A light hearted and (I hope) amusing record of some of our Campervan Trips.
It is mainly intended to inform friends and family where we are, plus, to keep our children updated on what is happening to their inheritance.
I do try to include details of Camp Sites and Aires, we visit. Checkout the "labels" listed in the right margin,
Please comment if you feel inclined, at least then I know I am not talking to myself (again).
A really cool start to the day, at 2C, but, it soon warms up, and we enjoy 19C by mid-morning. The place is jam-packed. I unload the bicycles and off we cycle, initially, along the Canal Briare, but, the cycle track is not smooth enough for Kathleen's taste, so, we back track and follow the Canal Lateral de Loire, to Chatillon-sur-Loire. The area is criss-crossed by water ways, at least two canals which are in current use,
plus an obsolete version of the Canal Lateral, and of course, the River Loire, it is very confusing, plus of course, if you end up on the "wrong side" of a water-way, they only option is to peddle to the next bridge to cross. We do just over 15 miles. This time, I do get a beer, on Kathleen, By chance, we meet our English neighbours, Deryk and Lesley, near Chatillon-sur-Loire, as they sit eating their picnic lunch, prior to continuing their hunt for hidden "geo-caches".
The weather forecast says, rain, this evening, but, as I lie in bed at 7:00am, I can hear rain pattering on the roof, this is not good. Surprisingly, after the poor start, there is no more rain, although, it stays cloudy all day, temperatures are still reasonable however at 18C. We set off on the scooter to find the Le Clerc, Hypermarket, to do the obligatory shopping for Wine, etc. We do not find the Le Clerc, but, we do find a Carrefour, and do some serious (ie lots of) wine buying, to fill up the available carrying space on the scooter. After lunch, another attempt to find Le Clerc, success, more wine is acquired. You may gather from this, signposting and advertising of Supermarkets is not a French strong point, you would be right! Eventually, 19:00, the rain comes. Saturday, 1st October 2016 Torrential rain, all night, not that it bothers me, I am a sound sleeper! Rain slowly clears, by 10:30, we are able to walk to the market, without being soaked. Typical market, we actually buy something (universal plug, for the sink, ours appears to have been lost, by someone, who uses it when washing their hair, no names, no packdrill), a whole 1Euro, spent, on a pack containing four universal sink plugs. In the evening, with black clouds threatening another downpour, which, fortunately, did not materialise, we take a three mile scooter ride to Saint-Martin-sur-Ocre, so Kathleen can go to Church. Sunday, 2nd October 2016 Brilliant sunshine and a clear blue sky this morning, but, it is a very autumnal 9C, warming to 17C by mid afternoon. Sunday morning, for Kathleen, is taken up with major hair-care operations. In addition, we wash everything which can be washed and charge everything which can be charged, fill up with water etc, because we expect to spend a few nights "roughing it" on Aires, as we make our way north to Dunkirk.
Scooter loaded onto trailer, along with bicycles. All packed and ready to go, by 17:00. The site had been almost empty, but, around lunch time, we get new neighbours, a very elderly French couple, with what appears to be enough equipment for a months stay, and, it all appears to be brand new. Late in the afternoon, there is an influx of campervans and caravans, mostly Dutch (no surprise there) and, it would appear travelling in groups of two or three.
Monday, 3rd October 2016
Autumn is here today, only 1C, and fog on the river. But, the sun clears away the fog, for a very pleasant sunny day, with a balmy 20C by mid afternoon. I cannot resist an attempt at some "arty" shots of the fog, on the RIver Loire. Plenty of time, because today, we plan to travel only about nine miles, along the Loire, to Briare. Briare, is the meeting point of two canals, and, there is an impressive acquaduct
carrying the Canal over the River Loire. We cycled there a few days ago, and, there is an Aire, where we plan to stay for a couple of days, and cycle along the Briare Canal. We call at Le Clerc, to fill up with diesel and do some food shopping, then, final alcohol shopping, at the Lidl, just outside of Briare. There is at actually at least two Aires, possibly three. We choose the most scenic one, along side the canal. No Services, but a pleasant view. N47 38'3" E2 44'25". It is just across the road from the "official" Aire.
It is such a short distance, it is hardly worth the effort of giving a map, but, for completeness, here it is. The short journey, in video.
We arrive, just after 12:00 lunch time, and get one of the last two spaces, so, clearly a popular spot, the moral of the story is, be early! We are parked next to another English couple, Deryk and Lesley, from Hampshire, although, Deryk is really a Sunderland lad, his parents emigrated to the Hayes in the 1930's! A delightful couple, who are indulging their love of "geo-caching".
Once settled, and a quick lunch, Kathleen suggests she will treat me to a glass of Rose, in one of the village cafe/bars. All very fine, we select a bar, Kathleen orders to very nice, but, rather expensive (12Euro) glasses (yes, that is 6Euro per glass, not per bottle!) of Rose, and, we are given "free" local spicy sausage, in a small bowl. Fortunately, Kathleen does not like the sausage, so, I get to eat it all. Now for the finale, Kathleen has forgotten her purse!, so, I get to pay for my own "treat". While sitting in the sun, watching the boats go by, an elderly chap, riding on a mobility scooter, towing a cycle trailer, with a collie dog riding in it. Stops, and chats to us. If his tale is even half true, he has had a remarkable life. Joined the Sutherland Highlanders as a boy soldier, became an explosives expert and rose to the rank of Warrant Officer. After retirement from the Army, he sailed the canals of France, for several years, in his canal boat. At some point, at Briare, he was initially "delayed" by a defect on the Pont Canal. When that was repaired, and as he prepared to leave, he suffered a heart attack, and was further delayed. He subsequently had heart surgery and a tumour removed from his lung, courtesy of the French Health Service. Now, aged 82, he is still here, living on a house boat, attended by a daily carer, and a series of nurses, all provided by the French Healthcare System. He also "works" as nightwatchman in the Marina, exchange for a free berth and services. As I say, hardly a "standard" life story.
Wednesday, 28th September 2016 Blue sky and sunshine again this morning. There are literally hundreds of birds flying along the river. Not sure what kind of bird, some are Herons, readily recognisable, but there are also many which look like Gulls or Terns, plus lots which look like Guillemots, but, we are hundreds of miles from the sea, and I thought Guillemots and Terns were sea birds?. What ever they are, they are having a field day feeding on, what appears to be, a plentiful supply of fish. They are catching so many, they are dropping some of it, as they fly over the bridge crossing the river. After yesterday's cycling activities, today, is a riding around on the scooter day. We go to Briare, via the D951, since we cannot cross the river, using the "Pont du Canal", we have to travel on as far as Chatillon-sur-Loire, where there is a bridge with a 2.7metre height limit, fine on the scooter, but, not in the campervan. We, eventually, find the Lidl in Briare, and clear the shelves (literally) of Kathleen's current favourite, White Zindanfell Rose. I have previously cleared out the underseat storage area and the top box on the scooter, so, we are able to fill up the space with Wine, Gin, oh, and some food. The rest of the day is spent washing clothes (Kathleen) and lying about in the Sun (both of us). A little bit of excitement, right at the end of the day, at 10:00 in the evening, in the pitch black, a British Caravan outfit arrives. We watch as they try to reverse and park in the dark, with little success, and a few near misses with trees and shrubbery! Eventually, Kathleen goes out and speaks to them to explain, there is a pitch next to us, where they can simply drive in and leave the car hitched up, until they sort things out, tomorrow, in daylight. They gratefully accept this idea, and are soon parked, rather than disturbing the neighbours. We assume, they must be novices, or, that some unforeseen circumstance must have caused them to have arrived so late, and in total darkness, but, the next day as Kathleen interrogates (sorry, chats to) them, it appears, no, they are experienced caravanners, and, the late arrival had been "planned". It certainly was not evident last night. Thursday, 29th September 2016 Another gloriously sunny day, 25C. The weather forecast says it is going to be a cool 18C tomorrow, and, raining, but, apart from a breeze developing late in the afternoon, there is no sign of a change in the weather today.
Breakfast over, we cycle along the Loire Cycle Route, north, my plan (not declared to Kathleen of course), is to cycle to Sully-sur-Loire, about 20 miles north of here. The first four miles or so, are easy going, but, at Saint-Gondon, The cycle route leaves the river bank and goes "cross-country", through very pleasant, but, let us say "undulating terrain", or, as Kathleen would say, "oh no, look at that hill". We pass through Saint-Florent, and on to Lion-en-Sullias.
At this point, when we have cycled about 11 miles, I break the news of my "plan" to cycle to Sully-sure-Loire, about another 9 miles. This is not well received, particularly when the only Bar come breadshop come everything, in Lion-en-Sullias, is closed at 11;45, despite the displayed openning times which clearly state, it should be open. So, we leave the signposted cycle route and peddle along the quiet D951 to return to Saint-Gondon, where we find a friendly bar where we have beer and "frites". We have a
portion of chips, equivalent to those Kathleen paid 4.50Euro for at the motorway aire, for 2Euro. Fortified, we rejoin the cycle route and return to Gien, to complete just over18 miles. We chance upon an Aire, in Saint-Gondon, a large level parking area, near the village centre (and bar), N47 41.993 E2 32.613. There is no signs suggesting there is a fee, there appear to be only waste water and toilet disposal facilities, but space for 8-10 vans. There is only one there as we pass.
A heavy overnight dew, and a cloudy, cool, start to the day, but, by lunch-time, it is 22C sunbathing weather. Essential foodstuffs are required, so, we have to go shopping. We have been to Gien before, and, vaguely recall to location of the Lidl, or, we think we do. We peddle across the bridge, and through the town, but, no Lidl to be found, instead, we find an Auchan, which supplies our needs. After Auchan, we head for the church, to check Mass times, ready for Sunday. The church is at the top of a very steep hill. Kathleen is very proud of herself because she managed to cycle all of the way to the top, while I had to get off and walk the last 20 metres or so. My excuse is, I was carrying additional weight (ie 2 litres of milk, some bananas, etc), plus.
On our return, I check with the all knowing Google, sure enough, Lidl WAS where we thought it was, but, it has closed down. Not much of a recommendation for Gien, if it cannot even support a discount retailer, like Lidl. In the afternoon, Kathleen enters into a hair-care session, so, I take my bicycle and explore along the banks of the Loire, to check out the cycle track for Kathleen's proposed outing, tomorrow, weather permitting.
More Brits arrive, as neighbours, so, after cycling / hair washing / hair drying etc, the rest of the afternoon is spent sitting in the sun, chatting and drinking beer. What a hard life.
Tuesday, 27th September 2016 Another sunny day, with temperature at 23C by lunch time.
We cycle along the Loire to Briare, "famous" as the point where two canals (Canal Lateral de Loire and Canal de Briare) meet and cross the River Loire, via a rather grand metal bridge.. There is a cycle track, shown on our tourist map, but, Kathleen opts to follow the (quiet) D951, because it looks more direct. We do not know it at this point, but, this turns out to be a wise decision. Briare turns out to be a pretty place, with, of
course, the famous canal bridge. We stop in the, very pleasant, square, initially, for a refreshing beer, but we succumb to the atmosphere and rumbling stomachs to eventually, decide to have lunch and some cool Rose wine.
We choose from the 12Euro menu, Kathleen has a rather delicious Beef Bourgoine, whilst I select a pork dish. Mine too is delicious, but, judging from the shape and appearance, it is what we would
call pigs trotters, although Kathleen reckons it was what we would call Pork Hock. Delicious anyway. Kathleen, being her talkative self, after a little drink, has a conversation, in French, with a chap who turns out to be a Russian. We eventually tear ourselves away from lunch and have a little explore, the church, because it may be where Kathleen has to come to on Sunday, and of course the Marina on the canal, where there is a Campervan Aire.
Here we meet a couple from Carlisle, wandering their way through France, and spend some time swapping Aires and Campsite information. We also learn that the Newcastle - Amsterdam crossing may be cheaper than we have been lead to believe, they paid "only" £420 return. Eventually, we make our way back, I convince Kathleen we should use the cycle track.
The cycle track is good, at least there is no traffic to contend with, although Kathleen is not happy on two counts: a) it is undulating, unlike the D951, which is flat. b) it is in the shade of trees, so, no sun tan as you peddle. At the ten mile mark, we come to a particularly steep incline, which proves that beer, lunch, wine, and hills are not a good mixture. Then, we come to a section where the cycle track is closed, no apparent reason, just a barrier and a "Route Barre" sign, so, we have to rejoin the road anyway. Sixteen miles and a good lunch, an enjoyable outing.
Possibly the best weather we have had since arriving here (not that it has been bad up until now!), clear blue sky and 27C.
Much to my surprise, Kathleen suggests jaunt on the scooter, she really is getting into this! We first ride along to Varenes-sous-Dun, and double check church times for this evening, since, we plan to leave tomorrow morning. Next, we ride around to a few villages with "interesting" names (ie Saints you have never heard of), which Kathleen has picked out from the tourist map, given to us by the chap who runs the campsite.
All of the places we go to are rather beautiful, very old, and quaint, every one of them has a functioning church, with doors open. But, they all have another thing in common, they do not even have a cafe or bar. We end our scooter ride with a visit to Chateau de Dree, about 4 kilometers outside La Clayette. The correct spelling has an accent over the first "e", but, my English keyboard does not do accents. The Chateau and grounds are very impressive, apparently, bought by some
(very) rich person and restored to their former glory. It certainly is beautiful and magnificent, although, I am not sure it would have been worth a visit to Madame Guillotene in 1765 or when ever it was the French had a cull of their Aristocracy. In the evening, Kathleen cycles to church, in Varennes-sous-Duns. On our return, we chat to Rodger and Fiona for a short while. Today, they have cycled 40Km. This, plus a few glasses of Rose, inspires Kathleen to begin talking positively about a cycling holiday, taking the Newcastle -> Amsterdam Ferry. I quickly check the distance, Amsterdam to Saverne, just over 400 miles, a trifle ambitious, I will have to think
of somewhere a little nearer. Arnhem, is dismissed, it is only about 80 miles, from Amsterdam. Google tells me, there is a Canal, Amsterdam to the Rhine, passing through Utrecht, Kathleen is enthusiastic about this (after the second glass). I shall have to handle this carefully, it might actually be a "goer"!
Sunday, 25th September 2016
Final (?) farewells to Rodger and Fiona, it looks as if they are about to have another beautiful day, weatherwise, in La Clayette. They plan to move on to La Charite-sur-Loire, shortly, we do not know it at this point, but, they are soon to be disappointed!
Today, is about to turn into one of our less successful days of this trip. Not a lot goes right, but, all ends well. We first head to St Satur, Les Portes de Sancerre N47 20'32" E2 51'58", but, neither of us are entirely happy with this site. First not so good thing to happen, Kathleen suggests a stop for "a sandwich", we find pleasant Aire de Repose (stopping place). There is a Kiosk selling "frites", Kathleen decides we will have some, and, she will pay, 4.50Euro EACH, for chips! A bit steep! When we arrive (about 12:30), reception is closed for lunch, until 15:00. There is a code controlled barrier, and no where adequate to park a Campervan (or car/caravan). We manage to squeeze into the "visitors" car park, and have a walk around the site. The facilties leave a lot to be desired. Then we encounter an English couple who arrived just as reception was closing for "lunch". They were admitted, but, not checked-in, now, they cannot get their Electricity to work. They are thinking of leaving, and going instead to a site they have used before at Charite-sur-Loire. It is, they tell us, a beautiful site, with an interesting town. This just happens to be the site which Rodger and Fiona are planning to go to next. Although it means going back, approximately 10 miles, we decide to go there. It begins to rain, this day is just getting better and better! We have no co-ordinates or detailed address for the place, and naively assume it will be signposted. Big mistake. It is signposted, on very small signs, and, only if you are arriving from the South, we are arriving from the North. Eventually, courtesy of Google maps, we arrive at Camping de La Saulaie, La Charite-sur-Loire, Quai de La Saulaie, 58400. It is CLOSED. I subsequently checked the website, which says it is open April to September, well, it is September, but, it is closed. We have no contact details for Rodger and Fiona, so, no way to tell them that their next destination is closed. So, what to do? As we sit pondering, the English couple from St Satur arrive, they too are disappointed. We decide to head for Gien, they are going south, Spain eventually, so, they head for Nevers. We arrive at Gien, Camping Touristique de Gien N47 40'56" E2 37'23", the sun comes out, the site seems pleasant, things are looking up. The trip so far.
Thursday, 22nd September 2016 A real, autumn morning, a chilly 8C, to start, but warming nicely, as the sun rises above the trees, to reach a very pleasant 25C. One set of English neighbours leave today, in their caravan, heading home, and, our French neighbour packs her tent and leaves. This would appear to leave just four of us on site, ourselves, plus another couple (Rodger and Fiona) from Portsmouth, in a Campervan. We at first think, there are no supermarkets here in La Clayette, the ever resourceful Google, tells us there is an Aldi a short distance away, on the edge of town, so, we unload the scooter, from the trailer, and head off there. Next task, having the scooter off the trailer, is to check out the "alternative" church (with Mass on Saturday evening), in the adjoining village, Varennes-sous-Dun. On our way there, we pass a large "Intermarche Hypermarket", within walking distance of the campsite! Time for lunch. We cycle to La Clayette, to Restaurant La Belle Epoche, right opposite the Chateau. We have choices from the set menu's, plus a bottle of red, but the food is good, and plentiful, plus, towards the end of the meal, one of the staff begins to serenade the remaining diners by playing French music, from the turn of the 1900's, on an accordian! Great lunch! Of course, we do have to cycle back to the van, followed by falling asleep in the sun. Friday, 23rd September 2016 Another cool start, followed by a glorious 25C day. After a little "house work", ie clothes washing, we ride the 19km (12 miles) to Charolles, on the scooter.
Charolles, is an anti-climax, after riding 12 miles to get there. It is a very pretty place, but, not actually much there, we did not even find a decent bar! A very well maintained church, which we visit, in deference to the fact we have parked the scooter in their car-park. Kathleen enjoyed the ride, apart from a railway crossing which I failed to spot in time, and crossed at 50mph, with a bit of a
thump. I remembered it on the way back. Our helmet Inter-Com, has never really been excellent, but, last night, I succumbed and read the instructions, which means today, I was able to listen to Kathleen's instructions as we rode along. We spend the evening chatting and drinking wine with Rodger and Fiona. They are an interesting pair, approximately nine years older than us, he has had both hips replaced, and, open heart surgery! Not only are they pottering around France in their Campervan, but, they have been out cycling every day since they arrived here. When they were 70, they cycled from Portsmouth, via Caen, to Switzerland. As I say, an interesting pair.
Today, we leave Tournus and head for a place called La Clayette, only about 50 miles south of here. Kathleen has picked it out of the ACSI book, on the basis "the write-up sounds nice", let us hope it is accurate. First impressions are certainly favourable, as we enter the town, we are greeted with
this view, of a chateau, overlooking a lake. The campsite, La Clayette, Les Bryeres N46 17'30" E 4 19' 10", also overlooks the lake. There are very few people at the site, so, we are spoiled for choice as to where to place ourselves. So far, so good, everything seems in order, and, the sun is shining, it is a pleasant 22C. A light lunch, then a 4 mile cycle ride along the lake and into town to explore.
The all important (to Kathleen) church is found, and Mass times are determined. We pick out a restaurant or two, for possible future lunch-time sessions. I think this place is quite promising, although, it is a bit "undulating", so, I doubt there will be a lot of cycling done. But, Kathleen is still enthusiastic to use the scooter, and, there are plenty of nearby towns and villages to visit, including Charolles, of Charollais Beef fame.
