Saturday 25th May 2013 - Tuesday 28th May 2013

Collioure, Camping Les Almondiers continued.....

Saturday, and Kathleen is washing her hair. The site's "Frenchness" ie shabby chic, has been a plus point, but, there is no hot water in the hand basins, the novelty has worn off!

The recommendations of the French Lady we met in Valencia count for nothing.

I decide to walk into the town (Collioure) to buy some bread.

It is a beautiful little place, so, I assume the French Ladies recommendations were more to do with the town, than the actual campsite.

Bread bought, I fail in my second task, ie to find the church, but, I do explore enough to be pretty sure there is an easier way to get to town than walking along the road.

After lunch, we set off again, and sure enough, just to the left as you approach the town, there are a flight of steps, alongside some houses, which provide a short cut into town.

The route jiggles about a little, but, basically, is not difficult to find, if you remember you just have to keep heading down hill.

This is much shorter, prettier, and quieter, than the route I took this morning, which simply followed the main road into town.

We do our exploring, find the church, establish the time for Mass (18:00 Sunday).

By chance, we meet our Scottish neighbours, who, earlier, had set off on their first ever ride on their new Yamaha motor scooter. Obviously, they survived the experience.

We then retire to a café on the harbour, to sit in the sun, savouring a glass or two of Rose Wine.

This is what I love about France!

We return to the site, to find, there have been lots of new arrivals since we left to go to town, the place is bursting at the seams!

On our way back, I cannot resist this road sign, one especially for our

friends "The Cricks" (aka Bryan and Joan).

Third place name down, it must be their summer residence.

Church, when we find it, is right on the waters edge, so, that is Kathleen's venue for !8:00 on Sunday evening.

Usually we would have lunch out on Sunday, but, given the late time for Church on Sunday, this event is postponed to Monday, when we have an excellent lunch (marred only by Kathleen's complaints, that a litre of Rose is too much at lunch time, I thought it washed the Moules down a treat).

Tuesday, we leave Collioure, but, not before checking out the Aire nearby. The Aire (N43 46.733' E6 43.997') is excellent, 10Euro/24 hours, but, that includes Electricity, and Toilets, plus usual services, and there is a shuttle bus to the town.

Next, we check out Port Vendres, about 4 miles South, another good Aire (N42 31.063' E3 6.815'), 5.50Euro/night, no electric, but has Toilets. On edge of town, near the harbour, but, unfortunately, no view of the harbour.

Finally, we arrive an Narbonne, or, to be more precise La Narbonette, an Aire with Electric Hook up, about five minutes easy walk from the centre of Narbonne.

Very organised. Not cheap at 7Euro/24 hours, plus an extra 2Euro for Water/Chemical Toilet Emptying.

As we arrive, the heavens open, I get soaked, just opening the barrier to get in! (Kathleen cannot do it, her hair may frizz).

Tuesday 21st May 2013 - Friday 24th May 2013

Tuesday, enroute again, past Tarragona and on to Sitges, just a little south of Barcelona.

Sitges, El Garroter (N41 14'1" E1 46'52").

When we arrive, it is sunny, but, it is obvious, there has been significant rainfall here, recently.

We are soon greeted by a pessimistic caravanner from Bournemouth. It has been raining for days he tells us, Cold as well, worst spring in Europe for ten years. It is going to be like that until at least Friday. Have we heard about all of the break-ins further south .... etc etc

Fortunately, I am rescued by a summons from Kathleen, lunch is ready, before I have finished fashioning the noose.

From the campsite, it is a short walk to the coast.

Wednesday, Kathleen is admonished by the Campsite "Guardian" for putting a washing line between two trees, (it was me who put the line up, obviously), and hanging her washing out.

Our pessimistic neighbour saves the day, by loaning her, his clothes dryer rack.

After lunch, we explore the full length of the beach area of Sitges, it is very smart, to the point of looking more like the South of France, than Spain.

It is one of the few (perhaps even the only) place in Spain, where  we have been, where everything looks clean and finished off!

Needless to say, after such a long stroll, it is necessary to have a refreshing Gin and Tonic.

As we wander through the old town, (me looking for a cash machine), Kathleen is given the "soft sell" by the proprietor of a Beauty Salon.

He has a few good lines, starting with "what beautiful eyes you have, you shouldn't hide them behind sunglasses".

Good try, I would say, but, not enough to extract 50Euro from Kathleen for the "Dead Sea Salt Treatment". She beats him down to 15Euro, and then does not buy it anyway!

When we get back to the Campsite, a lone motorcyclist arrived. It turns out, he is 74 years old! His journey this year has taken him on a circular route, Calais to Biarritz, south to Spain to Gibraltar, now, heading back north again. He has ridden 500 miles today alone. Some people really are amazing!

Thursday, cycling along the coast, rounded off with lunch in Sitges, finishing with Brandy and Cointreau.

I know when it is time to call it a day, when Kathleen (telling me about her plans to visit a Bodega, we have been to before), gets the words mixed up, and says she wants to visit a Bordello, which is a very different kind of establishment.

Friday, and we head for St Pere d'Pescadore, but, when we arrive we find

St Pere d’ Pescadore, is very busy, German contingent of wind surfers.

The weather is cool and very windy, so, the decision is taken to skip this one and head for France.

We pause for lunch, then drive the additional 50 miles into France, to Collioure, Camping Les Almondiers (N42 31’53” E3 4’18”). An ASCII site, at 16 Euro/night.

This was a recommendation from a French lady, who Kathleen was chatting to in Valencia.

Not quite what we were expecting, from the description. Very French (ie quirky), in a secluded valley, opening onto a small bay with beach. Everything is there, but, nothing is where you would expect it to be. For a start Reception is at the furthest point from the entrance gate!

Thursday 16th May 2013 - Monday 20th May 2013

Valencia, Pinedo, Coll Vert (N39 23'47" W0 19' 58")...continued......

Thursday, we skip the historic buildings bit, and cycle the whole of the Jardines del Turia Park.

It is amazingly well organised, with a cycle track circling the whole park. They even have speed "cameras" for bicycles!

Kathleen is being a good cyclist and keeping within the speed limit, as the smiley face shows!

I even get a photograph of the purple blossom on the trees.








Sunday, so, it is "going to church day".

We cycle into Valencia, where there is a Mass at the Cathederal, every hour on Sunday Mornings, clearly, either no shortage of Catholic Priests here, or, they work longer hours.

I am told, it is Pentecost Sunday, which might explain the hectic "goings on" in Valencia.

First we emerge from the Turia Park, at the Royal Bridge, to find, we cannot cross the road into the city centre, because there is a Valencian version of the Great North Run going on. Much to Kathleen's irritation, we must go back down the ramp to the park, and back up another ramp, on the other side of the road. 

We soon notice, in addition to the run, there are several women, and men, dressed in rather exotic traditional costumes.

While Kathleen is at church, I wander the streets and manage this rather poor photgraph of some of them.

In a square near the church, there are literally hundreds of tables and chairs set out, along with a couple of

childrens bouncy castles, and some VERY loud music.

This is presumably going to be a mammoth Paella cooking and eating party, this group are setting up to begin cooking giant paella in the street.

When Kathleen emerges from church, we wander among the crowds for a while, before cycling back to the campsite.

Enroute, we stop off for a beer or two. Two major achievements occur, first, I convince Kathleen to try one of the "snacks" on offer, she agrees to try "Patatas Bravas", if I can order it without the Mayonnaise, I cannot get her to try the Calamary, so, I am forced to eat that all to myself. The second achievement, is, I manage to speak to the waitress, in Spanish, and obtain Patatas Bravas, without mayonnaise.

Leave Valencia and head North (on our way slowly home now), toward Peniscola.

We have chosen two possible Aires from the Spain and Portugal Aires book, La Moreras (N40 23.398’ E0 24.607’), and La  Mersera (N40 23.876’ E0 24.758’), both in Peniscola, within half a mile of each other, and, both are closed, defunct.

In addition, the approach to La Moreras is more suited to a 4x4, than a campervan!.

Not to worry, there are other Aires signposted, and we end up at Viz Mar, Peniscola (N40 23’32” E0 24’25”), 10Euro a night including Electric, toilets, showers etc, or 6Euro per night, no electric. This is a sort of Aire, attached to a campsite. It is not clear to me what the difference is between the Aire and the Campsite (which is in the ACSI book).

The campsite is only about 50 yards from an excellent cycle track, which takes you onto the promenade at Peniscola.

At one end is an old castle, which, presumably was the original Peniscola, ie, before tourism.

Six miles north, and the promenade is still going on, although, not quite finished at this point!

So, that gives more than 12 miles of easy cycling!

In the evening, our Belgian neighbour gives an impromptu Spanish Guitar recital, in between barbequing the evening meal, for himself and his wife.

When commenting on Campsites, or Aires, people often remark on things like traffic noise, church bells, etc.

Well, let me tell you, a Donkey in the field next to the campsite is a big turn off.

They make an incredibly annoying noise!

You have been warned!

Monday 13th May 2013 - Wednesday 15th May 2013

Monday, leave Gandia, and drive the 50 miles or so to Valencia.

Valencia, Pinedo, Coll Vert (N39 23'47" W0 19' 58"), is extremely well placed for visiting Valencia, you can cycle there, on a dedicated cycle track (about 4 miles), or, get the bus from just outside the campsite.

Tuesday, it is raining when we wake up!

But, by the time breakfast is over, the sun is out again, and off we go to Valencia on our bicycles.

First along the beach, then past the container port, we are soon in the "Jardin del Turia".

This area of Valencia is amazing.

It was formerly the course of the River Turia. But, after several disasterous floods, the river was diverted, (in the 1960's or thereabouts), and the old river bed, which cuts through the middle of the city, has been converted into a park area.

At the end nearest the sea, they have built many enormous modern buildings, including an enormous aquarium.

The area is laid out with footpaths and cycletracks, plus, water features and fountains.

All very people friendly, although, personally, I prefer the park area, which is criss crossed with bridges,

from the days when it was a river.

The traffic passes above, while you can make your way right through the heart of the city, either on foot, or on a bicycle.

It is not really what I would call a "formal" park, although it is kept very neat and tidy, considering it's city centre location.

There are some quite stunning displays of flowers.

Also, some rather impressive displays of trees in bloom, spring is clearly the best time to see them.

But, you will have to take my word for it, because, I omitted to take a photograph.

Another feature, which we have seen

in other parts of Spain, is the provision of free exercise equipment, for public use, in the parks, and even in the streets.

Kathleen cannot resist having a go.

These areas appear to much used, but do not appear to be abused or vandalised, as you would expect in the UK.

Of course, given that Valencia dates back to Roman times, there is an "old quarter".

Not much evidence of Roman buildings, that I am aware of, but, lots of the narrow streets and courtyards which I believe are a legacy of the Moors.

There is of course, an impressive Cathederal, which incorporates parts of an earlier Mosque.

The Germans might have paid for all of the smart new buildings, with their Euro, but, I think the inside of the Cathederal must have been paid for by the Aztecs and Incas, when the

Spaniards plundered the "New World".

We stop for lunch, and Kathleen, not the most adventerous person when it comes to trying different food, is very pleased to learn that her choice (Tortilla con patatas, or Spanish Omelete as we would call it), is actually included in the list of Tapas, so, now she can say, she has eaten at least one Tapa!

Tuesday ends with a thunderstorm, but, not before we make it back to the van!

The area we are staying in is called "l'albufera Natural Park". There is a large salt water lagoon, just a short distance away. It is, if my memory of "Google Facts" is correct, the second largest lake in Spain.

Wednesday, we cycle to El Palmar, on the shore of the lagoon.

It is a town which seems to consist of houses, lots of restaurants, (and I mean lots, there are streets of them) and one shop.

The building which once appears to have been the church, is now, yes, you guessed, a restaurant!

We cycle back, to complete 14 miles, just before the rain and thunder starts again!

Fortunately, it is gone as quickly as it came, and the sun is soon shining again.

Friday 10th May 2013 - Sunday 13th May 2013

Grua de Gandia, l'Alqueria (N38 59'10" W0 9'49")... continued...

Friday, we need to replentish our food and drink stocks, so a bit of a frantic day, for some... riding the mile and a half to Lidl, and carrying the shopping back on my bicycle, then of course, it all has to be put away, so exhausting, in this heat.

Something I have not metioned, mainly because I have been unable to get any photographs so far, but, there are lots and lots of sparrows here, far more than we are used to seeing at home.

It is spring of course, nesting time, and there are lots of chicks still being fed by their mothers, even although the chick is big enough to fly.

The chick follows the mother around, making cheeping noises and sort of fluttering it's wings in a pathetic way, until, the mother relents and feeds it.

There is one particular (male) adult bird, which I have christened as a Sparrow version of a benefit scrounger.

Even although he is fully grown, and has his adult plumage, he follows adult females around, fluttering the wings and making the cheeping sounds, in the hope they will feed him.

Just like the human version, he appears to be perfectly healthy and capable of fending for himself, but, it would appear, he prefers to freeload. Sometimes he gets fed, but, sometimes the bird he is pestering for food, appears to loose patience, and chase him.

Never seen anything like this before.

The weekend, brings another spate of what we assume are "stag parties". Groups of young men turn up, with one of them wandering around dressed in a form of fancy dress. Usually, they are dressed as a woman, but last weekend, there was one in a Superman outfit, and this weekend one in a Chicken Costume, with a live hen to accompany him. Despite what you might expect, they are polite and not troublesome.

Sunday, we have a 17.5 mile cycle ride, exploring various cycle routes, inland, via a "natural" park area and then along the coast.

There are lots of people out and about, enjoying the sunshine.

We stop off for a very pleasant lunch.

Yes, that is Kathleen, having a Gin and Tonic in a glass the size of your average goldfish bowl.

Monday 6th May 2013 - Thursday 9th May 2013

Grua de Gandia, l'Alqueria (N38 59'10" W0 9'49")... continued...

Monday is a chores day, clothes washing, well I suppose it cannot all be fun.

Our English neighbours are washing too, they are posh and have a little "camping twin tub".

Aren't women amazing, give them a sink, some hot water, and some dirty clothes and they will play for hours quite happily.

Food shopping, and Washing done, we head off for a walk (and a beer or two) along the promenade.

Life really is just so hard, But, we struggle by.

The most excitement today occurs when the chap from the Dutch Campervan near us, gets himself locked in the shower! The site maintenace team are summoned by his wife and are soon on hand to release him.

Tuesday dawns overcast, what a disappointment, but, as the day wears on, not only does the sun reappear, but it becomes hotter than ever. We explore to the end of Gandia Promenade, on our bicycles, 3 miles of excellent promenade, backed by, almost empty, clean, sandy, beach. Like South Shields, with sun.

Wednesday, we cycle to Oliva via the coast route, staying clear of any Orange Groves, to find out where we went wrong on Sunday, more miles and miles of beautiful, well kept promenade and clean sandy beach.

I know it is not PC to talk about our Muslim brothers, but, sometimes, you have to admit, they may have a bit of a valid grumble about their treatment in the past at the hands of the Catholic Church.

Wandering around the old part of Gandia, and came across a Catholic Church, with, this explanation of its origins.

First they build a church, on top of their mosque. Then, even after they have agreed to convert to Christianity, and donated to the church building fund, they get kicked out anyway.

Not sure what the European Court of Human Rights would have had to say about that.

Friday 3rd May 2013 - Sunday 5th May 2013

El Berro, Alhama de Murcia, Sierra Espuna continued...

It is beautiful here, but, a combination of anxieties on Kathleen's part (she is anxious about having to drive back down to civilisation, and in case I have another "Cordoba episode", when we are in such a remote area), mean it is decided we will not stay here.

I do not have any photographs of the drive, I did threaten Kathleen with either taking the photographs, or, driving the van whilst I took the photographs, but, nothing would induce her to stop holding onto the seat with both hands.

Quite what good that would have done, if we had gone over the drop, is beyond me.

So, Friday, we arrive at Grua de Gandia, l'Alqueria (N38 59'10" W0 9'49"), another ASCI site.

This is a large site, on the edge of town, and about 1 km from the sea. It was one of the "recommendations" collected by Kathleen from people we have met on our travels.

It is a very "Spanish" site, not many foreigners here, one other Brit, a couple of German Vans and a couple of French Vans.

We have English "neighbours", Alan and Glenise. Glenise certainly has a remarkable story to tell, two knee replacements done at the same time, and a hip replacement which dislocated shortly after the operation and had to be corrected. All of this in the past 12 months, and she is here riding about on a bicycle. You have to admire some peoples positive outlook and determination not to give in!

It is hair washing day, so I am typing this whilst waiting for completion, then, we are going to the Saturday Market, cannot wait, I am so excited.

The Saturday market has lots and lots of Handbag, Scarves, and Clothes stalls, and, no Beer tent, so, that is a 1/10.

Gandia "old" town is very pleasant, nice squares and pavement bars, just about makes up for being dragged around the market.

Church for Kathleen has been dispensed with on Saturday evening.

So, Sunday, we cycle to a town called Oliva, about eight miles south, along an excellent cycle track.

I suspect the cycle track is an old railway line, nice and level through Orange Groves.

Oliva, the town is quite a lively place, with an "old" quarter of narrow winding streets, as well as a more modern part with wide avenues.

We make our way to the beach, and the marina, here we find another ASCI campsite, much more upmarket that where we are it is called Kiko Park, Oliva (N38 55'58", W0 5' 51"), worth remembering for future reference.

While nosing around the campsite, we meet an English couple, who explain how to get to the Marina Restaurant, and how to cycle back to Gandia via the Coast (more of this later).

First, lunch at the Marina, very pleasant it is too, spoiled only by Kathleen's insistence on having only one glass of Red Wine, instead of a bottle, on the basis, we have to ride our bicycles back to Gandia.

It was 8 miles here (to Oliva), and we have done another couple to find the beach and Marina, so, we have done 10 miles so far.

After lunch, we set off to follow the directions to return via the coast route. Let us just say, it does not go as planned. Kathleen loses patience (how unusual), and asks directions. It turns out, the lady she asks is from Latvia, but, living in Spain, and she kindly drives slowly so, we can follow her out of the maze of lanes in the Orange Plantation!.

We return to Gandia having cycled 24 miles, so, that is 8 miles there, 14 miles back!

Kathleen is resolved to never again listen to directions for an alternative route!