Monday 29th April 2013 - Thursday 2nd May 2013

Playa Las Dunas contd...

Monday, and we are off to Cordoba.

I have SatNav co-ordinates for a Campervan parking spot in Cordoba (N37 52' 28" W4 47' 12"). The plan is, if the parking place is satisfactory, to stop there, one night, and see the sights.

We are disappointed when we arrive at the parking place. Apart from one very beaten up Ford Transit van, and a French Campervan, the place is deserted.
There are security cameras, and, it is very near the "old" city. There is a barrier to get in/out, and the charge is 30cents/hour, or 20Euro per day.

All in all, we are not relaxed about spending the night there.

So, we put Plan B into operation and drive to Villafranca de Cordoba, La Albolafia (N37 57' 13" W4 33' 15"). This is an ACSI site, with a bus service to Cordoba.

The site is reasonably pleasant, a bit typical of "city visit" sites we have encountered, ie, not quite up to scratch, but, OK for a night or two.

But, I suppose, to be fair, although the photograph shows a brief period of sunshine, for most of the time, it is pissing down (no other word, really describes it, sorry), and nowhere looks at it's best under those circumstances.

Serves me right for gloating about the good weather we were having.

I am not sure if there is any other attraction for people to come here (other than to visit Cordoba), but, unless we have missed something, the town of Villafranca seems to have died, and not told anyone. It is like a Spanish version of South Shields, Hebburn or Jarrow. Signs of regeneration, but, overall a run down and shabby. Just about every shop in the place is empty and/or for sale!

Tuesday, we catch the 9:30 bus to Cordoba (2.60Euro per person, single), for the 24 kilometre (15 miles) ride into Cordoba. 

From the bus station, it is simple enough to find the "old city", just walk across from the bus station to the railway station, keep the railway station on your right, then, turn left down the slight hill, then right into Avenue d'Argentina. After that, just follow the signs. It is about 15 minutes walk.

The old city is quite amazing, although, for reasons which will become clear, we saw only a very limited amount of it.

There is the usual maze of small streets, with beautiful courtyards just off the street.

The Cathedral is very unusual, possibly unique, since it was originally a mosque which was converted to a Cathedral by adding on various "Christian" bits.

In addition to the Cathedral, there are reminders of Cordoba's Moorish past in many of the buildings.

Needless to say, the Romans where here too, this is a surviving Roman Bridge.

We have chosen the Restaurant where we plan to eat, but, it is too early for lunch, just after 11:00.

We come upon a museum dedicated to the Inquisition (which was based in Cordoba), in we go.

It is just about as far as I get in seeing Cordoba.

Whilst in there, I collapsed, ably caught, before I hit the floor, by Kathleen and a couple of men who happened to be nearby, so, fortunately no injuries sustained.

Before I new it, three paramedics where on the scene and I was being given ECG, and various tablets and needles stuck in my arms and fingers to test blood sugar, administer stimulants etc. One of the paramadecs spoke good English and she questioned me as to if I had any pains, what medication I was on, etc. The other was busy with the needles. I realise, she was probably forewarning me before she jabbed me again, but, all I heard was a bit of Spanish, and then felt the needle pricks. Difficult not to appear a wimp, when you jump with surprise with each jab. 

I was whisked into an Ambulance, given heperin injections, and taken to the Hospital!

At the hospital, there is a "Joan Cruikshanks" scene. I am lying on the trolley, wires and drips attached to me, when Kathleen starts telling me to stand up, so she can get at my wallet, which, she needed it because it contained my driving licence, which was required for a form of identification.

We spent the rest of the day at the Hospital, they gave me more blood tests and ECGS, and an Ex-Ray, by which time I had fully recovered, so, they sent us on our way. There was no mention of payment, and, as it happens, we have E111 cards, but, they were back at the van of course.

We even found our way back to the bus station in time to catch the 18:00 bus back to the campsite.

We spend the evening managing to see the amusing side of todays events, although, I suppose it could have all turned out rather difficult, had they decided to keep me in Hospital for a few days.

So, despite the fact I had a quick tour of the Spanish healthcare system and, Cordoba is very nice, I do not think I will tempt fate by visiting there again. 

Wednesday, turns out to be yet another Bank Holiday in Spain!, that is two this week.

We head off for a rather spectacular drive through the mountains.

We bypass Granada and head alongside the Sierra Nevada mountains, still snow capped.

We arrive at a Campervan stop in time for a late lunch.

Venta del Peral (N37 33.258' W2 3.512'), form the Aires Spain book. It is a Hotel just off the Motorway.

It has a very pleasant Restaurant, a snack bar, and a bar (with excellent free Wifi). It has the usual service point, free water, plus very well kept toilet/washbasin facilities, all for free. If you want a shower, that is 2.50Euro.

In the "village", there is a bread shop, another bar and a church, so not exactly a lot to do, but, fine for an overnight stop.

Early in the evening, two buses arrive loaded with Moroccan Construction workers (according to the badges on their jackets), but, they soon depart after eating their sandwiches. Yes, like me, you may wonder why, given the dire unemployment situation in Spain, they need to bus in Moroccans, very strange, a bit like East Europeans in Lincolnshire I suppose.

After a good nights sleep, we are heading East towards our next stop.

Most of the way is easy going, but after Alhama de Murcia, the road becomes a bit hairy. I am normally not fazed by such things, but, this is a bit special.

Eventually, after about four miles of hairpins, big drops(hence, no photographs, Kathleen was using both hands to hold on to her seat!

The satnav, then announces "turn left in 50 yards", as we approach the junction, there is a warning sign "road unsuitable for caravans, diversion". For once, I actually took notice and followed the diversion. It was dreadful. I shudder to think what the road the satnav was trying to take us on was like!

El Berro, Alhama de Murcia, Sierra Espuna (N37 53' 17" W1 29' 35").

We are high up in the Sierra Espuna, the site is small, and very pretty, right alongside an equally pretty village.

This is the view from the back window of the van, not bad eh!

Given that we are really high up in the mountains, you might have expected it would be cool, or even cold, but, it is sunny and quite hot, so Kathleen is soon into sunbathing mode (her

favourite position, lying in the sun).

The plan was to stay here until Sunday, there is a church in the village, but, knowing Kathleen, she will be so anxious about the drive back down the route we came, we will not be staying here very long.

It is too hilly for bike riding, but, there is good walking we are told.

When checking in, we are warned not to leave our shoes outside the van overnight. Apparently, they have a fox, which steals any shoes left outside of the vans (or tents) overnight!

Friday 26th April 2013 - Sunday 28th April 2013

Friday is a quiet day activity wise, a day for chores.

It is "hair washing day", so a big event in Kathleen's calendar.

She cannot get her Fringe "just right", not good news.

I just attempt to stay out of the way by going cycling around the area.

I am given a little chore, seems simple enough, buy some mushrooms.

I find all of the shops are shut, even the large supermarket, supposedly open 24/7 is closed.

It is a public holiday today, all of the women are walking around dressed in traditional Spanish dresses (Flamenco style), and we are told, there is some big "Fiesta" on up the road.

I find from Google (where else?) it is called Feria del Vino Fino: El Puerto de Santa María's local week of fiesta, dancing sherry drinking and sevillana dancing. This is the principal festival is the Feria de Primavera (Spring Fair), held between the fifth and sixth week after Holy Week.

Our British/Swedish neighbours (Deryk and Nicki) tell us, they have cycled to the Fiesta, but, our Belgian neighbour on the other side advises against cycling there, he says get the bus, then you can drink as much as you wish, without falling off your bicycle.

Tomorrow, our Belgian neighbour is planning a visit to the Osborne (Sherry) Bodega, I think, maybe, he has a drink problem!

Being resourceful, I do find a small fruit and vegetable shop open.

How about this for a public exercise set up?

How long would something like this last in the UK, before it was vandalised beyond recognition?





Sunday, and it is sunny, but a strong cold wind blowing from the North, with lots of clouds massed in the North, looks like they are comming our way. That is what you get for gloating over people back in the UK, about the weather I suppose!

Kathleen, ever the practical housewife starts washing everything in sight, because it is a "good drying day", which is woman speak for blowing a gale!

This leads to a catalogue of complaints, I have made the washing line too short AND too high. It is not long before she has joined forces with the newly arrived English woman next to us, to begin a joint complaining session about myself and the new arrivals husband.

Tuesday 23rd April 2013 - Thursday 25th April 2013

Quarteira, continued....

Yesterday when we were chatting to the two English chaps in the bar, one of the questions they asked was, "do you not get on each others nerves, in a small campervan, for several weeks".

My answer was "well, I sometimes manage to get in the way".

Tuesday morning, I seem to have excelled myself. It is not even 09:00 in the morning yet and I have managed to:

• get up too early
• not close the lid on the kettle correctly when making tea for breakfast
• fill the kettle too full

Not bad going eh!

Wednesday 24th April 2013.

Today, we leave Quarteira, and indeed leave Portugal.

We call at Fonte Santa on the way out, it is Market day again.

Kathleen cannot resist going back to buy some of the things she should have bought last week, but, for some reason, did not.

Surprise, surprise, that stall is not there this week.

We are heading for El Puerto de Santa Maria, which is across the bay from Cadiz. The site is Playa Las Dunas, (N36 35' 15" W6 14' 26"), an ACSI site, so 16Euro/night. 

One of the attractions here is to visit Cadiz.

Thursday, we walk along to catch the ferry to Cadiz.

This proves that the first bit of information we were given is wrong! It is not a 10 minute walk, more like 20 minutes, and that is at Kathleen's route march pace.

Best to take your bike and leave it (locked up of course), at the ferry terminal.

Two Euro fifty each, for a twenty minute boat ride across the bay to Cadiz, all very painless, but, surprisingly choppy.

All appears calm here, but, that is before we have left the river!

Once in the actual bay, there are a few green faces around.

Quite a magnificent place Cadiz, as you can see from the approach to the harbour, complete with Italian Cruise ship berthed.

The cruise ship's name is "Costa Fortuna", I wonder if it does?

Once off the ship, we head for the Cathederal, and, we arrive to a little military display of marching and music.

I do not think this was especially arranged for our arrival, but, I like to think it was.

The Cathederal itself, inside, is rather austere, unlike most Spanish churches / Cathederals we have visited.

There is also an entrance fee, which always annoys Kathleen, she says, "you should not have to pay to visit God's House".

There is an very extensive (and echo filled) crypt, which is very impressive.

The quality of the stonework, even down here, where it will be seldom seen is excellent.

Although most of the Cathederal is rather bare and austere, as I have already said, there are some display cases containing what look like very valuable pieces of regalia.

As a good Catholic, Kathleen often has little attacks of conciensce about her "good fortune", ie basically, being born in, and, living in a developed country in Northern Europe, which means she does not go hungary and can afford some of the pleasures of life.

Well, I reckon there is enough gold and silver in these dispaly cases to feed a few hungary mouths, without plundering my pockets!

Overall, Cadiz reminds me very much of Barcelona, but, sort of more relaxed, and not quite as "quirky".

Lots of lively street scenes with plenty of good bars, restaurants and interesting squares to wander through.

There was even a C and A, where Kathleen was able to have a "shopping fix".

One of the things which always facinates me about cities such as Cadiz, Barcelona etc, is, the streets seen so "alive", and my initial reaction is that I would not like to live there, because it all seems a bit frantic, but, if you peep into the courtyards of the houses along the street, you see they are an oasis of calm and peace. Not only that, they are all beautifully kept and spotlessly clean.

I spent the evening searching El Peurto de Santa Maria for a mobile phone shop which could sell me a data only SIM card.

I knew this would probably not be an easy task, this area of Spain is not typical English tourist land, and most locals do not appear to speak much English. My Spanish is limited to buying beer and food, a vocabulary which I did not expect to be much use when trying to discuss 3G internet tariffs.

It is 7:00 in the evening, but the town centre appears to going full swing, with most of the shops open.

I find the a shop of the local Spanish Network (Movietel). The young lady assistant is not helpful, her boyfriend is waiting in the wings, and I think she is more anxious to shut up shop and leave than waste her time with me, so, no joy.

An international network Vodaphone shop is just along the street. the young lady in there is more helpful (no boyfriend hanging around perhaps), but, no joy, she directs me to Orange! 

The young lady in the Orange Shop shows great initiative, although she does have a boyfriend hovering in the background, who is presumably anxious to proceed to the next phase of the evening, since, he occasionally steps forward from behind her and kisses her neck as the transaction proceeds.

Not only could she sell me a suitable SIM card (40Euro for 1 month unlimited downloads), but, although she does not speak English, she employs Google Translate to "talk" to me on her PC.

Full marks to her, she should go far.

I have always said, Google has the answer to everything!

Friday 19th April 2013 - Monday 22nd April 2013

Quarteira, continued....

I mentioned in a previous post, the Brandy Croft, well Portugal, is the origin of Port wine. The local Lidl has quite a selection of different types. I have begun a quest to sample some (or all) of them, before we leave.

Kathleen, was in particularly expansive mood today, I am not sure what I have done to deserve it. I was even entrusted with her purse, to go to Lidl and buy a few groceries we needed, while she lay in the sun. I took advantage of her good humour and bought myself a bottle of White Port, out of her purse of course.

Not a murmur of discontent, something is amiss.

We have been somewhat plagued by a mosquito. At least, I think it is a mosquito, it may be several mosquitos, since they do not wear identifying name badges, it is difficult to say.

The mosquito emerges at night, and we have both collected several bites.

We have an “Insect killing light”, which we leave on at night, but, so far, this particular little blighter has evaded death by electrocution, and by being swotted.

Kathleen has now become obsessed with finding it, and dispatching it to Mosquito heaven. She is convinced it must have a hiding place in the van, where it can lie undisturbed, to emerge each night.

I suggested, the only place I could think of, where it could be fairly sure of being undisturbed, is her purse, so, maybe she should check there.

Kathleen was not amused.

I can report, the White Port, and the Tawny Port, from Lidl at 3.50Euro a bottle, are both very drinkable. My preference is the White port, which, as it’s name suggests, is very pale in colour and very easy to drink. At 19% alcohol, it may be best to exercise some control however.

Sunday, so, it is Church day, I am left to my own  devices, whilst Kathleen attends church.

I have already mentioned Insects, well, the ground here is very sandy, there are absolutely hundreds of ants scurrying about, dragging bits and pieces down into their nests.

Amazing little creatures!

We have a sea view, just!, from our van.

You have to peer through the trees, but, it is there.






kathleen has begun agonising about the fact that she may have put on weight. Not very likely, as all of those who know her, will confirm.

So, it is either eat and drink less, or exercise more, well, the eat and drink less does not appeal to me, so, it is more exercise.

We set off for a walk along the coast.

The route I had planned would have given us a five or six mile walk, most of which was through a wooded area by the beach, which would have given us some shade. Necessary in this heat, another 25C day today.

But, after only two miles, we end up in a beachside bar for a beer,

We do meet a couple of jolly old English men. They are here for a week, staying ot one of their son's villa.

I say "old", because they are older than we are, so, that makes them "old" and us, "not old".

After this feeble effort at exercise, we get the bikes out and do a six mile bike ride to the marina and back.

Monday 15th April 2013 - Thursday 18th April 2013

Quarteria (continued)...

We set off on foot to find the track which runs alongside the campsite.

Sure enough, we find the correct way to go. Yesterday, I had taken the correct turn off the main road, but, there is a fork in the track. I followed the tarmac road, which was wrong.

Today, with the benefit of Kathleen’s guidance, we followed the un-surfaced track, and sure enough, it brought us around the perimeter of the campsite and alongside the lagoon.

After about a mile, we come to a beach restaurant,

and a really extensive stretch of sandy (empty) beach.

Eventually we come to yet another beachside restaurant, right on the edge of Quarteira.

Outside of the Restaurant, there appears to be an unofficial campervan stop. There are no facilities here, other than rubbish bins, and there are clear signs saying “No Camping”, but these vans have been here for at least three days without being moved on.

For anyone reading this who is interested in potential wild camping stops, the coordinates are N37.061638 W8.087957 Quarteira, Portugal. 

While having a refreshing beer, a big fly landed in my drink! This is two days running this has happened. I fished it out, and finished my drink (same as yesterday). Come to think of it, it may have been the same free loading fly.

Kathleen is disgusted.

You may have noticed, I have not been complaining about the weather recently.

It has been magnificent! Sunny days, 24C, hardly a cloud in the sky.

Long may it continue.

The result of heat or course is some rather large insects.

On our daily stroll today, we encountered a Dung Beetle, it was rolling a piece of crap (ie shit) about 1" inch in diameter along the road, the beetle itself was about 1.5 inches long.

Now, if one of those landed in my drink, I don't think I would finish the drink!

Wednesday, there is a market in the village along the road (Forte Santa).

Kathleen has withdrawal symptoms, because she has not been to a market for about two weeks.

From my point of view, it is the perfect market, right in the middle is an area selling food and drink, so, I park myself at a table and help the Portuguese economy to recover by, watching the world go by, whilst drinking local beer.

Kathleen amuses herself shopping, she even buys me a pair of trainers (with my money of course)!

Restaurant Fantasia have a special offer on tonight, 9Euro per head for an all you can eat three course buffet. Kathleen is not one to stuff her face, but, me, that is a diffent story. Great night, even with wine and after meal drinks 32Euro. Not bad at all.

Weather continues hot and sunny, an almost empty swimming pool to cool off in, yes, we are still at Quarteira. 

Saturday 13th April 2013 - Sunday 14th April 2013

All around us are Brits (English, Irish, Welsh and Scots), we cannot just say “English” now, they are all so prickly about it. Just a couple of Dutch, Germans and French to add to the mix.

Yesterday, another British van arrived, from their accents, I think we can safely say English.

On the back of their van, they have slogans and jokes.

Their surname is Wylde, so, emblazoned across the top of the back of the van, they have the words “Wylde Thing”.  

Other slogans include:

“Don’t steal, the Government hates competition”.

“Adventure before Dementia”.

“Old Age Travellers”.

A cycle ride to the beach, then along the promenade in Quarteira, to Vilamoura Marina.

A nice five mile cycle to work up our appetite.

Lunch at the Vilamoura Marina, and very nice it is too.

To think, we only have seven more weeks to go, isn’t life so unfair?

It is Sunday, so, Church for Kathleen.

While Kathleen is away at church, I busy myself with a few small chores, then go out on my bicycle to try and find the route to the beach behind the campsite. We can see the small road, cars, people and cyclists going along it, but we cannot find where the track emerges onto the main road.

Armed with some directions from one of the “residents” here, I still fail to find it, but, I do find another track to a beach on the other side of the lagoon.

Better luck tomorrow, perhaps.

The mystery of the full purse.

I meet Kathleen from Church and we walk the length of the promenade to work up an appetite for lunch.

As we walk, we decide to have lunch at a restaurant (Fantasia Restaurant) which has been recommended to us by the Wylde Campers.

I check my wallet, not much cash left, I will need to go to a cash machine.

Now Kathleen and I, operate an “equality” system, Kathleen has her money, I have mine, and we share the costs.

Each time I have drawn money from the cash machine, Kathleen too, has drawn money.

I have spent all of mine, Kathleen still has a wad of Euros, in her purse.

How can that be?

I think the phrase “Kathleen has her money, I have mine, and we share the costs.” Should read “Kathleen has her money, and Kathleen has my money, and the costs come out of my money!”..

It is decided we will eat at Fantasia, and big wow, Kathleen will pay.

While we peruse the menu, I treat us to a couple of cocktails (Pinacolada and Tequila Sunrise) with my last 10Euro.

Mystery solved, I am just too generous.

I should point out, the move to cocktails is partly my brother John’s fault. John commented on Facebook (to a photograph of Kathleen), that it was the first time he had seen her without a glass of red wine in her hand. 

Kathleen felt the need to show, she is not addicted to Red Wine or Gin, she will in fact drink just about anything.

The mystery of the third empty beer bottle.

After lunch, we return to the van, have a cold beer and chill out, well, fall asleep to be more precise.

After a while, when we wake up, we have a tidy up of the empties.

Big mystery, there are three empty bottles, there are, you may have observed only two of us.

Now, the bottles of beer are only 50cents in Lidl, so, as far as I am concerned, it is not worth worrying about.

Kathleen however is not so easily fobbed off.

Have we had a burglar who helped himself to a beer while we were comatose?

While pondering this mystery, she decides to make a coffee to shake our senses into action.

Kathleen's cup is already dirty, mine is clean.

Mystery solved, after Church, Kathleen had a coffee (hence, the dirty cup), I had a beer (hence, the third bottle).

I have been caught out, Alzheimer’s is here.

 

Wednesday 10th April 2013 - Friday 12th April 2013

We make the short journey to Quarteira.

Find the site absolutely no problem, when there is not a cycle race and road closures. Orbitur Quarteira N37 4’ 2”, W8 5’ 14”.

We are still using our Orbitur Club vouchers, so, 9Euro per night, including Electricity and Wifi. The Wifi is a Wifi Point, so, not usable from the van, which is a bit of a shame. This is one of the sites we visited on our first ever long Campervan trip. That was five or six years ago now, so memories of the place are hazy. First impressions are favourable.

There are lots and lots of these birds around, with blue backs. I think, they are Jays, but, not totally sure about that. It is obvious from their gait and the way they fly, they are related to Magpies.

Portugal, like the area of Northern Spain we passed through, is littered with abandoned “projects”. All stopped when the Euro crisis started and the cash dried up. Motorways or dual carriageways which just end, in a mass of abandoned road works,  half built viaducts, the supporting legs sticking up like teeth, but, only half of the “deck” for the road in place, office and house building projects abandoned and overgrown with weeds.

Just outside the campsite entrance, is this little gem.

Major work has been started on the main road into town, but, now all work has stopped.

I think they are going to have to do something about this zebra crossing, I doubt it complies with EU disability access legislation!

Just along the coast, about five miles cycle, mostly along a very nice promenade, but, predictably, not all finished! We find a place called Vilamoura.

There are certainly no signs of shortage of cash here. A very smart marina, packed with equally smart boats, restaurants and bars all around.

I suspect we will be back here on Saturday, for a meal.

Visit a Vodaphone shop, with the intention of buying a PAYG SIM card to use in an unlocked 3G Dongle to access the internet, but, in order to top it up, you have to have a Portuguese bank account, bizarre. The local carrier TMN, is more accommodating and at least does a top up on the spot in the shop, plus have a top up via telephone. We will give it a shot and see how it works, 20Euro, as an experiment.

Well, it works fine, not sure if I understand the limits correctly, since, predictably, all the information is in Portugese, I think it is 1 hour per day, unlimited downloads, for 10 days, expiry in 90 days, costs 10Euro.