6th June 2010 – 8th June 2010

Peschiera del Garda – Bella Italia – ACSI2010-1815 continued

Sunday, we cycle into Peschiera, so that Kathleen can attend church. I buy an English newspaper and catch up the latest murders etc in the UK.


The original plan is lunch in Peschiera, but mass was 10:00, so by the time it finishes, we area little early for lunch, and being the weekend, Peschiera is very busy. We decide to re-arrange our plans and return to the van for coffee, followed by lying in the sun (much deserved after yesterdays cycling marathon), with the intention of cycling to Sirmione, in the evening, to eat.


In addition to being church day, it is hairdressing day, cycling to Sirmione after spending an hour (if you believe that you believe anything, it is 2 - 3 hours if it is a minute), washing, drying, straightening hair is a none starter. Instead we walk into Peschiera, in the evening, along the lake shore, and eat at a rather nice, floating, lakeside restaurant.

When we were at Ceriale, we had drinks in a restaurant which were very pleasant, and were, we understood, Campari.

Since then Kathleen has sampled several Campari’s (in the interests of research you understand), but none have been as per the drink in Ceriale. So after our meal we continue the research, here you can see Kathleen working hard at the task.

I am forced to have a beer whilst I wait for her.






We think we have found it. The waitress at the bar tells us it is fizzy white wine, soda water, Aperol and ice of course.

Now we need to buy the ingredients and Kathleen will have to continue experimenting until she has perfected the proportions.

It’s a hard life for some people, I do not know how we stand the pace.


Monday, we find the post office, so that we can post a card off to Houston, for Gary, Susana and Gabriel. After visiting an Italian Post Office, I will never complain about Royal Mail again, well not for a month or two anyway.

There are four counters “manned”, and only about five customers ahead of me, but it still takes almost ten minutes.

First you have to get a ticket, from a machine, to wait in the queue (supermarket deli counter style). There is a choice of three ticket types depending on what you want (one of which is to send a letter or parcel).

Each counter position deals with only one ticket type. So while three positions sit idle, one position deals with the six or so of us waiting, since we all want to send letters or parcels.

In the evening when it has cooled down a little, we cycle the 6.5miles to Sirmione.

Kathleen is able to continue the research into the orange coloured drink which is so popular here.

Sirmione is a beautiful little place, located on a peninsular which juts out into the lake.

I think visiting in the early evening turned out to be a wise decision, not only for the heat, but also because it is so much more peaceful without the crowds.

and someone obviously got their inspiration, for the colour scheme of their house, from the colour of Kathleen’s drink.















Tuesday, is a relaxing day, prior to our driving to Innsbruck, Austria tomorrow, although quite how you can have a relaxing day, when you aren’t actually doing anything anyway is a problem.


I manage to track down a shop selling bottles of Aperol (ingredient to the popular drink Spritz con Aperol), so Kathleen will be able to continue her studies.

June 3rd 2010 - June 5th 2010

Peschiera del Garda – Bella Italia – ACSI2010-1815 contd

Thursday, Kathleen is up for some exploring and exercise, so we cycle along the lake shore to Lazese, then on to Bardolino.



We go via the lake shore where ever possible, the track is mostly good, but a bit bumpy in places. No complaints however, and for once that is actually true!

The lakeshore is dotted with small villages like Lazese, it is difficult to pick one out, over the others, they are all beautifully kept, and very pretty.


We return along the road, which for most of the way has a cycle track, and despite the fact we do almost 23 miles in total, Kathleen sets a cracking pace right to the end.


Have an abortive attempt to get on the internet at the “wifi” bar on the site. But no joy, the place is packed with Germans watching football (a world cup game?), and the noise is deafening. Had hoped to use the skype to check Gary, Susana and overdue new arrival.

Overnight (03:00), we receive news we have been waiting anxiously for. Baby Gabriel has arrived (3rd June, Houston TX, time), at 8lb 3oz, so Gary and Susana are the proud parents of a baby boy, and we of course are Grandparents again, but the first “Reay” grandchild.












Friday, we set off to find Lidl, following the signposts in the town. I can only assume the signs have been put up by a rival supermarket company, because I reckon you have more chance of finding gold, than you have of finding Lidl from those signposts!


After peddling around fruitlessly for about five miles, we go to tourist information who give us a map, with the location of Lidl supposedly marked on it, (we also get a booklet with a couple of cycle routes, see later). Even with the aid of the map we have great difficulty, but we do eventually find it. As ever, once you know where it is, it is not far!


Next challenge is to find McDonald’s (also signposted), so we can use the wifi.


I follow the signs to McDonalds exactly, it says it is 2 minutes away. So to me that means, assuming you are driving a car, somewhere between 1 mile (at 30 mph), and 2 miles (at Italian speeds, ie 60 mph), but all I manage to find, by following the signs to McDonalds is a short cut to Lidl.


Our Dutch neighbours (who we guess to be older than us), return from a cycle trip and tell us they have cycled to a place called Borghetto. This they tell us is it is about 18km (10 miles) away. The die is cast, Kathleen has to better this.

Friday, we are up, picnic packed, and on our way by 9:30, armed with the cycle route booklet, we are aiming for Pozollo (past Borghetto, did you expect anything else?). We are soon out of Peschiera, and cycling along the banks of the river Mincio, which flows south out of Lake Garda.

We first pass the village of Monzambano, with its impressive Church on a hill on the opposite bank of the river.

The castle at Borghetto is visible in the distance, as we approach the village, still peddling strongly.

Borghetto is as they say a “tourist trap”, it is quaint and beautiful, we stop here for refreshments (coffee).

We are here, along with a coach party, and lots of people cycling, like ourselves.






After coffee, we cycle on to Pozzolo, which is 15 miles (24km) from Peschiera. Pozzolo is not very photogenic, so we settle for eating our picnic in the square, and finding a shop which sells greetings cards, where we can a “Congratulations on the birth of your new baby boy” card. Since we do not speak Italian and the shop assistant does not speak English, we have to rely on the fact that some cards are pink and some blue, to determine which apply to boys.


We still have not seen a picture of the new arrival (the picture above was received after writing this, I just changed the blog), although Phillippa tells us she has. For some reason, the picture will not text to us, so it will have to be Email. This means we must wait until we can get an internet connection.

We head back to Peschiera, at 20 miles, Kathleen tells me that her legs are not tired, here you can see her resting the bit that is tired (or suffering).

Back at Monzambano, I think the only photograph you have seen so far of Kathleen drinking water.






We get back to Peschiera at about 13:30, time for a drink. Kathleen has a Campari Spritz, not bad fuel consumption is it, 30 miles to the Campari.






Now we MUST find an internet connection, we need to see these photographs of Gabriel before the rest of the world has seen them!

Update, found that connection, picture downloaded and posted, plus Dana has managed to text message it too us.

June 1st 2010 - June 2nd 2010

Tuesday, we leave Ceriale, to begin heading north toward Lake Garda, then Austria, Germany and eventually home.



This means we are leaving Joan and Bryan, who are now heading further south into Italy, to visit Pisa, Florence, and after that who knows.

We share the driving, Kathleen takes the initial motorway section. In theory, this should be easy going, Italian motorways are good, unfortunately, they have Italians driving on them, so like most things Italian, they are a bit frantic. The section approaching Genova (Genoa to us), is particularly hectic, with lots of tunnels, which plunge you from bright sunlight into gloom, and all the while you have cars, vans and motor cycles weaving from lane to lane at 110kpm.

I get the second, mountainous, section which may have lots of wheel twirling with lots of hairpin bends and be a bit scary with plenty of sheer drops, but at least there are barriers at most of them and there is not much traffic!

The scenery is eye catching.












Cremona – Parco al Po – ACSI2010-1739

Cremona is a beautiful place. The area is fairly flat, and it appears everyone cycles, the town centre is full of people cycling, when we visit. We do a bit of site seeing and having drinks and ice cream while watching the world go by.


Unfortunately the campsite facilities are only adequate, so we decide one night is all we will do here. A shame because there are lots of cycle routes to explore. Perhaps another time, at a different site.


Wednesday we discover is a public holiday (at least in this part of Italy, if not Nationally), we think it has something to do with Corpus Christi, although in the UK, this is celebrated Sunday 6th June. They key thing is, it would appear, all of the shops are shut, and since I failed to stop at Lidl when we left Ceriale, we are short of fruit, vegetables and worst of all wine! In particular, we have no Rose, so Kathleen is not amused.


The journey to Lake Garda is short, only about 1.5hours, but every shopping centre we pass is closed.


Peschiera del Garda – Bella Italia – ACSI2010-1815


The approach to Lake Garda is very busy. When we arrive at the site, we are told we are lucky to get in, since we are getting the last available pitch. Apparently, not only is it an Italian holiday, but also the start of a holiday period in Germany, so there is a German invasion of Campervans, Caravans and Tents.


The site was recommended to us by Gina, who we met at Prairies de la Mer. It is not what we would have chosen without her recommendation, because it is so big. But in the event, it is excellent. Everything about it is organized and spotlessly clean.


We explore the lakeside cycling as far as Rivoltella, about 5 miles west along the southern shore of Lake Garda. We even find a small supermarket, open, on the way back, so wine supplies are replenished.


According to the signposts, there is a Lidl in Peschiera del Garda, but so far, I have not actually found it.

May 29th 2010 - May 30th 2010

Ceriale – Camping Baciccia – ACSI2010-1735 – continued



We (Kathleen and I) cycle to Alassio and back, (16 miles).


Going there is flat as far as Albenga, but then a slow but steady climb, with a final downhill stretch.

Alassio was presumably once a fishing village, but has since become a resort.

From memory it was a popular destination for Brits in the late 1950’s, but now mass tourism has passed it by.


We have a beer to fortify us for the climb back up the hill. We are asked if we want small of medium. We opt for medium, which turns out to be about pint size, but we get, crisps, salted nuts, tuna salad, palma ham, garlic sausage, and bread, as well. It costs 8Euro, but not bad for a mini meal and two pints!

The climb out of Alassio is quite steep, the photograph probably does not show just how steep.

Kathleen is not actually visible, she is just in front of the white car (on the right) and two motorcycles, pedaling valiantly. She makes it to the top, with not a word of complaint.

You have probably noticed that we have not had a hair care day for a while.

Well today is a double dose.

Not only is it hair washing and straightening, but both Joan and Kathleen require the hair colouring to be topped up.

So today it is the full works, colouring, washing, drying, straightening.

Please do not assume that they have any grey hairs of course, they are simply having a tint, to enhance their natural hair colour, becuase the bright sunlight has faded their hair. (No I don't believe that either).

Bryan, comes out of retirement, (he was at some point in his working life a ladies hairdresser), to attend to their needs, and soon has a hairdressing salon going under our awning. Much to the amusement of passers by.

Once hairdressing tasks are completed, evening meals eaten, and skype calls made, we settle down to an evening of Red Wine and Rose Wine.

I feel I should point out that the photographs of the hairdressing have been published at considerable personal risk. Joan in particular is very sensitive about this, and has threatened me with personal injury if I publish the blog containing these photographs. Her threats mean I dare not fall asleep in the sun, in case she performs surgery on me with a blunt knife.

Sunday, church as usual, this means a cycle ride into Ceriale.

While the girls are at church, Bryan and I, retire to a pavement cafe for coffee.

We are eventually joined by Kathleen and Joan, which of course means that the drinks switch to wine.

The cafe does not do meals, only nibbles, so we move on to a restaurant for lunch.

The restaurant is called "Il Restaurante Grotti", but it does not live up to it's name, because we have an excellent meal. Joan, Bryan and Kathleen all have pasta in one form or another whilst I have swordfish.

The Waiter (in the blue shirt), and the Chef (far right), see photographs below, do not speak any English, but we manage to get by in German, French and Italian (from Bryan's phrase book). It all works, because we end up with a meal each, copious amounts of alcohol, and a sweet, the end price being 80Euro including the tip.

In addition to an excellent meal, which takes up most of the afternoon, we have a good old laugh. The girls in particular become typical "Brits abroad" as the amount of alcohol consumed increases (wine at the cafe, Campari while studying the menu, Wine with the meal, followed by a couple of complimentary drinks, the name of which I have forgotten).

Just to complete the line up, the chap in the middle with his arms around the women, is the owner, whilst the chap in the red shirt was another diner, who just joined in the photograph.

We eventually wobble our way back to the campsite on our bikes, and Kathleen, in singing mood, entertains a little Italian girl, whose name is Julia.

May 28th 2010

Ceriale – Camping Baciccia – ACSI2010-1735 - continued

Friday starts overcast but warm, We cycle into Albenga, which is quite a large town. It is an Italian seaside resort, but not a package tour destination.

It has an extensive medieval centre, with numerous piazzas joined together by dozens of very narrow streets and alleys.

After the exploring we retire to a bar for a much needed drink (what a surprise).

We are served with beers which are 7.4% alcohol, quite strong stuff. We are also given salted nuts, olives and crisps as part of the deal. There is much discussion of why it is, that, in the UK, we cannot have 24hours drinking, without the streets being awash with vomit and drunks, but in the rest of Europe, they can drink all day and all night, with never a sight of a drunk.


In the afternoon, we have lunch and relax (quite how it is possible to relax, when doing nothing in the first place, is a good question).


While Bryan practices his Saxaphone, Joan does watercolour painting, and Kathleen does the crossword, I read yesterdays Daily Mail and ponder I gain from these campervan trips to various countries.


One obvious point is the exposure to other languages, and I feel I am beginning to become proficient in a second language. Unfortunately, the second language is not French, Spanish, Italian or German, no it is FemaleSpeak.


I have become fluent in a few phrases (of FemaleSpeak), which I will share with you, and which may be of particular interest to any male readers.


“Do you fancy a cup of tea” – translation – “Would you like to get up from your seat, where you are reading the newspaper, and put the kettle on, because I would like a cup of tea and do not want to interrupt my crossword puzzle”


“Goodness! It is four o’clock already” – translation – “it is time to begin preparing the evening meal, but I am doing my crossword, so would you care to stop whatever you are doing and prepare some vegetables, cut up the meat etc etc”


“I will make a cup of tea” – translation – “I will put the kettle on, then I will play my guitar and forget all about the tea, in the meantime, you can wash the dishes, dry them, put them away, finish making the tea, and bring me a cup”


“I feel thirsty” (usually spoken when lying on sun lounger) – translation – “will you put down your book, at this interesting point in the story, pour me a drink, preferably cool and alcoholic, and put it down in easy reach of my right hand, so that I do not need to move”.

After our evening meal (and putting the kettle on), Kathleen entertains anyone who within earshot.

May 25th 2010 - May 27th 2010

Port Grimaud – Les Prairies de La Mer – ACSI2010-1523 - continued

Tuesday, Bryan and Joan, and Bob and Gina are packing to leave tomorrow, heading their separate ways.



I visit a bar/restaurant (Le Jardin de la Mer), which Joan had noticed was offering free internet access. When I arrived (at about 15:00), the place was just closing for the afternoon, but for the price of a beer, I was given the password for the Wifi, and a seat on the veranda, where I was able to download photographs and prepare this as a draft for free, instead of at the extortionate prices offered by the campsite for wifi.


On my return from the bar, I find that, Joan, has been instructing Kathleen and Gina in the art of cake making using the Remoska. The area around our vans is pervaded with the smell of cakes baking, plenty of jealous people I think.


We have a Date and Walnut cake, made by Kathleen, under supervision from Joan, and a German Apple Cake made by Joan, with Kathleen and Gina under instruction. Recipes and instructions are carefully noted and Bob and I look forward to a future rich in beautifully made cakes.

The German Apple Cake is demolished as our joint sweet. The Date and Walnut cake is halved between the Cricks and ourselves. Joan generous as ever shares her half with Bob and Gina, so far Kathleen has not even shared our half with me!


Wednesday, and they all leave, so now we are surrounded by empty spaces, until at about midday, a Swiss Caravanning couple arrive, and an Italian couple in a Campervan shortly afterwards.

The first two slices of Date and Walnut cake are eaten at lunch time. It is superb. Kathleen is going to be unbearable now that she has added cake making to her many skills!

Dana is an accomplished cake maker, I can only assume that the skill must be a gene which has been dormant in Kathleen, but passed on to Dana, it has somehow now been activated in Kathleen (I hope permenantly).

I return to the bar/restaurant, and buy myself a large beer so that I can use the internet again (it is a hard life), continue with the blog and top up my mobile phone just in case I need to make calls to Houston, since so far, our pending new arrival has not arrived.



Wednesday, and they all leave, so now we are surrounded by empty spaces, until at about midday, a Swiss Caravanning couple arrive.

Thursday, we finish our packing and get on the road to Italy. As usual we stay off the motorway as much as possible, but on this route it is a mistake, once in Italy, the coast road through places such as San Remo is a torturous road with heavy traffic, and motor scooters taking suicidal risks to overtake. It may cost 20Euro to bypass it on the motorway, but it is worth it.

Ceriale – Camping Baciccia – ACSI2010-1735

It is very busy when we arrive. Fortunately Bryan and Joan have reserved us a pitch. The owner supervises me reversing on to it. It is so tight I have to remove the bikes from the bike rack, to gaion an extra metre of room. But evetually I am on the pitch, getting off again might be another story!

19th May - 24th May 2010

Port Grimaud – Les Prairies de La Mer – ACSI2010-1523



We have been here a couple of times before, on the plus side, it is right on the beach, it is an easy cycle to the Supermarket, and to Saint Maxime (where there is a church for Kathleen). But it is a very big site, and since our last visit even more of it has been given over to static caravans and chalets. Not a place I would like to be in the season when it is busy, but at this time of year it is OK.


The weather at least seems to be on our side, it is sunny and actually hot, not just warm.


Bryan and Joan, have both had colds, now it is our turn. We dose ourselves with a French cold remedy called Fervex. It did the trick for Bryan and Joan, so hopefully it will fix us too.


Wednesday morning, and I have clearly spoken too soon. It is pouring with rain. It lasts until about 11:00, and then clears and the sun comes out. Everything begins to dry out rapidly, so everyone is smiling again.


We cycle to show Bryan and Joan where the Geant Supermarket is (1.5miles away), along a good cycle track.

Thursday morning arrives, bright sunshine, as you would expect in the South of France. We cycle to Saint Maxime. It is an easy 4 miles along an excellent cycle track.

Saint Maxime is a beautiful little place, much nicer than the more famous St Tropez (in my humble opinion).

The church times are checked, so that Joan and Kathleen can come to mass here on Sunday, assuming the church in Port Grimaud is not open (as is usually the case out of season).






We stop off for a drink and watch the world go by, before cycling back.


I stop to take a couple of photographs, confident I will catch them up. But as I pedal after them, I get a puncture. I have a spare inner tube and puncture outfit of course, but they are back at the van. Kathleen and I do not have our mobile phones with us. Obviously I would be a failure as a boy scout. I have no choice but to walk the remaining three miles, pushing my bike. I assume one of the party (like my loving wife), will notice that I am missing, and come back to see where I am. But no one appears, until I am about a mile from the campsite, at which point Bryan rides to the rescue. It is not worth fixing the puncture at this point, so I give him my van keys so that Kathleen can get into the van, and walk the remaining mile.


After our return, our English neighbours, Bob and Gina, decide they will cycle to St Maxime. Unfortunately on the return trip, Gina falls off her bicycle and scrapes her knee and arm. No serious harm, but some nasty grazes. Kathleen, who does not normally have so much as a sticking plaster to hand, excels herself and provides a sterile dressing.


Bryan and I, fix my puncture, which turns out to be a nail which has holed the tube in two places.


From her sunbed, Kathleen offers to provide the evening meal (Spaghetti Bolognaise), for everyone. This translates as her lying in the sun for the rest of the afternoon, whilst I prepare ingredients, and cook the pasta, Kathleen does the finishing (and of course all important) touches, to produce a meal praised by all present.

Friday, boosted by the trip to St Maxime, and armed with a map borrowed from Bob and Gina, we set off for St Tropez. There is a cycle track for the whole distance now, and it is a pleasant ride along a virtually flat route.

We wander the harbour, with it’s collection of expensive boats and yachts.

There are also a couple of cruise ships at anchor, just offshore, with their (mainly American) passengers “doing” St Tropez.

We have been to St Tropez before, but on that occasion it was market day, and very crowded. Today it is much more pleasant, and we are able to wander the side streets easily, taking the odd photograph as we go.

Eventually we retire to a café for a beer, but then decide we will have lunch there. The meal is pretty good value, with a main course and sweet, plus coffee for 15Euro each, not bad, considering we are in “trendy” St Tropez.

In the course of the meal we meet a couple of Americans off the cruise ship in the harbour. He is a New York Attorney, it made us realise why the world hates Americans. His wife was bearable.

Suitably fortified we cycle back, making an 11 mile round trip.











Saturday brings the need for a full hairdressing exercise, including, selection of suitable venue for washing, wash, blow dry, straighten, cut fringe, look in mirror, fiddle a bit more etc etc.


The afternoon is spent in a stroll around Port Grimaud, and the inevitable beer. Port Grimaud is a sort of fake Cote d’Azure fishing village. It was built as a holiday centre come marina in the 1970’s.


It was built to mimic the style of a “real” fishing village, and it has been very well done, but of course it is just not real. The harbour/marina I am sure has never actually seen a fishing boat, being filled with expensive yachts and power cruisers. So is a sort of Milton Keynes of Cote d’Azure fishing villages.


The plan is to have a quiet evening, with not too much to drink, since we have probably been overdoing the alcohol intake recently.

But as with all well laid plans, it unravels, and we spend the evening with Bryan, Joan, Bob and Gina, drinking red wine, chatting and sampling Jeana’s home made sponge cake (very nice too). She owns up to the fact that it is out of a packet, but she still had to put it in the oven, which I suppose counts as home made. Also to be fair to Gina, she is a none drinker, although she is tempted into a glass of Joans Croatian Pear Liqueur.


Sunday, so of course Kathleen and Joan “must” go to Mass.


We all cycle to St Maxime, the ladies do their religious duty, whilst Bryan and I check out the restaurants and then sit and watch the world go by.

We have lunch at a pleasant little restaurant, and then lie on the beach, before cycling back to the campsite.


Monday, another beautiful, sunny day.


Kathleen exhibits another of her many talents by cutting my hair, which has become quite shaggy in the five or six or is it seven weeks we have been away from home.


Bryan and Joan opt to take the “Petite Train” to Grimaud village. This is a small tractor, made to look like a train, which pulls along a number of trailers (carriages), it takes a leisurely 50 minutes to get to Grimaud village, about five miles inland.


When we cycled to St Tropez, I noticed a turn off the cycle track to a place called Ramatuelle. We have been told the route there is hilly, but my preference is to have a go at cycling there (and back of course).


Kathleen and I set off. It is initially easy going, along the cycle track to St Tropez, but shortly after we take the turn off to Ramatuelle, the route begins to climb steadily.


It turns out to be 1.5 miles of flat cycling, followed by 5 miles up an increasingly steep hill.


We manage to maintain a steady ten miles an hour up the hill, for the first three miles, but as it becomes ever steeper, we are reduced to just over 5 miles an hour.

At the top is a beautifully preserved, hilltop medieval village (Ramatuelle).

There is also a “defibrillateur” machine attached to the wall, beside the fountain, indicating that some people have not survived the climb without serious ill effects!

We do a (walking) circuit of the village, including the church, of course.

Since Kathleen has been such an intrepid cyclist, with not a word of complaint as she slogged her way up hill for 5 miles, I treat her to a glass of Rose, in a rather smart pavement café/restaurant. You may think one glass of rose is a bit mean, but at 7Euro (£6.40), per glass, it was as much as I could afford!

The hair not looking as good as it might, after our sweaty cycle ride, is what she is saying here!


My original plan had been to go down hill on the otherside of Ramatuelle to the beach, cycle along the coast to St Tropez, then along the cycle track back to Port Grimaud.


But we do not have a map with us, and it is a guess on my part that it is actually possible to get along the coast from Ramatuelle to St Tropez. Kathleen is not willing to trust my guess, if it means having to peddle up yet another hill. Oh ye of little faith.


We return the way we came, which means 5 miles of coasting down hill, reaching 24 miles an hour without even peddling!


In the evening, despite a gruelling day of cycling, Kathleen rustles up a superb meal. She calls it “Pork and Apple Surprise”, on the basis that it is as big a surprise to her as to everyone else that it turned out so well.


The late evening is spent in drinking copious amounts of red wine, and chatting with Joan, Bryan, Bob and Gina.