Spring 2013, Destination Portugal

Sunday 17th March 2013

We leave home in moderately good weather, but, it only lasts as far south as Yorkshire.

Soon it is raining.

We stop off at Huntingdon for Sunday lunch, at a place called the "Old Bridge Inn". I had found it on the internet, and new it was going to be pricey. But, what the hell I thought, you only live once. Pricey is a bit of an understatement £42 for Sunday lunch for two, just one course, a pint of bitter and a half shandy. I don't know about only live once, I think we will be only going there once!

As we pass Newark, would you believe they are holding a cycle race on the main A1!

They must have a death wish, cars etc hurtling past at 70mph, and nothing to protect the cyclists.

The weather only gets worse, sleet, then snow.

Despite the weather, we arrive at the Tunnel early, we are booked on the 18:20 train, but, we are there in time to be switched to the 17:20 train.

Sitting in the line waiting to board, we see a new word on the information board. The train is delayed by a few minutes to 17:28, but, the information board reads "Train retimed to 17:28". Retimed, I suppose it sounds better than delayed. I did not know that Euro Tunnel had employed Peter Mandleson.

We spend the night at Gravelines aire (N50 59.310' E2 07.363'). Not nearly as busy as usual, lots of empty spaces.

Monday 18th March 2013

It rained all night, and is still raining when we leave.

South on the A16, towards Abberville, leave the motorway, at the point the toll starts, no point paying to do 60mph, you can do that for free on the "N" roads.

Kathleen has retired the Tomtom, for the day, because she is bored and fancies map reading. It makes a nice change for me too, instead of getting instructions like "turn left in 300 metres", I now get, "you should have turned left 300 metres ago, you will have to turn around".

We negotiate Rouen, right first time, and stop for lunch at Pont de l'Arche. We knew there was a Municipal Campsite there, but, there is a small Aire too, we found. Marked out spaces for four vans, what looks like a free electric hook up, and a service point.

As we head south the unremitting rain and sleet do ease off a little, we even get a brief spell of sunshine, which allows Kathleen to wear her sunglasses, for the first time since Yorkshire. It does not last long.

It is decided, tonight, we must have electricity. Kathleen is concerned about using too much of our gas, in case we run out before our 12 weeks are over. So, despite checking out a couple of promising Aires at Cloyes Sur Le Loir (N47 59.512' E1 13.936') and Vouvray (N47 24.549' E000 47.812'), we actually go to:

La Ville-aux-Dames, Les Acacias (N47 24'7" E0 46'48")

from the ACSI book. We have been here before, about five years ago, it has apparently changed management since then, and is better for it.

Free wifi, hence the blog update, but, we find the signal is not good enough to sustain a Skype conversation.

Whitbarrow Holiday Village - Penrith 16th February - 23 February 2013

16th February 2013.

This is not one of our Campervan outings.

We are staying at Whitbarrow Holiday Village, near Penrith, Cumbria, for a week, courtesy of Gary and Susana.

First impressions are very favourable, there is no reason why we should expect otherwise, we have previously stayed at a similar place, with Gary, Susana and Gabriel, near Bude, Devon, and it was equally impressive.

This time there is just the two of us, and we have a studio apartment in the main building, which also houses the Reception area, Swimming Pool, Sauna, Gym, Restaurant and Bar.

Our apartment consists of a living area, with

- seating area
- TV
- Radio
- DVD player

We are on the first floor, so, we have a French Doors, leading onto a small balcony with seats and a table.

The weather is fine and sunning, so, I think there will be some wine drinking on the Balcony in the course of the next week!

Our view looks out over the front of the main building.

Enough of the fun, back to the practicalities, we also have a  kitchen area with fridge, freezer, dish washer, hob, microwave and sink, plus a dining area, sleeping area and of course a bathroom.

Sunday, 17th February 2013

Looks like it is going to be a nice day.

Being Sunday, that means Church for Kathleen. We drive into Penrith so Kathleen can go to the Catholic Church there.

Meanwhile, I explore the town, check out the likely eating places, and look for any other "interesting" things.

To be honest, there is not a lot to Penrith, but, it is a fairly pleasant little town, one of those places you pass frequently, but seldom stop at.

I did learn one interesting little thing about Penrith. It is one of the few settlements in the UK, which was not founded by a water source. In the 14th century, local monks diverted a small nearby river to provide an adequate supply of water to the the growing town. This was particularly necessary since the local industries, including leather tanning, used a lot of water, and created significant polution. Amazing what you learn, just by wandering about isn't it?

After a good Sunday lunch, it was back to Whitbarrow, to exercise off some of the pounds, by walking in the grounds on such a nice day.

Monday, 18th February 2013

Another fine and sunny day, although a little cold. We are being lucky with the weather so far.

We drive to Glenridding on Ullswater, and take the steamer to Howtown.

A bit exhorbitant in my opinion, £3 to park, and, £6.80 each, one way, to Howtown, no concessions for Pensioners, how dare they?

But, I suppose, I should not complain, with views like this, not bad for £16 and a bit of effort is it really?

The walk back from Howtown to Glenridding is approximately 6.5 undulating miles, and is beautifully scenic, indeed the walk book describes it as "one of the Lake Districts finest walks".

Despite the fact that a number of other walkers got off the ferry with us at Howtown, the walk was not crowded. As each pair set off at their own pace, they were all soon dispersed over the length of the walk.

You do not pass any potential eating places, you need to be prepared and bring your lunch with you!

This is not a "hard" walk, the walk book describes it as "moderate", but, we are a bit out of condition, so, a dip in the pool, a Sauna and a spell in the Jacuzzi eases our aching muscles on our return.

Tuesday, 19th February 2013

Another crisp, dry and bright day, we head back to Glenridding.

Today, having "broken ourselves in" gently with a lakeside walk yesterday, we decide on a slightly more strenuous walk.

To be fair, this walk is only 3.5 miles, and is described in the book as "easy". Hmm, this leaves only three possibilities:

a) we are totally unfit.
b) We did the wrong walk.
c) The book is wrong.

We park at the steamer quay in Genridding and walk up an eastern valley of Helvellyn toward Red Tarn.

Yes, that figure in the distance is Kathleen, striding on ahead.

It is a magnificent sunny winters day, crisp, cold, and dry, this is quite strenuous, but, on a day like today, the views are stunning.

You would hardly know it now, but once Greenside had one of the most profitable Lead Mines in the North of England. It was in production from the mid 18th century to the mid 20th century.

Some of the former mine buildings have been converted to Hostel style accomodation for visitors.

yes, that is Kathleen again, always in the lead, even although I have the map and instructions!

Wednesday, 20th February 2013

After yesterdays rather strenuous efforts, we settle for the easier but no less beautiful Wordsworth Walk around Grasmere and Rydal Water.

Described as "moderate" and 4.5 miles by the walk book, I would say that is a fair assessment. In our case, we probably did at least an extra mile because of parking problems, even in February.

We have done this walk many times before, but, it is no less enjoyable for that.

For all it is a walk around two lakes, it does have some quite steep climbs, just to get your blood circulating!

Part of the route is a supposed "coffin route", ie, a route used to carry the dead for burial in the nearest church. Personally, I think it would have been easier to build another (nearer) church, than to lug a coffin along this path!

Thursday, 21st February 2013

Dodd Wood and Bassenthwaite.

A walk from a different book, which does not give ratings such as "easy", "moderate" etc. This walk is relatively short at 1.5 miles. It involves a steep climb at the very start, followed by a gradual descent, a short rapid descent, followed by a walk through meadows.

The walk starts at Mirehouse carpark, and climbs steeply into the woods, before running along a ledge parallel to the road below with views over Bassenthwaite where the trees thin enough to allow this.

The walk is meant for a lazy summers day, and in fairness, the book does say that. Today is bright and sunny, but with a bitterly cold east wind.

Walking through the woods is sheltered from the wind, but, is also in the shadow, so the ground is still frozen hard.

Soon we are in meadows by the lake shore, and we come to a church, stuck absolutely in the middle of nowhere!

This is St Braga's Church, dating back to the 12th century. It is the village church for Basenthwaite Village, which is some 3 miles away! They must have been envisaging a very large church yard when they built this, is all I can say!

Easy (but cold!) walking along the lake shore to Mire House, which, if you like that kind of thing, you can visit, for an extra charge of course.

We settle for admiring the snow drops.




Friday, 22nd February 2013

We have had a very good run of weather, but, today, our luck has run out, very cold with snow flurries and an overcast sky.

It is decided we will go to Carlisle, the nearest town of any size.

What is the fascination with women and shopping?

At least it was indoors, dry and moderately warm, Kathleen bought something, (a pair of shorts, in preparation for our next campervan trip) so  everyone (?) was happy.

I will settle for pointing out that, we took the "obvious" route there, ie out onto the M6 and north to Carlisle. On the return, mainly because we were parked to the south west of the town centre and we wanted to avoid the town centre traffic, we followed a much smaller road courtesy of the Sat-Nav, much shorter, and almost traffic free, before we know it, we are back at Greystoke, and then Whitbarrow.

Saturday, 23rd February 2013.

Home again, heavy snow falling as we pass Newcastle on the Western By-pass, when will winter end?

But, we have had a wonderful week, thank you Gary, Susana and Gabriel.

Thursday 27th September 2012 - Sunday 30th September 2012

Stenay continued,

The area around the aire is quite pretty, but, the rest of the town has seen better days.

Normally, we see few if any Brits, but, here today, there are no fewer than five British vans, all taking up the prime spaces, next to the canal.

Note, I said British, not English, in deference to our Scots neighbours.

Thursday, and it is still pouring with rain!

One of our diversions under these conditions, a drink in a cafe, is ruled out, because the cafe is closed, in fact it is for sale.

As you can see, we are reduced to trying to take interesting photographs, using the limited settings on our point and click camera!.




Friday, the rain has diminished to just being heavy.

We set off for Catillon sur Sambre, an aire we have used before.

It is quite an attractive spot, but has space for only about 4 vans, so clearly space is at a premium. When we arrive, one English and two French vans are already in residence. 


The weather improves, with the sun putting in an appearance.

Within 15 minutes of our arrival, who should turn up but, Mack & Josie yet again, but, we have bagged the last available space and there is already (what we believe to be) a French van hovering.

The (supposed) Frenchman and his wife, continue to hover, we consider the possibility, we are taking up more than our "share" of space. After much deliberation, I think I know how to say (in French) that perhaps, if I moved over a bit, and the French van next to me also moved over a bit, they could squeeze in.

It turns out, they are English, living in France, and speaking only marginally more French than me! Plus, they are not intending to stay, just to have their lunch and charge their laptop from the electric hookup.

Having tried to be helpful, I cannot extricate myself from what turns out to be one of the most talkative English men I have ever met, I am almost fainting from hunger since it is well past lunch time.

The English pair in a French van depart, then one of the other French vans decides to leave.

Almost immediately, another English van arrives, Phil and Noula. We set off investigate if there is somewhere serving meals in the evening. Nothing doing, so we settle for a drink in the bar

Saturday, we set off for our final stop of this trip, via couple of supermarkets in order to do final wine shopping.

Gravelines, is well populated as usual, being probably the best "overnight" spot before catching the Ferry or Tunnel.

This year, the French have started charging 6Euro, for what used to be a free stop. A bit rich, since there is nothing provided except a space on the quayside.

On the brightside, there are a selection of bars and cafes, and, according to Google, a church, with Saturday evening Mass, so Kathleen is able to attend.

Although I have never seen it in the UK, in several European Countries, it is not unusual to have beggars at the church door, so, I pass my time waiting have a discussion (in a mixture of French and English), with the resident beggar on his opinion of the state of the French economy. He tells me, he is forced to sleep rough and has not been able to find work for ten years. I must say, although he is shabily dressed, he is remarkably well groomed for a rough sleeper. He is not a fan of the enlarged EEC, presumably because (as it has in the UK), it has created competition for jobs from East Europeans.

Kathleen indulges in the "Sun Set Photographs".

You will note, I have still not worked out how to "turn them around", in the blog!

Sunday, up early, off to the tunnel, again disappointed with the lack of "smoothness", lots of waiting around. Perhaps, Sunday is not the best day to travel, since it is "maintenance day".

Sunday 22nd September 2012 - Wednesday 26th September 2012

Charmes, continued

Mack and Josie have decided to leave, we are in the process of saying goodbye, when (yet another) pair of Scots turn up, Glen and Mary, it turns out they live about 10 miles from Mack and Josie.

We leave the four of them chatting, while we head off on our bicycles.

We cycle eight miles along the canal (Canal d’Est), which runs alongside the River Moselle.

It is easy cycling, and quite pleasant, but, to be honest not terribly scenic!

When we return, we find Mack and Josie have reconnected their van to the electricity and are sitting drinking coffee with new arrivals, Glen and Mary. We join them, lo and behold, as we sit there, yet another British pair come walking along (Deryk and Erica). They are not travelling by campervan, but, instead are roaming the waterways of France in their canal boat.

After lunch, we walk into town to have a beer and then buy strawberry tarts. 

On our way back to the van, we call at Deryk and Erica’s boat (Star of Destiny).

Kathleen, never shy, asks if we can have a look around, and they, very kindly oblige.

It is very impressive, like a small house really. A real kitchen, living room, two bedrooms and the wheelhouse doubles up as a dining room come conservatory. You could be VERY comfortable onboard this!

www.youtu.be/7XyGW5QtZp4

As the day wears on, more and more vans arrive, all German, Dutch and Belgian. By early evening, there is quite a little drinking session going on, with ourselves and some Dutch neighbours, who actually ask if Kathleen will play her guitar.

The Pizza man arrives to take orders for take out Pizza, how organised is this place?

After a very pleasant and warm day, we have rain and gale force winds over night, it has not improved by Monday morning.

We make our planned move to Pont a Mousson.

It is dry when we arrive, but soon, the rain catches up with us.

Still, from what I see in the Newspaper, the weather is even worse at home, small consolation!


Pouring rain all Monday night, which lasts until after lunch Tuesday, Kathleen resorts to washing her hair, to occupy herself.

Just as I am about to slope off to McDonalds to use the wifi, Glen and Mary arrive from Pont a Mousson.

Wednesday morning, and it is still raining heavily.

We pack up and head for Stenay, via a couple of supermarkets, where we stop to top up Kathleen's hoard of Gin, Rose Wine and White Wine.

When we eventually arrive at Stenay, who is already sitting there but Mack and Josie!

Still raining!
  

Friday 21st September 2012 - Saturday 22nd September 2012

Charmes, one of many aires on the River Moselle, and, it's associated canal.

For 6Euro per night, you get Electric hook up (6amps), toilets, showers (1.50Euro), and the usual service point.

It even has a wifi point (WIFI STOP), 3Euro for two days, or 16Euro for a year! There are, apparently, WIFI STOP points throughout France. I must have come across at least one before, since, When I come to register, it turns out, I am already registered.

It is fairly well used, but, when we were there at least, not too busy.

This is the view from our window.

As we arrive, we follow another British van ( well actually a Scot to be exact) in, this turns out to be Mack and Josie, a spritely pair in their mid 70's who still roam Europe in their campervan, and usually drive down to Portugal for the winter.

Just as I said before, that some chores just have to be done, so it is with haircuts, just because you are away from home, your hair does not stop growing.

As Kathleen begins cutting my hair in the sunshine, another Brit comes along and introduces himself, he is one of a couple (Steve and Ann), who are on a two year marathon trip, with no plan beyond today.

With six Brits on one aire, what are we to do, well, have a drink together of course, and soon the wine, red, white and rose is flowing. Then, Steve invites us all to eat with them, and tells us, he has cooked enough Spaghetti Bolognaise to feed six people.

Just to put a damper on the party, we feel a few spots of rain, so, we move under a tree, then, the heavens open, and we all scurry, into Steve and Ann's van.

I am not sure how, but, he manages to serve up a meal for six, in between drinking copious amounts of red wine!

The fun goes on fairly late into the night, and ends up with everyone, including Kathleen drinking brandy (Kathleen doesn't even like brandy!).

If this is the way Steve and Ann jouney is going to continue, I am not sure their livers will stand the pace!

Saturday morning, and Steve and Ann head off, just slighly hungover, after exchanging Email addresses.

A trip to Lidl with Mack and Josie, to replentish the wine supplies.

In the afternoon, I cycle along the canal in search of a church (the church in Charmes is closed, due to lack of a priest). I manage to find not one, but two, however, they are over five miles away, and neither of them have a mass tomorrow. It turns out, the nearest church with a mass, is ten miles away at Chatel-sur-Moselle. A ten mile cycle ride before 10:00 in the morning is too much, even for Kathleen's determination!

Tuesday 18th September 2012 - Thursday 20th September 2012

Stocach is an unusual Stelplatz.

There is a Campsite, and Stellplatz, both attached to a large Motorhome/Caravan dealers premises.

You have the choice, you can stay on the ASCI registered campsite and pay 16Euro/night, plus tourist tax, or, you can stay on the Stelplatz, and pay 10Euro per night, including electricity and use of the (excellent) campsite facilities, including washing machines and dryers.

The stellplatz is actually more suitable for motorhomes, since it is more level, the only downside is you have to walk a bit further to the facilities.

We have reached a stage where we MUST do some chores, no clean clothes left!, so, most of our two days here are spent in using the washing machine.

The weather is not magnificent, but we do manage a walk into the rather pretty town.

We meet an English couple, the first we have seen for sometime.

They recommend, an aire at a place called Kaiserberg.

Kaiserberg, has toilets, but no showers or electricity, it is, as you can see, a "car park" aire.

It is extremely busy, even, in late September, so you need to be there not later than early afternoon to stand any real chance of getting a place.

It is 7Euro per 24hours, with free water, and service point, the attraction is the town, just a short walk away.

It is quite amazing, a middle ages village, preserved more or less intact, but, as a functioning village.

Clearly, it is something of a tourist attraction, but, it is not full of tourist tat, which often spoils places like this.

Given that we are only a short distance from the Rhine, quite how this place escaped destruction during both wars is a mystery.

The information board at the church, which was built around 1320, gives this amusing little tale. If you look at the freeze carved above the main entrance (which depicts the crowning of the Virgin Mary, in heaven), the small figure at the far right, is the architect /master mason, Conrad, who built the church, he has included himself in the heavenly group. Clearly he feels he deserved it!

So, we spend our afternoon and evening strolling through the streets, drinking in the pavement cafe, and later, having a meal.

Friday 14th September 2012 - Monday 17th September 2012

Friday, and the weather appears to be improving, so we are able to cycle along the cycle track by lakeside into St Gilgen.

St Gilgen turns out to be a picture postcard Austrian Village, very pretty, in fact, on our way there we almost cycle through a filmset by the lake, where they are making a scene from some TV program we will obviously never see, since it is in Austrian!

We have lunch, and sit by the lake in the sun, just enjoying the scenery, and of course, indulge in the hunt for a church, on the assumption we will be here on Sunday.







But, Saturday arrives, and it is dull and raining heavily, this place is really just like the English Lake District!

Beautiful although it is, we decide, if it is raining, we may as well be driving, we head west toward Germany, having decided we will stay at Ubersee (where we stayed on our way East.

Sunday and the sun is shinning, that is better!.

Kathleen peddles off to church, while I laze in the sun.

We meet for coffee and cake at a little cafe in the town, after church. An odd conversation ensues, I think the owner of the cafe must be Italian rather than German, but a mixture of Kathleen's German, and some pidgeon Italian, with much gesturing gets us the coffee and cake we want.

Having stuffed ourselves with cake, good intentions dictate that we must work it off, so we cycle around the countryside,

with of course a "radler stop"

If we are going to come to Germany again, I need to improve my German at least to the mediocre level of my French, at least I can do the essentials, ie order drinks in French!

The end of another great day.

Monday, we cycle to the nearby Cheimsee, my original intention was to cycle all of the way around the lake, but, in reality it turned out to be much bigger than I thought!

So, we settle for doing a small part of it, and very attractive it is too.

Tomorrow, we will be heading toward the Bordensee, but, this stelplatz is a little find, we would definately use this again.