Thursday 19th May 2011 – Monday 23rd May 2011

Time is running out, so if we are to spend some time in Annecy, we need to leave Switzerland and head back towards France.



We never really make detailed plans for our Campervan trips, we have what I like to call a “pencil plan”, which is a rough idea of what we intend to do, but which may be changed if we want to.


So, when we come to look at the map (remembering we are still on kat-nav), we realise we have painted ourselves into a bit of a corner. Our next “planned” destination is the French side of Lac Leman (or Lake Geneva as we know it). There is no “good” road, from where we are, to Thonon-les-Bains, Lake Leman.


We have the choice or retracing our steps, to join a motorway going in the right direction, or, taking the mountain route. I never like going back, so, we take the mountain route.

The route first takes us along the southern shore of Thunnersee (ie the opposite side to where we cycled yesterday), about half way along the lake to Spiez, this is child’s play, even dual carriageway in places.


At Spiez we turn west, and join the much smaller road 11 (like the Germans, the Swiss seem just to give their roads numbers, no letter), heading for Zweisermmen.

No dual carriageway now. (sorry about the sideways photographs, still have not figured out how to turn them around in blog!)

We are following a river along a valley through the mountains, but it is certainly not flat.

I must admit, I have no problem with the ups and the downs, or the twists and turns. I am confident the van will go up the hills, and that the brakes are up to slowing us down on the downs, and that I can get around the tightest hairpin.

What concerns me, is the width of the road, and that coming in the opposite direction are 32 tonne wagons, some towing trailers!

Meeting one of them filling the whole opposite side of the road when you have crept even near the white line to ease a tight corner is a bit scary!

These lorry drivers deserve respect for negotiating these roads everyday.

The things that concern Kathleen are, because we are driving on the “wrong” side of the road, these lorries are coming at her on “her” side of the van and some of the corners have drops of several hundred feet, with only a flimsy fence to stop you going over if you (well I), misjudge it.

A plus point is, there is not much traffic, as you can see from the photographs.

So, bearing in mind, it is Kathleen taking these photographs, you are only seeing shots of the less scary bits.

For the “real” bits of excitement she is holding onto the grab handle over the cab door with one hand and the seat with the other hand, leaving no hands to hold the camera.

At Zweisermmen, amazingly, we find a Lidl.

We stop and shop, spending the remainder of our Swiss Francs on beer, and food.

Then head on past GStaad and towards Chateaux-d’Oex.


Here we have a choice to make, do we take the longer route via the slightly wider Road 12, towards Bulle, or do we continue on the 11, to Aigle via the 1445 metre high Col des Moses.

Naturally, we choose road 11 via Col des Moses towards Aigle.

I even manage to make it seem to be Kathleen's idea, by simply suggesting she may not be upto it, no McCaffery can resist that challenge.


There are no photographs of this stretch, since there were no hands available to hold the camera!


At Aigle, we stop for lunch, and then across the River Rhone, and back into France at St Gingolph.


Thonon-Les-Bains, Saint Disdille, (ASCI2011-1473)


This is a large site, but at this time of year, not very busy. So it is suitably quiet. Facilities are upto scratch. There is a nature reserve next to the site, and 200 yards from the entrance to the site, you are in a parkland area, on the shore of the Lake.


For once, the Dutch are not in the majority, mostly French and Swiss, with a few Germans and Dutch. Initially, we are the only Brits, but over the course of the next few days three more turn up.


We need to explore over the next few days and see if there is enough to keep us amused. For now, we have only the afternoon and evening. It is hair washing day, so that is the rest of the afternoon accounted for.


Kathleen spends the rest of the afternoon in hair care activities, a brief panic, Kathleen is running short on one of her hair care products, will be able to buy a replacement in France?


Friday and we need to do some “chores” ie washing. I think Kathleen has been having too much sun when she begins being very enthusiastic about the merits of Vanish Soap in removing ground in dirt. OK so the stuff works, that is what it is supposed to do isn’t it?


With our washing hung out to dry, we cycle into Thonon-Les-Bains.


It is a very pleasant place.


When we were in Switzerland, the campsite offered discount on several “extreme” activities, for example white water rafting, paragliding and travelling on a funicular railway. We decided that having lived to be 60+ we were not going to risk death hurtling down a river in a rubber dinghy, or jumping off a cliff with a kite tied to our back. We thought we might try the funicular railway, but when we saw the height of it, we decided riding our bikes thought unlit tunnels was probably safer.


On one day, we did see some paragliders landing in a field, and I almost had Kathleen talked round to trying it, on the basis it would mean being strapped to a fit young man. But the prospect of jumping off a cliff dulled her enthusiasm. I was not keen to start with, since there were no female instructors.

But, here in Thonon-Les-Bains, they have a funicular railway from the port up to the main town, and we decided this was probably adventurous for two OAP’s like us.

Although the views look impressive, it was not too high, and only took about five minutes to make the ascent.

It was lunch time.

The French take lunch time very seriously, so everything except bars and cafes was closed.

Personally I do not see that as a problem, and we soon sat in a nice little bar in the square sipping a half litre pitcher of cool rose wine.


Next task was to find the church, job done, Kathleen is all set for Sunday, 9:00am.


Kathleen is worrying the she is eating and drinking too much, so Saturday we have a mammoth cycle along the shore of Lake Geneva.

We first pass this chateaux on the way out from Thonon.

It is a working vineyard, it is called “Chateaux de Ripaille”, cannot say I have heard of it, it is a white wine I think.

The route is very pretty, although not always flat.

We pause for a refreshing beer in Port Sciez.

This photograph is very rare, and is especially for Bryan Crick, if you look very carefully, you can see Kathleen with her purse open.

We turn back at the thirteen mile mark, and head back towards Thonon, stopping for our picnic on the way.

At Thonon, Kathleen suggests we stop for ice cream, and again pays, there is something amiss!

On the lake, there is a yacht race in progress, it all looks very interesting, but having watched yacht racing several times before, I have to admit, to me, it is impossible to tell who is winning, or even where the course is, since boats seem to be going in just about every direction.


So todays little outing is 24 miles, we must have come back by a slightly shorter route than we went, I think that justifies a glass of two of wine tonight, and some crisps etc.


Sunday, we are up bright and early, because Kathleen is going to Church at 9:00 in Vongy (a small village on the edge of Thonon.


After church, the plan was to take a stroll in the Nature Reserve, but instead Kathleen is washing clothes again. I think the UK Government needs to classify Vanish Soap as a Class A drug, because it is clearly highly addictive.


When all of the clothes are hung on the line, we have a coffee, and then walk into Thenon to have our lunch at one of the many cafe/bars by the lake.


After lunch, we walk back via the lakeshore. We come upon a sign, which I translate as “Nudist Beach ahead, if you want to avoid it, follow the path to the right”. Kathleen refuses to believe my translation, so we end up walking through the nudist beach. I would just point out, Kathleen’s French is better than mine, so I leave it to you to decide if this was a deliberate ploy on her part. There were, by the way, more nude men than nude women (aren’t there always?).

When we get back to the site, there are two new British arrivals. A campervan and a caravan.


Then, this turns up.

At first it looks like a Volkswagen Passat, with a rather large roof box. They park, and fifteen minutes later they have the tent folded out, on the roof, complete with ladders to climb into it, and a neat little porch area to sit in.


I have seen this kind of set-up before on the roof of a Land Rover, but never on an ordinary family car.


Monday, we take our walk in the Nature Reserve next to the site.

We take the gate from the campsite, and follow the path, soon, we come to a very organised “hide” which overlooks a lake, (the nature reserve is the delta of the river Dranse and is heavily forested, with water waters running through it).


The information board says there are various kinds of animals and birds to be seen here. Over 800 species in fact, including beaver.


Other than several types of bird and a couple of cyclists, we don’t see a living thing. This reminds me, that, to see animals in the wild, you need two things, which are in short supply in present company, ie patience and quietness.


Presumably, I muse, if we had emigrated to North America in the 1700’s, and had to rely on our hunting skills to survive, we would have either starved to death or been killed by Indians who would have been able to hear us coming at a distance of several miles.

We eventually emerge from the forested area, onto the shoreline of the lake, at least here we have scenery to admire, and some rather magnificent swans.

A short distance along the coast, we come to this rather exclusive marina development, where many of the houses have their own mooring for a boat at the bottom of the garden.


After lunch we decide to cycle in the opposite direction (to which we went on Saturday) along the lake towards Evian, of bottled water fame.

This is a good choice, there is a good track, with easy cycling, leading to an area called “City de l’eau”, at Evian.


This is an area of parkland, by the lake, where people are lying on the grass, sun bathing.


Many of them are topless, young women.


Sorry chaps, no photographs.


I get the usual talk from Kathleen, that all of the goodies on display must be “boob jobs”, since no natural woman’s boobs stand up and point to the sky, when she is lying down. I am told, if they are small to medium size, they go flat, if the are big ones the flop under your arms.


Some plastic surgeon must have made himself very rich from this lot, is all I have to say.

We stop to refresh ourselves with a glass or two of cool, Rose.

As the sun sets over Lake Geneva, on our last night at Thonon-les-Bains.


An informal mass football game is going on in the park, mams, dads and kids all joining in. It is impossible to tell who is which side, or even where the goals are!

Well, this is a mammoth post!, we have had no internet for several days, sorry!

Wednesday May 18th 2011

Interlaken-Ost, TCS Camping Interlaken 6, (ACSI2011-717) continued.

The weather forecast says it will be a sunny and warm day, and it certainly is.

We cycle to Thunnersee, the other lake in the Interlaken "pair".

First we go along what is described as a canal, between the two lakes.

It is easy going, flat, but the cycle track wiggles about all over the place, and you have to keep watching out for signs telling you which way to go.

In the picture above, there is, believe it or not a high, snow covered mountain in the middle between the other two peaks, but for some reason my camera settings have merged it in with the sky and you cannot see it!

The route becomes more pleasant, passing along an avenue of trees.

We peddle along quite merrily, until some five miles later, we come to the next lake (Thunnersee).

This is quite stunning, but there is no cycle track, so we set off along the road. It is not a major road, and does not seem to have too much traffic.

But, it is certainly not flat!

If you look in the photograph, just to the right of the group of trees, you can just see the road, suspended on the hill side over the lake.

The plan is to cycle to the end of the lake, to the town called Thunn, it is still 17km (10 miles approximately) away.

So far it has been all up a steep hill, you can see Kathleen soldiering on up the hill.

Eventually it levelled out a bit, and was easier going, but then there we came to a series of tunnels.

Cycling through a relatively dark tunnel, with cars, lorries and buses overtaking you, is a bit intimidating.

We made it through the first series of a about 150 metres, but then came to an even longer one, with road works in progress in the tunnel and traffic lights for a traffic contra-flow.

We decided commonsense had to prevail, not being ready to have our wills read out just yet!. So we turned around and headed back for Interlaken, covering 17 miles.

We had our picnic in Interlaken, just across the river from our van!

The rest of the afternoon was spent in Kathleen's favourite occupation, ie lying in the sun.

Further experiments with the Remoska, were successful. This time using Joan Crick's method of making low fat chips in it (cut up chips, put in plastic bag with a little cooking oil, shake so all coated, then put chips in Remoska and cook).

Suddenly there are several new arrivals, and among them are no fewer than three British vans, this is the most we have seen in one place since we left home!

Wednesday 11th May 2011 - Tuesday 17th May 2011

Markelfingen , Camping Willam (ACSI2011-590)



Today, Wednesday as we leave Freiberg, it is overcast and rain looks like a real possibility. As we climb towards Titisee, the rain starts. This is the first rain we have had since we left home two weeks ago. We cannot complain at that, but of course we do.


It is clear by the way the road climbs, we would never have made Titisee on the bicycles, even if we had kept going beyond the 11 mile mark yesterday, admittedly, yesterday was fine and sunny, but today, we are soon engulfed in cloud as the road snakes it’s way up.


Once we have got over the hills past Titisee, the rain stops and the sun is shining again.


We are still on kat-nav, road 34 until we join the A81 autobahn. The Germans do not appear to prefix their road numbers with a letter which indicates the type of road. Maybe it is because all of their roads are of excellent quality.

A slight hiccup as we miss our exit and almost end up crossing into Switzerland. This is not deemed a mistake, since, at the point where we turn around there is a Lidl supermarket and we are able to do necessary shopping, then via a slight detour get back on track.

The site is on the shore of the Bodensee (Lake Constance, to us), between Markelfingen and Allensbach, slightly nearer to Markelfingen , with a traffic free cycle track to both.

Facilities are up to the usual high standard you would expect in Germany. There are no English instructions on how to work the washing machine, we learn that “Geld erst einwerfen wenn rote lampe leuchtet!” means “put your money in when the red light comes on”, but not of course until we have put our money in BEFORE the red light came on!. I know we are in Germany, and here they speak German, but, they could give some consideration to those of us whose knowledge of the language is limited to reading the Beano in their childhood, and hence know only "Achtung", "schnell", "swinehunt".


Only problem so far, there does not appear to be a wifi signal at the van, we might have to go to the bar.

A little cycle ride to Allensbach, accompanied by Kathleen, and we find a church, so the coming weekend's church requirements are sorted.


Thursday we wake up to rain, but it is hair washing day, so no real problem.


For the whole day, we have periods of dry followed by heavy downpours, not the weather to risk the carefully dried and straighten hair, so the most we do is a short walk into Markelfingen .


The highlight of the day is another culinary delight rustled up by Kathleen, using the Remoska. This really has been an excellent buy, I cannot understand why no other manufacturer has copied the idea and made a similar product. It is so versatile, a few days ago, I managed to make roast potatoes in it, and today Kathleen has made what she calls an oven omelette, which is like a quiche, without the pastry.


Friday dawns bright and sunny, not quite as hot, but a pleasant 24C will do us.


There is a cycle track right around the Lake, I have been told, it is 230km (144 miles), I cannot talk Kathleen into attempting it, so we settle for something more modest.


After breakfast we set off on our bicycles along the Cycle track to Konstanz. It is (fairly) easy going, a few ups and downs through the undulating countryside, but nothing too strenuous.

Konstanz itself is a slight disappointment, plenty of fine old buildings with murals painted on the wall, but given that it is a town built on a lakeshore, I had expected more of a “waterfront” feel to the place, where in practice the lake does not form a major part of the town.

It is a busy place, with lots of pavement cafes and bars, and lots of people strolling about or sitting in the sun.

Plus of course several fine churches.


We sit among the students on some steps to have our picnic lunch. I thought we fitted in rather well. Kathleen said she thought they would wonder why she had (as a student) had brought her dad (me) with her.


After lunch, we cycle part of the way back the way we had come, until we reach the causeway to Insel Reichenau, a sort of island in the lake.

We peddle along the cycle track, on the causeway, to the island.

Once on the island, it turns out to be quite hilly, which we did not expect. Only a few mutterings of discontent as we peddle along. The intention is to take a ferry back to Allensbach. We have an hour to wait for the ferry, so we indulge in a few beers and some chips at the cafe beside the ferry landing.

The ferry arrives dead on time (well this is Germany), and we find we are the only two passengers, for the short crossing.

We are soon off the ferry at the other side and peddle back along the cycle track to the campsite, to clock up 20 miles.


On our return to the site, we notice there have been quite a few arrivals some to the static caravans around the site, and some towing caravans. As the evening progresses, more and more arrive, it looks as if it is going to be a busy weekend!

One amusing little scene unfolds just beside us. A Swiss family arrive with two small girls (aged about 5 and 7), before their caravan is even unhitched, they are both whizzing around on bicycles!


More rain overnight, by morning it has stopped, but there is thick cloud cover, no blue skies today I fear.

We set off to cycle towards Radolfzell and perhaps beyond.

I think we could easily make it to Stein am Rhein (32km or 20 miles away), but I am out voted.

The cycle tracks are excellent, and it is easy going, we are soon at Radolfzell, where we stop to buy bread.

The cycletrack more or less follows the lakeshore, as we head on past Moos, for the point where the River Rhine leaves the lake.

This made me think that the Bodensee must be the source of the Rhine, but apparently not, the source is (I think) in Switzerland, I will have to look that up, when next I get access to Google.

We cycle through meadows, as I remember they used to be, ie filled with wild flowers of various types (signs of advancing years, talking about how things used to be).

Although the photographs do not show any other people, there are in fact quite a number of cyclists travelling in both directions.

Cycling along the lakeshore is clearly a popular pastime.

We make it as far as a place called Gaienhofen-Horn, which is at the point where the lake begins to taper off into a sort of “v” shaped bay, and then becomes the river Rhine.


We return the way we have come, despite my suggestions that we could keep going to Konstanz, thus, making a circuit of it.

We stop off for lunch at a beer garden beside the cycle track.


This evening, Kathleen goes to church in Allensbach, so with the 23 miles we clock up during the day, plus the 5 miles round trip to the church, that will be almost 30 miles today, quite enough for two pensioners, I am reminded. Plus it begins to rain just before we set out, so we get slightly wet on the way there, and soaked on the way back. I hope the powers that be appreciate the trouble Kathleen takes getting to Mass, and the trouble I go to in helping her get there.


Although going to Switzerland was not really part of our plan, we are so near, it seems silly not to go.


So accordingly on Monday morning (16th May) we check out and head for Interlaken.


I have tried to get into the sat-nav to see if there is anything which can be fixed (I suspect the battery), but my little box of various screwdriver bits does not include one small enough to fit the screws, which means we are still on kat-nav.

I not at liberty to comment, let us just say we got to know a place called Singen pretty well, before we got to the Swiss border. We bought our outrageously priced ticket to allow us to drive on their roads (35 Euro!).

Once in Switzerland it all went smoothly and we found the campsite without a problem, despite an unplanned diversion because of a closed road.


Interlaken-Ost, TCS Camping Interlaken 6, (ACSI2011-717).

We are right beside the waterway connecting the two lakes (Thunersee and Brienzersee), this is the view from our window.

The site is only ten minutes walk from Interlaken, and appears all very organised and clean, Swiss fashion.


The site has WiFi, so we should be able to get online, but I find (at 19:00) the Reception closes at 18:00, so I cannot buy an access code, I will have to wait until tomorrow.


The sun is shining, the weather forecast is for at least two more days of sun and temperatures of 23C, and this being Switzerland, the scenery is stunning.


Switzerland is not part of the Euro-zone, so we have to get some Swiss Francs. When I withdraw 100 Swiss Francs, at a cash machine, it gives me a 100Franc note, equivalent to £75!.

We decide to sit at a pavement bar to have a drink and get change. I anticipate problems trying to pay for two beers with what is effectively a £75 note. The waitress does not even falter and gives me change no problem. This is a seriously expensive place I suspect.

On Tuesday, we cycle to Brienz, which is almost at the other end of the lake (Brienzersee).

It is ten miles (there), and initially I have my doubts we are going to make it.

After only 2 miles (all up hill), Kathleen is asking "how far have we come?".

This is not a good sign. But, I can understand why. When you travel along a road in a car (or campervan), it may appear to be fairly flat. This is because to go up a hill, all you have to do is press a little harder with your right foot. When you have to peddle along the same road, you realise it is most definitely NOT flat, because you have to peddle a lot harder to go up hill!.

We make it to Brienz, without further signs of mutiny, it is a very pretty little place, and we have almost cycled the full length of the lake.

I make an attempt at persuasion to go just that bit further right to the end of the lake, nothing doing.

Here you see Kathleen, with her patient face on, waiting for the waiter to come and take our order for Latte Mochiatta, our present favourite (non-alcoholic) drink.

While here, it is a pity the camera puts only the date, and not the time, on each photograph, you see the transition to impatience, because the waiter has not appeared quickly enough.

I go inside to order, and discover he is having a bad computer day, with receipts spilling out everywhere.

We get our drinks in due course.

Having had a hot drink, and then eaten our picnic lunch, by the lakeside, old persons syndrome strikes of course, a toilet is needed. We find a novel public convenience. The walls are made of glass. From the outside, they are opaque (as you would expect). But once inside, they do not appear to be so opaque, it is rather disconcerting to be standing (or sitting) there doing the necessary, when you feel like the walls may be partially transparent!

We need to visit the supermarket for vegetables, which we do when we return to Interlaken, this place is expensive!