Camping Strandbad, Mannheim (N49.450137, E8.445048)

Monday, 9th September 2019


The rain has stopped, but, still cloudy and cool. 

We decide to move on, it is very pretty here at Eberbach, but, the weather does not look promising.

A very short drive, approximately 35 miles, to Mannheim, Camping Strandbad (N49.450137, E8.445048). A site on the banks of the River Rhine, just outside of Mannheim. It has mixed reviews, on SearchForSites, (one good one bad).So far, it appears to be a typical "city" campsite, ie, a bit rough at the edges, but, contrary to the (bad) review, the warden seems a perfectly likeable chap, to us. One point, not mentioned in the reviews, is the extremely tight entrance, and narrow approach road, I don't know what you would do if you met something coming the other way, certainly beyond my reversing skills to reverse through that entrance!

The site is on level ground, on the banks of the River Rhine, we can almost claim to have a view of the Rhine, it is just visible, past the telegraph pole, between the trees!

We arrived around lunch time, so, after lunch, we set off on the bicycles for a "small" explore.

Apparently, it is not permitted to ride bicycles in "the park", but, there is an excellent cycle route, following the river (we are told after inadvertently cycling where we should not have been).

The "small" explore takes us on a 14 mile round trip.

First, we ride through a forested area on the banks of the Rhine, then into a more urban, park area.

Kathleen is having an adventurous day, we cross the river on a large road/railway bridge (with dedicated cycle track of course, cycle onto an island in the Rhine, through a park, then, back via another even larger bridge, again with dedicated cycle track.

We find our way remarkably well, with only a

slight "hiccup" after crossing the second bridge, the cycle route takes us some distance from the river, and, we are aware that there are several "channels" and islands in the river, and, that we must ensure we end up on the "correct" bank.

No problem, after a small detour, planned of course, through a rather shabby area of warehouses and docks, we emerge, back on the cycle track we recognise.

To Eberbach, Germany

Friday, 6th September 2019

Another pleasant day is promised, but, today we are leaving Pont-a-Mousson, and heading for Germany.

A quick good bye, to our Dutch neighbours, who have been polite enough to barely mention Brexit, and, away we go, via Lidl, for wine.

Approximately 160 miles, mostly on free, excellent quality, but, very busy German Motorways.

Eberbach is approximately 20 miles upriver from Heidleburg, on the River Necker. Camping Eberbach (N49 27'38" E8 58'57"), is alongside the river, on the opposite bank to most of the town of Eberbach. It is an ACSI Site, 18Euro/night.

The church is located, ready for Sunday! 

Saturday, 7^th September 2019

Camping Eberbach (N49 27'38" E8 58'57") contd...

A grey and cool day, with occasional light showers, only 15C, rather chilly.

Domestic chores, Kathleen interacts with the very bossy young lady in reception, to obtain the key to use the Washing Machines. That should be interesting, a referee will probably be required! 

But, I have no time to spectate, I have to assemble the clothes dryer, under the awning, out of the rain, ready for the wet clothes. 

Actually, the young lady in reception is not really bossy, more sort of straight talking and very efficient, in a German sort of way. They must often wonder, “how on earth did we manage to lose the war?”.

The rain does not appear to have deterred the rowers, why are practicing, up and down the river, followed by coaches giving instructions and encouragement(?) through megaphones. I always thought that rowing was a quintissentiually English pastime, but, it would appear to be something else we have in common with our German cousins.

Sunday, 8th September 2019

Camping Eberbach (N49 27'38" E8 58'57") contd...

Oh dear! It has poured with rain all night, and, it is forecast to continue for most of today, not very good, plus, we are parked on grass, at the bottom of a hill.

Kathleen does her church stuff.

I am delegated the task of searching out a suitable restaurant (with Italian food), for lunch, which I do, but, when El Jefe emerges from church, the mind has changed, and, no longer wants Italian Food, so, we go to a place which appears busy, with locals(?) and Kathleen risks a Vienna Schnitzel, which she very much enjoys.

We decline a 'sweet". and, instead, visit a nearby cake shop, for enormous and very tasty pieces of cake.

The rain comes and goes, all day.

The Rhine and Moselle

I am told Imelda Marcos had a thing about buying shoes, well Kathleen has a thing about buying hats. Yet another one is acquired when visiting Rudesheim.

Friday 27^th September 2013

We spend the day, cycling along the Rhine to Guisenheim and beyond.

Visiting the market, to buy fresh vegetables.

Lunchtime is spent drinking white wine in a pavement bar.

All very enjoyable.





Saturday 28^th September 2013

We leave Guisemheim, for the Moselle.

Kathleen is very concerned about the route the sat-nav will take us, the Rhine is a big river, and there are not many bridges.

Initially, she is concerned, because we are heading toward Koblenz, a significant distance down river, but, after just a few kilometres, we are directed to a ferry across the Rhine to Bingen.

The Rhine is an incredibly busy river, with barges and large river cruise boats passing up and down the river every few minutes.

So, crossing the river in a ferry, is, we find, the equivalent of attempting to cross the M1 on foot.

The ferry has to pause and turn head on to the current, whilst barges pass on either side of us, several times during the crossing.

We are heading for a Stelplatz which we got from a book I picked up at a tourist display, we arrive at Minheim, (N49 51’ 54” E6 56’ 28”).

But, the best laid plans of mice and men, seldom work out.

I have carefully checked out the church in advance on Google, but, we arrive to find the place absolutely full.

A van just leaving, but the German van we have followed for the past five miles gets the space. I knew I should have taken a chance and overtaken him! He is so anxious to grab the space, he begins reversing into it, before the departing van has actually exited the space, and promptly reverses into him! No damage done fortunately.

Never mind, we know of another Stelplatze. 

Longuich, Felten Weine and Edelbrande (N49 48’ 7” E6 46’ 49”) A return visit, so, a stroll to refresh Kathleen’s memory of where the church is, and check out mass times.

We pause in a Bier Garten for a glass of wine, then, back to the van to snooze in the autumn sun.

The banks of the Moselle are covered in vineyards, and, most of the stellplatz are set in the vineyards.

This one, at Longuich, is no exception, we are surrounded by the raw materials of our lunch time tipple!

Sunday 29^th September 2013

Sunday, so, that means church.

While Kathleen cycles to the village to attend church, I bake bread for later.

No, I have not become a bread chef, we bought part cooked bread buns, at Lidl, all you have to do, is pop them in the oven for ten minutes, even I can do that.

After Kathleen returns from church, we cycle down river for about six miles, a little beyond a place called Mehring. We call in at Mehring, to check out the Stellplatz there, it has a good spot, right on the river bank, but, it holds approximately 100 vans, and is a little too big for our taste.

By the time we return to Longuich, we have cycled about twelve miles, that is quite a feat on our folding bicycles, which are not designed for significant distances.

We cycle back to the Wine / Bier Garden we visited yesterday, for a very enjoyable lunch, some excellent wine, German brandy and German Liquers.

Monday 30^th September 2013

A beautiful autumn day, bright blue sky, warm sunshine.

We cycle along the Moselle into Scweich, passing a rather large river cruise ship, executing a complete turn in the river. The ship is almost as long as the river is wide.

The plan had been to use a cash machine in Scweich, then cycle along the river in the direction of Trier.

But, we meet an Welsh couple who have ridden to Scweich on their motor scooter from further down the Moselle. They turn out to be an entertaining pair, 74 years old, but, not even looking retirement age, they are making their way back home, from a visit to Poland.

We talk for so long, we run our of time to do our cycle ride, and instead return to the van for lunch, and an afternoon of reading in the sun.

South West across Germany to the Rhine

Monday 23rd September 2013

Heading toward the Rhine or Moselle, not quite decided yet.

First stop is Gottingen, a very pleasant town, is our first impression..

We stay on a stellplatze. Badeparadies Eiswiese (N51 31'23" E9 55'46"). Very nice it is too. Almost empty when we arrive, but, by 17:00 almost full, as you can see.

We meet yet another couple of New Zealanders (France and Cynthia), who are now living in the UK, but, spend most of their time roaming Europe in a Campervan. France is of Dutch extraction, but went to New Zealand as a baby, with his parents. He thus has the luxury(?) of New Zealand, Dutch and EU citizenship.

A very pleasant evening, drinking red wine and comparing notes on the places we have visited.

Tuesday 24th September 2013

Kathleen is not feeling too well today, cold type bug symptoms, but, being a woman, she will not just stay in and keep warm and comfortable. As a dutiful husband, I cycle to the supermarket and buy her a bottle of whisky, so, she can have hot lemonade and whisky drinks.

We spend the day exploring Gottingen, by bicycle. This is all very enjoyable, cycle tracks everywhere. The cycle tracks even have traffic lights to control the flow!

I realise that Kathleen is probably not cut out for life here. Everyone abides by the rules, waits for the "little green man" before crossing the road etc, waiting is not really Kathleen's forte. The problem is, the local population obey the rules, and, assume everyone else will, so, when you get a "wild card" potential disaster beckons.

Wednesday 25th September 2013.

Mundane tasks have to be attended to, ie clothes washing etc,so, we head for a campsite.

Back to Eschwege, Knaus Campingpark (N51 11’ 29” E10 10’ 7”).

All washing done, and lunch over, we spend the afternoon, cycling around the lake, drinking beer in the sunshine, before cycling around the lake again, just for the hell of it. 

It is warm and sunny, but, autumn is definitely here, as can be seen from the colours of the leaves on the trees.











Thursday 26th September 2013.

We arrive Geisenheim, Am Campingplatz 1, (N49 58' 45" E7 57' 27"), an ACSI site.

We get a spot right on the banks of the Rhine.

Once parked, we cycle into Rudesheim, for a late lunch.

Rudesheim is a stopping off point for the river cruise boats which ply the Rhine, so, is a rather busy place, but, still very pretty, if you get away from the river front street.

Berlin

Saturday 21st September 2013.

We get the bus into Berlin centre. I am given the task of memorising the bus stop, where we get on, so we can find our way back.

I understand the logic. If the task is given to me, and it goes wrong, ie, we get lost, it is my fault.

I carefully study the information at the bus stop. I know we are in an area called Spandau, and, there is a sign on the bus stop reading "Rathaus - Spandau", I know this translates as Town Hall, Spandau. Quite reasonably, I think, I conclude this stop is at the townhall, Spandau. I am a little puzzled that I cannot see any large building which may resemble a Town Hall, but, hey, you cannot have everything.

The bus (M45), arrives, as expected, we board, pay our fare and take our seats. The bus sets off, stopping here and there, as buses do. After 5-10 minutes, we stop outside of a large and impressive building, which is clearly, Spandau Town Hall. This means of course, wherever we got on, it was not "Rathuas - Spandau". I decide to keep this bit of information to myself, and worry about it on the way back.

In due course we arrive at the Zoo on the edge of Tiergarten. I am given the task of reading the street map, and trying to keep Kathleen under control as she walks off in various directions at double time.

We manage to take-in the Willem Memorial Cathedral, mostly a ruin (bombed in 1943) and in the process of being restored. There is quite a sobering exhibition of the futility of war.

I manage to keep Kathleen on track, and we walk through Tiergarten, to the "Victory Monument". I am not sure which victory this commemorates, clearly not 1918 or 1945.

I jest of course, the Germans may have lost the (don't mention the) war,but, they certainly won the peace, this place is magnificent. There is success showing everywhere you look. Everything just works! 

Next we come to a memorial erected by the former USSR, to the two thousand Russian soldiers who died in June 1945, during the final days of Berlin's resistance.

There cannot ever be a good time to be killed I suppose, but, fancy getting killed when it was just about all over, talk about bad luck!

Next, we wander along to the Brandenburgh Gate. A memorable sight, from many a cold war spy film, but, I thought, not nearly as impressive in real life as it appears in films.

Basically, it is not as big as I imagined it would be. What is impressive is the quality of the restoration, from photographs taken after the fall of Berlin, this area was a heap of rubble, you would never know it now.

Through the Brandenburgh Gate, and you are into what was, until some 25 or so years

ago, East Berlin of course. All very nasty at the time, but, I think it is all a bit tacky now.

There is no doubt however, they are certainly laughing about is now, people dressed as border guards, etc etc.

Plus one person dressed (I think) as a character out of Star Wars. I am not sure what point he or she is trying to make, well, there is at least one in every major city I suppose.

Inevitably there are people driving around in restored Trabant cars, the ultimate joke of the Soviet system. 

Finally, a very novel bar, where you can sit on your bar stool, drinking your beer, and peddle to get your exercise! The bar is propelled around the streets by the efforts of the drinkers, I am not sure who, if anyone is steering however!

We take in the restored Parliament building, and then wander to Potsdam Platz, via the memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe.

At Potsdam Platz, there are some bits of the infamous Berlin Wall, not in their original state, or original situation, but as exhibits from the past.

We stroll some more, in the autumn sunshine, and come across a canal, with this definately "uncity like" view. 

As we wander past pavement bars, we notice everyone is drinking enormous glasses of beer.

We have to have one, and take a seat to have a drink and be entertained, by this chap doing hand stands on a skateboard, followed by an acrobat and a very young boy, playing the clarinet.

One last thing to do, before catching the bus back to the stellplatze, have a Bratwurst.

I cannot convince Kathleen to join me, so, she amuses herself taking a photograph of this very simple, but, effective public toilet (for men), and women who can pee standing up.






We board the bus, and, I have to now own up, I do not know where to get off. We have to wait until we reach the "Rathaus", and then take a guess at the appropriate stop, the fact I am writing this, tells you, we made it.

I redeem myself by finding the nearest Catholic Church, via Google.

It is not far (about 2.5km, the sat-nav tells us), but, we have no idea in which direction, and, since the sat-nav is built into the van, we cannot take it with us.

Google maps to the rescue, and we are able to get both a walking route and a cycling route.

Sunday 22nd September 2013.

 It is dry and mild, so, it is decided, we will cycle to the church. It is a mixture of dedicated cycletrack and on road cycle lane, so, not difficult at all.

Working on the off chance that I am wrong, and there is a god, and, he is a Catholic, I do hope he will take note of the efforts I have gone to, to get one of his flock (Kathleen) to church, no matter where we are.

While Kathleen does the church thing, I have a wander of the surrounding streets, a combination of looking for interesting sights, and checking out likely eating places for our lunch.

The plan is to have a little gentle exercise (walking or cycling) after Mass, followed by Sunday Lunch (although, I doubt it will be Roast beef and Yorkshire pudding).

We are still in Spandua district, but, this area is the "old town", at least I think that is what the term "altstadt" means.

There is a river or canal at the end of the street, with a busy lock.

There are also some rather quaint buildings which according to the signs on them date back to the 1700's.

Kathleen duly emerges from church at 11:00, too early to eat, and it is decided, we will cycle for an hour or so, to sharpen our appetite.


We head to the lock, and then cycle along the river, we think we are heading in the

direction of Berlin Centre, but, since we have no map, the strategy is to keep the River in view, so we do not get lost.

Suitably hungry, park our bicycles and have a very enjoyable lunch.

We walk a little to allow lunch to settle, then head for a coffee and cake shop, to drink delicious coffee and devour enormous portions of cake.



The Stellplatze is on the site of a former barracks. There is a large building next to the site, which we assume was the barracks, and, which now appears to be used as flats. As we arrive back, we are greeted by a very enthusiastic group of some 8 or so children, aged not more than 10 years, waving from one of the windows.

Kathleen waves back. This turns out to be a mistake. Before we can blink, we are surrounded by them. From their appearance, they are immigrants, they are fascinated by our folding bicycles. They speak a little English and in addition to introducing themselves, ask for a ride on the bicycles. We oblige, and two at a time, all 8 of them have a turn at whizzing around the site. Some are not too steady at riding a bicycle, Kathleen is concerned they will injure themselves (or someone else!). We discover while they can speak enough English to ask for a turn, they do not appear to understand "be careful" or "Ok, that is enough". Kathleen eventually coaxes them off the bicycles with biscuits all round.

Once they have demolished the biscuits, they run around the site, playing hide and seek, and, as far as we can see, doing no harm, just being children.

But later in the afternoon, there is some form of upset, and eventually, the Police are called. Kathleen's German is not up to understanding what is going on and we are not brought into the discussion, nor are we ejected from the site, so, I assume it is not us who have caused the upset by indulging them. A mystery.

Arrive at Berlin

Friday 20th September 2013. We leave, the plan being to make another stop over, between here and Berlin.

Berlin is approximately 230 miles away, so, we plan to stop off about halfway.

We head for a Stellplatz, featured in the German Stellplatz book. The place is called Brachwitz, near Halle.

What a place to find! We leave the excellent tarmac road, and travel about three miles along a narrow, cobblestone road.

Then we arrive at a ferry across a (not very wide) river. The ferry is just a sort of flat platform which shuttles back and forth across the river. 

Kathleen has visions of a Jeremy Clarkson (Top Gear) episode, where they ferried their cars across a river on a home made raft.

The chap who operates the ferry takes four euros for the crossing, and gives Kathleen instructions (in German), on how to find the Stellplatz. The only word I understand is "links" (ie left).

After several turning around adventures, we find the place. There are no other vans there, and, apart from a few houses, there is nothing there.

We decide to head for our second choice, about 20 miles further on, in the direction of Berlin. We find this with no difficulty, but, it is a Campervan Garage, there is no Stellplatz there.

We cut our losses and head for our third choice, this turns out to be a rather shabby lorry parking area.

We are not having much luck!

We eat lunch and decide to simply head for Berlin, it is another 90 miles or so.

We were advised by the English couple we met several days ago to use the Berlin-Spandau Stellplatz. In the book, there are two of course. We choose the one which is described as best for public transport to the city centre (Reisemobilhafen Berlin, N52 33' 12" E13 12'2"). The sat-nav takes us there effortlessly, apart from the pouring rain!

The Road to Berlin

Sunday 15^th September 2013

Leave home, raining, windy, cold, makes you pleased you are going really.

The plan is to have a Sunday Lunch en-route. Being an organised individual, otherwise known as a nerd, I look up several possible places on the internet. Not a very successful venture. We choose one (the Jolly Wagonner, Ardley, Hertfordshire), because we are reasonably near there, at about the time we are about the faint from hunger (ie about 14:00 on Sunday).

The sat nav takes us there, with some false starts, and some rather narrow country lanes, only to find they stopped serving Sunday Lunch, despite the fact that their website says they serve from 12:00 – 19:00.

Undeterred, we find an alternative, “The Bull”, in a village called Cottered, very pleasant Sunday lunch.

As we approach Dover, the weather has become even worse, strong winds and driving rain. The ferries are running late, so, at 19:30, we are boarding the 18:00 sailing, which deposits us in Dunkirk at 21:30 (22:30 French time).

Kathleen surpasses herself by navigating us to Gravelines Aire, in the dark, without the sat-nav or a map. We will never hear the last of this feat.

Monday morning dawns clear and sunny, and we set off for Charlesville de Meziers. Apart from some heavy traffic, on the outskirts of Lille, a completely uneventful drive.

The Aire at Charlesville de Meziers is full, so, we have to use the adjacent campsite (Camping Mount Olympus ).

We have time for a walk into town, and a beer, before the rain starts.

Tuesday morning, still damp and chilly, no, make that cold. We make a leisurely departure. East to Sedan, then north into Belgium, and then east through the Ardennes region of Belgium, into Luxemburg. How I love all of this “open borders” stuff in Europe, no hold ups, no passports to be checked, no customs, travel as it should be.

Soon, we are in Germany, arriving at our next stop, just south of Koblenz, on the banks of the Rhine, at a very picturesque place called Braubach (N50 16’ 11” E7 38’ 50”). This is a Stellplatz, German style, electric hook up, shower, toilets, etc, all beautifully kept, for 7 Euro/night.  

We are there early enough to get a riverside spot. I was never really aware of being nautically inclined, but, I love to watch boats or ships coming and going. Here, I have a ringside seat as Rhine Cruise boats and barges sail past at regular intervals. I think it is the wanderlust in me.

Pity the sun is not shining.

We are parked next to a very flash Concorde Motorhome, about the size of a small bus! It turns out, the lady of the outfit was born in South Shields. Is there no escape? In the course of out chat, we get useful pointers on where to stay in Berlin.

Wednesday 18^th September 2013. It is pouring with rain. So, pretty as it is here, if you cannot get out and enjoy it for the rain, there is not much point in sitting here. So, we head off for Kassel.

Kathleen has picked out a Stellplatze, which is (according to the book) a Country and Western Music venue, sounds interesting. According to photographs in the book, it all looks very "authentic", wild west style. But, when we arrive, it turns out to be a rather dilapidated farm, no other campervans in sight, a couple of old cars chocked up on bricks, and a very battered caravan. We decide against staying!

We move on to the second choice, still in Kassel, another Stellplatze. Rather more appealing, but, almost campsite prices (ie 12.50Euro, plus 50 cents Kw/Hr for electricity). So, we decide we may as well go to a campsite. We push on for another 35 miles (well maybe 40 after we have fallen foul of the tricky German double exits, yet again).

We arrive at Eschwege, Knaus Campingpark (N51 11’ 29” E10 10’ 7”), an ASCI site, so, 16 Euro gets us all facilities. The rain stops, the sun comes out to give us a very pleasant evening.

Thursday 19th September 2103.

One of those crucial days, hair washing, straightening etc, I stay out of the way for a couple of hours. It has only taken me 25 years to learn that is the wisest course of action.

It is dry and mild, with a little sun, so, we have a walk into the pretty town of Eschwege.

Very German, but, just the kind of town I like, not too many clothes shops to stand outside of whilst Kathleen looks at exactly the same things she could buy back in the UK, but, plenty of places with cakes, coffee, bars, and food.

I buy a Vodaphone (Germany) SIM, so I can get on the Internet, then find somewhere for lunch.

What a hard life this is.

Tuesday 18th September 2012 - Thursday 20th September 2012

Stocach is an unusual Stelplatz.

There is a Campsite, and Stellplatz, both attached to a large Motorhome/Caravan dealers premises.

You have the choice, you can stay on the ASCI registered campsite and pay 16Euro/night, plus tourist tax, or, you can stay on the Stelplatz, and pay 10Euro per night, including electricity and use of the (excellent) campsite facilities, including washing machines and dryers.

The stellplatz is actually more suitable for motorhomes, since it is more level, the only downside is you have to walk a bit further to the facilities.

We have reached a stage where we MUST do some chores, no clean clothes left!, so, most of our two days here are spent in using the washing machine.

The weather is not magnificent, but we do manage a walk into the rather pretty town.

We meet an English couple, the first we have seen for sometime.

They recommend, an aire at a place called Kaiserberg.

Kaiserberg, has toilets, but no showers or electricity, it is, as you can see, a "car park" aire.

It is extremely busy, even, in late September, so you need to be there not later than early afternoon to stand any real chance of getting a place.

It is 7Euro per 24hours, with free water, and service point, the attraction is the town, just a short walk away.

It is quite amazing, a middle ages village, preserved more or less intact, but, as a functioning village.

Clearly, it is something of a tourist attraction, but, it is not full of tourist tat, which often spoils places like this.

Given that we are only a short distance from the Rhine, quite how this place escaped destruction during both wars is a mystery.

The information board at the church, which was built around 1320, gives this amusing little tale. If you look at the freeze carved above the main entrance (which depicts the crowning of the Virgin Mary, in heaven), the small figure at the far right, is the architect /master mason, Conrad, who built the church, he has included himself in the heavenly group. Clearly he feels he deserved it!

So, we spend our afternoon and evening strolling through the streets, drinking in the pavement cafe, and later, having a meal.

Sunday 26th August 2012 - Monday 27th August 2012

The plan is to stop at a site just east of Strasbourg, in Germany.

Getting around Strasbourg turns out to be more difficult than we thought, we have to exit the Motorway and head for a place called Offenburg.

The trusty TomTom instructs us to exit the motorway, onto an exit slip, which then splits into four different options, none of them signposted Offenburg. Needless to say, we get it wrong, the satnav patiently leads us round in a circle to rejoin the motorway, back to have another shot, wrong!

It is not the TomTom’s patience which is stretched now, but, round we go again, third time lucky and soon we are in Germany.

Despite the trials of the Satnav, we have made good time, it is still grey and cloudy, so we decide it is a good day for travelling.

We reset the satnav for a site much further into Germany. But, the tone has been set, Tomtom is in the bad books, Kathleen questions why it has planned a route, which, at first sight does look a little strange. We need to go, more or less due east, but, the planned route takes us north east, then south west. It does look a bit less than direct.

The satnav is duly ignored, and we follow Kathleen’s more direct route.

We soon find out why the satnav did not choose this route, we are crossing a mountain. I swear we passed a few guys in turbans leading Elephants it was that high.

We arrive at Sonnen/Erpfingen, Azur Rosencamp (N48 21’47” E9 11’0”). Not one of our better choices. The sentiment is not helped by the chap in reception who upsets Kathleen by insisting on seeing our passports before he will check us in.

Kathleen spends the evening quotes sections from Fawlty Towers, "don't mention the war".

Only one night here.

We take advantage of the free German motorways to eat some miles, east towards Munich, which we pass around on the north side, then South and East again.

Just before we arrive at our stop for the night, we are greeted with this sight, has there been a natural disaster we wonder, a flood, a hurricane?

No, it is the aftermath of a pop festival!, it goes to show, Germans can be untidy too!

We find this very pleasant Stellplatz, just off the motorway at Ubersee-Almau (N47 48’35” E12 29’33”). 11Euro, Electricity, Toilets, Showers, and ten minutes walk to the village, excellent.

It is sort of in the grounds of a working farm, which can be seen in the

We walk into the village and enjoy a meal and or course a bottle of wine.

Wednesday 11th May 2011 - Tuesday 17th May 2011

Markelfingen , Camping Willam (ACSI2011-590)



Today, Wednesday as we leave Freiberg, it is overcast and rain looks like a real possibility. As we climb towards Titisee, the rain starts. This is the first rain we have had since we left home two weeks ago. We cannot complain at that, but of course we do.


It is clear by the way the road climbs, we would never have made Titisee on the bicycles, even if we had kept going beyond the 11 mile mark yesterday, admittedly, yesterday was fine and sunny, but today, we are soon engulfed in cloud as the road snakes it’s way up.


Once we have got over the hills past Titisee, the rain stops and the sun is shining again.


We are still on kat-nav, road 34 until we join the A81 autobahn. The Germans do not appear to prefix their road numbers with a letter which indicates the type of road. Maybe it is because all of their roads are of excellent quality.

A slight hiccup as we miss our exit and almost end up crossing into Switzerland. This is not deemed a mistake, since, at the point where we turn around there is a Lidl supermarket and we are able to do necessary shopping, then via a slight detour get back on track.

The site is on the shore of the Bodensee (Lake Constance, to us), between Markelfingen and Allensbach, slightly nearer to Markelfingen , with a traffic free cycle track to both.

Facilities are up to the usual high standard you would expect in Germany. There are no English instructions on how to work the washing machine, we learn that “Geld erst einwerfen wenn rote lampe leuchtet!” means “put your money in when the red light comes on”, but not of course until we have put our money in BEFORE the red light came on!. I know we are in Germany, and here they speak German, but, they could give some consideration to those of us whose knowledge of the language is limited to reading the Beano in their childhood, and hence know only "Achtung", "schnell", "swinehunt".


Only problem so far, there does not appear to be a wifi signal at the van, we might have to go to the bar.

A little cycle ride to Allensbach, accompanied by Kathleen, and we find a church, so the coming weekend's church requirements are sorted.


Thursday we wake up to rain, but it is hair washing day, so no real problem.


For the whole day, we have periods of dry followed by heavy downpours, not the weather to risk the carefully dried and straighten hair, so the most we do is a short walk into Markelfingen .


The highlight of the day is another culinary delight rustled up by Kathleen, using the Remoska. This really has been an excellent buy, I cannot understand why no other manufacturer has copied the idea and made a similar product. It is so versatile, a few days ago, I managed to make roast potatoes in it, and today Kathleen has made what she calls an oven omelette, which is like a quiche, without the pastry.


Friday dawns bright and sunny, not quite as hot, but a pleasant 24C will do us.


There is a cycle track right around the Lake, I have been told, it is 230km (144 miles), I cannot talk Kathleen into attempting it, so we settle for something more modest.


After breakfast we set off on our bicycles along the Cycle track to Konstanz. It is (fairly) easy going, a few ups and downs through the undulating countryside, but nothing too strenuous.

Konstanz itself is a slight disappointment, plenty of fine old buildings with murals painted on the wall, but given that it is a town built on a lakeshore, I had expected more of a “waterfront” feel to the place, where in practice the lake does not form a major part of the town.

It is a busy place, with lots of pavement cafes and bars, and lots of people strolling about or sitting in the sun.

Plus of course several fine churches.


We sit among the students on some steps to have our picnic lunch. I thought we fitted in rather well. Kathleen said she thought they would wonder why she had (as a student) had brought her dad (me) with her.


After lunch, we cycle part of the way back the way we had come, until we reach the causeway to Insel Reichenau, a sort of island in the lake.

We peddle along the cycle track, on the causeway, to the island.

Once on the island, it turns out to be quite hilly, which we did not expect. Only a few mutterings of discontent as we peddle along. The intention is to take a ferry back to Allensbach. We have an hour to wait for the ferry, so we indulge in a few beers and some chips at the cafe beside the ferry landing.

The ferry arrives dead on time (well this is Germany), and we find we are the only two passengers, for the short crossing.

We are soon off the ferry at the other side and peddle back along the cycle track to the campsite, to clock up 20 miles.


On our return to the site, we notice there have been quite a few arrivals some to the static caravans around the site, and some towing caravans. As the evening progresses, more and more arrive, it looks as if it is going to be a busy weekend!

One amusing little scene unfolds just beside us. A Swiss family arrive with two small girls (aged about 5 and 7), before their caravan is even unhitched, they are both whizzing around on bicycles!


More rain overnight, by morning it has stopped, but there is thick cloud cover, no blue skies today I fear.

We set off to cycle towards Radolfzell and perhaps beyond.

I think we could easily make it to Stein am Rhein (32km or 20 miles away), but I am out voted.

The cycle tracks are excellent, and it is easy going, we are soon at Radolfzell, where we stop to buy bread.

The cycletrack more or less follows the lakeshore, as we head on past Moos, for the point where the River Rhine leaves the lake.

This made me think that the Bodensee must be the source of the Rhine, but apparently not, the source is (I think) in Switzerland, I will have to look that up, when next I get access to Google.

We cycle through meadows, as I remember they used to be, ie filled with wild flowers of various types (signs of advancing years, talking about how things used to be).

Although the photographs do not show any other people, there are in fact quite a number of cyclists travelling in both directions.

Cycling along the lakeshore is clearly a popular pastime.

We make it as far as a place called Gaienhofen-Horn, which is at the point where the lake begins to taper off into a sort of “v” shaped bay, and then becomes the river Rhine.


We return the way we have come, despite my suggestions that we could keep going to Konstanz, thus, making a circuit of it.

We stop off for lunch at a beer garden beside the cycle track.


This evening, Kathleen goes to church in Allensbach, so with the 23 miles we clock up during the day, plus the 5 miles round trip to the church, that will be almost 30 miles today, quite enough for two pensioners, I am reminded. Plus it begins to rain just before we set out, so we get slightly wet on the way there, and soaked on the way back. I hope the powers that be appreciate the trouble Kathleen takes getting to Mass, and the trouble I go to in helping her get there.


Although going to Switzerland was not really part of our plan, we are so near, it seems silly not to go.


So accordingly on Monday morning (16th May) we check out and head for Interlaken.


I have tried to get into the sat-nav to see if there is anything which can be fixed (I suspect the battery), but my little box of various screwdriver bits does not include one small enough to fit the screws, which means we are still on kat-nav.

I not at liberty to comment, let us just say we got to know a place called Singen pretty well, before we got to the Swiss border. We bought our outrageously priced ticket to allow us to drive on their roads (35 Euro!).

Once in Switzerland it all went smoothly and we found the campsite without a problem, despite an unplanned diversion because of a closed road.


Interlaken-Ost, TCS Camping Interlaken 6, (ACSI2011-717).

We are right beside the waterway connecting the two lakes (Thunersee and Brienzersee), this is the view from our window.

The site is only ten minutes walk from Interlaken, and appears all very organised and clean, Swiss fashion.


The site has WiFi, so we should be able to get online, but I find (at 19:00) the Reception closes at 18:00, so I cannot buy an access code, I will have to wait until tomorrow.


The sun is shining, the weather forecast is for at least two more days of sun and temperatures of 23C, and this being Switzerland, the scenery is stunning.


Switzerland is not part of the Euro-zone, so we have to get some Swiss Francs. When I withdraw 100 Swiss Francs, at a cash machine, it gives me a 100Franc note, equivalent to £75!.

We decide to sit at a pavement bar to have a drink and get change. I anticipate problems trying to pay for two beers with what is effectively a £75 note. The waitress does not even falter and gives me change no problem. This is a seriously expensive place I suspect.

On Tuesday, we cycle to Brienz, which is almost at the other end of the lake (Brienzersee).

It is ten miles (there), and initially I have my doubts we are going to make it.

After only 2 miles (all up hill), Kathleen is asking "how far have we come?".

This is not a good sign. But, I can understand why. When you travel along a road in a car (or campervan), it may appear to be fairly flat. This is because to go up a hill, all you have to do is press a little harder with your right foot. When you have to peddle along the same road, you realise it is most definitely NOT flat, because you have to peddle a lot harder to go up hill!.

We make it to Brienz, without further signs of mutiny, it is a very pretty little place, and we have almost cycled the full length of the lake.

I make an attempt at persuasion to go just that bit further right to the end of the lake, nothing doing.

Here you see Kathleen, with her patient face on, waiting for the waiter to come and take our order for Latte Mochiatta, our present favourite (non-alcoholic) drink.

While here, it is a pity the camera puts only the date, and not the time, on each photograph, you see the transition to impatience, because the waiter has not appeared quickly enough.

I go inside to order, and discover he is having a bad computer day, with receipts spilling out everywhere.

We get our drinks in due course.

Having had a hot drink, and then eaten our picnic lunch, by the lakeside, old persons syndrome strikes of course, a toilet is needed. We find a novel public convenience. The walls are made of glass. From the outside, they are opaque (as you would expect). But once inside, they do not appear to be so opaque, it is rather disconcerting to be standing (or sitting) there doing the necessary, when you feel like the walls may be partially transparent!

We need to visit the supermarket for vegetables, which we do when we return to Interlaken, this place is expensive!