To La Ferte Beauharnais, and then to Neufchatel-en-Bray

Tuesday 25th April 2017

For the first time in several weeks, we wake up to find the sun is most definitely not shining! Dull, grey sky, and a rather chilly 7C. The sun struggles to break through in the course of the morning, but, never quite makes it. By 16:00, it is raining steadily.

Kathleen's plan of leaving the Aire at St Priest Taurion, before breakfast, and then break our journey at the first service area we come to on the A20, to have breakfast, may be a very good plan, but, it is thwarted by an accident on the A20, which has closed the northbound carriageway for several junctions.

After a diversion of some 10-15 miles, which is extremely busy, with all of the traffic off the A20, we eventually come to a grinding halt, about two miles from the point at which we can rejoin the A20, the hold up appears to be just sheer volume of traffic.

Kathleen leaps into action, to prove that she is more use than the sat-nav, and we take a detour, off the ring road, which is traffic bound, through the centre of a small town, and emerge at the entry point to the A20, having "queue jumped" a couple of miles of standing traffic.

We have an Aire chosen for tonight, it is one I got of the Facebook, Autotrail Owners Group, at a place called Mennetou-sur-Cher.. 

Neither us, or our sat-nav could find a way to access the supposed parking spot, the bridge over the canal was only had a width limit of 2 metres and a weight limit of 2 tonnes, we are 2.2metres and 3.650 tonnes. There may be a way, but, we could not find it.

We head on, for our "fall back" option, La Ferte Beauharnais (N47 32.655' E1 50.937').

This Aire, is on the edge of the village, adjacent to the village fishing lake. I am sure, on a sunny day, it will be a delightful spot, but, when we arrive, it is raining steadily!

Despite the rain, it is popular, by 18:30 there are five vans there.

Although the Aire is just off the road, there is little traffic, and it is pleasantly quiet for a good nights sleep.




Wednesday 26th April 2017

The weather forecast says rain for La Ferte Beauhamais today, so, it is a pleasant surprise to find it is just cold (5C) and dull.

In the course of the day, we have occasional glimpses of sunshine, but, the temperature never struggles above 10C, and, by the time we reach Rouen, we have alternating hail and sleet!

We had originally planned to fit in another stop, at an Aire, which had been recommended to us by Motorhoming friends John and Carol. 

The Aire is near Rouen.

Given the weather, we decide to give that a miss and head straight for Camping St Claire, (N49.73781 E1.42803) at Neufchatel-en-Bray.

Camping St Claire is one of our favourite stops, the owner keeps the place absolutely pristine, and, it is only 15Euro per night (it used to be 12Euro, when we first started coming here ten years ago).

If the weather is kind, there is an excellent cycle route, and, it is a relatively short (20 minute) walk into town.

The added advantage is it's proximity to Calais, only a little over 100 miles, and, there is a selection of supermarkets for last minute wine hoarding, and, diesel fill up.

So, it makes an excellent last stop, before Calais or Dunkirk.

The weather has improved, from hail and sleet at Rouen to Sunshine and showers, but a cool 8C, at Neufchatel-en-Bray. 

Kathleen has spent the journey shouting at the sat-nav, because it did not calculate precisely the route she would have done, although, in fairness: 

• it did follow the major roads Kathleen would have taken (N154 etc)
• it took us through Rouen on a new (and better route) to our usual

Once we are here, Kathleen cannot resist a clothes washing frenzy, so that she does not have have to take home dirty washing.

To St Priest Taurion

Monday 24th April 2017

An early start, for 160 miles to our next stop, an Aire at St Priest Taurion (N45 53.172’ E1 23.785’). 

There are minimum facilities, just the basic waste disposal facilities, but, it is an idyllic spot, on the banks of the River Taurion. 

The Aire is located in the Municipal Sports Ground, for the village (how do they afford to have such facilities?).

There is one Dutch Van there when we arrive, another (French) van turns up later, so, three of us with enough space for probably 10-15.

The lady from the Dutch van is very friendly, we learn she is a Freelance Fitness Instructor, and, Kathleen gets some free exercise tips, which pleases her.

We visit the Village Bar/Cafe and manage to talk French, all be it, not very well, to the owners teenage daughter. She at least pretends to understand us!

Moissac, haircare day!

Sunday 23rd April 2017

Another brilliant day, blue sky, 24C.

The original "plan" was to leave here today, but, it is so pleasant here, we have decided to stay for an extra day.

This does pose a slight problem, today is scheduled to be Kathleen's "hair-care day".

Normally, it has been decreed, on a "hair-care" day, we MUST be a full facility site (ie EHU, copious amounts of hot water, correctly sized and position wash basins, suitable mirrors), but, we are on an Aire, the hair-care process is going to have to be done, using the facilities within the van.

The good news is, it all goes without a hitch, Kathleen even declares it a positive success.

Of course, it was not Kathleen who had to carry 100 litres of water, from the tap, and fill the onboard tank, nor was it Kathleen who had to carry 100 litres of waste water to the disposal point. 

It is possible to drive the van to the service point and fill/empty water, but, that would have meant driving the van with Kathleen in the middle of the hair washing routine, something told me, suggesting this, was not wise.

Maybe, I should have been born an Aquarius, instead of a Libra?

Moissac, Cycling

Friday 21st April 2017

Sunny, blue sky, 20C.

Today is spent cycling along the Canal Lateral de Garonne, in the direction of Castelsarrasin, about 5 miles away, then another 5 miles beyond that, to make a twenty mile round trip, through beautiful countryside.

Saturday, 22nd April 2017.

Blue sky, 25C.

We are enjoying it here so much, we decide to stay another day.

This decision disrupts the Church plan, so, we head off on the scooter to find the Convent Misercordia, where there is a mass on Saturday evening. We find the place no problem, and, the nun on Reception duties is amazingly helpful, even giving us a mini tour of the building! So, that is Kathleen sorted.

We spend the rest of the day cycling along the Canal (22 miles), in the opposite direction to yesterday.

We go as far as Valence en Agen, where there is this amazing fountain, outside of the bar, where we were forced to stop for a cooling beer.

I spend the evening in Bar Compestelle. I make use of my French a la Michel Thomas, to ask for "encore biere, s'il vous plait", only for the bar man to say "un autre biere", which according to Michel, is incorrect!

Either way, I received another beer.

Kathleen does the Church bit.

Exploring Moissac

Thursday, 20th April 2017

Just to remind us, we are not in Spain, but, in the Tarn Region of France, and, it is only mid-April, the morning starts sunny, but, decidedly cool at only 12C, but, by late morning, the temperature is improving, and we have a pleasant 20C day.

The campsite, Le Moulin du Bidounet, is, I would suspect, an ex-municipal site, I say that, because, it is "functional", ie, every thing is clean, and works, but, it is not "comfortable". 

Yesterday, in the evening, we chanced upon a Motorhome Aire, (N44 5' 55" E1 5' 36") just across the river from the Campsite, and nearer to the town of Moissac. 

It has a good level surface, EHU, and usual services, for 7Euro per day, we decide to move there.

It is all automated, with a Debit/Credit card check-in system, operating an entry/exit barrier, with instructions in French and English.

Once "settled in", we set off on foot, to

explore the town of Moissac.

Moissac turns out to be a rather pretty place. It is on both the River Tarn, and, the Canal Lateral de Garonne.

The long distance cycle track, Les Deux Mers (the two seas), passes through here, not that I think we will have time to do very much of that, on this trip.

Moissac is also on one of the many Pilgrim Routes, running through France, to Santiago de Compestela, in Spain.

There is a very impressive Abbey, which, according to the information boards was founded in the year 600, although the existing building is more recent, dating from the 1100's (recent!).

Not being at all Religious, it is the sheer scale of these old churches which impresses me, and the number of manhours which must have gone into building them and decorating them. This one is no exception, one of the things I notice, is the walls are covered in what looks like wallpaper, to modern eyes, but, it is in fact a repetitive pattern hand painted onto the plastered surface. Given the size of the building, it must have taken hundreds if not thousands of manhours to complete.

Having satisfied our culture requirements for the day (or year even), we head off in search of lunch, which we find in a very pleasant cafe on the square at the from of the Abbey.

Whilst in the Abbey, Kathleen has acquired a list of mass times for the coming weekend.

There is a slight problem, in that the mass at the Abbey, is not until 11:00 on Sunday, the day we will be leaving Moissac. There are two other places (in Moissac) listed as having Mass at more suitable times, but, try as we might, we cannot find either of them.

The problem is solved when we go exploring, in the evening, on the scooter, and find an alternative Church at a small village called Sainte Livrade, which has both a suitable parking area for the van plus trailer, and, a mass at 9:30 Sunday.

We also find a Lidl, selling Kathleen's favourite Rose Wine (White Zindanfel), I am not sure which she is most pleased about. 

To Moissac,

Wednesday, 19th April 2017

A cool 10C start to the day, we are not used to this!

We are soon on our way, just as the sun begins to shine over the hills and bring a bit of warmth to the day.

An easy 110 miles today, to Moissac, on the River Tarn.

We have left the mountains behind now, a mixture of flat plateau and rolling hills with roads that must have been built by the Romans, arrow straight! 

Our destination, Moissac, Le Moulin du Bidounet (N44 5'47" E1 5'21"), an ASCI Campsite, on an island in the River Tarn, just outside the town of Moissac.

In true French style, reception is closed, for lunch (ie 12:30 - 15:30), so, we have to wait to get in.

The French know how to relax!

We have a three mile stroll in the evening, after two days of sitting on our rear ends, we need a little exercise.

Begin the Journey, slowly, home

Tuesday, 18th April 2017

The forecast for Benicassim today is 22C and sunny. Although we leave just after 8:00, before the sun is fully above the hills, no reason to suppose it will be wrong.

But, we are heading slowly home, starting today. 

North along the coast, towards Peniscola, the only problem is that Spanish road building is ahead of our Sat-Nav map updates, and, the N340 is no longer as our SatNav thinks it is, roundabouts have disappeared, to be replaced by fly-overs and new exits.

We therefore have to guess the point at which we turn off to head inland toward Leida.

But, just as with our experience on our way here, the traffic is generally light, and, the roads excellent.

The plan is to stop just short of the Bielsa Tunnel, at Bielsa Town, but, we are there way ahead of schedule, and decide to keep going, through the tunnel, to our alternative stopping off point, St Lary Soulan, in France.

The approach to the tunnel is mostly good quality road, although some sections are a bit uneven, presumably due to wear and tear from the heavy wagons.

The scenery is quite stunning.

The tunnel itself is an anti-climax, contrary to what I had read on the internet, from various sources, the road surface is good, the tunnel well lit, if a bit narrow.

There were no signs to explain why, but, for some reason, they were only allowing the traffic through in short bursts, and, one way at a time.

The descent on the French side, is, either scenic, or scary, depending on your point of view.

I have video, but, not enough data band width to upload it at present, a snapshot, showing one of the many hairpin bends, will have to do for now.

Tunnel and descent.

I have to admit, drops of several hundred feet, with no safety barrier, and, a distinct smell of hot brake pads, is shall we say, exciting.

We eventually arrive, after 290 miles, at the Aire at St Lary Soulan (N42 49.348' E0 19.397'), our stopping place for the night.

Compared to the temperatures we have been used to for the past few weeks, it is distinctly cool, at only 14C.

We even have to have the heating on in the morning. 

Bonterra Park, Benicassim, Spain (14/04/17 - 17/04/17)

Friday, 14th April 2017

The Easter weather gremlin continues. Coast is shrouded in mist, until about 11:00, but, then the sun burns it's way through, and we have blue sky with a few fluffy white clouds and a scorching 25C.

One of our shorter circular cycle rides (11.5miles), brings us to well over 80 miles for the week. Kathleen is now contemplating going for the 100!

Kathleen goes to church in the evening, since it is Good Friday.

Later, when I go to pick her up, on the scooter, we notice various statues etc are being assembled outside of the church.

We attempt to ask one of the people arranging them, at what time something is likely to happen.

Ten o'clock (in the evening, we are told.

So, we defy the laws on Pensioners being out after 19:00, and head to the town at 21:30.

Sure enough, there is an enormous parade of religious statues.

There are many, many people taking part, some dressed in what, to me, appear rather sinister costumes, reminiscent of the Klan, but, clearly, these costumes must predate that dreadful organisation.

There are at least two marching bands, one consisting entirely of drums, and the other, a brass band. 

Saturday, 15th April 2017

Sun, blue sky, with light cloud, and 23C.

I did say that I thought Kathleen would decide to go for the 100 miles, and sure enough, we do a cycle ride along the coast, which brings us 103 miles for the week.

There is a Music Festival on, at present, in Benicassim. There is a massive temporary campsite, and, the Festival Site is on the edge of town, with shuttle busses provided to take people to the site.

In addition, it would appear, there is live music at some of the bars/cafes.

It would seem it it is free.

The photographs are of a bar called Rock Cafe, near Cafe Vincente, which, we have never seen open, for the past six weeks, but, today, it is buzzing!

Sunday, 16th April 2017

Sun, blue sky, with light cloud, and 23C.

A short cycle ride, followed by chores (we have to prepare for departure), washing, hair washing etc.

Monday, 17th April 2017

Another day of Easter Gremlins for the weather. The forecast says is will be Sun 22C, but, the reality is cloudy, windy and 19C, with a definite threat of rain.

The sun manages to shine for a few hours, but, then, in the evening the rain comes, although, just a shower.

There is a wholesale exodus of the noisy Spanish, to be replaced by more, quieter, Spanish.

Scooter, bicycles etc all loaded.