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Tuesday 14th October 2014 - Sunday 19th October 2014
This will be our last day at Saumur, indeed, it is effectively the last day of this trip, since from tomorrow we will be heading, slowly, toward Calais, to be there for Saturday evening, then catch our ferry, early Sunday.
But, let us not jump ahead.
Another beautiful day, with clear blue sky and sunshine, spent cycling along the south bank of the Loire.
We go from the campsite on Ile d'Offard, to Dampierre-sur-Loire, and return of course, just short of 10 miles.
At Dampierre-sur-Loire, we discover a new Aire, which does not appear to be in the Aires book.
It is in an area laid out as a picnic area, just off the D947, between the edge of the village and the River Loire. All rather pretty, with the usual "borne" to dispense water, dispose of waste, a toilet, but, no electric hookup. 5 Euro per night. (N47.241044' E-0.022341)
Refreshments, sitting in the sun, in Place de St Piere, in Saumur, courtesy of my generous wife.
The rest of the day is spent in a mixture of packing and chatting to newly arrived neighbours, David and Barbara, fellow Armitage Trailer owners and scooterists.
Wednesday, time to be moving on again.
A hundred and twenty miles, more or less, due North, and we park at an Aire, in a small town / village, called Rugles, (N48 49.370' E0 42.619'), in Haut Normandy.
It is a pity it is not Sunday, we have this old church, about 25 metres away!
It is no longer functioning as a church, the main church is in the village, with, it would appear some very enthusiastic, campanoligists.
The Aire is just a few minutes walk from the main street of the village.
It has space for about seven vans. Six free electric hook ups, and a free service point for water, waste etc.
The space is in two areas, three vans and two EHU's in one area, and four vans and fours EHU's in the other.
There are no signs to indicate there is a charge, and, so far, no one has appeared to collect any payment.
It is on the edge of a very attractive public park, with an old water mill.
You can stroll through the park to the High Street, where we contributed to the local economy by purchasing apple tarts, and a couple of beers.
It all seems very pleasant, the customers in the bar even shook hands with us, when we went in for a beer!
This is the town hall.
Now, remember, this a town / village with a population of only about 2,500.
How can they possibly support / fund such a grand town hall?, not to mention the rather grand public park, shown in the photographs above?
It makes no sense to me, but, it appears to work.
Thursday, on to Neufchatel-en-Bray, our old favourite, Camping St Claire. Still as well kept as ever, this ACSI site is only two hours south of Calais. Not that it concerns us, since we are "pet free", but, I told there is a good English speaking Vet in the Town, who can do all of the Pet formalities far cheaper than the Calais based Vets.
Apart from the fact the campsite is very well run, and inexpensive at 14Euro, we use this stopover to fill with cheap diesel (at Le Clerc), and stock up with cheap booze at Le Clerc and Lidl.
Weather is not too kind, warm and bright for most of the day, with just the odd shower, but, right at this moment, as I type this (20:00), it is pouring with rain!
Friday, our friends, (Bryan and Joan, Crick) arrive.
We have a wonderfully sunny day, which we spend in a very decadent way, ie sitting in the sun, chatting about our adventures and drinking beer.
We vary the theme in the evening, by drinking Red Wine, White Wine and Manderine, not all at once!.
Saturday, is another bright and sunny day, Joan and Bryan have an extra day compared to ourselves, so, they head off for an Aire on the coast.
Kathleen has a hair washing session, whilst I go shopping, then we head slowly for the Aire at Gravelines, our usual last overnight stop, when we have an early morning ferry / tunnel crossing.
Gravelines has a few advantages (in our opinion) over the Aire at Calais, ie,
- it is near a Church with a Mass on Saturday evening,
- it is far enough away from Calais to avoid any "asylum seeker problems" (not that we have seen any asylum seeker problems either , on previous occasions).
- There are enough places to walk, cycle to fill the time
- there are a number of bars and restaurants
- it is almost, scenic
Sunday morning, we are up at 6:00 to make our way to the 07:45 ferry, only to find, the travel arrangements administrator (Kathleen) has got the time wrong, it is the 08:15 ferry!
We could have had another half hour in bed!
Home by 16:30.
Friday 10th October 2014 - Monday 13th October 2014
Friday dawns with a thick mist, frizzy hair day, as Kathleen would call it, so, we must wait for the sun to "burn off" the mist.
Then, first task, to find the church which has a Saturday evening Mass (St Lambert de Levee). Google maps to the rescue.
As a bonus, we also find the Lidl.
On our return, our folding bicycles attract some attention from our new English neighbours, Brian and Norma.
After lunch we head off on the bicycles again, the intention is to follow the cycle track along the banks of the Loire.
It is mild, but, with a significant amount of cloud cover.
After about three miles, we feel the first drops of rain, so, we turn back and head for Saumur town centre.
By chance, we encounter a very large Commercial Centre / Le Clerc on the edge of town, a suitable place to shelter from the rain.
Kathleen has still not acquired my birthday present, by good luck, the Le Clerc has Courvoisier.
We discover, they also have a drink called "Mandarine Napolean", which our friends, Bryan and Joan had told us about.
Kathleen decides to buy both for my birthday.
It is my lucky day.
My luck doesn't last, Kathleen has no money with her!
So, I buy myself a bottle of Courvoisier and a bottle of Mandarine Napolean, for my birthday.
The rain has stopped, and we have blue skies, when we emerge from the Le Clerc, but, I am weighed down with bottles of drink and a three litre box of wine, so, we limit out cycle ride to just over six miles and head back to the van to sample the Mandarine.
It is VERY NICE.
Saturday and Sunday, weather is "changeable", although, we do not actually get much rain, but, the uncertainty limits the length of our cycle rides.
Lunch on Saturday, and we are able to eat outdoors in the square.
Saturday evening we able to peddle to St Lambert De Levees, so Kathleen can attend church, and return, without a soaking.
Sunday, a forecast thunderstorm, turns out to be a few heavy drops of rain, and a few distant rumbles of thunder, not enough to prevent a walk with refreshments!
Monday. Blue sky, sunshine.
We decide to cycle along the River Loire.
I want to cycle along the South facing river bank, ie, the opposite side to the Chateau.
I actually checked it out on Saturday evening, whilst Kathleen was at church.
It is not a dedicated cycle track, but the road is very quiet, with a 30kph (20mph) speed limit.
I am over-ruled in favour of the North facing river bank, because:
- It has a dedicated cycle track.
We will pass the Le Clerc, and can then buy another bottle of Manderine Napoleon.
Kathleen says so.
The positive aspect of this decision is the route is very scenic, but, since at points in leaves the river bank, it is a bit up and down hill.
The folding bicycles are good, but, they are not ideal for steep hills!
Nevertheless, we manage just over 16 miles, and, acquire a bottle on Manderine Napoleon.
Wednesday 8th October 2014 - Thursday 9th October 2014
As we are doing final packing up to leave, the sun comes out!
Tempted to stay, but, no, off we go the 80 miles or so to Saumur.
Shopping for food (and wine) supplies en-route.
We have some rain en-route, but, soon the sky clears, and we are back to sunshine and fluffy white clouds.
The campsite at Saumur is an ACSI site, called Ile de Offard (N47 15' 36" W0 3' 52").
It is located, as it's name suggests, on an island in the River Loire.
At the entrance to the site is a large notice board, informing you in several languages what to do if the site has to be evacuated due to flooding!
A trifle worrying, since, it is soon p***ing down, with thunder and lightening thrown in.
Kathleen, looking on the brightside, points out, we are on a pitch at the highest point in the site.
Thursday and the weather has improved, sunshine with a little cloud, is the official description.
What is it with women?, a fine day, and, their first thought is "nice day to do some washing".
So, we make use of the washing machines and dryers, clean clothes all round again.
After lunch, a stroll into town (Saumur).
First, we check out the Tourist Information Office, closed for lunch, (separating the French and lunch, is no easy task).
Next, by chance, we locate a restaurant which I have read many recommendations for (Le Trianon).
The reviews I have read, say, it looks a little basic, and old fashioned, indeed most of them compare it to the Café in 'allo 'allo, (the comedy series, for you youngsters).
Well, it remains to be seen if we will try it of not. The menu looks appertising, and the price is an incredible 11Euro, but, it does really look "shabby chic".
Time for a little culture..., a wander through the streets of the "old town", check out the church, and visit the rather imposing Chateaux.
This, I assume is the servants quarters!
No wonder the French had a Revolution!
Eventually, we are fully cultured, and retire to a bar.
While we are enjoying a refreshing "biere au pression", we meet two of our neighbours from the site.
The lady of the pair injured her hip some years ago, and, has since had the joint replaced no less than SIX times, and, they still ride around on a tandem! Some people are amazing.
Sunday 5th October 2014 - Tuesday 7th October 2014
Not a lot works out as planned today, but, a good day never the less.
It is Sunday, so, off we peddle into Coulon, where, according to the church noticeboard, there is a Mass, at 10:30.
There is also supposed to be a Market, but, after Friday's effort, we are not expecting too much.
We arrive at the church, much to Kathleen's disappointment, the mass is cancelled, there is an alternative posted, but, it is also at 10:30 and is in a village 10 miles away! Since we are on the bicycles, not the scooter, it is simply not possible to get there.
The market is slightly more grand, about five stalls selling foodstuffs, two of which are selling fish. Not of interest to Kathleen!
We retire to the van to have coffee and soak up some rays, before cycling back into Coulon to have an early "birthday meal" (it is my birthday tomorrow).
I treat Kathleen to an excellent meal at the "Quai Sud Restaurant".
Wait a minute, did I just type that?
It is MY birthday, and I am treating Kathleen, I think I have been done AGAIN!
Monday, my birthday, and he weather forecast is right, it is raining and rather cool.
All of our neighbours, and Kathleen's audience:
- a Dutch couple, who seem to enjoy cycling and drinking red wine, so, nice people!
- the Belgian couple who are fellow cyclists, scooter riders, and, red wine drinkers
- The English couple, Susan and Ian, Brompton Folding bicycle riders
are leaving today, we are rather sad to see them go!
Autumn has definitely arrived, the ground is carpeted in fallen leaves.
Tuesday, more rain, for most of the day.
We manage to get the scooter and bicycles loaded, in between the showers, without getting too wet.
Towards evening, it brightens enough to get outdoors for a stroll.
We encounter this rather attractive Gite, just along the road. It looks very attractive, at least from the outside. Perfect if you like tranquillity.
Friday 3rd October 2014 - Saturday 4th October 2014
The notice board in the campsite, says, there is a market on, Friday (and Sunday), in "Place de l'Eglise" (Church square), Coulon.
This is enough to get Kathleen out of bed by 9:00, the prospect of more 10Euro shoes!
Off we go on the scooter.
What an anti-climax, there is one, yes, that is right, one stall, and, to add insult to injury, that is selling cheese.
Not a shoe, handbag, scarf, etc, etc in sight.
As her majesty would say, "one is not amused".
We go in search of the Super-U at Magne, and replenish wine supplies, plus some cream cakes.
After coffee and cakes, I indulge my artistic tendencies, at the riverside, just outside of the campsite, with a little photography session, whilst Kathleen plays the dutiful wife and makes my lunch.
I have bad feeling about all of this dutiful wife business, I just know, there is going to be a cost.
A short walk from the campsite entrance, there is a parking area, and, I have noticed, people often park there, to go fishing in the river.
I had noticed that some of the spaces are marked as reserved for the disabled, but, today, I noticed, they even have a position on the river bank, reserved for disabled fishermen (or women).
The French think of everything!
It is my birthday shortly (Monday), and, Kathleen wishes to buy me a bottle of one of my favourite tipples (Remy Martin, or Courvoisier).
We were unable to find any at the Super-U in Magne, so, it is decided we will take the scooter and find the Le Clerc on the North side of Noirt.
A disappointing trip, they do not have either brand, but, Kathleen scores again, we leave the Le Clerc with a bottle of Cointreau for her.
How did that happen, have I been done again?
Saturday, the weather forecast says it is going to rain, but, when we emerge for breakfast, the sun is shining.
The marathon bicycle ride of Thursday is forgotten, so, off we go to cycle another route, from the Tourist Information Map.
It being Saturday, Coulon is much busier, lots of people out on the river in boats, and, feeding the ducks and swans.
But, it is not long before we are in absolutely quiet woodland, and peddling along, all by ourselves.
The countryside here is mostly flat, with waterways, some natural, some manmade, crisscrossing the landscape.
But, there are some hills!
Sometimes Prendeslone is just not enough, and, you have to get off and push!
The forecast rain has not materialised by 14:00, but, as we are sitting eating lunch, and then chatting to our neighbours Ian and Susan, the clouds roll in.
Time for plan B, Hair Washing!
But, the clouds blow over, and still no rain.
Wednesday 1st October 2014 - Thursday 2nd October 2014
Another misty start, turning into glorious sunshine by 10:00.
We travel to Coulon, a bit North, so, this is the beginning of heading home, sadly.
Camping La Venise Verte (N46 18'54" W0 36'33"), an ACSI site, about 1 mile outside of the village of Coulon.
A very pleasant site, although, almost empty.
This area is known a "Green Venice", because of the number of waterways.
Plenty of cycling we are told.
Thursday, another one of those days when reality intrudes, we are running out of clean clothes, so, first task is doing the washing.
Once it is all nicely pegged out, on the line, we decide to cycle to Magne.
According to the map, which Kathleen got from the Tourist Office, there is a circular route, which is 21km (c12.5 Miles).
Off we go, it is mostly along bicycle tracks, or very small roads with little of no traffic.
Another brilliant day, sunshine, and a very pleasant 22C.
Can this really be true, it is after all, the beginning of October, the weather has been superb.
Magne, is a beautiful little place, we pause and have a wander around.
There is a very attractive bridge, over the river. It is decorated with flowers, beautiful houses on both sides.
The bridge is in the process of being painted, but, it is lunch time, no sign of the workmen.
We do not know it yet, but, this will be our downfall.
It is lunch time, we decide to search out somewhere to get a snack and some refreshments.
Le Chene Vert, (The Green Oak) looks promising.
It appears to be incredibly popular, the eating area is fully booked.
But, we are happy to sit on the patio area, drink our Rose, and, eat our Frites.
The measure of Rose is very generous, there are no fewer than five glasses each, in the carafe.
It is Kathleen's turn to pay, well, to be honest, her turn is WELL overdue.
But, as you can see, after five glasses of Rose, she is relaxed about the bill.
She has a good right to be, when the bill comes, it is only 5Euro!
Yes, Kathleen has done it again, it is her turn to pay, and the bill is tiny!
We have sat drinking and talking for so long, everyone else has left, including the workmen who are painting the bridge.
When we get to the bridge, it is closed, the workmen have a sort of "cherry picker" parked right in the middle of it, and large "Route Barre" signs in place.
We need to cross the bridge to follow "route 7" from the map.
We take what we think is a detour to get around the closed bridge, but, end up on the "wrong" side of another stretch of water.
Eventually, we come to a village (St Liguaire), where we encounter an elderly Frenchman who is cutting his hedge.
He directs us, in a mixture of sign language and French, how to get back onto "route 7".
What we decipher from the exchange is:
- we need to go to the village centre
- peddle very fast, because, next...
- go up a big hill
- at the top of the hill, turn sharp left.
Sure enough, it is exactly as described, and, we are soon back on the correct route.
The mellowness brought on by five glasses of rose is just beginning to wear off Kathleen, when we cycle into Coulon, after 15 miles.
As good as the folding bicycles have proved themselves to be, it is decided we are not going to be cycling tomorrow, so, the scooter is unloaded from the trailer.
The effects of the Rose clearly have not completely worn off.....
Kathleen continues her dutiful wife and bike chick role, by cleaning the scooter....
It will not last....
Monday 29th September 2014 - Tuesday 30th September 2014
We wake up to heavy rain.
We plan to leave Ile de Re today, and, the rain lasts just long enough to ensure I get nice and wet as I pack the final things, and hitch up the trailer.
A short drive to Soubise, (N45 55.703' W1 00,401'), an Aire at a Marina, with Electric hookup and toilets, showers at the harbour masters office.
It is 7Euro per 24 hours, payment by credit / debit card only, at a machine.
The Aire appears to be popular, even towards the end of September.
We arrived just after lunch, and it was more than half full.
By 16:00 the number of vans had exceeded the number of Electric hookup points.
It is a short walk to town, for shops, etc.
Soubise appears to be a sleepy little place, but, judging from some of the grand buildings, the size of the church, and the ancient cannons arranged along the waterfront, it has not always been so.
For once, my favourite source of information, Google, has let me down, I cannot find anything to explain Soubise's former importance, if indeed it had any!
There is a bar / restaurant as you drive in.
It was busy at lunch time, but, closed in the evening!
In the course of manoevering the trailer, by hand, I ran over my foot!,
It does hurt!
Not sure if I have broken a toe!.
Looking on the brightside, it is sunny and warm again!
Hopefully, tomorrow, it will continue sunny, and, my foot will have recovered, so that we can go out cycling and/or exploring on the scooter.
Tuesday, and it is a misty start to the day, but, but 10:00 the sun has burnt off the mist, and, the temperature is climbing towards the forecast 24C.
We head off on our bicycles toward Rochefort.
The foot is feeling OK, so long as I do not put my weight on it, so, OK sitting on the bike!
As we peddle along the banks of the River Charante, we come to what looks like the Transporter Bridge, at Teeside!
Perhaps Oz (Auf Wiedersehen Pet), sold it to the French, not the Americans?
For those of you too young to remember, Auf Wiedersehen Pet, was a TV Comedy series, broadcast in the early 1980's, yes, that is correct, last century!
However it comes to be here, the French Transporter Bridge is still working away, crossing the river every 15 minutes or so, (with a break for lunch of course).
The fare is 2.60Euro per person per return trip, bikes go free.
Ourselves, and a lone Frenchman on a bicycle, are the only passengers.
When he sees me taking photographs of Kathleen, he kindly volunteers to take a photograph of the two of us.
Note carefully Dana, Claire and Phillippa, mam is NOT wearing her cycle helmet, her excuse was, "it is a frizzy hair day".
After the transporter bridge, the cycle track continues up the river, until it comes to a large dry-dock, (dating to the time of Napolean) and various other grand buildings.
Then, you are into Rochefort town centre, and what an attractive place it is.
According to Runkeeper, we have peddled six miles, we still have to go back of course, after refreshments!
Why can our English towns not be like this?
Saturday 27th September 2014 - Sunday 28th September 2014
Saturday, a completely lazy day, lay about all day doing nothing.
Cycled into La Flotte in the evening, so Kathleen could go to church.
Sat by the harbour, in the evening sun, reading my book, whilst Kathleen did the church bit, bliss!
Sunday, hair washing day, that is Kathleen occupied for the morning. I spend the time packing, the site closes Tuesday, and we plan to leave tomorrow.
A gentle cycle ride into La Flotte for Sunday Lunch, at a habourside restaurant.
We arrive to find the market is in full swing, it is mostly a food market, so, of little interest to Kathleen.
We have an excellent lunch.
Lunch was almost free, because the waiter gave us the next table's change instead of the bill! (we did correct him, honest).
I am becoming a bit concerned about Kathleen's alcohol intake, when it came to choosing dessert, she even opted for Rum and Raisin Ice Cream, that is after a carafe of Rose!
Disappointingly, the nearby bar does not do cocktails, but, we find, they do an excellent Gin and Tonic, well, more a Gin and Gin really, since there was little trace of tonic in it.
Wednesday 24th September 2014 - Friday 26th September 2014
The plan for Wednesday is to do "a little" cycling. Little do we know how much we are actually going to do!
The island is fairly small, we have a map, what can go wrong?
We set off heading for a place called Sainte Marie de Re, which is on the "opposite" coast.
Ile de Re is a cyclists paradise, reasonably flat, plenty of dedicated cycle tracks and/or quiet roads.
There are even signposts on the cycle tracks.
We peddle and peddle, and, we come to....
Le Bois Plage en Re!
At least, it IS on the opposite coast!
Never mind, it is a pleasant place, and (it is not often you will hear me say this) it has a very pleasant market.
Our first purchase is a rather clever little device to chop onion, garlic, parsley etc. It is hand operated, and, we are assured by the lady on the stall, dishwasher proof.
I am always reluctant to buy kitchen "gadgets", because, Kathleen, although very accomplished at many things, is (now how can I put this?) not exactly an enthusiastic cook. (is that a "safe" comment, I wonder).
The gadget is purchased on the understanding, she will actually use it more than once.
Time will tell.
As usual in your average French market, there are excellent food stalls, and we are able to buy our picnic lunch of ham quiche plus a ham and cheese sandwich.
Suitably fed, we decide to continue or quest to find Sainte Marie de Re.
Disregarding the map, and following the signposts, .....
we eventually find ourselves at a very beautiful, deserted beach...
we are now in serious need of an alcohol top up, it is thirsty work, all of this peddling.
We press on, and, eventually find the village square in Sainte Marie de Re, complete with very pleasant bar.
Refreshed, we head for the campsite, via La Flotte.
My trusty Runkeeper App, tells me we have cycled almost 15 miles, this is a record for us on the folding bicycles.
Kathleen cannot wait to try out her new kitchen gadget, and soon has a nice collection of chopped onion and garlic.
This, or course, means she must cook something.
So, here she is, rustling up a culinary delight, alfresco!
We do not have a dishwasher in the campervan, but, I can confirm, the "gadget" is easy to wash by hand.
Will it get a second outing?
Even when enjoying yourself, clothes get dirty and have to be washed, so, Thursday is a "housework" day, clothes washing, riding to the supermarket on the scooter to buy supplies.
New wine glasses to replace those I broke (damned speed bumps)!
The kitchen "gadget" actually gets a second outing, Kathleen cooking alfresco, second day in a row.
Perhaps it was worth 15Euro?
The campsite closes in a few days (30th September), and may people are packing up to leave.
Friday, Kathleen suggests we do a tour of the island on the scooter.
I may be a cynic, but, I am immediately suspicious.
We ride to several places, St Martin de Re, La Couarde Sur Mer, then Kathleen suggests, we go to Le Bois Plage En Re again.
It so happens, pure coincidence you understand, there is an even bigger market on at Le Bois on a Friday.
Kathleen acquires a new pair of shoes, they do not quite fit, but, what a bargain, only 10Euro!
I am joking, they do fit, and, they look very nice, they were only 10Euros.
We return to the van, and have a light lunch, then go out cycling again, there is no doubt, the best way to see this place is on a bicycle!
We ride towards RiveDoux Plage, which is near the bridge which links the island to La Rochelle.
It is another absolutely beautiful day.
I cannot believe how fortunate we have been with the weather, fingers crossed it keeps this way!
But, cycling in the sun makes you thirsty, so, Kathleen is soon peddling off ahead in search of a bar.
Where she is soon on the Vin Rose.
Then, back to La Flotte, this time, for ice cream!
