June 30th 2010

Schweich – Zum Fahrturm – ACSI2010-575 contd

Wednesday, we cycle to Trier, reputedly the oldest town in Germany. It is an easy 22 mile round trip, mostly along the banks of the River Moselle.

The first task on arrival, is a drink, we have just cycled 11 miles, no, not alcohol, we have a very pleasant Café Latte Machiata.

Trier is quite a large place, this is one of the old city gates, called “Porta Nigra”, which I assume translates (from the Latin) as “Black Gate”.

The Cathedral is very impressive too, clearly the German attention to quality and detail, is not a recent development, since the quality and detail of the stone carving etc is truly amazing.

For me personally, the cloisters where probably the most impressive, so beautifully kept and so peaceful.











Once we had our fill of culture and piety, we get down to more worldly matters, Trier is a large place and has an excellent shopping centre. I have managed to avoid shops, markets etc for most of this trip, I have to give in occasionally.

We first of all buy two tops at a shop called M&S. It looks very much like Marks and Spencer, but I am not sure if it actually is.

Then the hunt is on for a pair of white pants. Kathleen has been coveting a pair like those worn by our German neighbour at Bernkastel.

The obvious thing to have done of course was to have asked her where she bought them and then go there, or go on the intyernet and buy them. But that would not be nearly as much fun for a woman.

So we begin a relentless search of every clothes shop in Trier.

I must admit, it is not entirely without it’s lighter moments for me, as I sit outside of numerous changing rooms waiting for madam to emerge.

I get to observe that German women are every bit as obsessed by the “does my bum look big in this” question as English women, since every single one of them (if they are trying on pants, shorts, a skirt or a dress), as they emerge from the changing cubicle, to view their potential bargain in the mirror, turn first to look at their bottom!

It so happens there are a few very attractive bottoms as well.

Success at last, we find a shop which has not one, but three pairs which potentially suit the bill.

I am waiting outside of the changing cubicles with a fellow sufferer (a German man, his wife is in another cubicle), his enthusiastic thumbs up, to the view of Kathleen’s bottom in the second potential purchase, clinches it.

I am so pleased the ordeal of shopping is over, and we can now retire to a bar, I rashly offer to pay for the pants.

After a couple of delightful cold beers, we set of to cycle back to the campsite. Kathleen peddles with enthusiasm.

I suppose I should be pleased, the running costs are not high, a couple of tops and a pair of pants, 25 Euro to get 22 miles of enjoyment, that’s only roughly 1 Euro per mile!

June 25th 2010 - June 29th 2010

Tomtom has her voice back, the volume had “accidentally” been turned down by “someone”.

Difficult to get lost in any case, it is simply a case of following the Rhine, which is pretty difficult to miss.

Reference yesterdays blog, we still have not encountered a bridge across the Rhine!

Geisenheim – Geisenheim am Rhein – ASCI2010-471

We have an excellent spot here.

We have a view over the Rhine.

I can sit and watch the barges ploughing up and down, when I have finished my chores that is.

Kathleen has her own little sunbathing area.

After yesterdays 18 mile ride, Kathleen cannot me motivated to do much today. We cycle only as far as the village (1 mile), to check out church times (it is Friday, so Sunday is fast approaching).

We find the church, and think we have it organised, we leave with a leaflet giving service times, and choose ourselves a bar to have a cooling glass of Rose.

The bar is run by a Sikh couple, who, it turns out, speak English (they were probably born in Leeds). Kathleen decides to ask them to translate the German leaflet into English for her. Only she could think of asking a Sikh for information on a Catholic church, and not see the irony of it.

We have English neighbours, Dennis and Trixie, from Snodland in Kent. They are the classic sort of pair you meet, 74 and 73 years old respectively, and still roaming across Europe in a campervan, they are leaving for Luxembourg tomorrow.

Saturday, we visit Rudesheim, a more touristy place, but nice once you get away from the “front” street.

We find another Catholic Church, this one has mass on a Saturday evening, so that is this evening planned.

Kathleen is in “topping up tan” mode, so I pedal off along the Rhine by myself, towards Wiesbaden, and get my exercise in for the day.

Just as well Kathleen did not join me, the cycle track on most of this stretch is gravel, rather than the smooth tarmac she prefers.

Late in the afternoon, a large number of campervans and cars arrive, all with kayak type canoes on their roofs. The cars and campervans are driven by people at least as old as us. They unload all of the kayaks and put them on the green beside reception.

I ask one of them what is going on. After we have got over my little joke about them coming to watch their team be beaten tomorrow, he tells me there is some canoeing event going on tomorrow, cannot quite understand what it is all about, but a sort of “Race for Life” in canoes as far as I can tell.

In the evening, Kathleen goes to mass in Rudesheim, then we find a place to eat.

Having eaten, we retire to a wine bar in the market square. It is just a wooden kiosk, with tables and umbrella’s set around it. The wine is remarkably good, and cheap. The clientele overflow the available tables and onto the park benches in the square.

We meet a young English couple, he is in the Army (at Munchen Gladbach), and she is a Teacher.

They are cycling along the Rhine, with their 11 month old baby daughter in a little trailer towed behind one of their bicycles, and are staying in small hotels along the way.

One of the things they tell us, is that tomorrow the road along he Rhine from Rudesheim to Koblenz will be closed to all motor traffic, and will be open only to Bicycles, Roller Blades and Pedestrians.

After the English couple have left to put the baby to bed, we are joined, or perhaps invaded is a better word by a whole group of Germans.

We think they are a family group, celebrating some occasion. They soon have three or four tables joined together, and all of the available seats, the proprietor even produces some folding chairs from somewhere.

It is just like a McCafffery family bus trip, taking over the whole place.

We eventually cycle back to the van, Kathleen dangerously drunk in charge of a bicycle.

Sunday, another beautiful sunny day. We decide to cycle into Rudesheim to see if the road is indeed closed, as we had been told it was going to be.

Sure enough, we find the roads, running along the river, on both sides of the Rhine, for a distance of 64km (40 miles) are closed to everything except bicycles, roller blades and walkers.

This we understand is an annual event, and judging from the huge number of people present, it is a very successful one.

Caught up in the excitement of it, we join the crowd and set off in the direction of Koblenz.

We do just over 7 miles (11km), before turning around and heading back for lunch, making 15 miles in total.

Kathleen is so convinced she could make it to Koblenz, if we had set off earlier in the day, the gauntlet has been thrown down, the plan is to return next year, on the same day and do the whole distance.

There are hundreds of people taking part, all shapes and sizes, and all ages from children to pensioners (like us I suppose!).






Every few kilometres along the way, they have set up seats and umbrella for shade, with stalls selling beer, bratwurst etc etc.






Everyone, young and old are having a wonderful time,

At one stage we pass the canoeists I mentioned earlier.

They have set off from the campsite where we are staying, just past Rudesheim, and are paddling their way down the Rhine to Koblenz.

Unfortunately for them, the river traffic has not stopped, and they have to compete with barges as you can see.

I did ponder just glossing over this part.

In the early evening I watched the England v Germany game in the World Cup. How humiliating to be beaten 4-1, while in a bar full of Germans who were enjoying their victory to the full.

Monday, we head west, towards the Moselle.

Bernkastel-Kues – Stelplatz

We find the Stelplatz easily, with the aid of the Tomtom.

It is associated with a Winery, and, is located at the end of a long tarmac track on the banks of the River Moselle, overlooking vineyards all around.

The chap who runs the Stelplatz is a card, he is very elderly (80 we are told), and he insisted on telling Kathleen, how exactly to open the box for the electric hook up.

He also emphasised, by telling her three times, that the box and the handle were plastic.

I can only assume they have met before and he is fully aware of her legendary patience when confronted with anything which does not work the way she wants it to first try.

There are spaces for about 45 vans, (all with electric hook up), but only seven occupied, including ourselves.

The nearest van is occupied by a very pleasant German couple, who even volunteer to bring shopping from the supermarket for us, on their motor scooter.

We get ourselves parked, it is a beautiful spot, overlooking the river, and just beyond the end of the stelplatz there is a cycle track into Bernkastle-Kues (about 2 miles along the river).

Naturally we cycle to Bernkastel-Kues and spend our time browsing around the quaint small town. It is so hot we are forced to have drinks and ice cream.

The place has several fountains and is full of half timbered buildings, still in amazing condition, and in everyday use as houses, shops and businesses

At one point we encounter a chap playing a violin in the street, the music is very good, so we decide to sit on the terrace bar of the hotel across the street and have a glass of wine, while we listen to the music.

Kathleen is feeling particularly generous and offers to pay for the drinks.

We must have chosen the most expensive hotel in town, two glasses of wine cost 9 Euro!, this plus the 1 Euro I had put in the violinists hat made it 10 Euro for two glasses of wine.

We decided the violinist must be a plant, put there by the hotel, to tempt people to sit at their very expensive terrace bar.

I continue my quest to try various items of German food, and Kathleen manages (in her best German) to buy various items from a small shop.

We emerge with Kartoffel Salad, Wurst Salad and a thing which looks like a cold beef burger, but is (we are told) called a Frikadel and is made of pork.

It turns out, the wurst salad is like poloney in mayonaise, the Frikadel is very nice, the Kartoffel salad is quite nice.

In the evening, as I wash the dishes, Kathleen begins playing her guitar, within a short time, she has attracted a German chap (Helmut), who also has a guitar, and says he is very much a beginner at playing it.

Things soon follow a familiar pattern, and Kathleen and Helmut are soon playing and singing together, Inger (Helmut’s wife) and myself, are allowed to join them (with wine of course) when we have finished our chores.

Despite our initial protests that we do not want to drink too much, nor stay out too late, we are there until midnight, with mosquito cream supplied by Inger, and three bottles of wine are consumed.

Tuesday, we say our goodbyes, exchange Email addresses etc, and head further South along the Moselle, toward Trier, which is likely to be our last stop before Luxembourg.

Schweich – Zum Fahrturm – ACSI2010-575

Goodness knows how you pronounce that!

The site is by the river, and we have a riverside pitch, so interesting views, but not the best site we have had in Germany.

The weather continues to be absolutely roasting hot. At home I would expect such weather to end in a thunderstorm, and I have the same expectation here, but when will it break?

I have another puncture!, this is my third puncture this trip, but I suppose, if you accept that I have cycled roughly 400 miles in the past three months, then three punctures is not really a bad average.

We venture out to check out the riverside cycle route, we plan to cycle to Trier tomorrow, but for today, we are content to cycle to Longuich and Roil, a total of about 10 miles.

In the course of our exploring we find a good stelplazt (Weinkultturgut Longen-Schloder p389 of Stelplatz book) which looks a better bet than the site we are on, and it is cheaper, so we may move there tomorrow or the next day.

June 23rd 2010 - June 24th 2010

Today we, head for Koblenz and the Rhine.

It is motorway almost all of the way.

It is so German, the traffic is so disciplined, with only the occasional sonic boom from a Mercedes, BMW or Porsche, breaking the sound barrier in the outside lane. The speeds are impressive, the odd stretchs of road works we encounter have speed limits, 120kph (75mph), and the contra flows are really slowed down at 110kph (70mph), the rest is unrestricted.

The Tomtom has lost its voice.

This means I have to keep looking at the screen to watch for instructions. Not too bad on the motorway, when instructions happen only every twenty or thirty miles, but a bit difficult in town, when instructions sometimes come thick and fast, plus you have to watch traffic, lights, pedestrians and cyclists.

Kathleen resorts to reading out the instructions in the style of a Tomtom "voice".

I suspect her of deliberately turning off the voice, so there is only one female giving orders in the cab. She denies this of course.

Lahnstein - Wolfsmuhle - ASCI2010-512

The site is full, but the helpful owner squeezes ourselves, a dutch campervan and five dutch caravans onto a bit of hardstanding beside reception!

He cobles together electric hookup for us all, and we even have free wifi at the van.

The site is by the River Lahn, (which I hoped this shot would show, but it is hidden by the trees on the left!) it is very pleasant.

Weather is sunny and very hot!

We cycle the 2 miles or so into town to check out the cycle route to Koblenz for tomorrow.

I note a small track running toward the river, which I assume is a short cut, or at least a traffic free route.

Kathleen will not take the risk on it being a dead end.

To be fair, she has been caught out by my "short cuts" before.

We find a way into town, and determine that it is 9km (just over 5 miles) along the river to Koblenz, so that is our outing for tomorrow.

On our return from town, undeterred by Kathleen's lack of faith in my navigation skills, I set off by myself to determine if my "short cut" is valid.

Sure enough, it is fine, there is about 20 metres of gravel track, then a footbridge over the river.

There is a marina on the other side, a pleasant bar and pleasure cruisers and house boats moored by the river bank.

A smooth, level tarmac cycle track runs all of the way to Lahnstein, and then on to Koblenz in one direction, and in the other direction to Bad Ems.

I know Kathleen will not take my word for it, so, I collect photographic evidence for her, as I go, that it is in fact a traffic free route, and that it is a "proper" cycle track.





There is world cup fever here.

They have flags everywhere. Germany are playing this evening and dozens of them are in the bar watching the game. Like England (who I learn have qualified for the next round), they have not covered themselves in glory so far. Everyone is hoping for better things.

Who says Germans do not have a sense of humour?

About half way through the second half, when they are ahead 1-0, and the crowd in the bar are willing them to seal it with another goal or two, one of the watchers (an elderly lady, dressed in Germany colours) decides she cannot wait any longer and must go to the toilet.

Everyone of course knows where she is going as she walks from the bar.

They wait until she is in the toilet, and then, even although there is no exciting action on the pitch, they raise an enormous shout, as if they have scored, she of course comes rushing out from the toilet.

Another cheer goes up.

Thursday, we set off along the route I checked out yesterday. It takes us along the River Lahn, which soon flows into the Rhine, so we end up cycling along the right bank of the Rhine, as we head for Koblenz. This bit of information is relevant later!

We reach Koblenz no problem, it is dedicated cycle route just about all of the way.

Koblenz is a major city, with an extensive  pedestrianised centre, with lots of shops, but I am able to steer us away from that pretty quickly, thank goodness. 

There are some beautiful park like areas by the river at Koblenz, but they are busy renovating them, so it is a bit like a building site, so I should really say, it will be beautiful when it is finished.

We cycle further along the left bank of the Rhine (ie the opposite bank to which we cycled along to get here, this is relevant), in the direction of Lahnstein, and stop for refreshments, then cycle a little further and stop for our picnic lunch.

We are able to sit in the sun, eat our lunch, and watch the barges and pleasure craft sailing past on the Rhine.

I have always been fascinated by the barges which ply rivers such as the Rhine.

I am told that some of them are owned and operated by a family, who live on board, and in fact a couple of barges do pass us loaded with cargo, and play pens set up on the rear deck for the children.

Lunch finished, I suggest to Kathleen, "why don't we just continue on this side of the river back to Lahnstein, rather than turn around, go back to Koblenz and retrace our route".

This is agreed.

The cycle track passes through smart residential areas, then into open countryside alongside the river.

The dot in the distance is Kathleen pedalling for England.

We scoot along, and in what seems like no time we can see landmarks on the other side of the river, which we recognise as being near Lahnstein.

The penny drops.

We cycled first along the River Lahn, which joined the Rhine. We are more or less back where we started, but on the other side of the River Rhine, which at this point is about a quarter of a mile wide, or so it looks!

Possibly the most sensible suggestion at this point was to cycle back to Koblenz, cross the river and cycle down the other side.

But I never like turning around and going back.

So I suggest cycling on along the river. My logic being "there must be a bridge soon".

When we eventually get back to the campsite, and we are able to consult a map (no of course we did not have a map with us, how can you get lost just following a river?), I find that the next bridge is at Weisbaden, about 60 miles further on!

We have noticed some, what appear to be, ferry landings.

Kathleen reasons there may be a ferry, and that she is definately NOT just cycling on blindly hoping for a bridge to appear.

We choose a ferry landing which looks the most significant, from among the three of four possibles, and sit oursleves on a park bench.

The ferry landing has a sign suggesting there is a ferry due in ten minutes.

Another cyclist stops, reads the notices (in German of course), and cycles on.

We begin to have an uneasy feeling about this.

Then Kathleen spots what she thinks is a small ferry leaving the opposite bank and heading across to our side of the river. It looks like success.

We watch as it slowly makes its way across the river, but then realise it is not heading for "our" ferry landing, but to another one further up the River, where we can see the lone cyclist who paused at "our" ferry landing is waiting.

We quickly jump on our bikes and peddle like fury to the next landing stage, arriving just as the other two passengers are boarding the ferry, we quickly get ourselves and our bikes onboard.

The ferry appears to be operated by just one man.

He begins by asking all four of us where we want to go.

It appears we have a choice.

All four of us reply "Lahnstein".

Quite what would have happened if it had not been a unanimous verdict I am not sure.

He does not seem overjoyed to be going straight back to Lahnstein, perhaps he had been hoping for a more exciting destination from us.

He casts off, once we are underway, he leaves what appears to be the wheel house and begins talking on his mobile phone, this causes Kathleen great consternation, she wants to know who is steering the boat!

But she soon settles down to be as happy as Kathleen can be, in a small boat, on a big river, happy in the knowledge she does not have to peddle to the mythical "next bridge".

Fortunately, the ferry landing at the Lahnstein side, is at a bar, so we disembark, and settle at a table for a beer.

    

June 22nd, 2010

Weikershiem/Laudenbach – Schwabenmuhle – ASCI-2010-611, contd

Tuesday, and the weather seems to be on the mend. The forecast is for steadily improving temperatures as the week progresses, and no rain.

We decide to delay leaving for the Rhine area and stay here for another day, to carry out one of our possible plans from yesterday and cycle to Creglingen.

We have the benifit of a map now, so we can assess the distance and how hilly it may be.

We have already cycled about half of the route, the day we cycled to Rottingen.

As we pass Rottingen today, we note there are only two campervans at the stellplatz there, perhaps the moral of the story is that stellplatz are busier at weekends?

We set off, bright and early for us, at about 10:15, in the event, it is an easy 13.5 miles, almost all of it on dedicated traffic free cycle track.

We arrive before the heat of the day has built up at shortly before lunch time.

Time for a beer.

There are only two other people in the bar/cafe when we settle ourselves down, but by the time we have finished our beer (small beers, I may add), the place is full, and most people have ordered what look like very nice meals.

We resist, and set off for some gentle sightseeing.

It is what we have come to expect of the region, lots of quaint half timbered buildings, with beautifully preserved and kept surroundings.

Our resolve does not last for long, since the 13 miles of pedalling have build up a healthy appetite, for once, even Kathleen is wanting to eat!.

We return to the bar/cafe, and order lunch. Kathleen has a pork snitzl, and I have bratwurst with chips (I am determined to sample as many types of German sausages as possible), plus we have two large beers this time.

Although we had not been expecting it, Kathleen also gets a small salad, to start, with her meal. It has salad dressing on, which she will not eat, so I "have" to eat it. It includes what I suppose must be saurkraut. If it was, it tastes pretty good, anyway, I polished it off.

Eventually, it is time to leave.

We find it even easier comming back. We accomplish the 27 mile round trip with ease.  I am not sure if it is because it seemed to be predominantly gently downhill (on the return), or because of the effect of the (almost) litre of strong beer we have consumed. 

Another fun day. This has been an excellent choice of site, since not only are the facilities excellent, but it is so well located for exploring, being located right on the long distance "Hohenloher Residenzenweg", a cycle track to you and me. If you are passing this way and do not want to use a site, the stellplatz at Rottingen seems like an excellent choice, again it is right on the cycle route, and is only a few minutes walk into Rottingen.

June 20th 2010 - 21st June 2010

Weikershiem/Laudenbach – Schwabenmuhle – ASCI-2010-611, contd

Sunday, the sun is shining when we get up.

Mass is 9:00, so Kathleen has to be up and ready unusually early (for her), the church is only five minutes walk away.

We (I), blunder with the buying of bread, the bread shop in the village does not open on Sundays and we have not ordered bread from Reception, so I have to cycle to Weikersheim (5 miles there and back), to buy bread, whilst Kathleen is at church.

After mass, a cycle ride to Niederstetten, only 5 miles away, but very up and down, a very hard 10 miles round trip!

It is Fathers day today, I get the "Happy Fathers Day" messages from Gary, Dana, Claire, Phillippa and Tanya.

Kathleen, goes out of her way to look after me and fuss over me, as you can see.








We decide that tomorrow, we will have another little adventure.

In this region, you are allowed to take bicycles on the train, free of charge.

A couple of days ago, I was talking to a fellow brit (well a Scot), caravanner, who was staying on the site, and he told me they had used the train (not with bicycles), to travel to Wurzburg, and, that the station (Bahnhof) is only a short distance away.

We walk to the railway station, it turns out to be only about 500metres away, check out the time and frequency of the trains, and also how to work the ticket machine.

I should explain, the train does not routinely stop at Laudenbach, if you want the train to stop for you, you have to be on the platform and signal it to stop!

Similarly, if you are on the train, and you want it to stop at Laudenbach, so you can get off, you have to go to the front of the train and tell the driver.

Monday morning, we set off at 9:45, on our bicycles, to catch the 10:00 train to Bad Mergentheim.

We arrive, just in time to see our Dutch neighbours boarding the train going in the opposite direction, complete with bicycles.

We negotiate the complexities of the ticket machine, and manage to buy ourselves two single tickets to Bad Mergentheim, at 2.20Euro each.

We are just completing the transaction when a helpful German chap asks us if we need any help. Although we do not realise it, he addresses us in Dutch, but when he realises we are English he immediately switches to English.

His is interesting and informative to talk to, and chats to us as we wait for the train, which arrives at about 10:10. We are not sure if this is because the legendary German efficiency has slipped, or if my reading of the timetable was faulty.

Our new German friend, it turns out, was born here in Laudenbach, 70 years ago, and spent his childhood here, but has since lived in the UK, USA and Holland, where he now lives with his American wife.

He explains to us, that when the railways were built, in this part of Germany, (just over a hundred years ago), the region was divided into several little kingdoms. Each had its own railway, which served the towns within the kingdom, but had poor or none existent connections with neighbouring kingdoms. Hence whilst it is simple to travel between (now obscure) places, which were formally in the same kingdom, it is sometimes torturous to travel to significant towns which were formally in a different kingdom.

Our conversation then ranges over the trials of the Euro, and how the German people are happy with the economic stability and low inflation it has brought, but they are unhappy with having to bail out Greece, and possibly other Southern European countries, since they feel the Southern Europeans (and in particular the Greeks), have deliberately misled the rest of Europe as to their parlous economic condition.

He is very easy to talk to, and despite the usual Basil Fawlty advice, when talking to Germans, of "don't mention the war", I even risk a question (which has puzzled me), ie how did all of these villages and towns with their building from the middle ages, escape damage in the war. His answer, seems sensible, since there is virtually no industry in the area, except wine making, the area escaped bombing by ourselves and the Americans (it is even too far from major industrial centres for American legendary target (in)accuracy to have done any damage).

He really has, had an interesting life, after university, he trained to be an English teacher in Germany. This entailed spending a minimum of one year living in the UK. He actually opted to spend two years there, living and working for one year in Glasgow, and a second year in Southampton. He was even able (after all these years) to detect from our accent that we came from the North of England, and to do a passable imitation of a Scots person talking. After his teaching time, he became an Academic and worked at Universities in the USA and Holland.

Although, he is now 70 and retired, he now helps "old" people, on a volantary basis. 

Eventually our train arrives. There is a designated place in each carriage to put bicycles, naturally, this is German organisation. Since there are three steps up from the platform to the cycle bay, this is no easy task, and I have to load both bicycles, but the driver is patient and waits for us.

The train stops at several small villages along the way, and more people with bicycles get on. Also what seems like a class full of school children aged about 10/11, it would appear supervised by only one adult. They were remarkably well behaved, but all wished to sit in the "front" carriage where the driver was.

We arrive at Bad Mergentheim, and unload the bicycles. Our German friend is getting off here too, and we say our goodbyes and head off to explore.

In truth, whilst it is a very pleasant place, it is perhaps not quite as nice as some of the other villages and towns we have visited. There is a very poignant memorial to local Jews who were killed during the Hitler era. So sad to see a list of several hundred names, all with differing dates of birth, but the same year of death.

On a brighter note, it has been an interesting and informative train journey to get here, now we must find our way back!

As we cycle back toward Weikersheim, we pass the Bad Mergentheim Stellplatz, which is shown in the Stellplatz book.

I pause to take a photograph, as you can see.

It is a reasonable spot, as stellplatz go, and has Electric hookup, waste disposal facilities etc.

I catch up with Kathleen, who, typically, has not waited for me, and we cycle on, mostly along the River Tauber. It is easy going, and to be honest, I think it is as quick to cycle as to take the train!

We pass through the several villages where the train had stopped on our way here, ie Igersheim, Markelsheim, Elpersheim (seen here), and then Weikersheim and Laudenbach, to make 12.5 miles in total.  

We detour at Weikersheim to buy fruit and vegetables, plus, I buy some German sausage to have for my lunch. Kathleen, predictably, sticks to Edam.

The German sausage evokes memories of childhood.

As a child, did you ever have "Polony" (if you remember it was a sort of large sausage with bright red skin, which you could not eat).

The German sausage tastes a bit like that, but slightly more pleasant. Definately more pleasant that the Weiswurst of a previous lunch time!.

It is decided that since we have a heap of washing, we need to use the washing machine. Having deciphered a German railway ticket machine, operating a washing machine with all of the controls in German is only a minor challenge for Kathleen.

The washing emerges clean, and the same size as it went in.

What more can you ask?

Here you have what is probably, that should be definately, the only photograph this trip, of Kathleen preparing vegetables for our evening meal.

Just to re-inforce the point, you can even see some of the washing hanging out to dry, she has been a busy little bee.

June 18th 2010 – June 19th 2010

Dinkelsbuhl – Stellplatz Contd

Overnight, it rains none stop. It stops briefly at about 9:30 on Friday morning, which allows me to cycle to the campsite to pay our 10Euro, and get our token to get through the barrier. By the time we leave, it has started to rain again.

I had hoped to take a photograph of the Stellplatz, but it was raining too hard!

Our destination is a site at Geslau (ASCI2010-475), which we think will be in cycling distance of Rothenburg.

When we arrive, it is pouring with rain, which never helps with first impressions of a place, plus it is very remote (it is not actually in Geslau, but at a hamlet called Lauterbach) and we have neglected to buy bread (or rice which we need), note the use of “we”, you know the score, no names, no pack drill.

After some discussion, we drive into town (Rothenburg) to buy supplies, the good news is, the supplies includes an Apple Strudel.

The rain continues, if anything it is worse. We decide, if we return to Geslau/Lauterbach, all we will be able to do is sit in the van and watch the rain. We study the Stellplatz map, and the ASCI map, and decide to head for Weikershiem/Laudenbach (ASCI-611).

This does mean we are missing out Rothenburg, but given that we have now done three medieval towns, we cannot summon much enthusiasm to walk around another one in the pouring rain.

Getting out of Rothenburg turns out to be something of a nightmare.

The Tomtom directs us down a road which is closed. Not sure why it is closed, all the signs are (understandably) in German. Our only options are ahead, which has a height limit too low for us, or a left turn into a car park. Fortunately the car pack has room to allow us to turn around.

We try following the signposts, for a diversion, but we run out of signs and end up at the bottom of a very steep hill, in a very small road, in a village, at yet another road closed sign. We are accompanied by a large German lorry, towing an equally large trailer. I manage to keep out of his way, while he attempts to turn around, which he does manage to do, but not before flattening a road sign, with the trailer. He does not seem too worried about this, as he smiles to us, and shrugs his shoulders French style.

At a junction at the top of the hill again, the German lorry stops, and waits until another passing lorry gives him directions, we opt to follow him, given that he is bigger than us, and if he can get past, so can we, until eventually the Tomtom begins giving us sensible directions again.

Weikershiem/Laudenbach – Schwabenmuhle – ASCI-2010-611

I hesitate to say this, but the rain has stopped. For the first time in I think four days, the sun is shining and we can actually see some blue sky!

This site is also in the Stellplatz book, and there is an area just outside of the site, which looks like you could park there. But inside the site everything is brand new, most of it looks as if it has never been used before, it is excellent. The owner and his daughter, do not really speak English, but they try hard, and with a bit of English, a bit of German and a bit of arm waving, we manage to communicate.

We cannot help but notice, the Germans have World Cup fever. People have flags in their windows, flags on their cars etc etc. I know they have thrashed Australia 4-0, and today when we arrive at this site, the owner is too engrossed in the football on TV, to check us in, Kathleen tells him she will come back when the match has finished.

We find the church in the village, the sun is shining, so Kathleen is happy. Added to this, one of the chaps watching the football, apparently plays the Organ at the church, and he is called Albert, so she has a date with him (at church) on Sunday.

Saturday, I hardly dare say this, it is not raining!

It is hairdressing day, so it is decided we will do the cycling in the morning, before the hair washing etc.

There is a cycle track to the next village, Weikersheim, and it is reasonably flat. On our way we spot a Lidl and an Aldi, both within 3km of the campsite, just on the outskirts of Weikersheim.

There is nothing Kathleen likes better than to have a Lidl within cycling distance.

As you can see, there is a wedding in progress, they must have started early, it is only 10:15 and they are at the photographs stage.

Sorry, we still have the sideways photograph problem!

Weikersheim is another village full of buildings from the middle ages, and has a large square with cafes/bars around it, and lots of tables to sit having a drink and/or food.

This suggests, they usually have fine weather and warm sunshine here, although, some of the cafes do have blankets provided to wrap around you, while you sit enjoying your drink (I am not joking!).

Just at the end of the square, behind where the couple are having their wedding photographs taken, there is a Schloss or castle / stately home.

As you can see, it is a very grand affair, and dates back to 1400 and something, if my memeory is working.

This shot is of the courtyard in front of the main building.

It also has gardens, some of which are the "usual" formal rose garden type etc, but, the part I liked the best, was a "Witches and Spells Garden".

Here, in addition to all kinds of "magic" props, like animal bones, hideous masks etc, they have figures of witches sitting on broomsticks, with their pet Raven in attendance, perched high above the footpath where you walk.

There were other amusing little touches to do with superstitions, for example, as you walk along the path, you are forced to walk under a ladder, propped against the wall, because there is nowhere else to walk.

Plus there is this chap, a figure of a wizard or goblin, I am not sure which, sitting on the branch of a tree, watching you as you walk through the garden.

We cycle on towards Creglingen (this is about 19km away, I do not expect to get that far).

As we went along, we pass a Stellplatz at Rottingen (it is in the book). I linger to check it out, for Bryan and Joan.

Kathleen pedals on regardless, see later.

There are about 20 vans there (all German as far as I can see, not that it really matters).

It is opposite the fire station and alongside the river.

The green portacabin type buildings are showers and toilets, at the time we are passing, there is even a cleaner there, doing the necessary.

There is also the usual fresh water and waste empting point, plus Electric hook ups.

Once I have finished taking the photographs, I pedal on after Kathleen.

We have been following a well signposted cycle track, along the river. I continued following the track, through Rottingen, and on toward Creglingen.

I usually pedal quite a bit faster than Kathleen, so when I have not caught up with her after about two miles beyond Rottingen, I conclude, she is not in front of me, but must have taken a detour.

Fortunately, we have our mobile phones with us.

Needless to say, I get no answer when I call.

Shortly after, I receive a text, to say she is in the church at Rottingen. I turn around and peddle back, to Rottingen (seen here).

It is verbotten to comment on who's fault this little mix up was.

We set out, together this time, still heading toward Creglingen.

We make it as far at a place called Klinger, before it is decided we have gone far enough and we turn around and head back.

As you can see, the cycle track is excellent, making its way gently through lovely quiet countryside, and is more or less flat.

Although it looks deserted, except for Kathleen pedalling on ahead, there are actually quite a lot of people cycling along, or having a picnic at tables provided along the way.

We return to Weikersheim, and pause in the square for a beer, before pedalling back to the campsite, to complete a 23 mile ride.

After lunch, Kathleen disappears for the rest of the afternoon to do the hairwashing / drying / straightening.

June 16th 2010 – June 17th 2010

Wednesday, and we wake up to rain. We decide to give up, on waiting for better weather, and continue on our way along the Romantische Strasse.

There are no more campsites actually on, or reasonably near to the Romantische Strasse for some considerable distance, so we head for a Stellplatz (a German version of the French Aire).

Donauworth – Stellplatz

We have not used one of these before, so this will be another little adventure.

The Stellplatz is at Donauworth (for Bryan and Joan, or anyone else who may read this and come this way). We got it from the Stellplatz book (2010 version), it is Page 216. It is called Wohnmobilstellplatz am Festplatz. Which I think translates as “Mobile home parking place at the Festival Ground”.

The book says there are places for 8 vans, but when we get there we find there is marked out parking for 8 vans, plus unmarked space for about 4 more, on the edge of a large car park, but only 8 electric hook points (1Euro per 8hours of Electric at about 6amps).

There is a service point for fresh water, and a disposal point for Water and Chemical Toilet.

Water is 1 Euro/100litres, the actual parking is free, and you can stay for upto 5 days (we think), so in short it is 3Euro per day, or free if you do not bother with electric hook-up.

We arrived at about lunch time, at which point there were four vans, including ourselves. By 16:30 there were 10 vans, including one other Brit, the rest being German, Belgian and Swedish.

It is not very scenic, but it was quiet, and only five minutes walk into the town.

It is worth noting, if you may come this way, there was a poster for another StellPlatz, Wertingen (see Page 600 of Stellplatz book). It is a few kilometres off the Romantische Strasse, but the photograph looks very impressive.

Still on the subject of facilities, for the benefit of Bryan and Joan, or anyone else who may read this and come here, there is a town map at the tower on the edge of the old town. Among other things it shows the location of all of the Toilets, in the town, which Kathleen committed to memory.

Donauworth is a very pleasant little town, with lots of cafes and bars. It still has a significant proportion of the town walls and moat intact, dating back to the middle ages.

There is the usual crop of churches with incredible interiors (am I beginning to sound bored with them?).

This is just one of many ceiling paintings, and these are in churches in small towns/villages in Southern Germany, not major Cathederals. There must be dozens of them.

After a good initial explore, we settle into a pavement bar, a pleasant surprise the beers are only 2.5 Euro each for about a pint, the cheapest we have had I think. Kathleen gets her moneys worth by ensuring she makes good use of their toilet, since we are on our own facilities for as long as we stay here!

Thursday morning, surprise, it has not rained overnight, and it is not raining when we get up. The first time in several days.

We walk into Donauworth, for some groceries, and to have a bit more explore. We are very impressed by Donauworth, it is so beautifully kept, and a lot of the town walls, dating back to the middle ages are still intact. We do not know it yet, but there is even better to come.

Storks nest, on chimney of this building.

Really neat vegetable garden, this one taken especially for Martin.

Donauworth, Town Walls

Donauworth, Town Walls and moat.




We are beginning to think, there is so much to see on the Romantische Strasse, we will not be able to fit it all in, in the time we have available.

We come upon this place (Schlosse Harberg), as we drive along. It is free to park, and if you are happy just to browse and take photographs, that is free too. You can have a guided tour if you wish.

Kathleen can be seen checking out possible disposal points, since we will be on another Stellplatz tonight.

Next we come to Nordlingen. It is lunch time, so we stop, park and have a walk around the place.

Back to thos photographs which have not turned around!, damned computers.

We treat ourselves to a Latte Machiatta (a sort of fancy coffee), and enormous pieces of cake. Kathleen has (relatively) healthy Strawberry cake, I have a totally unhealthy slab of cream, black cherries, chocolate, ice cream and cake.

Nordlingen is even more impressive than Donauworth, with even more of its original Town Walls in tact.

Walking along the parapet of Nordlingen Town walls.

Nordlingen from the Town Walls.

More Nordlingen from the Town Walls.














Suitably filled with cake, we return to the van, and head for our destination for today, Dinkelsbuhl.

Dinkelsbuhl – Stellplatz

The Stellplatz is a sort of stripped down campsite and, I think, belongs to a campsite, which is about 500 metres along the road.

It is countryside on the edge of Dinkelsbuhl (about 1 mile, more or less flat, cycle track into town).

It is securely fenced, with “street lights” and an automatic barrier to let you in. You have to pay 10Euro per day, that is inclusive of Electricity (6amp), Water, waste disposal. You pay at the campsite about 500 metres along the road. You cannot get out until you pay!

There are marked out spaces for 14 vans. Once it is full it is full, no chance to squeeze in any more. There were only six vans there, including us. All German, except us of course.

We cycle into town, and explore, it is another beautiful little place, filled with building dating back to the Middle Ages, and all beautifully preserved, but still in regular use.

Dinkelsbuhl, town gate (c1340).

Dinkelsbuhl, street scene

Dinkelsbuhl, another town gate (c1640)

Dinkelsbuhl, houses built into town walls.






Lots of cake shops, it is clear, Germans like their cakes!





While we explore we see two of the German couples from the Stellplatz. On our return, I notice one couple have returned with a giant Strawberry flan (it must be at least 18” across and 3” deep). They sit and demolish half of it!