Tuesday 4th June 2013 - Thursday 6th June 2013

Our very pleasant elderly French neighbour departs this morning. Unfortunately, we do not speak enough French to have a meaningful conversation, but, it would appear, she is travelling around France alone, in a very elderly Renault van conversion. Full marks to her!

Kathleen indulges in an orgy of clothes washing, which in turn keeps me busy fetching and carrying water, putting up clothes line etc.

I discover, there is a Pizza restaurant and take-away in the town!

After lunch, we cycle along the cycle track from the Aire.

The countryside is quite beautiful, aided by the fact it is a sunny day.

Although the cycle track / footpath is an old railway line, it goes steadily uphill, and for a railway line, the gradient is quite steep.


I mention to Kathleen that, steam

engines must have struggled up this gradient. Her answer "yes, well, this 66 year old is struggling up this gradient too!".

Something tells me, I am going to have difficulty coaxing Kathleen into doing ten miles along this route.

I am quick like that.

But, trading on Kathleen's love for

numbers and order, I manage to coax 6.5 miles along the route, by the simple expedient of only telling her how far we have gone, when we are just at a part number (eg 4.5, 5.5 etc), this works until 6.5, but, no further.

We reach an idyllic little place called Saint-Jal.

Here, there is a Campsite or Aire, I am not sure, the place was deserted, but, there are Electric Hook up points, Toilets, Showers, and refuse disposal. Saint-Jal (N45.399168 E1.645556).

Sadly, there is not a little bar selling cold beer (or Rose).

Kathleen's only reward for peddling 6.5 miles, uphill, in the heat of the afternoon, on a rather bumpy cycle track, without a word of complaint, is a drink of water, whilst taking in the view.

Followed of course, by 6.5 miles of more or less freewheeling, back down

the track, to the Aire at Uzerche.

While Kathleen rests with a cold beer or two, and sunbathes, I decide to top up my Orange-France "Lets Go" internet. I manage the procedure at the Tabac, without too much difficulty. But, dealing with the automated process (in French of course) of registering my top-up, defeats me.

Fortunately some French Campervanners, on the Aire, understand enough of my Pigeon French, to do the deed on my behalf, at least, we both hope they have!

Turns out, they have not. I ask you, if even French people cannot understand the automated telephone service used to register the top up, how do they expect me to?

Wednesday, we leave, and still heading north drive to LHommaize (N46 26.101' E0 35.811').

This is a pleasant little Aire, behind the Town Hall and just far enough off the busy N147 to be quiet.

There is space for about 10 vans, but, only two Electric Hookup points (unmetered), with water and usual emptying facilities (all free).

There are also cared for toilets in the main square, and a very novel "bio toilet" in the nearby children's play park, complete with diagram of how it all works. Kathleen cannot resist using it. I am getting worried, she is becoming obsessed with toilets, even worse than her sister, Joan.

We have a little explore of the village, and spot this rather pink house!

The person who lives there, just has to be a fan of Barbie dolls!

Needless, to say, there is an imposing church, every French village seems to have one, along with a well cared for Town Hall.

As we return from supporting the local businesses (ie the local bar), we are joined by another English couple, in a campervan, so, we will have company for the evening.

Thursday, off and away, bright and early. We are aiming to be just south of Chartres for our next stop.

It is another beautiful sunny day, the journey is painless, apart from ploughing through Tours.

We are heading for an Aire at Marboue (N48 6.744' E1 19.722') , but, for future reference, we pass several Aires as we travel along the N147 and N10.










 

Saturday 1st June 2013 - Monday 3rd June 2013

Weather is dismal, blowing a gale as we leave Trebes.

On to Salles sur L’Hers (N43 17.533' E1 47.233'). An Aire with two unmetered Electric points,

Fresh Water and usual waste disposal.

We are initially the only van there, but, we are soon joined by four  French vans. A nice quiet spot, adjacent to the Sports Stadium (how can a tiny French village support a sports stadium with floodlit Football field, Basket Ball court, Tennis Court, and a two story club house?)

There is a little plaque on the Service

Point, telling you, the facilities are free, and asking you in turn, to support the local businesses.

We did our bit, but, the only place which was open was the Village Bar/cafe.

Sunday morning, Kathleen goes to church, whilst I continue to support the village bar/cafe, and make use of their free wifi to attempt to contact son, Gary, on Skype, to wish him happy birthday.

 After church, we are on our way north again.

A very pleasant drive, mostly along the N113, which runs alongside the Canal di Midi for a lot of the way, past Toulouse and on to just outside Cahors.

 Arcabal (N44 27.412' E1 30.966'), approximately 5 miles outside Cahors. A pleasant spot, beside the Marie (Town Hall).

Weather has improved, it is summer again!

Plenty to do, if you feel  energetic, boules courts, tennis courts, basket ball court, children's play area, plus of course a football field.

Usual services for waste, fresh water, and electricity (2Euro for one hour, not very attractive!). There is a tap, but, we are uncertain of the waters provenance. Some French boule players drink it. Later, Kathleen points a passing German cyclist in the direction of the tap, when he is looking for water. Everyone seems to survive the experience.

Amazingly, given we are right next to the Town Hall, there is no Wifi signal, so, a trip to the McDonalds in Cahors is necessary, to make my Skype call to Gary.

Monday, north again, to Uzerche (N45 25.471' E1 33.968').

This is a real find.

Space for 20 vans, but, by evening there are 22 in there!

There are free electric hook ups, 40 according to the Aires Guide. I did not count them, but, unless you have a very long hook up cable, you may, like us, have to share. No problem however, a very kind elderly French lady (in an equally elderly van), very kindly offered

to share a hook up point with us. We will just have to hope that both she and Kathleen do not want to use their hairdryers at the same time.

The aire is on the site of the former Railway Station (long ago closed by a French version of Dr Beeching). The station building houses toilets, unisex of course, as the French do.

The former railway line, is now a gravelled footpath / cycle track, heading off in two directions, so, weather permitting that is tomorrows entertainment.

The town of Uzerche (at least the old part), is a revelation, beautifully preserved buildings, some dating back to the 1100's ! 

The only disappointment is, we had planned to have Pizza this evening (either take away or eat-in), but, there does not appear to be a Pizza shop!

There is, however, a very nice square, with a Bar-Tabac.

Unfortunately, my Orange-France SIM card lets me down, my Skype call to grandson, Gabriel, to see him on his 3rd birthday, is such a poor connection, we get no video, and precious little sound!

The other disaster of the day, is, our toilet in the van is broken.

The problem is with the Cassette. The Orange-France connection is at least

good enough to allow me to download instructions and DIY "how to fix it" tips from the Thetford website.

I learn enough to know, I am not going to be able to fix it until we get home, and I can buy spare parts.

Wednesday 29th May 2013 - Friday 31st May 2013

Just to show, a bit of sun makes all of the difference, here is a photograph of the Aire at Narbonne, from more or less the same spot as in the last post, but, without the torrential rain!

Thursday, we leave to move to Trebes, which is only 4 miles along the Canal du Midi, from Carcassonne.

It is only a short drive, and we arrive around lunch time at A l'Ombre des Microcouliers (N43 12' 24" E2 26' 31"), just in time for the rain to start.

It rains solidly from 13:00 on Thursday and is still raining as I write this, 10:00 Friday!. The campsite is right next to the River Aude, and we, are right on the river bank.

Kathleen is amusing herself by watching the debris (bits of tree etc) being swept along in the river, and wondering, how long it will be before the river is high enough to flood where we are sitting.

She is such an optimist.

The rain stops long enough for us to walk into Trebes.

Perhaps, Kathleen is right to be concerned, the river is flowing very fast through the arches of the bridge, and, there is lots of debris in it.

Once the "finding of the church" is accomplished, Kathleen's thoughts turn to having her hair cut, coloured etc.

We find a hair dresser, who is able to do the deed "toute suite", so, Kathleen entrusts herself to her, whilst I wander off to amuse myself.

I think Kathleen is very brave actually, the hairdresser speaks virtually no English. We have, with our pigeon French, managed to establish that it can be done immediately, and that it will be finished at 12:30. But, communication of hairdressing technicalities is going to be "interesting".

The hair dresser, although she probably does not know it, is even more brave, because I would not like to be in her shoes, if she messes up!

In the meantime, the sun makes a brief appearance.

Kathleen emerges at the appointed time, lighter by 50 Euro, hair cut.

The plan was, while we were here, to cycle along the Canal du Midi to Carcassonne, given the weather, that does not seem a very likely option!

Saturday 25th May 2013 - Tuesday 28th May 2013

Collioure, Camping Les Almondiers continued.....

Saturday, and Kathleen is washing her hair. The site's "Frenchness" ie shabby chic, has been a plus point, but, there is no hot water in the hand basins, the novelty has worn off!

The recommendations of the French Lady we met in Valencia count for nothing.

I decide to walk into the town (Collioure) to buy some bread.

It is a beautiful little place, so, I assume the French Ladies recommendations were more to do with the town, than the actual campsite.

Bread bought, I fail in my second task, ie to find the church, but, I do explore enough to be pretty sure there is an easier way to get to town than walking along the road.

After lunch, we set off again, and sure enough, just to the left as you approach the town, there are a flight of steps, alongside some houses, which provide a short cut into town.

The route jiggles about a little, but, basically, is not difficult to find, if you remember you just have to keep heading down hill.

This is much shorter, prettier, and quieter, than the route I took this morning, which simply followed the main road into town.

We do our exploring, find the church, establish the time for Mass (18:00 Sunday).

By chance, we meet our Scottish neighbours, who, earlier, had set off on their first ever ride on their new Yamaha motor scooter. Obviously, they survived the experience.

We then retire to a café on the harbour, to sit in the sun, savouring a glass or two of Rose Wine.

This is what I love about France!

We return to the site, to find, there have been lots of new arrivals since we left to go to town, the place is bursting at the seams!

On our way back, I cannot resist this road sign, one especially for our

friends "The Cricks" (aka Bryan and Joan).

Third place name down, it must be their summer residence.

Church, when we find it, is right on the waters edge, so, that is Kathleen's venue for !8:00 on Sunday evening.

Usually we would have lunch out on Sunday, but, given the late time for Church on Sunday, this event is postponed to Monday, when we have an excellent lunch (marred only by Kathleen's complaints, that a litre of Rose is too much at lunch time, I thought it washed the Moules down a treat).

Tuesday, we leave Collioure, but, not before checking out the Aire nearby. The Aire (N43 46.733' E6 43.997') is excellent, 10Euro/24 hours, but, that includes Electricity, and Toilets, plus usual services, and there is a shuttle bus to the town.

Next, we check out Port Vendres, about 4 miles South, another good Aire (N42 31.063' E3 6.815'), 5.50Euro/night, no electric, but has Toilets. On edge of town, near the harbour, but, unfortunately, no view of the harbour.

Finally, we arrive an Narbonne, or, to be more precise La Narbonette, an Aire with Electric Hook up, about five minutes easy walk from the centre of Narbonne.

Very organised. Not cheap at 7Euro/24 hours, plus an extra 2Euro for Water/Chemical Toilet Emptying.

As we arrive, the heavens open, I get soaked, just opening the barrier to get in! (Kathleen cannot do it, her hair may frizz).

Tuesday 21st May 2013 - Friday 24th May 2013

Tuesday, enroute again, past Tarragona and on to Sitges, just a little south of Barcelona.

Sitges, El Garroter (N41 14'1" E1 46'52").

When we arrive, it is sunny, but, it is obvious, there has been significant rainfall here, recently.

We are soon greeted by a pessimistic caravanner from Bournemouth. It has been raining for days he tells us, Cold as well, worst spring in Europe for ten years. It is going to be like that until at least Friday. Have we heard about all of the break-ins further south .... etc etc

Fortunately, I am rescued by a summons from Kathleen, lunch is ready, before I have finished fashioning the noose.

From the campsite, it is a short walk to the coast.

Wednesday, Kathleen is admonished by the Campsite "Guardian" for putting a washing line between two trees, (it was me who put the line up, obviously), and hanging her washing out.

Our pessimistic neighbour saves the day, by loaning her, his clothes dryer rack.

After lunch, we explore the full length of the beach area of Sitges, it is very smart, to the point of looking more like the South of France, than Spain.

It is one of the few (perhaps even the only) place in Spain, where  we have been, where everything looks clean and finished off!

Needless to say, after such a long stroll, it is necessary to have a refreshing Gin and Tonic.

As we wander through the old town, (me looking for a cash machine), Kathleen is given the "soft sell" by the proprietor of a Beauty Salon.

He has a few good lines, starting with "what beautiful eyes you have, you shouldn't hide them behind sunglasses".

Good try, I would say, but, not enough to extract 50Euro from Kathleen for the "Dead Sea Salt Treatment". She beats him down to 15Euro, and then does not buy it anyway!

When we get back to the Campsite, a lone motorcyclist arrived. It turns out, he is 74 years old! His journey this year has taken him on a circular route, Calais to Biarritz, south to Spain to Gibraltar, now, heading back north again. He has ridden 500 miles today alone. Some people really are amazing!

Thursday, cycling along the coast, rounded off with lunch in Sitges, finishing with Brandy and Cointreau.

I know when it is time to call it a day, when Kathleen (telling me about her plans to visit a Bodega, we have been to before), gets the words mixed up, and says she wants to visit a Bordello, which is a very different kind of establishment.

Friday, and we head for St Pere d'Pescadore, but, when we arrive we find

St Pere d’ Pescadore, is very busy, German contingent of wind surfers.

The weather is cool and very windy, so, the decision is taken to skip this one and head for France.

We pause for lunch, then drive the additional 50 miles into France, to Collioure, Camping Les Almondiers (N42 31’53” E3 4’18”). An ASCII site, at 16 Euro/night.

This was a recommendation from a French lady, who Kathleen was chatting to in Valencia.

Not quite what we were expecting, from the description. Very French (ie quirky), in a secluded valley, opening onto a small bay with beach. Everything is there, but, nothing is where you would expect it to be. For a start Reception is at the furthest point from the entrance gate!

Thursday 16th May 2013 - Monday 20th May 2013

Valencia, Pinedo, Coll Vert (N39 23'47" W0 19' 58")...continued......

Thursday, we skip the historic buildings bit, and cycle the whole of the Jardines del Turia Park.

It is amazingly well organised, with a cycle track circling the whole park. They even have speed "cameras" for bicycles!

Kathleen is being a good cyclist and keeping within the speed limit, as the smiley face shows!

I even get a photograph of the purple blossom on the trees.








Sunday, so, it is "going to church day".

We cycle into Valencia, where there is a Mass at the Cathederal, every hour on Sunday Mornings, clearly, either no shortage of Catholic Priests here, or, they work longer hours.

I am told, it is Pentecost Sunday, which might explain the hectic "goings on" in Valencia.

First we emerge from the Turia Park, at the Royal Bridge, to find, we cannot cross the road into the city centre, because there is a Valencian version of the Great North Run going on. Much to Kathleen's irritation, we must go back down the ramp to the park, and back up another ramp, on the other side of the road. 

We soon notice, in addition to the run, there are several women, and men, dressed in rather exotic traditional costumes.

While Kathleen is at church, I wander the streets and manage this rather poor photgraph of some of them.

In a square near the church, there are literally hundreds of tables and chairs set out, along with a couple of

childrens bouncy castles, and some VERY loud music.

This is presumably going to be a mammoth Paella cooking and eating party, this group are setting up to begin cooking giant paella in the street.

When Kathleen emerges from church, we wander among the crowds for a while, before cycling back to the campsite.

Enroute, we stop off for a beer or two. Two major achievements occur, first, I convince Kathleen to try one of the "snacks" on offer, she agrees to try "Patatas Bravas", if I can order it without the Mayonnaise, I cannot get her to try the Calamary, so, I am forced to eat that all to myself. The second achievement, is, I manage to speak to the waitress, in Spanish, and obtain Patatas Bravas, without mayonnaise.

Leave Valencia and head North (on our way slowly home now), toward Peniscola.

We have chosen two possible Aires from the Spain and Portugal Aires book, La Moreras (N40 23.398’ E0 24.607’), and La  Mersera (N40 23.876’ E0 24.758’), both in Peniscola, within half a mile of each other, and, both are closed, defunct.

In addition, the approach to La Moreras is more suited to a 4x4, than a campervan!.

Not to worry, there are other Aires signposted, and we end up at Viz Mar, Peniscola (N40 23’32” E0 24’25”), 10Euro a night including Electric, toilets, showers etc, or 6Euro per night, no electric. This is a sort of Aire, attached to a campsite. It is not clear to me what the difference is between the Aire and the Campsite (which is in the ACSI book).

The campsite is only about 50 yards from an excellent cycle track, which takes you onto the promenade at Peniscola.

At one end is an old castle, which, presumably was the original Peniscola, ie, before tourism.

Six miles north, and the promenade is still going on, although, not quite finished at this point!

So, that gives more than 12 miles of easy cycling!

In the evening, our Belgian neighbour gives an impromptu Spanish Guitar recital, in between barbequing the evening meal, for himself and his wife.

When commenting on Campsites, or Aires, people often remark on things like traffic noise, church bells, etc.

Well, let me tell you, a Donkey in the field next to the campsite is a big turn off.

They make an incredibly annoying noise!

You have been warned!

Monday 13th May 2013 - Wednesday 15th May 2013

Monday, leave Gandia, and drive the 50 miles or so to Valencia.

Valencia, Pinedo, Coll Vert (N39 23'47" W0 19' 58"), is extremely well placed for visiting Valencia, you can cycle there, on a dedicated cycle track (about 4 miles), or, get the bus from just outside the campsite.

Tuesday, it is raining when we wake up!

But, by the time breakfast is over, the sun is out again, and off we go to Valencia on our bicycles.

First along the beach, then past the container port, we are soon in the "Jardin del Turia".

This area of Valencia is amazing.

It was formerly the course of the River Turia. But, after several disasterous floods, the river was diverted, (in the 1960's or thereabouts), and the old river bed, which cuts through the middle of the city, has been converted into a park area.

At the end nearest the sea, they have built many enormous modern buildings, including an enormous aquarium.

The area is laid out with footpaths and cycletracks, plus, water features and fountains.

All very people friendly, although, personally, I prefer the park area, which is criss crossed with bridges,

from the days when it was a river.

The traffic passes above, while you can make your way right through the heart of the city, either on foot, or on a bicycle.

It is not really what I would call a "formal" park, although it is kept very neat and tidy, considering it's city centre location.

There are some quite stunning displays of flowers.

Also, some rather impressive displays of trees in bloom, spring is clearly the best time to see them.

But, you will have to take my word for it, because, I omitted to take a photograph.

Another feature, which we have seen

in other parts of Spain, is the provision of free exercise equipment, for public use, in the parks, and even in the streets.

Kathleen cannot resist having a go.

These areas appear to much used, but do not appear to be abused or vandalised, as you would expect in the UK.

Of course, given that Valencia dates back to Roman times, there is an "old quarter".

Not much evidence of Roman buildings, that I am aware of, but, lots of the narrow streets and courtyards which I believe are a legacy of the Moors.

There is of course, an impressive Cathederal, which incorporates parts of an earlier Mosque.

The Germans might have paid for all of the smart new buildings, with their Euro, but, I think the inside of the Cathederal must have been paid for by the Aztecs and Incas, when the

Spaniards plundered the "New World".

We stop for lunch, and Kathleen, not the most adventerous person when it comes to trying different food, is very pleased to learn that her choice (Tortilla con patatas, or Spanish Omelete as we would call it), is actually included in the list of Tapas, so, now she can say, she has eaten at least one Tapa!

Tuesday ends with a thunderstorm, but, not before we make it back to the van!

The area we are staying in is called "l'albufera Natural Park". There is a large salt water lagoon, just a short distance away. It is, if my memory of "Google Facts" is correct, the second largest lake in Spain.

Wednesday, we cycle to El Palmar, on the shore of the lagoon.

It is a town which seems to consist of houses, lots of restaurants, (and I mean lots, there are streets of them) and one shop.

The building which once appears to have been the church, is now, yes, you guessed, a restaurant!

We cycle back, to complete 14 miles, just before the rain and thunder starts again!

Fortunately, it is gone as quickly as it came, and the sun is soon shining again.