South West across Germany to the Rhine

Monday 23rd September 2013

Heading toward the Rhine or Moselle, not quite decided yet.

First stop is Gottingen, a very pleasant town, is our first impression..

We stay on a stellplatze. Badeparadies Eiswiese (N51 31'23" E9 55'46"). Very nice it is too. Almost empty when we arrive, but, by 17:00 almost full, as you can see.

We meet yet another couple of New Zealanders (France and Cynthia), who are now living in the UK, but, spend most of their time roaming Europe in a Campervan. France is of Dutch extraction, but went to New Zealand as a baby, with his parents. He thus has the luxury(?) of New Zealand, Dutch and EU citizenship.

A very pleasant evening, drinking red wine and comparing notes on the places we have visited.

Tuesday 24th September 2013

Kathleen is not feeling too well today, cold type bug symptoms, but, being a woman, she will not just stay in and keep warm and comfortable. As a dutiful husband, I cycle to the supermarket and buy her a bottle of whisky, so, she can have hot lemonade and whisky drinks.

We spend the day exploring Gottingen, by bicycle. This is all very enjoyable, cycle tracks everywhere. The cycle tracks even have traffic lights to control the flow!

I realise that Kathleen is probably not cut out for life here. Everyone abides by the rules, waits for the "little green man" before crossing the road etc, waiting is not really Kathleen's forte. The problem is, the local population obey the rules, and, assume everyone else will, so, when you get a "wild card" potential disaster beckons.

Wednesday 25th September 2013.

Mundane tasks have to be attended to, ie clothes washing etc,so, we head for a campsite.

Back to Eschwege, Knaus Campingpark (N51 11’ 29” E10 10’ 7”).

All washing done, and lunch over, we spend the afternoon, cycling around the lake, drinking beer in the sunshine, before cycling around the lake again, just for the hell of it. 

It is warm and sunny, but, autumn is definitely here, as can be seen from the colours of the leaves on the trees.











Thursday 26th September 2013.

We arrive Geisenheim, Am Campingplatz 1, (N49 58' 45" E7 57' 27"), an ACSI site.

We get a spot right on the banks of the Rhine.

Once parked, we cycle into Rudesheim, for a late lunch.

Rudesheim is a stopping off point for the river cruise boats which ply the Rhine, so, is a rather busy place, but, still very pretty, if you get away from the river front street.

Berlin

Saturday 21st September 2013.

We get the bus into Berlin centre. I am given the task of memorising the bus stop, where we get on, so we can find our way back.

I understand the logic. If the task is given to me, and it goes wrong, ie, we get lost, it is my fault.

I carefully study the information at the bus stop. I know we are in an area called Spandau, and, there is a sign on the bus stop reading "Rathaus - Spandau", I know this translates as Town Hall, Spandau. Quite reasonably, I think, I conclude this stop is at the townhall, Spandau. I am a little puzzled that I cannot see any large building which may resemble a Town Hall, but, hey, you cannot have everything.

The bus (M45), arrives, as expected, we board, pay our fare and take our seats. The bus sets off, stopping here and there, as buses do. After 5-10 minutes, we stop outside of a large and impressive building, which is clearly, Spandau Town Hall. This means of course, wherever we got on, it was not "Rathuas - Spandau". I decide to keep this bit of information to myself, and worry about it on the way back.

In due course we arrive at the Zoo on the edge of Tiergarten. I am given the task of reading the street map, and trying to keep Kathleen under control as she walks off in various directions at double time.

We manage to take-in the Willem Memorial Cathedral, mostly a ruin (bombed in 1943) and in the process of being restored. There is quite a sobering exhibition of the futility of war.

I manage to keep Kathleen on track, and we walk through Tiergarten, to the "Victory Monument". I am not sure which victory this commemorates, clearly not 1918 or 1945.

I jest of course, the Germans may have lost the (don't mention the) war,but, they certainly won the peace, this place is magnificent. There is success showing everywhere you look. Everything just works! 

Next we come to a memorial erected by the former USSR, to the two thousand Russian soldiers who died in June 1945, during the final days of Berlin's resistance.

There cannot ever be a good time to be killed I suppose, but, fancy getting killed when it was just about all over, talk about bad luck!

Next, we wander along to the Brandenburgh Gate. A memorable sight, from many a cold war spy film, but, I thought, not nearly as impressive in real life as it appears in films.

Basically, it is not as big as I imagined it would be. What is impressive is the quality of the restoration, from photographs taken after the fall of Berlin, this area was a heap of rubble, you would never know it now.

Through the Brandenburgh Gate, and you are into what was, until some 25 or so years

ago, East Berlin of course. All very nasty at the time, but, I think it is all a bit tacky now.

There is no doubt however, they are certainly laughing about is now, people dressed as border guards, etc etc.

Plus one person dressed (I think) as a character out of Star Wars. I am not sure what point he or she is trying to make, well, there is at least one in every major city I suppose.

Inevitably there are people driving around in restored Trabant cars, the ultimate joke of the Soviet system. 

Finally, a very novel bar, where you can sit on your bar stool, drinking your beer, and peddle to get your exercise! The bar is propelled around the streets by the efforts of the drinkers, I am not sure who, if anyone is steering however!

We take in the restored Parliament building, and then wander to Potsdam Platz, via the memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe.

At Potsdam Platz, there are some bits of the infamous Berlin Wall, not in their original state, or original situation, but as exhibits from the past.

We stroll some more, in the autumn sunshine, and come across a canal, with this definately "uncity like" view. 

As we wander past pavement bars, we notice everyone is drinking enormous glasses of beer.

We have to have one, and take a seat to have a drink and be entertained, by this chap doing hand stands on a skateboard, followed by an acrobat and a very young boy, playing the clarinet.

One last thing to do, before catching the bus back to the stellplatze, have a Bratwurst.

I cannot convince Kathleen to join me, so, she amuses herself taking a photograph of this very simple, but, effective public toilet (for men), and women who can pee standing up.






We board the bus, and, I have to now own up, I do not know where to get off. We have to wait until we reach the "Rathaus", and then take a guess at the appropriate stop, the fact I am writing this, tells you, we made it.

I redeem myself by finding the nearest Catholic Church, via Google.

It is not far (about 2.5km, the sat-nav tells us), but, we have no idea in which direction, and, since the sat-nav is built into the van, we cannot take it with us.

Google maps to the rescue, and we are able to get both a walking route and a cycling route.

Sunday 22nd September 2013.

 It is dry and mild, so, it is decided, we will cycle to the church. It is a mixture of dedicated cycletrack and on road cycle lane, so, not difficult at all.

Working on the off chance that I am wrong, and there is a god, and, he is a Catholic, I do hope he will take note of the efforts I have gone to, to get one of his flock (Kathleen) to church, no matter where we are.

While Kathleen does the church thing, I have a wander of the surrounding streets, a combination of looking for interesting sights, and checking out likely eating places for our lunch.

The plan is to have a little gentle exercise (walking or cycling) after Mass, followed by Sunday Lunch (although, I doubt it will be Roast beef and Yorkshire pudding).

We are still in Spandua district, but, this area is the "old town", at least I think that is what the term "altstadt" means.

There is a river or canal at the end of the street, with a busy lock.

There are also some rather quaint buildings which according to the signs on them date back to the 1700's.

Kathleen duly emerges from church at 11:00, too early to eat, and it is decided, we will cycle for an hour or so, to sharpen our appetite.


We head to the lock, and then cycle along the river, we think we are heading in the

direction of Berlin Centre, but, since we have no map, the strategy is to keep the River in view, so we do not get lost.

Suitably hungry, park our bicycles and have a very enjoyable lunch.

We walk a little to allow lunch to settle, then head for a coffee and cake shop, to drink delicious coffee and devour enormous portions of cake.



The Stellplatze is on the site of a former barracks. There is a large building next to the site, which we assume was the barracks, and, which now appears to be used as flats. As we arrive back, we are greeted by a very enthusiastic group of some 8 or so children, aged not more than 10 years, waving from one of the windows.

Kathleen waves back. This turns out to be a mistake. Before we can blink, we are surrounded by them. From their appearance, they are immigrants, they are fascinated by our folding bicycles. They speak a little English and in addition to introducing themselves, ask for a ride on the bicycles. We oblige, and two at a time, all 8 of them have a turn at whizzing around the site. Some are not too steady at riding a bicycle, Kathleen is concerned they will injure themselves (or someone else!). We discover while they can speak enough English to ask for a turn, they do not appear to understand "be careful" or "Ok, that is enough". Kathleen eventually coaxes them off the bicycles with biscuits all round.

Once they have demolished the biscuits, they run around the site, playing hide and seek, and, as far as we can see, doing no harm, just being children.

But later in the afternoon, there is some form of upset, and eventually, the Police are called. Kathleen's German is not up to understanding what is going on and we are not brought into the discussion, nor are we ejected from the site, so, I assume it is not us who have caused the upset by indulging them. A mystery.

Arrive at Berlin

Friday 20th September 2013. We leave, the plan being to make another stop over, between here and Berlin.

Berlin is approximately 230 miles away, so, we plan to stop off about halfway.

We head for a Stellplatz, featured in the German Stellplatz book. The place is called Brachwitz, near Halle.

What a place to find! We leave the excellent tarmac road, and travel about three miles along a narrow, cobblestone road.

Then we arrive at a ferry across a (not very wide) river. The ferry is just a sort of flat platform which shuttles back and forth across the river. 

Kathleen has visions of a Jeremy Clarkson (Top Gear) episode, where they ferried their cars across a river on a home made raft.

The chap who operates the ferry takes four euros for the crossing, and gives Kathleen instructions (in German), on how to find the Stellplatz. The only word I understand is "links" (ie left).

After several turning around adventures, we find the place. There are no other vans there, and, apart from a few houses, there is nothing there.

We decide to head for our second choice, about 20 miles further on, in the direction of Berlin. We find this with no difficulty, but, it is a Campervan Garage, there is no Stellplatz there.

We cut our losses and head for our third choice, this turns out to be a rather shabby lorry parking area.

We are not having much luck!

We eat lunch and decide to simply head for Berlin, it is another 90 miles or so.

We were advised by the English couple we met several days ago to use the Berlin-Spandau Stellplatz. In the book, there are two of course. We choose the one which is described as best for public transport to the city centre (Reisemobilhafen Berlin, N52 33' 12" E13 12'2"). The sat-nav takes us there effortlessly, apart from the pouring rain!

The Road to Berlin

Sunday 15^th September 2013

Leave home, raining, windy, cold, makes you pleased you are going really.

The plan is to have a Sunday Lunch en-route. Being an organised individual, otherwise known as a nerd, I look up several possible places on the internet. Not a very successful venture. We choose one (the Jolly Wagonner, Ardley, Hertfordshire), because we are reasonably near there, at about the time we are about the faint from hunger (ie about 14:00 on Sunday).

The sat nav takes us there, with some false starts, and some rather narrow country lanes, only to find they stopped serving Sunday Lunch, despite the fact that their website says they serve from 12:00 – 19:00.

Undeterred, we find an alternative, “The Bull”, in a village called Cottered, very pleasant Sunday lunch.

As we approach Dover, the weather has become even worse, strong winds and driving rain. The ferries are running late, so, at 19:30, we are boarding the 18:00 sailing, which deposits us in Dunkirk at 21:30 (22:30 French time).

Kathleen surpasses herself by navigating us to Gravelines Aire, in the dark, without the sat-nav or a map. We will never hear the last of this feat.

Monday morning dawns clear and sunny, and we set off for Charlesville de Meziers. Apart from some heavy traffic, on the outskirts of Lille, a completely uneventful drive.

The Aire at Charlesville de Meziers is full, so, we have to use the adjacent campsite (Camping Mount Olympus ).

We have time for a walk into town, and a beer, before the rain starts.

Tuesday morning, still damp and chilly, no, make that cold. We make a leisurely departure. East to Sedan, then north into Belgium, and then east through the Ardennes region of Belgium, into Luxemburg. How I love all of this “open borders” stuff in Europe, no hold ups, no passports to be checked, no customs, travel as it should be.

Soon, we are in Germany, arriving at our next stop, just south of Koblenz, on the banks of the Rhine, at a very picturesque place called Braubach (N50 16’ 11” E7 38’ 50”). This is a Stellplatz, German style, electric hook up, shower, toilets, etc, all beautifully kept, for 7 Euro/night.  

We are there early enough to get a riverside spot. I was never really aware of being nautically inclined, but, I love to watch boats or ships coming and going. Here, I have a ringside seat as Rhine Cruise boats and barges sail past at regular intervals. I think it is the wanderlust in me.

Pity the sun is not shining.

We are parked next to a very flash Concorde Motorhome, about the size of a small bus! It turns out, the lady of the outfit was born in South Shields. Is there no escape? In the course of out chat, we get useful pointers on where to stay in Berlin.

Wednesday 18^th September 2013. It is pouring with rain. So, pretty as it is here, if you cannot get out and enjoy it for the rain, there is not much point in sitting here. So, we head off for Kassel.

Kathleen has picked out a Stellplatze, which is (according to the book) a Country and Western Music venue, sounds interesting. According to photographs in the book, it all looks very "authentic", wild west style. But, when we arrive, it turns out to be a rather dilapidated farm, no other campervans in sight, a couple of old cars chocked up on bricks, and a very battered caravan. We decide against staying!

We move on to the second choice, still in Kassel, another Stellplatze. Rather more appealing, but, almost campsite prices (ie 12.50Euro, plus 50 cents Kw/Hr for electricity). So, we decide we may as well go to a campsite. We push on for another 35 miles (well maybe 40 after we have fallen foul of the tricky German double exits, yet again).

We arrive at Eschwege, Knaus Campingpark (N51 11’ 29” E10 10’ 7”), an ASCI site, so, 16 Euro gets us all facilities. The rain stops, the sun comes out to give us a very pleasant evening.

Thursday 19th September 2103.

One of those crucial days, hair washing, straightening etc, I stay out of the way for a couple of hours. It has only taken me 25 years to learn that is the wisest course of action.

It is dry and mild, with a little sun, so, we have a walk into the pretty town of Eschwege.

Very German, but, just the kind of town I like, not too many clothes shops to stand outside of whilst Kathleen looks at exactly the same things she could buy back in the UK, but, plenty of places with cakes, coffee, bars, and food.

I buy a Vodaphone (Germany) SIM, so I can get on the Internet, then find somewhere for lunch.

What a hard life this is.

Thursday 6th June 2013 - Tuesday 11th June 2013

Marboue (N48 6.744' E1 19.722'). Another Aire. Toilets and emptying facilities for free, but Electricity and Water are chargeable (Electricity 2Euro for 55 minutes, extortion!). There is space for about ten vans, and, by evening it is full. Not surprising really, it is a very pleasant spot, on the banks of the River Loir and off the busy main road (N10).

It is here, I find, the helpful French people at Uzerche did not do the internet registration correctly, so, I have no internet. I try the French couple parked next to us. They fiddle about with it, but, seem to think it has not worked.

I cycle the 2 miles back down the road to McDonalds, to use their Wifi to do my essential banking transaction.

When I get back, I fiddle around some more with the Orange SIM card, suddenly, it works, problem is, I do not know what I did to make it work!

Turns out, that was a false alarm, still not working!

An early start on Friday (well 09:00), and we are in Neufchatel-en-Bray by lunch time, for our regular stop over at Camping St Clair.

This place just gets better and better, but, the downside of that is, it is becoming very popular. A queue of campervans and caravans waiting to check in when we arrive!

We will have to stop recommending the place!

I find my Orange-France SIM card is not working after all, this is beginning to be very irritating!

Fortunately, there is an Orange Shop in the town, and the problem is soon sorted. It would appear you cannot register a top up from a non-French telephone number.

Only a one night stay, we linger until just before lunch time and then we are on our way towards Calais.

Picnic, French motorway Aire style.

Toilets, plenty of parking, neatly mown grass, no litter, picnic tables provided, and, sunshine of course.

But, the French do not get everything right... we arrive at Gravelines to find it is almost empty, clearly levelling a charge of 6Euro per night, with no facilities except parking has driven people away.

A lesson to Politicians everywhere, if you drive up the price, you do not necessarily increase the income!

We amuse ourselves by watching the street entertainment from a pavement bar. 

Next morning, the plan is to have breakfast as we wait in the boarding queue for "Le Shuttle", but, we are whisked onto an earlier train, before we have even had time to have breakfast!

Once in Dover, it is a short, and almost traffic free (well it is only 8:00 Sunday morning!) drive to the Caravan and Camping Club site at St Neots, to meet up with Gary, Susana and Gabriel.

Here are the "boys", it was both Gary, and Gabriel's birthday, a few days ago (June 2nd and 3rd respectively), so, this is a belated "birthday meeting", plus, Gabriel and Susana plan to return to Baku with Gary next weekend.

Our last chance to see them for a while.

Gabriel has grown a lot since I last saw him, and his talking has come on leaps and bounds (in both English and Spanish).

He is currently fascinated by spiders and their webs.

Here he is studying a spider in it's web, you can just see the spider above and to the left of his right eyebrow!

We visit Cambridge, and take the obligatory trip in a punt, but, not even a family of swans can keep Gabriel awake!

Tuesday 4th June 2013 - Thursday 6th June 2013

Our very pleasant elderly French neighbour departs this morning. Unfortunately, we do not speak enough French to have a meaningful conversation, but, it would appear, she is travelling around France alone, in a very elderly Renault van conversion. Full marks to her!

Kathleen indulges in an orgy of clothes washing, which in turn keeps me busy fetching and carrying water, putting up clothes line etc.

I discover, there is a Pizza restaurant and take-away in the town!

After lunch, we cycle along the cycle track from the Aire.

The countryside is quite beautiful, aided by the fact it is a sunny day.

Although the cycle track / footpath is an old railway line, it goes steadily uphill, and for a railway line, the gradient is quite steep.


I mention to Kathleen that, steam

engines must have struggled up this gradient. Her answer "yes, well, this 66 year old is struggling up this gradient too!".

Something tells me, I am going to have difficulty coaxing Kathleen into doing ten miles along this route.

I am quick like that.

But, trading on Kathleen's love for

numbers and order, I manage to coax 6.5 miles along the route, by the simple expedient of only telling her how far we have gone, when we are just at a part number (eg 4.5, 5.5 etc), this works until 6.5, but, no further.

We reach an idyllic little place called Saint-Jal.

Here, there is a Campsite or Aire, I am not sure, the place was deserted, but, there are Electric Hook up points, Toilets, Showers, and refuse disposal. Saint-Jal (N45.399168 E1.645556).

Sadly, there is not a little bar selling cold beer (or Rose).

Kathleen's only reward for peddling 6.5 miles, uphill, in the heat of the afternoon, on a rather bumpy cycle track, without a word of complaint, is a drink of water, whilst taking in the view.

Followed of course, by 6.5 miles of more or less freewheeling, back down

the track, to the Aire at Uzerche.

While Kathleen rests with a cold beer or two, and sunbathes, I decide to top up my Orange-France "Lets Go" internet. I manage the procedure at the Tabac, without too much difficulty. But, dealing with the automated process (in French of course) of registering my top-up, defeats me.

Fortunately some French Campervanners, on the Aire, understand enough of my Pigeon French, to do the deed on my behalf, at least, we both hope they have!

Turns out, they have not. I ask you, if even French people cannot understand the automated telephone service used to register the top up, how do they expect me to?

Wednesday, we leave, and still heading north drive to LHommaize (N46 26.101' E0 35.811').

This is a pleasant little Aire, behind the Town Hall and just far enough off the busy N147 to be quiet.

There is space for about 10 vans, but, only two Electric Hookup points (unmetered), with water and usual emptying facilities (all free).

There are also cared for toilets in the main square, and a very novel "bio toilet" in the nearby children's play park, complete with diagram of how it all works. Kathleen cannot resist using it. I am getting worried, she is becoming obsessed with toilets, even worse than her sister, Joan.

We have a little explore of the village, and spot this rather pink house!

The person who lives there, just has to be a fan of Barbie dolls!

Needless, to say, there is an imposing church, every French village seems to have one, along with a well cared for Town Hall.

As we return from supporting the local businesses (ie the local bar), we are joined by another English couple, in a campervan, so, we will have company for the evening.

Thursday, off and away, bright and early. We are aiming to be just south of Chartres for our next stop.

It is another beautiful sunny day, the journey is painless, apart from ploughing through Tours.

We are heading for an Aire at Marboue (N48 6.744' E1 19.722') , but, for future reference, we pass several Aires as we travel along the N147 and N10.










 

Saturday 1st June 2013 - Monday 3rd June 2013

Weather is dismal, blowing a gale as we leave Trebes.

On to Salles sur L’Hers (N43 17.533' E1 47.233'). An Aire with two unmetered Electric points,

Fresh Water and usual waste disposal.

We are initially the only van there, but, we are soon joined by four  French vans. A nice quiet spot, adjacent to the Sports Stadium (how can a tiny French village support a sports stadium with floodlit Football field, Basket Ball court, Tennis Court, and a two story club house?)

There is a little plaque on the Service

Point, telling you, the facilities are free, and asking you in turn, to support the local businesses.

We did our bit, but, the only place which was open was the Village Bar/cafe.

Sunday morning, Kathleen goes to church, whilst I continue to support the village bar/cafe, and make use of their free wifi to attempt to contact son, Gary, on Skype, to wish him happy birthday.

 After church, we are on our way north again.

A very pleasant drive, mostly along the N113, which runs alongside the Canal di Midi for a lot of the way, past Toulouse and on to just outside Cahors.

 Arcabal (N44 27.412' E1 30.966'), approximately 5 miles outside Cahors. A pleasant spot, beside the Marie (Town Hall).

Weather has improved, it is summer again!

Plenty to do, if you feel  energetic, boules courts, tennis courts, basket ball court, children's play area, plus of course a football field.

Usual services for waste, fresh water, and electricity (2Euro for one hour, not very attractive!). There is a tap, but, we are uncertain of the waters provenance. Some French boule players drink it. Later, Kathleen points a passing German cyclist in the direction of the tap, when he is looking for water. Everyone seems to survive the experience.

Amazingly, given we are right next to the Town Hall, there is no Wifi signal, so, a trip to the McDonalds in Cahors is necessary, to make my Skype call to Gary.

Monday, north again, to Uzerche (N45 25.471' E1 33.968').

This is a real find.

Space for 20 vans, but, by evening there are 22 in there!

There are free electric hook ups, 40 according to the Aires Guide. I did not count them, but, unless you have a very long hook up cable, you may, like us, have to share. No problem however, a very kind elderly French lady (in an equally elderly van), very kindly offered

to share a hook up point with us. We will just have to hope that both she and Kathleen do not want to use their hairdryers at the same time.

The aire is on the site of the former Railway Station (long ago closed by a French version of Dr Beeching). The station building houses toilets, unisex of course, as the French do.

The former railway line, is now a gravelled footpath / cycle track, heading off in two directions, so, weather permitting that is tomorrows entertainment.

The town of Uzerche (at least the old part), is a revelation, beautifully preserved buildings, some dating back to the 1100's ! 

The only disappointment is, we had planned to have Pizza this evening (either take away or eat-in), but, there does not appear to be a Pizza shop!

There is, however, a very nice square, with a Bar-Tabac.

Unfortunately, my Orange-France SIM card lets me down, my Skype call to grandson, Gabriel, to see him on his 3rd birthday, is such a poor connection, we get no video, and precious little sound!

The other disaster of the day, is, our toilet in the van is broken.

The problem is with the Cassette. The Orange-France connection is at least

good enough to allow me to download instructions and DIY "how to fix it" tips from the Thetford website.

I learn enough to know, I am not going to be able to fix it until we get home, and I can buy spare parts.