons for the machine from her seat. So she has to scramble out of the cab to get near enough to the machine, minus her glasses of course. The machines are quite neat, and “speak” the instructions as to which buttons to press and how much you need to pay. The instructions or course are in Italian, and on this particular machine the button to switch to English instructions clearly did not work, and it just kept on issuing instructions in Italian. This led to an argument between the Boss and the toll machine, picture if you will an irate Kathleen shouting at a toll machine which of course continued to repeat the same Italian phrase over and over.

Last year when we were in this area, we stayed at a site called Bella Vista, so we decided to try the other site in the area. In our view it is better than Bella Vista, one advantage is that it is not as far up the hill, so cycling back from the supermarket with a full pack is much less hard work!

Today we set off to cycle to Allasio, which according to our map reading is about 7 miles north of here along the coast. Enroute we had to pass through Albenga (about 4 miles away). This was a pleasantly surprising place. It is a “working” town, rather than a tourist destination, but is has an a very old section, with a labyrinth of narrow streets. It looks Arabic, but according to the information in the museum it is Byzantine (what ever that is). There is also a 4th century church dedicated to John the Baptist, with murals and a full immersion font all amazingly well preserved considering their age.

Wednesday May 20th 2009 - Sunday May 24th 2009

Molino a Fuoco, Vada/Livorno (ACSI2009-1593) N43.33206 E10.46021
Well, we must move on if we are going to have enough time on our way home to linger in France. So we continue north and arrive at Vada.

The site is good, although a bit on the large side for our taste.

Vada is a very pleasant town, and is only a short cycle ride away, mostly on a cycle track. One of our first tasks (as usual) is to cycle into town, locate the church, and determine mass times for Sunday. So mission accomplished, we find a suitable café and have a couple of beers as the world passes by.

As we drive in, we encounter another English couple (Jeremy and Hillary), relaxing in the sun. We spend a pleasant evening with them sampling their 1.5l bottle of red wine.

The coast here is an almost continuous beach of white sand stretching for several kilometres, back from the beach are cool pine woods, with numerous paths and cycle tracks. So we spend our days cycling, mostly along the coast as far south as Marina Bibona, but also inland to Ceccina.

We have Jeremy and Hillary round to our pitch for return match of red wine drinking and discover that Jeremy is a folk music fan. Out comes the guitar and an impromptu concert begins, Kathleen works through her repertoire of Peter, Paul and Mary, Everley Brothers etc and with Jeremy giving a very good rendition of “Wild Rover”. Our next door neighbours (a Dutch foursome, who spend most evenings playing cards) are the audience, and join in the fun with a few verses of “Tulips from Amsterdam”.

Friday May 15th 2009 - Tuesday May 19th 2009

La Spaggia, Passignano sul Trasimeno (ACSI2009-1532) N43.18397 E12.15089

So while we have enjoyed our visit to Pompei, it is incredibly hot there, and being a city centre location it is not exactly ideal for lying about. So off we go again, still heading north, this time for Lake Tresimeno which we have visited in the past in our MX5 days, during our holiday near Firenze (Florence to us English speakers).

The site here is excellent, right on the lake shore, and with a pleasant quiet ambiance.

The town (Passignano) is a short (flat) cycle ride away and it has the obligatory church. It is also has numerous cafes and bars, and is a pleasant place to wander and have the obligatory drink or icecream. In addition, there is a very old section, built high on the hill with beautiful medieval buildings.

We hope to cycle around the lake, but on talking to the site owner he advises us this is not a good idea as the road along the southern edge is very busy. However he gave us a map, showing a cycle track which allows us to cycle 25km in one direction and 15km in the other, which is about 2/3 of the way round.

So one day we cycle the 15km to San Feliciano, it is a beautiful ride through olive groves and vineyards. We stop off along the way, for a drink and icecreams of course. Another day we cycle in the opposite direction mostly through a nature reserve, with fields of wild poppies in full bloom, just like a Monet painting, to Castiglione del Lago. This is an ancient hill town, with a more or less intact castle. While we sit in a pavement café watching the world go by, an English foursome arrive at the table next to us, and Kathleen obliges by taking their photograph (using their camera), for them.

Saturday April 25th 2009 - Sunday April 26th 2009

International Camping Village, Praia a Mare (ACSI2009-1546) N39.88190 E15.78548

We have the usual decision to take at this time of week, is the present site suitable for a trip to church on Sunday either on foot or on a bicycle. For this site that is definitely a negative, you have to either negotiate the steep switch back road for about 2 kilometres as it climbs up to the town, or if you are feeling really fit you can walk up the (what seems like) several hundred steps to the town. How do they comply with disabled access legislation here?

So we decide to head south, so that we can be settled in place at somewhere suitable on Sunday. We key in the coordinates to the satnav, and tell it to avoid motorways. We want to do the scenic route. We do not know it yet, but this is a major mistake.

The trusty satnav takes us along the Amalfi coast as expected, towards Positano. As we had expected it is spectacular and very beautiful. Kathleen has cramp in her hands from gripping onto her seat as we climb and then drop down, all of the time negotiating hairpin after hairpin bend. We notice that the road is quite busy, and there are many cars and large busses parked in laybys as we approach Positano. We check the trusty diary and find it is a National holiday today their version of Independence day or some such. On the edge of Positano there is a Policeman who waves us down and tells us something in Italian, which we of course do not understand. We repeatedly tell him (in English) that we are going to Amalfi. He is not having it and he will not let us proceed. Instead he directs us onto a side road (we now think he intention was for us to turn around and retrace our steps, but this was not clear at the time).

The side road is narrow, but it is signposted Amalfi. So we soldier on up the hill, and up and up, the road gets even narrower. We begin to think we are making a big mistake (well, I am thinking it, Kathleen has been telling me forcefully what a big mistake it is for the past 4 or 5 kilometers). Eventually we come to a fork in the road, no signposts, silence from the satnav. Do we go right, or do we go left? Fortunately there are two Italian chaps passing the time of day by the road side (goodness knows were they have come from we appear to be in the middle of nowhere and part way up a very steep hill). Fortunately one of them speaks enough English to understand when we tell him we are trying to get to Amalfi. He tells us we need the left fork, but, and this is a big but, there is no point in proceeding since the road ahead has collapsed and there is no way we will able to pass in something 6metres long and 3metres high. We have to turn around.

Fortunately at this point, the road widens slightly. Kathleen hops out to watch the back (she says, I think she just did not want to in the cab as I drove forward towards the chasm). I swung the van around and drove towards the drop, at this point some other vehicle had clearly gone through the stone barrier, and all there was between me a a drop of several hundred feet was some red and white checked tape. The helpful Italian, beckoned me forward (it is OK for him, he is not in the cab!), still further and further, eventually I chicken out, and opt to reverse until I hear the cry of STOP from Kathleen, Forwards toward the drop again, and so we execute a three (or maybe five or six) point turn, Kathleen jumps back into the cab and with a cheery wave we retrace our steps, this time down the hill.

We arrive back at the “main” road along the coast, the policeman is still there and still refuses to let us pass. There is nothing for it but to return towards Naples and join the motorway. We have now spent about 2.5 hours driving up and down the Amalfi coast. The boss is not amused, I decide that silence the wisest option.

We rejoin the motorway. Initially there is a toll, but it is only 2Euro or so (more of this later). We now speed south making up for lost time (as I constantly reminded. All goes smoothly until we reach the point where we must leave the motorway and begin heading for the coast again. The road at this point is in good condition, but is twists its way across some high hills (most of Italy, I am beginning to realise is mountains) and overtaking is not really an option. We can see the road snaking ahead as it climbs and drops. There is a Campervan visible way ahead. We steadily gain on him and soon find it is an ancient arthritic Italian job. There is no chance of us overtaking him on the twists and climbs of this road. Steadily the queue of cars behind us builds up, although the odd suicidal Alpha driver goes for it and overtakes both of us with zero visibility ahead, most opt to stay alive. The crawling Italian shows no sign of pulling over to allow us to pass, so for the next 50kilometres of so, I pull over, and allow the cars behind to pass, so at least they have to overtake only one campervan. Eventually he turns off, oh joy. We do not know it at this point, but we will see the Italian van again soon.

We arrive at our selected campsite (La Mantinera 1547), it looks very posh, our hopes are raised. But, despite the opening date given in the ACSI book, it is closed. All is not lost, there is another site (1546) only a kilometre along the road, it is actually nearer to the town (and the church), so it may be better anyway we tell ourselves.

We drive along there, infront of us, waiting to check-in is the arthritic Italian van!, how did he get here ahead of us?, he obviously knew a shortcut not known to our satnav.

We settle in, there are some good points. The facilities are excellent, with lost of hot water (an unexpected luxury we have discovered in Italy, they must use cold showers as a form of birth control I think). It gets better, it is an easy cycle to the town and there is a church. Now the negative, there is a railway line next to the site with highspeed trains passing regularly, the good news is they stop about 10:00pm.

As usual almost everyone there is Dutch or German, but we soon notice another English van, George and Anne who are (or were) planning to go to Sicily. They have made it as far south as Gallipoli, but at that point have decided they are running out of time, and must start heading north again, hence we find them here.

From them we learn were the ferry leaves from, how much it will cost, that the motorway is free all the way to the ferry terminal (we find out why later), and they kindly loan us their “Sicily Book” with the understanding we will post it to them on our return.

We venture out to explore on our bikes. There is a fine promenade complete with cycle track which runs for several kilometres along the coast. But this is a strange place, clearly at some point there has been a decision to built a resort here, and indeed whole sections have been built, such as the promenade, but at the same time many developments (houses, hotels etc) are unfinished, and clearly work on them has been abandoned for several years.

As we cycle along, we spot a church, on the hill side. It would be of course. We cycle towards it. Eventually the climb becomes so steep, that the road gives way to steps. We park the bikes, and climb the steps. At the top is an amazing church come grotto built into the hillside. It is clearly in use, but it turns out only on special occasions and there is no service there tomorrow (Sunday). We return to our bikes and cycle into town, where we find the somewhat anonymous but functioning modern church. There is no notice board advertising mass times, but a helpful Italian lady converses with in sign language to convey that mass is at 11:00am the next day.

Thursday April 23rd 2009 - Friday April 24th 2009

Selano Spiaggia, Vico Equense (ACSI2009-1597) N40.66002 E14.42028

We have had our fill of the city for now, so today we set off heading south again, destination the Sorrento area and the Amalfi coast.

On our way south through France we did pass the time of day with several fellow Campervan/Caravan owners, who when we said we were headed for Sicily, muttered about the state of the roads. We were somewhat puzzled by this, since we had previously been as far South as Florence (by car), and Venice with the campervan. On these trips we had found the roads to be good, indeed the motorways were so well surfaced as to be billiard table like.

As we headed south of Rome we began to see what people were talking about. We did not know it as this stage, but this was only the beginning. First the simple things, road signs lack any distance information and road numbering information, plus the small detail that as we have found since entering Italy, they flout the EU standards on road signs, they have motorways signposted in green and all other roads in blue, unlike every other country in the EU, so arguments between the satnav and Kathleen increased dramatically. Then the potholes, even on major roads it was not uncommon to have to reduce speed to 30mph to avoid having everything shaken loose and flying about the van.

As we reach Naples, the roads get even worse, some sections are made of paving stone sized cobles (in the style the Romans made roads I think, from seeing Pompei later) and they are far from flat, so it is like driving across a ploughed field. Although it is only shortly after midday, the sky darkens and a massive thunderstorm erupts. As we join the “Ring road” to skirt Naples, we are met with a river of water running down the slip road off the major road (don’t they have drains here?). Once on the ring road, which is mostly reduced to single file traffic by road works, we are unfortunate enough to get behind a Tata pickup truck, driven by the only Italian who wants to travel at 20mph. Eventually I see a chance to overtake (it is a no overtaking zone, but by now I have entered the spirit of things and I am ignoring such details), as I begin to overtake, oncoming cars flash frantically, they are warning me there is a “Carbenari” up ahead, so I pull back in an crawl along at 20mph. The rain stops as quickly as it began, and we get a magnificent view of Vesuvius, cloud still clinging to its summit as we leave Naples and head for our site on the peninusular beside Salerno. As we approach the coast, we see the shape of things to come on this section of coast, the road is narrow, and twists along a ledge on a cliff, occasionally plunging into a tunnel, the views are spectacular, with villages perched precariously on the steep edge, and the blue of the sea 50 to 100 feet below, usually but not always with a crash barrier between us and it. Several times I am forcefully told to watch the road and not the view, as Kathleen’s anxiety level increases.

Eventually we come to yet another 90 degree bend and plunge into a tunnel which emerges about a kilometre later in Vico Equense. Following the sat nav instructions we edge around an impossibly tight bend and begin to descend a narrow twisting road to the actual shoreline. Although we have doubts that this tiny road can lead us anywhere except a dead end the trusty Tomtom brings us to the entrance of the campsite. We are met by the English speaking owner, who directs us to a pitch and gives us the low down on where everything is. He is very pleasant and helpful, but I think in an earlier life he must have been a school teacher, since he speaks to us throughout as if we were 5 year olds.

The site is small, there is so little flat ground here, it is hard to imagine why they use any of for a campsite!, but everything works and it clean. Most of the other Vans and Caravans are German, one brave soul is even towing a “Smart Car” behind him. But next to us is a Spanish registered van, the owners however are English, having moved to Spain some 30 years ago, they travel the rest of Europe in a Campervan when the fancy takes them, since they are both very sprightly 70 year olds, it is not doing them any harm.

The next day we decide to visit Sorrento, first we catch a bus in the village by the sea. This in itself is an experience, there appears to be no timetable, the chap in the bar next to the bus stop assures us the bus will come, just have another drink. Patience is not a virtue with one of us. The bus eventually arrives and takes us along the impossibly narrow and twisty road with much honking of the horn (but little slowing down) at each blind hairpin bend, and deposits us at the Railway station in Vico Equense. We buy our tickets and try to figure out which of the platforms we need. Some guesswork from the announcements takes us to platform two where (in time) a train for Sorrento arrives. We duly arrive, and spend a few hours exploring this attractive little place, before we retire to a pavement café to watch the world go by. Then we return to the railway station and make our way back to Vico Equense. We decide against waiting for the bus to take us down the hill (there is no bar to wait in), so we walk, not so bad going downhill, and the views are spectacular.