Gien continued...

Wednesday, 28th September 2016

Blue sky and sunshine again this morning.

There are literally hundreds of birds flying along the river. Not sure what kind of bird, some are Herons, readily recognisable, but there are also many which look like Gulls or Terns, plus lots which look like Guillemots, but, we are hundreds of miles from the sea, and I thought Guillemots and Terns were sea birds?.

What ever they are, they are having a field day feeding on, what appears to be, a plentiful supply of fish. They are catching so many, they are dropping some of it, as they fly over the bridge crossing the river.

After yesterday's cycling activities, today, is a riding around on the scooter day.

We go to Briare, via the D951, since we cannot cross the river, using the "Pont du Canal", we have to travel on as far as Chatillon-sur-Loire, where there is a bridge with a 2.7metre height limit, fine on the scooter, but, not in the campervan.

We, eventually, find the Lidl in Briare, and clear the shelves (literally) of Kathleen's current favourite, White Zindanfell Rose. I have previously cleared out the underseat storage area and the top box on the scooter, so, we are able to fill up the space with Wine, Gin, oh, and some food.

The rest of the day is spent washing clothes (Kathleen) and lying about in the Sun (both of us).

A little bit of excitement, right at the end of the day, at 10:00 in the evening, in the pitch black, a British Caravan outfit arrives.

We watch as they try to reverse and park in the dark, with little success, and a few near misses with trees and shrubbery!

Eventually, Kathleen goes out and speaks to them to explain, there is a pitch next to us, where they can simply drive in and leave the car hitched up, until they sort things out, tomorrow, in daylight.

They gratefully accept this idea, and are soon parked, rather than disturbing the neighbours.

We assume, they must be novices, or, that some unforeseen circumstance must have caused them to have arrived so late, and in total darkness, but, the next day as Kathleen interrogates (sorry, chats to) them, it appears, no, they are experienced caravanners, and, the late arrival had been "planned". It certainly was not evident last night.

Thursday, 29th September 2016

Another gloriously sunny day, 25C.

The weather forecast says it is going to be a cool 18C tomorrow, and, raining, but, apart from a breeze developing late in the afternoon, there is no sign of a change in the weather today.

Breakfast over, we cycle along the Loire Cycle Route, north, my plan (not declared to Kathleen of course), is to cycle to Sully-sur-Loire, about 20 miles north of here.

The first four miles or so, are easy going, but, at Saint-Gondon, The cycle route leaves the river bank and goes "cross-country", through very pleasant, but, let us say "undulating terrain", or, as Kathleen would say, "oh no, look at that hill".

We pass through Saint-Florent, and on to Lion-en-Sullias.

At this point, when we have cycled about 11 miles, I break the news of my "plan" to cycle to Sully-sure-Loire, about another 9 miles. 

This is not well received, particularly when the only Bar come breadshop come everything, in Lion-en-Sullias, is closed at 11;45, despite the displayed openning times which clearly state, it should be open.

So, we leave the signposted cycle route and peddle along the quiet D951 to return to Saint-Gondon, where we find a friendly bar where we have beer and "frites". We have a

portion of chips, equivalent to those Kathleen paid 4.50Euro for at the motorway aire, for 2Euro.

Fortified, we rejoin the cycle route and return to Gien, to complete just over18 miles.

We chance upon an Aire, in Saint-Gondon, a large level parking area, near the village centre (and bar), N47 41.993 E2 32.613. There is no signs suggesting there is a fee, there appear to be only waste water and toilet disposal facilities, but space for 8-10 vans. There is only one there as we pass.



   

Gien, Camping Touristique de Gien, Cycling along Loire

Monday, 26th September 2016


A heavy overnight dew, and a cloudy, cool, start to the day, but, by lunch-time, it is 22C sunbathing weather.

Essential foodstuffs are required, so, we have to go shopping.

We have been to Gien before, and, vaguely recall to location of the Lidl, or, we think we do.

We peddle across the bridge, and through the town, but, no Lidl to be found, instead, we find an Auchan, which supplies our needs.

After Auchan, we head for the church, to check Mass times, ready for Sunday.

The church is at the top of a very steep hill. Kathleen is very proud of herself because she managed to cycle all of the way to the top, while I had to get off and walk the last 20 metres or so. My excuse is, I was carrying additional weight (ie 2 litres of milk, some bananas, etc), plus.

On our return, I check with the all knowing Google, sure enough, Lidl WAS where we thought it was, but, it has closed down. 

Not much of a recommendation for Gien, if it cannot even support a discount retailer, like Lidl.

In the afternoon, Kathleen enters into a hair-care session, so, I take my bicycle and explore along the banks of the Loire, to check out the cycle track for Kathleen's proposed outing, tomorrow, weather permitting.

More Brits arrive, as neighbours, so, after cycling / hair washing / hair drying etc, the rest of the afternoon is spent sitting in the sun, chatting and drinking beer. What a hard life.

Tuesday, 27th September 2016

Another sunny day, with temperature at 23C by lunch time.

We cycle along the Loire to Briare, "famous" as the point where two canals (Canal Lateral de Loire and Canal de Briare) meet and cross the River Loire, via a rather grand metal bridge..

There is a cycle track, shown on our tourist map, but, Kathleen opts to follow the (quiet) D951, because it looks more direct.

We do not know it at this point, but, this turns out to be a wise decision.

Briare turns out to be a pretty place, with, of

course, the famous canal bridge.

We stop in the, very pleasant, square, initially, for a refreshing beer, but we succumb to the atmosphere and rumbling stomachs to eventually, decide to have lunch and some cool Rose wine.


We choose from the 12Euro menu, Kathleen has a rather delicious Beef Bourgoine, whilst I select a pork dish.

Mine too is delicious, but, judging from the shape and appearance, it is what we would

call pigs trotters, although Kathleen reckons it was what we would call Pork Hock. 

Delicious anyway.

Kathleen, being her talkative self, after a little drink, has a conversation, in French, with a chap who turns out to be a Russian.

We eventually tear ourselves away from lunch and have a little explore, the church, because it may be where Kathleen has to come to on Sunday, and of course the Marina on the canal, where there is a Campervan Aire.

Here we meet a couple from Carlisle, wandering their way through France, and spend some time swapping Aires and Campsite information.

We also learn that the Newcastle - Amsterdam crossing may be cheaper than we have been lead to believe, they paid "only" £420 return.

Eventually, we make our way back, I convince Kathleen we should use the cycle track.

The cycle track is good, at least there is no traffic to contend with, although Kathleen is not happy on two counts: 

a) it is undulating, unlike the D951, which is flat.

b) it is in the shade of trees, so, no sun tan as you peddle.

At the ten mile mark, we come to a particularly steep incline, which proves that beer, lunch, wine, and hills are not a good mixture.

Then, we come to a section where the cycle track is closed, no apparent reason, just a barrier and a "Route Barre" sign, so, we have to rejoin the road anyway.

Sixteen miles and a good lunch, an enjoyable outing.

  

 

La Clayette, contd.... then, eventually Gien

Saturday, 24th September 2016


Possibly the best weather we have had since arriving here (not that it has been bad up until now!), clear blue sky and 27C.

Much to my surprise, Kathleen suggests jaunt on the scooter, she really is getting into this!

We first ride along to Varenes-sous-Dun, and double check church times for this evening, since, we plan to leave tomorrow morning.

Next, we ride around to a few villages with "interesting" names (ie Saints you have never heard of), which Kathleen has picked out from the tourist map, given to us by the chap who runs the campsite. 

All of the places we go to are rather beautiful, very old, and quaint, every one of them has a functioning church, with doors open. 

But, they all have another thing in common, they do not even have a cafe or bar.

We end our scooter ride with a visit to Chateau de Dree, about 4 kilometers outside La Clayette.

The correct spelling has an accent over the first "e", but, my English keyboard does not do accents.

The Chateau and grounds are very impressive, apparently, bought by some

(very) rich person and restored to their former glory.  

It certainly is beautiful and magnificent, although, I am not sure it would have been worth a visit to Madame Guillotene in 1765 or when ever it was the French had a cull of their Aristocracy.

In the evening, Kathleen cycles to church, in Varennes-sous-Duns.

On our return, we chat to Rodger and Fiona for a short while. Today, they have cycled 40Km.

This, plus a few glasses of Rose, inspires Kathleen to begin talking positively about a cycling holiday, taking the Newcastle -> Amsterdam Ferry. 

I quickly check the distance, Amsterdam to Saverne, just over 400 miles, a trifle ambitious, I will have to think

of somewhere a little nearer. Arnhem, is dismissed, it is only about 80 miles, from Amsterdam.

Google tells me, there is a Canal, Amsterdam to the Rhine, passing through Utrecht, Kathleen is enthusiastic about this (after the second glass). 

I shall have to handle this carefully, it might actually be a "goer"!

Sunday, 25th September 2016


Final (?) farewells to Rodger and Fiona, it looks as if they are about to have another beautiful day, weatherwise, in La Clayette.

They plan to move on to La Charite-sur-Loire, shortly, we do not know it at this point, but, they are soon to be disappointed!

Today, is about to turn into one of our less successful days of this trip. Not a lot goes right, but, all ends well.

We first head to St Satur, Les Portes de Sancerre N47 20'32" E2 51'58", but, neither of us are entirely happy with this site.

First not so good thing to happen, Kathleen suggests a stop for "a sandwich", we find pleasant Aire de Repose (stopping place). There is a Kiosk selling "frites", Kathleen decides we will have some, and, she will pay, 4.50Euro EACH, for chips! A bit steep! 

When we arrive (about 12:30), reception is closed for lunch, until 15:00. There is a code controlled barrier, and no where adequate to park a Campervan (or car/caravan). We manage to squeeze into the "visitors" car park, and have a walk around the site. The facilties leave a lot to be desired. Then we encounter an English couple who arrived just as reception was closing for "lunch". They were admitted, but, not checked-in, now, they cannot get their Electricity to work.

They are thinking of leaving, and going instead to a site they have used before at Charite-sur-Loire. It is, they tell us, a beautiful site, with an interesting town.

This just happens to be the site which Rodger and Fiona are planning to go to next.

Although it means going back, approximately 10 miles, we decide to go there.

It begins to rain, this day is just getting better and better!

We have no co-ordinates or detailed address for the place, and naively assume it will be signposted. 

Big mistake. It is signposted, on very small signs, and, only if you are arriving from the South, we are arriving from the North.

Eventually, courtesy of Google maps, we arrive at Camping de La Saulaie, La Charite-sur-Loire, Quai de La Saulaie, 58400. It is CLOSED. I subsequently checked the website, which says it is open April to September, well, it is September, but, it is closed.

We have no contact details for Rodger and Fiona, so, no way to tell them that their next destination is closed.

So, what to do?

As we sit pondering, the English couple from St Satur arrive, they too are disappointed.

We decide to head for Gien, they are going south, Spain eventually, so, they head for Nevers.

We arrive at Gien, Camping Touristique de Gien N47 40'56" E2 37'23", the sun comes out, the site seems pleasant, things are looking up.

The trip so far.

This portion of the trip in video.

La Clayette

Thursday, 22nd September 2016

A real, autumn morning, a chilly 8C, to start, but warming nicely, as the sun rises above the trees, to reach a very pleasant 25C.

One set of English neighbours leave today, in their caravan, heading home, and, our French neighbour packs her tent and leaves. This would appear to leave just four of us on site, ourselves, plus another couple (Rodger and Fiona) from Portsmouth, in a Campervan.

We at first think, there are no supermarkets here in La Clayette, the ever resourceful Google, tells us there is an Aldi a short distance away, on the edge of town, so, we unload the scooter, from the trailer, and head off there.

Next task, having the scooter off the trailer, is to check out the "alternative" church (with Mass on Saturday evening), in the adjoining village, Varennes-sous-Dun. On our way there, we pass a large "Intermarche Hypermarket", within walking distance of the campsite!

Time for lunch. We cycle to La Clayette, to Restaurant La Belle Epoche, right opposite the Chateau.

We have choices from the set menu's, plus a bottle of red, but the food is good, and plentiful, plus, towards the end of the meal, one of the staff begins to serenade the remaining diners by playing French music, from the turn of the 1900's, on an accordian!

Great lunch!

Of course, we do have to cycle back to the van, followed by falling asleep in the sun.

Friday, 23rd September 2016

Another cool start, followed by a glorious 25C day.

After a little "house work", ie clothes washing, we ride the 19km (12 miles) to Charolles, on the scooter.

Charolles, is an anti-climax, after riding 12 miles to get there. 

It is a very pretty place, but, not actually much there, we did not even find a decent bar!

A very well maintained church, which we visit, in deference to the fact we have parked the scooter in their car-park.

Kathleen enjoyed the ride, apart from a railway crossing which I failed to spot in time, and crossed at 50mph, with a bit of a

thump. I remembered it on the way back. 

Our helmet Inter-Com, has never really been excellent, but, last night, I succumbed and read the instructions, which means today, I was able to listen to Kathleen's instructions as we rode along.

We spend the evening chatting and drinking wine with Rodger and Fiona. They are an interesting pair, approximately nine years older than us, he has had both hips replaced, and, open heart surgery!

Not only are they pottering around France in their Campervan, but, they have been out cycling every day since they arrived here. When they were 70, they cycled from Portsmouth, via Caen, to Switzerland. As I say, an interesting pair.

To La Clayette

Wednesday, 21st September 2016

Today, we leave Tournus and head for a place called La Clayette, only about 50 miles south of here. 

Kathleen has picked it out of the ACSI book, on the basis "the write-up sounds nice", let us hope it is accurate.

First impressions are certainly favourable, as we enter the town, we are greeted with

this view, of a chateau, overlooking a lake.

The campsite, La Clayette, Les Bryeres N46 17'30" E 4 19' 10", also overlooks the lake.

There are very few people at the site, so, we are spoiled for choice as to where to place ourselves.

So far, so good, everything seems in order, and, the sun is shining, it is a pleasant 22C.

A light lunch, then a 4 mile cycle ride along the lake and into town to explore.

 The all important (to Kathleen) church is found, and Mass times are determined.

We pick out a restaurant or two, for possible future lunch-time sessions.

I think this place is quite promising, although, it is a bit "undulating", so, I doubt there will be a lot of cycling done.

But, Kathleen is still enthusiastic to use the scooter, and, there are plenty of nearby towns and villages to visit, including Charolles, of Charollais Beef fame.

The trip, so far.


This part of the trip, in video.

Tournus

Monday, 19th September 2016

Not brilliant weather, but, much better than the last two days. Temperature is a mild 18C, and, most importantly, it is not raining, there is even blue sky showing.

The bicycles are unloaded, and we cycle, first to Lidl and Simply, to get some essential supplies, ie bread, washing up liquid and mushrooms.

Shopping done, we cycle along the banks of the River Soane, in the direction of Chalons.

According to the map, this is part of a cycle

track (Voie Bleu) which goes about 20 miles to Chalons. The surface starts good, ie tarmac, but, then becomes compressed dolomite. To me, it is fine, a little bumpy perhaps, but, it is not upto Kathleen's exacting standards, so, we will not be going 20 miles, that is for sure.

We turn back, after about 4 miles, not having seen another person, either driving, cycling or walking. Naturally, we almost immediately encounter four cyclists!

We return to the van, having cycled a little

over 10 miles in total, enough to blow the cobwebs away, after sitting around for two days.

The rest of today, is to be major "hair care" day. To explain, routine "hair care", requires the resources of a small power station, and takes about 30-45 minutes, "major hair care", requires the resources of a medium size power station, and takes about 1 - 2 hours, minimum.

As I have sometimes said before, in this blog, although most of the time, we are having a great time, sometimes, having to share such a small space, during periods of bad weather can cause, just a little, friction to develop.

Kathleen has a "thing" about crumbs. Apparently, I am the only person who makes crumbs. The latest idea, is to replace the van carpets with carpets of a darker colour, so crumbs will not show. I suggested, what I thought was a better idea:

• instead of vacuuming up the crumbs, collect them and keep them. Take them to a carpet shop and buy a carpet of exactly the same colour as the crumbs. Problem solved.

This was not well received.

In order to stay out of harms way, I busy myself unloading the scooter, with the aid of our Dutch neighbour.

Like just about all Dutch people we have encountered, he speaks good English, and tells me an interesting tale as we unload the scooter. Apparently, contrary to popular belief, regulation of trailers, kit cars, and even street sweeping wagons are much more lax in the UK, than they are in Holland, and, indeed, much of Europe. The Dutch, in particular therefore, if they wish to purchase a trailer, or kit car, travel to the UK, but the item, get all of the official paperwork, to say it is road legal, then take it back to Holland, where, in accordance with free movement of goods legislation, the item is deemed acceptable in Holland. I have no idea if this is true or not, but, presumably, if it is, a nice little earner, is about to be choked off by Brexit!

Tuesday, 20th September 2016

It is dry, cloudy with sunny spells. A cool 16C in the morning. It turns out to be one of those days, where, you frequently think, it may rain, but, in the event, it doesn't, in fact, it turns out quite a pleasant sunny day.

The campsite notice board has a list of markets, nearby.

Now, markets are not really my thing, but, there is a market listed at a place called Cuisery, which is about five miles away, there is a small road to the place, so, it would make a reasonable ride out on the scooter.

It is not too warm so far today, perhaps 16C, so, a day for having the correct "gear" on. We find the place, no problem, but, Cuisery market is a big disappointment, even to me, there are only about eight stalls, one of which is selling fish, so, that is a no-no for Kathleen.

Cuisery appears to be a run-down little place, with an abundance of second-hand book shops, we counted no few than eight of them in one street!

After lunch, we decide to attempt to search out the Voie Bleu again, although, I feel, we were probably on a section of it yesterday, heading in the direction of Chalon. 

Today, it is decided we will cycle in the opposite direction towards Macon.

Sure enough, we encounter a tarmac surfaced cycle track, sign-posted Voie Bleu, and running along the banks of the River Soane.

Kathleen is ecstatic, exactly her kind of cycling, smooth cycle track, no hills.

Macon, is about 25 miles, south, I suggest to Kathleen, perhaps we could cycle there. No chance is the reply, but, working on my usual theory, of "suggest 25 miles, you might get 15-20", I suspect, the seed has been sown.

I adopt my usual ploy, ie, say nothing, as the cycle computer clocks up the miles, and hope Kathleen does not notice. As we approach to 10 mile mark, a stroke of luck, we come to Pont Vaux, a rare bride over the river, this further distracts attention from the mileometer. But, not for long, another mile, and, Kathleen asks the question "so, when were you going to tell me we had done over 10 miles?". You have to be up early in the morning, to catch Kathleen out!

We cycle as far as a small town called Fleurville, where we stop for a refreshing beer, before retracing our route, to do just over 22 miles in total.

Although it is not in our edition of the Aires de France book, for anyone who may pass this way, there is an aire at Tournus, it is just along the road from the campsite, by the river, and within easy walking distance of the town centre. There are marked out spaces for about 8-10 vans, plus a small "overflow" area, and a service point. The co-ordinates for Aire Tournus are N46.567600 E4.910646.

We plan to move on tomorrow, so, the evening is spent loading the scooter and bicycles on the trailer.

If all goes according to plan, we will only be travelling some 40-50 miles, to La Clayette.

Plombieres-Les-Bains to Tournus

Saturday, 17th September 2016

A truly dismal morning. We are high up here, so, I am not sure if we have mist, or low cloud, but, either way, everywhere is soaking wet, and, there is a steady drizzle.

Someone (ie me) failed to put the "outdoor" chairs away last night, so, they are soaking wet.

Kathleen insists, she did "tell" me to put the chairs away, but, I point out that she did not, she hinted that it might be a good idea to put the chairs away. As I have told Kathleen many times, men do not do hints! Instead of "it might be a good idea to put the chairs away", just say "we have finished using the chairs, will you put them away?". Clear an unambiguous.

We did have vague plans of perhaps staying here for another day or even two, but, given the dismal weather and the distance we are out of Plombieres-les-Bains, we decide to stick to Plan A, use this place as a stop-over, and head for Tournus.

When we passed through Plombieres-Les-Bains on the way here, the Sat-Nav took us along wide avenues, for some reason, going the other way, it takes us down impossibly narrow streets, with parked cars all over the place.



The rain continues off and on, all 150 miles to Tournus, where we arrive at Camping Tournus (N45 34'25" E4 54'34", an ACSI site, 17Euro/night. The site is on the banks of the River Soane, and, promises to be very pleasant, if only the sun shines!, but, for today, it rains, and it rains and it rains! 

It certainly is popular, there are many vans here as we arrive, and numerous more arrive after us, mostly Dutch. I assume it is a site which people "know", because it is not easy to find, we have not seen a single signpost to the place, and even when you are almost at the entrance, it is not obvious. Before actually finding the site, we have a nice little tour of the river bank along a single track road, courtesy of the Sat-Nav.

The journey, as it unfolds.

This part of the trip, in video.


Sunday, 18th September 2016

The rain continues, in fact, worse if anything!

I believe the French description to be "il pleat comme cache qui pisse".

Yesterday, a family arrived on bicycles. Mother, Father and two small children. The children are travelling in a trailer, towed behind the Father's bicycle.

They are staying in this small tent.

This morning, they were happily sitting under the cover rigged up outside of their tent, eating breakfast, as the rain poured down around them.

After breakfast, they packed up their gear and cycled off in the rain.

Now, THAT is camping!

But, a little deluge of biblical proportions will not deter Kathleen from going to Mass on Sunday, so, we walk into Tournus, and Kathleen attends Mass at St Philibert's, whilst I have "Chocolate chaude" and read a very expensive (4.50Euro) Daily Telegraph, in a nearby cafe.

Saverne, Plombieres-les-Bains

Thursday, 15th September 2016

It could not last, just as the weather forecast said it would, hot sunshine comes to an end. Cloudy and a cool 20C, with a stiff breeze and then, eventually, in the afternoon rain.

A last ride out on the scooter, amazingly, at Kathleen's request, she is REALLY getting into this "bike chick" thing!

Trailer all packed up with bikes, scooter, ready for our departure tomorrow.

Friday, 16th September 2016

Cloudy and cool as we leave Saverne, and then, steady rain as we travel South.

We have taken a novel approach today, we checked out, and even discussed, the route, using Sat-Nav, Map, and Google. 

We chose the Google Maps prefered route, no problems, peace and harmony all the way.

The rain stops and the sun emerges as we arrive at Au Fraiteaux, Plombieres-les-Bains/Ruaux, N47 57'55" E6 24'59". The sunshine does not last however, by evening, it is pouring with rain.

Au Fraiteaux is an ASCI site, 15Euro / night.

We pass through Plombieres-les-Bains, en-route to the campsite. It is a Harrogate (North Yorkshire) look alike, very pleasant.

The site is in a village (Ruaux) approximately 4km outside of Plombieres-les-Bains, definitely not cycling country, as far as Kathleen is concerned, there are very big hills!

Ruaux is a pleasant, sleepy little place, but, the only shop, bar, cafe, appear to be at the campsite. The only functioning "service" in the village appears to be a very well kept church.

The jury is out (ie, that translates as "Kathleen has not decided"), as to, if we stay here more than overnight. If we do, the scooter will have to be pressed into service to get around.

The "main" street of the village, is decorated with bunting, suggesting that some event has just taken place, or, is about to take place. Given the lack of any shops, bars or cafes, it is difficult to imagine what form such an event will take!





The journey, as it unfolds

This portion of the trip, in video.