Slowly Home

Tuesday, October 8^th 2013

Leave Bruges and travel only 15km to the campsite we had planned to use to visit Bruges, before I found the more convenient Stellplatz. Not very impressed, pleased we found the Stellplatz!

We need a site to use services (washing machine), and HWD (Hair Washing Day) is looming, so, travel on to Bredene, 17 Duinzicht (N51 14’ 56” E2 58’2”). An ACSI site. Bredene is on the coast, just a little North east of Ostende.

Bredene appears to be a Belgian version of Tynemouth.

We have a pleasant walk along the promenade, plus a beer and a Bombay Saphire (gin).

It is an odd layout, for a seaside resort, you cannot actually see the sea!

Between the promenade and the beach, is, a dual carriageway, with a metro or tram system running down the central reservation, then some rather large sand dunes, then the beach and the sea.

Once you actually get to the beach, apart from being about 1000 miles too far North (like the Northumberland Coast), it is rather magnificent.

Wednesday, October 9^th 2013

The weather has worsened. No sunshine today. We regret not getting the bicycles out yesterday, but, undeterred, we get the bicycles out and cycle along the coast for a couple of hours, ending up in a seaside bar, with some very cheeky sparrows, whose party trick is to help themselves to the nuts which are provided free with the drinks.

Wednesday night is a shocker, a howling gale and bursts of pouring rain!  

Thursday, October 10^th 2013

The weather has not improved this morning, still the same howling gale and bursts of pouring rain.

After I get soaked to skin, in one such downpour, returning from a trip to the loo, Kathleen decides that, although this is HWD she is not going to risk a soaking, so, it is officially postponed.

I do my outside chores, ie disconnect mains etc, in a lull in the rain, and, off we go.

The plan is to do some last minute booze shopping at a large “Area Commercial” (Retail Park), near Boulogne. We usually aim to break even on the cost of the ferry crossing versus the saving in the coast of Wine, Gin etc compared to the UK.

Enroute, we call at a potential “Aire”, at Wissant (N50 53.210’ E1 40.224’). It is in our Aires book, as “under construction” in 2010. I can report, it is finished now, and in use. It is neatly laid out, free, and organised, but with minimum facilities, ie water and waste disposal only. Not suitable for HWD, no power for hair dryer, hair straighteners etc. Worth remembering for another time, the village looks interesting and the area is very scenic.

We drive to Boulogne Area Commercial, visit Lidl and LeClerk to stock up on alcohol, fresh bread, warm from the oven, and very fattening cream cakes.

The rain has stopped, gale has subsided to “very windy”.

A few miles back along the coast, towards Calais, we stop at Wimereux, L’Ete Indien (N50 45’10” E1 36’28”), an ACSI site (16Euro). Other than the views, not really that impressive, but, it has the essentials for HWD, ie good power (10amps), and plenty of hot water.

We are perched on a hill, overlooking a wild sea, I hope the wind quietens by this evening, since at present, it is howling around the van.

After coffee and cream cakes, hair washing swings into action.

In the evening, we are even able to get some terrestrial Television, French Channels you would expect, after all, we are in France, but, we are also able to receive several English channels.

What another shocker of a night, howling gale and pouring rain again, by morning it has stopped raining and wind has died down, but, it is cold (7C). The village is at least 2km away, so, it is decided we will somewhere different.

Just to point out, for those unfamiliar with woman speak,  “it is decided”, translates as “Kathleen does not want to stay here”.

Friday 11^th October 2013

Licques, Pommiers des Trois Pays (N50 46’ 47” E1 56’ 52”), an ACSI site, 14Euro per night. A very neat little place, on the edge of the village of Licques, which has a small supermarket etc.

We are quite away from the coast but still near Calais, so, a reasonable option either just before catching the ferry, or, just after getting off the ferry. A bit of a small road to get here, so, perhaps not suitable for a late night arrival in the dark.

According to the ACSI book, the site has free 80% wifi coverage, but, I cannot connect, so presumably we are in the other 20%!

My Orange-France SIM card, is getting a signal, but, it is too weak to be useful. Of all the SIM cards I have acquired (Portugal, Spain, Germany, France), the Orange-France one is the least satisfactory. Coverage is not magnificent, and topping it up is a pain. You do not appear to be able to do it online, and, if you appear to need a French Fixed line to do the registration if buy a top up voucher. As if all that was not bad enough, the top up does not seem to be instant, it takes a couple of hours to “come through”. Unless, when I have topped up, it has coincided with French Lunchtime perhaps?

Saturday 12^th October 2013

Today, we are off to Gravelines, ready to catch the ferry at crack of dawn (well 6:00) tomorrow morning.

One of our regular last stops before the ferry or tunnel, It was free, then they started charging 7Euro (which was extortion, for parking only, with no facilities), now the price has been adjusted to 6Euro/24 hours (May – September) and 3Euro/24 hours October – April).

The weather has taken a turn for the better, despite the weather forecast, a bright sunny day, so nice we are able to sit in the square having a beer or two.

Since we were last here, they appear to have provided free WiFi, at least it appears to be free, you register your Email, and, you get 60 minutes connection. Good signal, and reasonably fast.

Sunday 13th October 2013

Alarm goes off at 4:30, yes, in the morning!

Drive to Dunkirk, after check in, we arrive in our allotted lane, just as boarding starts, just as I like it, no hanging around.

Arrive in UK, pouring rain. The joys of driving along the M25 in a cloud of spray, until we come to Kings Langley, where we have arranged to meet up with Gary, Susana and Gabriel. They are on a brief visit to the UK, from Baku, so too good an opportunity to miss, to see them and have Sunday Lunch together.

After lunch, we drive to near Ferrybridge, to stay on a Caravan and Camping Club CS.

Monday 14th October 2013

Find our way to Armitage Trailers to have a towbar fitted to the campervan, and, collect motorcycle trailer.

Home by 17:30.

 

Bruges

Saturday 5^th October 2013

We arrive at Bruges, just in time for lunch.

From the internet, I found a Stellplatz (or whatever the Belgians call them). It is relatively new which may explain why it does not seem to be in any of the books we have.

It is located at N51.19600635966311 E3.22573184967041 it is next to the coach park and it is within ten minutes walking distance of the city centre, through the Middelwaterpark.

The price is 22Euro per night, in “high season”, and 15Euro per night in “Low Season”. Low season starts 1^st October. The price is inclusive of electricity. It may also be inclusive of the use of the service point, we are not sure, because when we were there, the service point was out of order!. Fortunately we had water etc already.

It is all very organised, with marked and numbered bays, and all very clean and tidy. Entry is via a barrier (you get a ticket, pay at a separate machine before you leave).

 It is clearly very popular, it quickly filled up at the weekend, slightly quieter on Monday.

There are actually two areas to the Stellplatz, one is on the same side of the road as the coach park, the other is on the other side of the road, ie on the left as you approach.

The area on the other side of the road to the coach park appears to be the better of the two, having larger bays.

Adjacent to the Stellplatz, is the Yacht Club and Marina, with the usual rows of very expensive boats, all neatly tied up and empty..

We spend the afternoon strolling around Bruges, it is very, very nice. Number one priority is finding a church with a mass for Kathleen, either this evening, or, tomorrow. It is another Cathedral job, 10:30 Sunday.

There are all kinds of things happening, a chap walking around on stilts,

a couple of people playing music and marching around with a flock of geese,

a group of young men strolling the streets in Victorian clothing,

a couple of guys riding about on motorised “surf” boards, playing Beach Boys music as they go, and,

a chap with a collection of birds of prey and owls.

That by the way, is all happening  on a Saturday afternoon, in the small square where we are sitting having  a beer (ZilverPlaat).

I wonder what it is like after closing time?

Sunday 6^th October 2013

It is my birthday today, so, whilst Kathleen attends church, I explore possible eating places.

The end result is we spend most of the afternoon eating and drinking in the main market square, which has the dual advantage of being bathed in sunshine and having a plentiful choice of eating places.

A little more strolling around the old town, followed by more eats, Belgian waffles this time, while listening to three buskers playing classical music. Not sure I see what all the fuss is abou (the waffles that is), but, when in Belgium, you have to at least give them a try!

Back to the van, to receive birthday phone calls, while relaxing in the sunshine. Kathleen is not up for anymore exercise, so, she sits reading her book in the sunshine, whilst I explore the cycle track along the canal.

Monday 7^th October 2013

Another beautiful day.

We cycle around the city, following the canal, mostly on a dedicated cycle track which is traffic free. We are on our way to Ostend, only another  26 kilometres to go, before Kathleen notices and calls a halt.

We pick up the city cycle track again, and cycle through leafy streets and parks, before arriving in the central square for  a much needed beer.

We cycle to the cathedral and park our bicycles, before buying our lunch (hot dogs, and chips) from one of the many take-away food stalls.

After lunch we take a boat trip around the canal within the city, it is amazingly pretty, and also amazingly old, much of it dating back to 1500 and before, all beautifully preserved.

Followed by more lazing in the sunshine, then, in the evening, cycling around the park for me.

En-route to Bruges,

Thursday 3^rd October 2013

Time to leave Luxemburg, but, not before we have made the obligatory trip to a Garage to fill up with, what is, reputedly, the cheapest Diesel in Europe, at 1.20Euro/Litre (ie almost 50% cheaper than the UK!).

Soon we are cruising along the motorway into Belgium.

We arrive at Aywaille, Domain Chateau de Dieupart (N50 28’ 35” E5 41’ 21”), an ACSI site, at 16 Euro.

The write up in the ACSI book is quite glowing.

Realistically, I would describe it as “quaint”, ie a euphemism for a bit disorganised.

On arrival, reception is closed (not unusual), with a notice to say, choose a pitch and complete your check-in when reception re-opens at 16:00. Well at 19:10, reception is still not open. Never mind, we are on a pitch, plugged into electricity and all is well.

On the positive side, it is only five minutes walk to an out of town shopping area, with no one supermarket, but three, plus a choice of other shops.

The town is described as being 500 metres away, I think that is a bit optimistic, but, it is, at most 15 minutes walk along a pleasant footpath/cycle track.

Friday 4^th October 2013

Very important task today, it is hair washing day, all other considerations are secondary.

I would normally make myself scarce during the hair washing, drying and straightening rituals, but, today it is raining, which rather wrecks my plans for a morning of exploring on my bicycle.

I content myself with reading my book, and keeping well out the way, plus a visit to reception, to complete the check-in formalities.

Reception is a bit of a revelation, from the outside, it looks exactly like a “normal” campsite Reception Office, but, step through the door and, it is as if you have stepped into a rather basic and old fashioned English country pub. Definitely quaint this place is.

By lunch time, the rain has stopped and there is warm sunshine, warm enough to walk into town and support the local economy by having a few beers.

En-route to Bruges, first stop, Luxemburg

Tuesday 1st October 2013

We arrive near Luxemburg city, Alzingen, Bon Accueil (N49 34' 9" E6 9' 36"), an ACSI site. It is time for chores, clothes washing is the order of the day.

For some reason, there is a surplus of Brits here, in addition to ourselves, there is a caravan and 6 campervan's from Britain, they all seem to have been to Croatia!

Alzingen is only six kilometres from Luxemburg City, centre, and the bus to the centre stops just outside of the campsite.

Wednesday 2nd October 2013

I do not know if the weather we are experiencing here is typical for this time of year, but, it is decidedly odd. This morning, it is dry, but, very cold. By lunch time there is bright sunshine and a cloudless sky, it is warm enough to sit in the sun sunbathing.

We catch the bus into Luxemburg City. We meet another English couple from the site, at the bus stop. A very pleasant pair, Larry and Pauline, from Brighton.

We limit ourselves to the "old" part, and I manage to miss out all of the shops, a successful day.

It is a very pleasant place, clean, orderly and quaint.

My European history is not too good, so, I am not familiar with the recent past here. It is clear from various monuments that it was over-run by the Germans in both WW1 and WW2, but, it seems to have escaped major damage.

Clearly a very affluent place, but, there are a few beggars around, despite that.

Just goes to show I suppose, no matter what the circumstances, there will always be some who float to the top, and some who sink to the bottom of the economic and social pile.

We have a good wander around, taking in the sights and sounds, including of course, the inevitable Cathedral of Notre Dame, rounded off with a pleasant lunch.

The Rhine and Moselle

I am told Imelda Marcos had a thing about buying shoes, well Kathleen has a thing about buying hats. Yet another one is acquired when visiting Rudesheim.

Friday 27^th September 2013

We spend the day, cycling along the Rhine to Guisenheim and beyond.

Visiting the market, to buy fresh vegetables.

Lunchtime is spent drinking white wine in a pavement bar.

All very enjoyable.





Saturday 28^th September 2013

We leave Guisemheim, for the Moselle.

Kathleen is very concerned about the route the sat-nav will take us, the Rhine is a big river, and there are not many bridges.

Initially, she is concerned, because we are heading toward Koblenz, a significant distance down river, but, after just a few kilometres, we are directed to a ferry across the Rhine to Bingen.

The Rhine is an incredibly busy river, with barges and large river cruise boats passing up and down the river every few minutes.

So, crossing the river in a ferry, is, we find, the equivalent of attempting to cross the M1 on foot.

The ferry has to pause and turn head on to the current, whilst barges pass on either side of us, several times during the crossing.

We are heading for a Stelplatz which we got from a book I picked up at a tourist display, we arrive at Minheim, (N49 51’ 54” E6 56’ 28”).

But, the best laid plans of mice and men, seldom work out.

I have carefully checked out the church in advance on Google, but, we arrive to find the place absolutely full.

A van just leaving, but the German van we have followed for the past five miles gets the space. I knew I should have taken a chance and overtaken him! He is so anxious to grab the space, he begins reversing into it, before the departing van has actually exited the space, and promptly reverses into him! No damage done fortunately.

Never mind, we know of another Stelplatze. 

Longuich, Felten Weine and Edelbrande (N49 48’ 7” E6 46’ 49”) A return visit, so, a stroll to refresh Kathleen’s memory of where the church is, and check out mass times.

We pause in a Bier Garten for a glass of wine, then, back to the van to snooze in the autumn sun.

The banks of the Moselle are covered in vineyards, and, most of the stellplatz are set in the vineyards.

This one, at Longuich, is no exception, we are surrounded by the raw materials of our lunch time tipple!

Sunday 29^th September 2013

Sunday, so, that means church.

While Kathleen cycles to the village to attend church, I bake bread for later.

No, I have not become a bread chef, we bought part cooked bread buns, at Lidl, all you have to do, is pop them in the oven for ten minutes, even I can do that.

After Kathleen returns from church, we cycle down river for about six miles, a little beyond a place called Mehring. We call in at Mehring, to check out the Stellplatz there, it has a good spot, right on the river bank, but, it holds approximately 100 vans, and is a little too big for our taste.

By the time we return to Longuich, we have cycled about twelve miles, that is quite a feat on our folding bicycles, which are not designed for significant distances.

We cycle back to the Wine / Bier Garden we visited yesterday, for a very enjoyable lunch, some excellent wine, German brandy and German Liquers.

Monday 30^th September 2013

A beautiful autumn day, bright blue sky, warm sunshine.

We cycle along the Moselle into Scweich, passing a rather large river cruise ship, executing a complete turn in the river. The ship is almost as long as the river is wide.

The plan had been to use a cash machine in Scweich, then cycle along the river in the direction of Trier.

But, we meet an Welsh couple who have ridden to Scweich on their motor scooter from further down the Moselle. They turn out to be an entertaining pair, 74 years old, but, not even looking retirement age, they are making their way back home, from a visit to Poland.

We talk for so long, we run our of time to do our cycle ride, and instead return to the van for lunch, and an afternoon of reading in the sun.

South West across Germany to the Rhine

Monday 23rd September 2013

Heading toward the Rhine or Moselle, not quite decided yet.

First stop is Gottingen, a very pleasant town, is our first impression..

We stay on a stellplatze. Badeparadies Eiswiese (N51 31'23" E9 55'46"). Very nice it is too. Almost empty when we arrive, but, by 17:00 almost full, as you can see.

We meet yet another couple of New Zealanders (France and Cynthia), who are now living in the UK, but, spend most of their time roaming Europe in a Campervan. France is of Dutch extraction, but went to New Zealand as a baby, with his parents. He thus has the luxury(?) of New Zealand, Dutch and EU citizenship.

A very pleasant evening, drinking red wine and comparing notes on the places we have visited.

Tuesday 24th September 2013

Kathleen is not feeling too well today, cold type bug symptoms, but, being a woman, she will not just stay in and keep warm and comfortable. As a dutiful husband, I cycle to the supermarket and buy her a bottle of whisky, so, she can have hot lemonade and whisky drinks.

We spend the day exploring Gottingen, by bicycle. This is all very enjoyable, cycle tracks everywhere. The cycle tracks even have traffic lights to control the flow!

I realise that Kathleen is probably not cut out for life here. Everyone abides by the rules, waits for the "little green man" before crossing the road etc, waiting is not really Kathleen's forte. The problem is, the local population obey the rules, and, assume everyone else will, so, when you get a "wild card" potential disaster beckons.

Wednesday 25th September 2013.

Mundane tasks have to be attended to, ie clothes washing etc,so, we head for a campsite.

Back to Eschwege, Knaus Campingpark (N51 11’ 29” E10 10’ 7”).

All washing done, and lunch over, we spend the afternoon, cycling around the lake, drinking beer in the sunshine, before cycling around the lake again, just for the hell of it. 

It is warm and sunny, but, autumn is definitely here, as can be seen from the colours of the leaves on the trees.











Thursday 26th September 2013.

We arrive Geisenheim, Am Campingplatz 1, (N49 58' 45" E7 57' 27"), an ACSI site.

We get a spot right on the banks of the Rhine.

Once parked, we cycle into Rudesheim, for a late lunch.

Rudesheim is a stopping off point for the river cruise boats which ply the Rhine, so, is a rather busy place, but, still very pretty, if you get away from the river front street.

Berlin

Saturday 21st September 2013.

We get the bus into Berlin centre. I am given the task of memorising the bus stop, where we get on, so we can find our way back.

I understand the logic. If the task is given to me, and it goes wrong, ie, we get lost, it is my fault.

I carefully study the information at the bus stop. I know we are in an area called Spandau, and, there is a sign on the bus stop reading "Rathaus - Spandau", I know this translates as Town Hall, Spandau. Quite reasonably, I think, I conclude this stop is at the townhall, Spandau. I am a little puzzled that I cannot see any large building which may resemble a Town Hall, but, hey, you cannot have everything.

The bus (M45), arrives, as expected, we board, pay our fare and take our seats. The bus sets off, stopping here and there, as buses do. After 5-10 minutes, we stop outside of a large and impressive building, which is clearly, Spandau Town Hall. This means of course, wherever we got on, it was not "Rathuas - Spandau". I decide to keep this bit of information to myself, and worry about it on the way back.

In due course we arrive at the Zoo on the edge of Tiergarten. I am given the task of reading the street map, and trying to keep Kathleen under control as she walks off in various directions at double time.

We manage to take-in the Willem Memorial Cathedral, mostly a ruin (bombed in 1943) and in the process of being restored. There is quite a sobering exhibition of the futility of war.

I manage to keep Kathleen on track, and we walk through Tiergarten, to the "Victory Monument". I am not sure which victory this commemorates, clearly not 1918 or 1945.

I jest of course, the Germans may have lost the (don't mention the) war,but, they certainly won the peace, this place is magnificent. There is success showing everywhere you look. Everything just works! 

Next we come to a memorial erected by the former USSR, to the two thousand Russian soldiers who died in June 1945, during the final days of Berlin's resistance.

There cannot ever be a good time to be killed I suppose, but, fancy getting killed when it was just about all over, talk about bad luck!

Next, we wander along to the Brandenburgh Gate. A memorable sight, from many a cold war spy film, but, I thought, not nearly as impressive in real life as it appears in films.

Basically, it is not as big as I imagined it would be. What is impressive is the quality of the restoration, from photographs taken after the fall of Berlin, this area was a heap of rubble, you would never know it now.

Through the Brandenburgh Gate, and you are into what was, until some 25 or so years

ago, East Berlin of course. All very nasty at the time, but, I think it is all a bit tacky now.

There is no doubt however, they are certainly laughing about is now, people dressed as border guards, etc etc.

Plus one person dressed (I think) as a character out of Star Wars. I am not sure what point he or she is trying to make, well, there is at least one in every major city I suppose.

Inevitably there are people driving around in restored Trabant cars, the ultimate joke of the Soviet system. 

Finally, a very novel bar, where you can sit on your bar stool, drinking your beer, and peddle to get your exercise! The bar is propelled around the streets by the efforts of the drinkers, I am not sure who, if anyone is steering however!

We take in the restored Parliament building, and then wander to Potsdam Platz, via the memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe.

At Potsdam Platz, there are some bits of the infamous Berlin Wall, not in their original state, or original situation, but as exhibits from the past.

We stroll some more, in the autumn sunshine, and come across a canal, with this definately "uncity like" view. 

As we wander past pavement bars, we notice everyone is drinking enormous glasses of beer.

We have to have one, and take a seat to have a drink and be entertained, by this chap doing hand stands on a skateboard, followed by an acrobat and a very young boy, playing the clarinet.

One last thing to do, before catching the bus back to the stellplatze, have a Bratwurst.

I cannot convince Kathleen to join me, so, she amuses herself taking a photograph of this very simple, but, effective public toilet (for men), and women who can pee standing up.






We board the bus, and, I have to now own up, I do not know where to get off. We have to wait until we reach the "Rathaus", and then take a guess at the appropriate stop, the fact I am writing this, tells you, we made it.

I redeem myself by finding the nearest Catholic Church, via Google.

It is not far (about 2.5km, the sat-nav tells us), but, we have no idea in which direction, and, since the sat-nav is built into the van, we cannot take it with us.

Google maps to the rescue, and we are able to get both a walking route and a cycling route.

Sunday 22nd September 2013.

 It is dry and mild, so, it is decided, we will cycle to the church. It is a mixture of dedicated cycletrack and on road cycle lane, so, not difficult at all.

Working on the off chance that I am wrong, and there is a god, and, he is a Catholic, I do hope he will take note of the efforts I have gone to, to get one of his flock (Kathleen) to church, no matter where we are.

While Kathleen does the church thing, I have a wander of the surrounding streets, a combination of looking for interesting sights, and checking out likely eating places for our lunch.

The plan is to have a little gentle exercise (walking or cycling) after Mass, followed by Sunday Lunch (although, I doubt it will be Roast beef and Yorkshire pudding).

We are still in Spandua district, but, this area is the "old town", at least I think that is what the term "altstadt" means.

There is a river or canal at the end of the street, with a busy lock.

There are also some rather quaint buildings which according to the signs on them date back to the 1700's.

Kathleen duly emerges from church at 11:00, too early to eat, and it is decided, we will cycle for an hour or so, to sharpen our appetite.


We head to the lock, and then cycle along the river, we think we are heading in the

direction of Berlin Centre, but, since we have no map, the strategy is to keep the River in view, so we do not get lost.

Suitably hungry, park our bicycles and have a very enjoyable lunch.

We walk a little to allow lunch to settle, then head for a coffee and cake shop, to drink delicious coffee and devour enormous portions of cake.



The Stellplatze is on the site of a former barracks. There is a large building next to the site, which we assume was the barracks, and, which now appears to be used as flats. As we arrive back, we are greeted by a very enthusiastic group of some 8 or so children, aged not more than 10 years, waving from one of the windows.

Kathleen waves back. This turns out to be a mistake. Before we can blink, we are surrounded by them. From their appearance, they are immigrants, they are fascinated by our folding bicycles. They speak a little English and in addition to introducing themselves, ask for a ride on the bicycles. We oblige, and two at a time, all 8 of them have a turn at whizzing around the site. Some are not too steady at riding a bicycle, Kathleen is concerned they will injure themselves (or someone else!). We discover while they can speak enough English to ask for a turn, they do not appear to understand "be careful" or "Ok, that is enough". Kathleen eventually coaxes them off the bicycles with biscuits all round.

Once they have demolished the biscuits, they run around the site, playing hide and seek, and, as far as we can see, doing no harm, just being children.

But later in the afternoon, there is some form of upset, and eventually, the Police are called. Kathleen's German is not up to understanding what is going on and we are not brought into the discussion, nor are we ejected from the site, so, I assume it is not us who have caused the upset by indulging them. A mystery.