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Wednesday 1st October 2014 - Thursday 2nd October 2014
Another misty start, turning into glorious sunshine by 10:00.
We travel to Coulon, a bit North, so, this is the beginning of heading home, sadly.
Camping La Venise Verte (N46 18'54" W0 36'33"), an ACSI site, about 1 mile outside of the village of Coulon.
A very pleasant site, although, almost empty.
This area is known a "Green Venice", because of the number of waterways.
Plenty of cycling we are told.
Thursday, another one of those days when reality intrudes, we are running out of clean clothes, so, first task is doing the washing.
Once it is all nicely pegged out, on the line, we decide to cycle to Magne.
According to the map, which Kathleen got from the Tourist Office, there is a circular route, which is 21km (c12.5 Miles).
Off we go, it is mostly along bicycle tracks, or very small roads with little of no traffic.
Another brilliant day, sunshine, and a very pleasant 22C.
Can this really be true, it is after all, the beginning of October, the weather has been superb.
Magne, is a beautiful little place, we pause and have a wander around.
There is a very attractive bridge, over the river. It is decorated with flowers, beautiful houses on both sides.
The bridge is in the process of being painted, but, it is lunch time, no sign of the workmen.
We do not know it yet, but, this will be our downfall.
It is lunch time, we decide to search out somewhere to get a snack and some refreshments.
Le Chene Vert, (The Green Oak) looks promising.
It appears to be incredibly popular, the eating area is fully booked.
But, we are happy to sit on the patio area, drink our Rose, and, eat our Frites.
The measure of Rose is very generous, there are no fewer than five glasses each, in the carafe.
It is Kathleen's turn to pay, well, to be honest, her turn is WELL overdue.
But, as you can see, after five glasses of Rose, she is relaxed about the bill.
She has a good right to be, when the bill comes, it is only 5Euro!
Yes, Kathleen has done it again, it is her turn to pay, and the bill is tiny!
We have sat drinking and talking for so long, everyone else has left, including the workmen who are painting the bridge.
When we get to the bridge, it is closed, the workmen have a sort of "cherry picker" parked right in the middle of it, and large "Route Barre" signs in place.
We need to cross the bridge to follow "route 7" from the map.
We take what we think is a detour to get around the closed bridge, but, end up on the "wrong" side of another stretch of water.
Eventually, we come to a village (St Liguaire), where we encounter an elderly Frenchman who is cutting his hedge.
He directs us, in a mixture of sign language and French, how to get back onto "route 7".
What we decipher from the exchange is:
- we need to go to the village centre
- peddle very fast, because, next...
- go up a big hill
- at the top of the hill, turn sharp left.
Sure enough, it is exactly as described, and, we are soon back on the correct route.
The mellowness brought on by five glasses of rose is just beginning to wear off Kathleen, when we cycle into Coulon, after 15 miles.
As good as the folding bicycles have proved themselves to be, it is decided we are not going to be cycling tomorrow, so, the scooter is unloaded from the trailer.
The effects of the Rose clearly have not completely worn off.....
Kathleen continues her dutiful wife and bike chick role, by cleaning the scooter....
It will not last....
Monday 29th September 2014 - Tuesday 30th September 2014
We wake up to heavy rain.
We plan to leave Ile de Re today, and, the rain lasts just long enough to ensure I get nice and wet as I pack the final things, and hitch up the trailer.
A short drive to Soubise, (N45 55.703' W1 00,401'), an Aire at a Marina, with Electric hookup and toilets, showers at the harbour masters office.
It is 7Euro per 24 hours, payment by credit / debit card only, at a machine.
The Aire appears to be popular, even towards the end of September.
We arrived just after lunch, and it was more than half full.
By 16:00 the number of vans had exceeded the number of Electric hookup points.
It is a short walk to town, for shops, etc.
Soubise appears to be a sleepy little place, but, judging from some of the grand buildings, the size of the church, and the ancient cannons arranged along the waterfront, it has not always been so.
For once, my favourite source of information, Google, has let me down, I cannot find anything to explain Soubise's former importance, if indeed it had any!
There is a bar / restaurant as you drive in.
It was busy at lunch time, but, closed in the evening!
In the course of manoevering the trailer, by hand, I ran over my foot!,
It does hurt!
Not sure if I have broken a toe!.
Looking on the brightside, it is sunny and warm again!
Hopefully, tomorrow, it will continue sunny, and, my foot will have recovered, so that we can go out cycling and/or exploring on the scooter.
Tuesday, and it is a misty start to the day, but, but 10:00 the sun has burnt off the mist, and, the temperature is climbing towards the forecast 24C.
We head off on our bicycles toward Rochefort.
The foot is feeling OK, so long as I do not put my weight on it, so, OK sitting on the bike!
As we peddle along the banks of the River Charante, we come to what looks like the Transporter Bridge, at Teeside!
Perhaps Oz (Auf Wiedersehen Pet), sold it to the French, not the Americans?
For those of you too young to remember, Auf Wiedersehen Pet, was a TV Comedy series, broadcast in the early 1980's, yes, that is correct, last century!
However it comes to be here, the French Transporter Bridge is still working away, crossing the river every 15 minutes or so, (with a break for lunch of course).
The fare is 2.60Euro per person per return trip, bikes go free.
Ourselves, and a lone Frenchman on a bicycle, are the only passengers.
When he sees me taking photographs of Kathleen, he kindly volunteers to take a photograph of the two of us.
Note carefully Dana, Claire and Phillippa, mam is NOT wearing her cycle helmet, her excuse was, "it is a frizzy hair day".
After the transporter bridge, the cycle track continues up the river, until it comes to a large dry-dock, (dating to the time of Napolean) and various other grand buildings.
Then, you are into Rochefort town centre, and what an attractive place it is.
According to Runkeeper, we have peddled six miles, we still have to go back of course, after refreshments!
Why can our English towns not be like this?
Saturday 27th September 2014 - Sunday 28th September 2014
Saturday, a completely lazy day, lay about all day doing nothing.
Cycled into La Flotte in the evening, so Kathleen could go to church.
Sat by the harbour, in the evening sun, reading my book, whilst Kathleen did the church bit, bliss!
Sunday, hair washing day, that is Kathleen occupied for the morning. I spend the time packing, the site closes Tuesday, and we plan to leave tomorrow.
A gentle cycle ride into La Flotte for Sunday Lunch, at a habourside restaurant.
We arrive to find the market is in full swing, it is mostly a food market, so, of little interest to Kathleen.
We have an excellent lunch.
Lunch was almost free, because the waiter gave us the next table's change instead of the bill! (we did correct him, honest).
I am becoming a bit concerned about Kathleen's alcohol intake, when it came to choosing dessert, she even opted for Rum and Raisin Ice Cream, that is after a carafe of Rose!
Disappointingly, the nearby bar does not do cocktails, but, we find, they do an excellent Gin and Tonic, well, more a Gin and Gin really, since there was little trace of tonic in it.
Wednesday 24th September 2014 - Friday 26th September 2014
The plan for Wednesday is to do "a little" cycling. Little do we know how much we are actually going to do!
The island is fairly small, we have a map, what can go wrong?
We set off heading for a place called Sainte Marie de Re, which is on the "opposite" coast.
Ile de Re is a cyclists paradise, reasonably flat, plenty of dedicated cycle tracks and/or quiet roads.
There are even signposts on the cycle tracks.
We peddle and peddle, and, we come to....
Le Bois Plage en Re!
At least, it IS on the opposite coast!
Never mind, it is a pleasant place, and (it is not often you will hear me say this) it has a very pleasant market.
Our first purchase is a rather clever little device to chop onion, garlic, parsley etc. It is hand operated, and, we are assured by the lady on the stall, dishwasher proof.
I am always reluctant to buy kitchen "gadgets", because, Kathleen, although very accomplished at many things, is (now how can I put this?) not exactly an enthusiastic cook. (is that a "safe" comment, I wonder).
The gadget is purchased on the understanding, she will actually use it more than once.
Time will tell.
As usual in your average French market, there are excellent food stalls, and we are able to buy our picnic lunch of ham quiche plus a ham and cheese sandwich.
Suitably fed, we decide to continue or quest to find Sainte Marie de Re.
Disregarding the map, and following the signposts, .....
we eventually find ourselves at a very beautiful, deserted beach...
we are now in serious need of an alcohol top up, it is thirsty work, all of this peddling.
We press on, and, eventually find the village square in Sainte Marie de Re, complete with very pleasant bar.
Refreshed, we head for the campsite, via La Flotte.
My trusty Runkeeper App, tells me we have cycled almost 15 miles, this is a record for us on the folding bicycles.
Kathleen cannot wait to try out her new kitchen gadget, and soon has a nice collection of chopped onion and garlic.
This, or course, means she must cook something.
So, here she is, rustling up a culinary delight, alfresco!
We do not have a dishwasher in the campervan, but, I can confirm, the "gadget" is easy to wash by hand.
Will it get a second outing?
Even when enjoying yourself, clothes get dirty and have to be washed, so, Thursday is a "housework" day, clothes washing, riding to the supermarket on the scooter to buy supplies.
New wine glasses to replace those I broke (damned speed bumps)!
The kitchen "gadget" actually gets a second outing, Kathleen cooking alfresco, second day in a row.
Perhaps it was worth 15Euro?
The campsite closes in a few days (30th September), and may people are packing up to leave.
Friday, Kathleen suggests we do a tour of the island on the scooter.
I may be a cynic, but, I am immediately suspicious.
We ride to several places, St Martin de Re, La Couarde Sur Mer, then Kathleen suggests, we go to Le Bois Plage En Re again.
It so happens, pure coincidence you understand, there is an even bigger market on at Le Bois on a Friday.
Kathleen acquires a new pair of shoes, they do not quite fit, but, what a bargain, only 10Euro!
I am joking, they do fit, and, they look very nice, they were only 10Euros.
We return to the van, and have a light lunch, then go out cycling again, there is no doubt, the best way to see this place is on a bicycle!
We ride towards RiveDoux Plage, which is near the bridge which links the island to La Rochelle.
It is another absolutely beautiful day.
I cannot believe how fortunate we have been with the weather, fingers crossed it keeps this way!
But, cycling in the sun makes you thirsty, so, Kathleen is soon peddling off ahead in search of a bar.
Where she is soon on the Vin Rose.
Then, back to La Flotte, this time, for ice cream!
Sunday 21st September 2014 - Tuesday 23rd September 2014
After all of the beautiful weather, today starts as a "frizzy hair" day, foggy and damp.
But, it Sunday, so, frizzy hair or not, Kathleen has to go to church!
While Kathleen does the "church thing", I amuse myself watching a "parade" of British Classic Cars.
Not sure what it is all about, but, there are more Classic British cars here, than there are in Britain!
Then we visit a small area of the town, where all of the houses have mosaics on the walls, made of sea shells.
Again, not sure what it is all about, but, very pretty.
Lunch beckons, cocktails, lunch, followed by Cointreau, is Kathleen safe to ride home?
We plan to leave here tomorrow, so, after packing every things away (except the bicycles) and loading the scooter on the trailer, we peddle down to the coast, for one last evening of watching the sea.
Monday morning, time to leave Le Chateau-d'Olonne and head for our next destination, La Flotte-en-Re, La Grainetier on the Ile de Re.
An easy 60 mile journey.
There is a (toll) bridge, from La Rochelle, to Ile De Re.
The toll, varies depending on the season, at this time of year (September) it is 8Euro for Campervans upto 3.5Tonne and 16Euro for vans over 3.5Tonne.
Much to Kathleens delight, we are charged only 8Euro, despite being 3.750Tonne.
Clearly, the toll booths do not have a weighing mechanism!
Weather continues sunny and warm.
Spoke too soon, Tuesday morning, we have to put the heating on in the van!
Our English neighbours (a very elderly couple, towing a caravan) are leaving. The lady of the pair supposedly hails from Newcastle, you would never think it from her accent, she must have gone to elocution lessons!
Their caravan mover has gone on the blink, so, we render assistance manhandling the caravan into position to hitch up. They are heading towards Cahors, goodness knows how they are going to manage to heave the caravan about.
By lunch time, the sun is out again, and it is warm enough to venture out on our bicycles to explore.
Into La Flotte, the nearest village, to check out the church, ready for Sunday!
Then on a few more miles to Saint Martin de Re, a much more interesting and pretty village.
The "old" village and port are surrounded by a very extensive and impressive wall, dating from 1600's or possibly before. complete with moat (now dry).
There is an impressive church, partly ruined.
It has suffered all kinds of calamities during the centuries, storm and bombardment (not by us, for once, but, by the Dutch).
We find a bar, to have a refreshing beer, and observe this, no doubt worried, campervan driver, who has ended up on the quayside, with a rather large campervan, and a very narrow road, plus lots of pedestrians and cyclists to avoid.
Friday 19th September 2014 - Saturday 20th September 2014
So far, we have found only one supermarket, so, I went out exploring on the scooter, and in quick time found a Le Clerc, and two of Kathleen's favourite Lidl! One as it turns out is in walking distance.
Learned another valuable lesson, 16:30 is rush hour in this part of France, the colleges obviously finish for the day at about this time, the roads were filled with teen age students, on 50cc scooters, buzzing about like a swarm of bees.
After a rather lazy day on Friday, only a walk to the coast in the evening, we decide to do a more ambitious cycle ride today (Saturday).
There is a cycle track along the coast, signposted to a place called Port Bourgenay, I have checked out the route (but on the road) on the scooter, it is a bit up and down, but, no need to mention that until we are well on our way!
The weather forecast says "rain, and chance of a storm", but, it is hot and sunny, with blue skies.
The signposting suggests our planned destination is 5km away, (about three miles), but, whoever measured that must have had an faulty tape measure.
There is a slight grumble of complaint, from up front, as we encounter the first hill, but, as I point out, every up, has a down.
A few more hills later and helpful, supportive comments from my good self, ie "stop complaining and save your breath for peddling", and we are safely sitting in a bar, overlooking the marina, having cool beers and chips.
According to the cycle computer, it is just over seven miles, not thee!, the Runkeeper app, which is probably more accurate, puts it at 6.54 miles, but, whatever, definitely more than three miles!
The rather grand, chateau appearance building, in the photographs, is actually a church, although to me, apart from the religious statues, it does not look very church like.
The highlight of Saturday evening? the Pizza van visits the campsite at 18:30, so, it is pizza and red wine for our evening meal.
Wednesday 17th September 2014 - Thursday 19th September 2014
Off to the dentist with Kathleen, for 10:00am appointment.
All goes smoothly, almost an hour to do a root filling, and make a temporary repair, she will have to get a crown on the tooth, when we get home.
It costs 106Euro, which is about the same as it would have cost at an NHS dentist back in the UK. Not sure if we will get any of that back on our E111. If we do, perhaps the moral of the story is, why not come to France for dental treatment, it may be cheaper!
After lunch, a long walk through the countryside, past this restored Abbey (not open), dating from 1100.
Then ice cream, and a leisurely walk back along the coast.
Thursday. A bit of a hypothetical day. For example, hypothetically, if Kathleen had a grey hair in her head, today would be the day for me to exercise my NVQ skills in the application of hair dye.
So, that is Thursday morning (hypothetically) occupied, hair dyeing, followed by the obligatory hair washing, drying straightening etc.
Amazingly, in the afternoon, Kathleen agrees to go cycling.
Normally after a "hair session" Kathleen would not agree to wear a cycle helmet for at least two days, it must be those uppers she is taking.
A ten mile cycle ride, plus of course, refreshments en-route.
Camping La Venise Verte (N46 18'54" W0 36'33"), an ACSI site, about 1 mile outside of the village of Coulon.
Once it is all nicely pegged out, on the line, we decide to cycle to Magne.
Can this really be true, it is after all, the beginning of October, the weather has been superb.
Le Chene Vert, (The Green Oak) looks promising.
It is Kathleen's turn to pay, well, to be honest, her turn is WELL overdue.
As good as the folding bicycles have proved themselves to be, it is decided we are not going to be cycling tomorrow, so, the scooter is unloaded from the trailer.
It will not last....
