The Road to Berlin

Sunday 15^th September 2013

Leave home, raining, windy, cold, makes you pleased you are going really.

The plan is to have a Sunday Lunch en-route. Being an organised individual, otherwise known as a nerd, I look up several possible places on the internet. Not a very successful venture. We choose one (the Jolly Wagonner, Ardley, Hertfordshire), because we are reasonably near there, at about the time we are about the faint from hunger (ie about 14:00 on Sunday).

The sat nav takes us there, with some false starts, and some rather narrow country lanes, only to find they stopped serving Sunday Lunch, despite the fact that their website says they serve from 12:00 – 19:00.

Undeterred, we find an alternative, “The Bull”, in a village called Cottered, very pleasant Sunday lunch.

As we approach Dover, the weather has become even worse, strong winds and driving rain. The ferries are running late, so, at 19:30, we are boarding the 18:00 sailing, which deposits us in Dunkirk at 21:30 (22:30 French time).

Kathleen surpasses herself by navigating us to Gravelines Aire, in the dark, without the sat-nav or a map. We will never hear the last of this feat.

Monday morning dawns clear and sunny, and we set off for Charlesville de Meziers. Apart from some heavy traffic, on the outskirts of Lille, a completely uneventful drive.

The Aire at Charlesville de Meziers is full, so, we have to use the adjacent campsite (Camping Mount Olympus ).

We have time for a walk into town, and a beer, before the rain starts.

Tuesday morning, still damp and chilly, no, make that cold. We make a leisurely departure. East to Sedan, then north into Belgium, and then east through the Ardennes region of Belgium, into Luxemburg. How I love all of this “open borders” stuff in Europe, no hold ups, no passports to be checked, no customs, travel as it should be.

Soon, we are in Germany, arriving at our next stop, just south of Koblenz, on the banks of the Rhine, at a very picturesque place called Braubach (N50 16’ 11” E7 38’ 50”). This is a Stellplatz, German style, electric hook up, shower, toilets, etc, all beautifully kept, for 7 Euro/night.  

We are there early enough to get a riverside spot. I was never really aware of being nautically inclined, but, I love to watch boats or ships coming and going. Here, I have a ringside seat as Rhine Cruise boats and barges sail past at regular intervals. I think it is the wanderlust in me.

Pity the sun is not shining.

We are parked next to a very flash Concorde Motorhome, about the size of a small bus! It turns out, the lady of the outfit was born in South Shields. Is there no escape? In the course of out chat, we get useful pointers on where to stay in Berlin.

Wednesday 18^th September 2013. It is pouring with rain. So, pretty as it is here, if you cannot get out and enjoy it for the rain, there is not much point in sitting here. So, we head off for Kassel.

Kathleen has picked out a Stellplatze, which is (according to the book) a Country and Western Music venue, sounds interesting. According to photographs in the book, it all looks very "authentic", wild west style. But, when we arrive, it turns out to be a rather dilapidated farm, no other campervans in sight, a couple of old cars chocked up on bricks, and a very battered caravan. We decide against staying!

We move on to the second choice, still in Kassel, another Stellplatze. Rather more appealing, but, almost campsite prices (ie 12.50Euro, plus 50 cents Kw/Hr for electricity). So, we decide we may as well go to a campsite. We push on for another 35 miles (well maybe 40 after we have fallen foul of the tricky German double exits, yet again).

We arrive at Eschwege, Knaus Campingpark (N51 11’ 29” E10 10’ 7”), an ASCI site, so, 16 Euro gets us all facilities. The rain stops, the sun comes out to give us a very pleasant evening.

Thursday 19th September 2103.

One of those crucial days, hair washing, straightening etc, I stay out of the way for a couple of hours. It has only taken me 25 years to learn that is the wisest course of action.

It is dry and mild, with a little sun, so, we have a walk into the pretty town of Eschwege.

Very German, but, just the kind of town I like, not too many clothes shops to stand outside of whilst Kathleen looks at exactly the same things she could buy back in the UK, but, plenty of places with cakes, coffee, bars, and food.

I buy a Vodaphone (Germany) SIM, so I can get on the Internet, then find somewhere for lunch.

What a hard life this is.

Thursday 6th June 2013 - Tuesday 11th June 2013

Marboue (N48 6.744' E1 19.722'). Another Aire. Toilets and emptying facilities for free, but Electricity and Water are chargeable (Electricity 2Euro for 55 minutes, extortion!). There is space for about ten vans, and, by evening it is full. Not surprising really, it is a very pleasant spot, on the banks of the River Loir and off the busy main road (N10).

It is here, I find, the helpful French people at Uzerche did not do the internet registration correctly, so, I have no internet. I try the French couple parked next to us. They fiddle about with it, but, seem to think it has not worked.

I cycle the 2 miles back down the road to McDonalds, to use their Wifi to do my essential banking transaction.

When I get back, I fiddle around some more with the Orange SIM card, suddenly, it works, problem is, I do not know what I did to make it work!

Turns out, that was a false alarm, still not working!

An early start on Friday (well 09:00), and we are in Neufchatel-en-Bray by lunch time, for our regular stop over at Camping St Clair.

This place just gets better and better, but, the downside of that is, it is becoming very popular. A queue of campervans and caravans waiting to check in when we arrive!

We will have to stop recommending the place!

I find my Orange-France SIM card is not working after all, this is beginning to be very irritating!

Fortunately, there is an Orange Shop in the town, and the problem is soon sorted. It would appear you cannot register a top up from a non-French telephone number.

Only a one night stay, we linger until just before lunch time and then we are on our way towards Calais.

Picnic, French motorway Aire style.

Toilets, plenty of parking, neatly mown grass, no litter, picnic tables provided, and, sunshine of course.

But, the French do not get everything right... we arrive at Gravelines to find it is almost empty, clearly levelling a charge of 6Euro per night, with no facilities except parking has driven people away.

A lesson to Politicians everywhere, if you drive up the price, you do not necessarily increase the income!

We amuse ourselves by watching the street entertainment from a pavement bar. 

Next morning, the plan is to have breakfast as we wait in the boarding queue for "Le Shuttle", but, we are whisked onto an earlier train, before we have even had time to have breakfast!

Once in Dover, it is a short, and almost traffic free (well it is only 8:00 Sunday morning!) drive to the Caravan and Camping Club site at St Neots, to meet up with Gary, Susana and Gabriel.

Here are the "boys", it was both Gary, and Gabriel's birthday, a few days ago (June 2nd and 3rd respectively), so, this is a belated "birthday meeting", plus, Gabriel and Susana plan to return to Baku with Gary next weekend.

Our last chance to see them for a while.

Gabriel has grown a lot since I last saw him, and his talking has come on leaps and bounds (in both English and Spanish).

He is currently fascinated by spiders and their webs.

Here he is studying a spider in it's web, you can just see the spider above and to the left of his right eyebrow!

We visit Cambridge, and take the obligatory trip in a punt, but, not even a family of swans can keep Gabriel awake!

Tuesday 4th June 2013 - Thursday 6th June 2013

Our very pleasant elderly French neighbour departs this morning. Unfortunately, we do not speak enough French to have a meaningful conversation, but, it would appear, she is travelling around France alone, in a very elderly Renault van conversion. Full marks to her!

Kathleen indulges in an orgy of clothes washing, which in turn keeps me busy fetching and carrying water, putting up clothes line etc.

I discover, there is a Pizza restaurant and take-away in the town!

After lunch, we cycle along the cycle track from the Aire.

The countryside is quite beautiful, aided by the fact it is a sunny day.

Although the cycle track / footpath is an old railway line, it goes steadily uphill, and for a railway line, the gradient is quite steep.


I mention to Kathleen that, steam

engines must have struggled up this gradient. Her answer "yes, well, this 66 year old is struggling up this gradient too!".

Something tells me, I am going to have difficulty coaxing Kathleen into doing ten miles along this route.

I am quick like that.

But, trading on Kathleen's love for

numbers and order, I manage to coax 6.5 miles along the route, by the simple expedient of only telling her how far we have gone, when we are just at a part number (eg 4.5, 5.5 etc), this works until 6.5, but, no further.

We reach an idyllic little place called Saint-Jal.

Here, there is a Campsite or Aire, I am not sure, the place was deserted, but, there are Electric Hook up points, Toilets, Showers, and refuse disposal. Saint-Jal (N45.399168 E1.645556).

Sadly, there is not a little bar selling cold beer (or Rose).

Kathleen's only reward for peddling 6.5 miles, uphill, in the heat of the afternoon, on a rather bumpy cycle track, without a word of complaint, is a drink of water, whilst taking in the view.

Followed of course, by 6.5 miles of more or less freewheeling, back down

the track, to the Aire at Uzerche.

While Kathleen rests with a cold beer or two, and sunbathes, I decide to top up my Orange-France "Lets Go" internet. I manage the procedure at the Tabac, without too much difficulty. But, dealing with the automated process (in French of course) of registering my top-up, defeats me.

Fortunately some French Campervanners, on the Aire, understand enough of my Pigeon French, to do the deed on my behalf, at least, we both hope they have!

Turns out, they have not. I ask you, if even French people cannot understand the automated telephone service used to register the top up, how do they expect me to?

Wednesday, we leave, and still heading north drive to LHommaize (N46 26.101' E0 35.811').

This is a pleasant little Aire, behind the Town Hall and just far enough off the busy N147 to be quiet.

There is space for about 10 vans, but, only two Electric Hookup points (unmetered), with water and usual emptying facilities (all free).

There are also cared for toilets in the main square, and a very novel "bio toilet" in the nearby children's play park, complete with diagram of how it all works. Kathleen cannot resist using it. I am getting worried, she is becoming obsessed with toilets, even worse than her sister, Joan.

We have a little explore of the village, and spot this rather pink house!

The person who lives there, just has to be a fan of Barbie dolls!

Needless, to say, there is an imposing church, every French village seems to have one, along with a well cared for Town Hall.

As we return from supporting the local businesses (ie the local bar), we are joined by another English couple, in a campervan, so, we will have company for the evening.

Thursday, off and away, bright and early. We are aiming to be just south of Chartres for our next stop.

It is another beautiful sunny day, the journey is painless, apart from ploughing through Tours.

We are heading for an Aire at Marboue (N48 6.744' E1 19.722') , but, for future reference, we pass several Aires as we travel along the N147 and N10.










 

Saturday 1st June 2013 - Monday 3rd June 2013

Weather is dismal, blowing a gale as we leave Trebes.

On to Salles sur L’Hers (N43 17.533' E1 47.233'). An Aire with two unmetered Electric points,

Fresh Water and usual waste disposal.

We are initially the only van there, but, we are soon joined by four  French vans. A nice quiet spot, adjacent to the Sports Stadium (how can a tiny French village support a sports stadium with floodlit Football field, Basket Ball court, Tennis Court, and a two story club house?)

There is a little plaque on the Service

Point, telling you, the facilities are free, and asking you in turn, to support the local businesses.

We did our bit, but, the only place which was open was the Village Bar/cafe.

Sunday morning, Kathleen goes to church, whilst I continue to support the village bar/cafe, and make use of their free wifi to attempt to contact son, Gary, on Skype, to wish him happy birthday.

 After church, we are on our way north again.

A very pleasant drive, mostly along the N113, which runs alongside the Canal di Midi for a lot of the way, past Toulouse and on to just outside Cahors.

 Arcabal (N44 27.412' E1 30.966'), approximately 5 miles outside Cahors. A pleasant spot, beside the Marie (Town Hall).

Weather has improved, it is summer again!

Plenty to do, if you feel  energetic, boules courts, tennis courts, basket ball court, children's play area, plus of course a football field.

Usual services for waste, fresh water, and electricity (2Euro for one hour, not very attractive!). There is a tap, but, we are uncertain of the waters provenance. Some French boule players drink it. Later, Kathleen points a passing German cyclist in the direction of the tap, when he is looking for water. Everyone seems to survive the experience.

Amazingly, given we are right next to the Town Hall, there is no Wifi signal, so, a trip to the McDonalds in Cahors is necessary, to make my Skype call to Gary.

Monday, north again, to Uzerche (N45 25.471' E1 33.968').

This is a real find.

Space for 20 vans, but, by evening there are 22 in there!

There are free electric hook ups, 40 according to the Aires Guide. I did not count them, but, unless you have a very long hook up cable, you may, like us, have to share. No problem however, a very kind elderly French lady (in an equally elderly van), very kindly offered

to share a hook up point with us. We will just have to hope that both she and Kathleen do not want to use their hairdryers at the same time.

The aire is on the site of the former Railway Station (long ago closed by a French version of Dr Beeching). The station building houses toilets, unisex of course, as the French do.

The former railway line, is now a gravelled footpath / cycle track, heading off in two directions, so, weather permitting that is tomorrows entertainment.

The town of Uzerche (at least the old part), is a revelation, beautifully preserved buildings, some dating back to the 1100's ! 

The only disappointment is, we had planned to have Pizza this evening (either take away or eat-in), but, there does not appear to be a Pizza shop!

There is, however, a very nice square, with a Bar-Tabac.

Unfortunately, my Orange-France SIM card lets me down, my Skype call to grandson, Gabriel, to see him on his 3rd birthday, is such a poor connection, we get no video, and precious little sound!

The other disaster of the day, is, our toilet in the van is broken.

The problem is with the Cassette. The Orange-France connection is at least

good enough to allow me to download instructions and DIY "how to fix it" tips from the Thetford website.

I learn enough to know, I am not going to be able to fix it until we get home, and I can buy spare parts.

Wednesday 29th May 2013 - Friday 31st May 2013

Just to show, a bit of sun makes all of the difference, here is a photograph of the Aire at Narbonne, from more or less the same spot as in the last post, but, without the torrential rain!

Thursday, we leave to move to Trebes, which is only 4 miles along the Canal du Midi, from Carcassonne.

It is only a short drive, and we arrive around lunch time at A l'Ombre des Microcouliers (N43 12' 24" E2 26' 31"), just in time for the rain to start.

It rains solidly from 13:00 on Thursday and is still raining as I write this, 10:00 Friday!. The campsite is right next to the River Aude, and we, are right on the river bank.

Kathleen is amusing herself by watching the debris (bits of tree etc) being swept along in the river, and wondering, how long it will be before the river is high enough to flood where we are sitting.

She is such an optimist.

The rain stops long enough for us to walk into Trebes.

Perhaps, Kathleen is right to be concerned, the river is flowing very fast through the arches of the bridge, and, there is lots of debris in it.

Once the "finding of the church" is accomplished, Kathleen's thoughts turn to having her hair cut, coloured etc.

We find a hair dresser, who is able to do the deed "toute suite", so, Kathleen entrusts herself to her, whilst I wander off to amuse myself.

I think Kathleen is very brave actually, the hairdresser speaks virtually no English. We have, with our pigeon French, managed to establish that it can be done immediately, and that it will be finished at 12:30. But, communication of hairdressing technicalities is going to be "interesting".

The hair dresser, although she probably does not know it, is even more brave, because I would not like to be in her shoes, if she messes up!

In the meantime, the sun makes a brief appearance.

Kathleen emerges at the appointed time, lighter by 50 Euro, hair cut.

The plan was, while we were here, to cycle along the Canal du Midi to Carcassonne, given the weather, that does not seem a very likely option!

Saturday 25th May 2013 - Tuesday 28th May 2013

Collioure, Camping Les Almondiers continued.....

Saturday, and Kathleen is washing her hair. The site's "Frenchness" ie shabby chic, has been a plus point, but, there is no hot water in the hand basins, the novelty has worn off!

The recommendations of the French Lady we met in Valencia count for nothing.

I decide to walk into the town (Collioure) to buy some bread.

It is a beautiful little place, so, I assume the French Ladies recommendations were more to do with the town, than the actual campsite.

Bread bought, I fail in my second task, ie to find the church, but, I do explore enough to be pretty sure there is an easier way to get to town than walking along the road.

After lunch, we set off again, and sure enough, just to the left as you approach the town, there are a flight of steps, alongside some houses, which provide a short cut into town.

The route jiggles about a little, but, basically, is not difficult to find, if you remember you just have to keep heading down hill.

This is much shorter, prettier, and quieter, than the route I took this morning, which simply followed the main road into town.

We do our exploring, find the church, establish the time for Mass (18:00 Sunday).

By chance, we meet our Scottish neighbours, who, earlier, had set off on their first ever ride on their new Yamaha motor scooter. Obviously, they survived the experience.

We then retire to a café on the harbour, to sit in the sun, savouring a glass or two of Rose Wine.

This is what I love about France!

We return to the site, to find, there have been lots of new arrivals since we left to go to town, the place is bursting at the seams!

On our way back, I cannot resist this road sign, one especially for our

friends "The Cricks" (aka Bryan and Joan).

Third place name down, it must be their summer residence.

Church, when we find it, is right on the waters edge, so, that is Kathleen's venue for !8:00 on Sunday evening.

Usually we would have lunch out on Sunday, but, given the late time for Church on Sunday, this event is postponed to Monday, when we have an excellent lunch (marred only by Kathleen's complaints, that a litre of Rose is too much at lunch time, I thought it washed the Moules down a treat).

Tuesday, we leave Collioure, but, not before checking out the Aire nearby. The Aire (N43 46.733' E6 43.997') is excellent, 10Euro/24 hours, but, that includes Electricity, and Toilets, plus usual services, and there is a shuttle bus to the town.

Next, we check out Port Vendres, about 4 miles South, another good Aire (N42 31.063' E3 6.815'), 5.50Euro/night, no electric, but has Toilets. On edge of town, near the harbour, but, unfortunately, no view of the harbour.

Finally, we arrive an Narbonne, or, to be more precise La Narbonette, an Aire with Electric Hook up, about five minutes easy walk from the centre of Narbonne.

Very organised. Not cheap at 7Euro/24 hours, plus an extra 2Euro for Water/Chemical Toilet Emptying.

As we arrive, the heavens open, I get soaked, just opening the barrier to get in! (Kathleen cannot do it, her hair may frizz).

Tuesday 21st May 2013 - Friday 24th May 2013

Tuesday, enroute again, past Tarragona and on to Sitges, just a little south of Barcelona.

Sitges, El Garroter (N41 14'1" E1 46'52").

When we arrive, it is sunny, but, it is obvious, there has been significant rainfall here, recently.

We are soon greeted by a pessimistic caravanner from Bournemouth. It has been raining for days he tells us, Cold as well, worst spring in Europe for ten years. It is going to be like that until at least Friday. Have we heard about all of the break-ins further south .... etc etc

Fortunately, I am rescued by a summons from Kathleen, lunch is ready, before I have finished fashioning the noose.

From the campsite, it is a short walk to the coast.

Wednesday, Kathleen is admonished by the Campsite "Guardian" for putting a washing line between two trees, (it was me who put the line up, obviously), and hanging her washing out.

Our pessimistic neighbour saves the day, by loaning her, his clothes dryer rack.

After lunch, we explore the full length of the beach area of Sitges, it is very smart, to the point of looking more like the South of France, than Spain.

It is one of the few (perhaps even the only) place in Spain, where  we have been, where everything looks clean and finished off!

Needless to say, after such a long stroll, it is necessary to have a refreshing Gin and Tonic.

As we wander through the old town, (me looking for a cash machine), Kathleen is given the "soft sell" by the proprietor of a Beauty Salon.

He has a few good lines, starting with "what beautiful eyes you have, you shouldn't hide them behind sunglasses".

Good try, I would say, but, not enough to extract 50Euro from Kathleen for the "Dead Sea Salt Treatment". She beats him down to 15Euro, and then does not buy it anyway!

When we get back to the Campsite, a lone motorcyclist arrived. It turns out, he is 74 years old! His journey this year has taken him on a circular route, Calais to Biarritz, south to Spain to Gibraltar, now, heading back north again. He has ridden 500 miles today alone. Some people really are amazing!

Thursday, cycling along the coast, rounded off with lunch in Sitges, finishing with Brandy and Cointreau.

I know when it is time to call it a day, when Kathleen (telling me about her plans to visit a Bodega, we have been to before), gets the words mixed up, and says she wants to visit a Bordello, which is a very different kind of establishment.

Friday, and we head for St Pere d'Pescadore, but, when we arrive we find

St Pere d’ Pescadore, is very busy, German contingent of wind surfers.

The weather is cool and very windy, so, the decision is taken to skip this one and head for France.

We pause for lunch, then drive the additional 50 miles into France, to Collioure, Camping Les Almondiers (N42 31’53” E3 4’18”). An ASCII site, at 16 Euro/night.

This was a recommendation from a French lady, who Kathleen was chatting to in Valencia.

Not quite what we were expecting, from the description. Very French (ie quirky), in a secluded valley, opening onto a small bay with beach. Everything is there, but, nothing is where you would expect it to be. For a start Reception is at the furthest point from the entrance gate!