Thursday 26 April 2018

Camping La Grappe d'Or, Meursalt

Tuesday, 24th April 2018

Sunny with a few clouds today, 18C when we leave Tain-L'Hermitage at about 08:30.


We had been intending to head for Vichy today, but, Robin and Ruby gave us a glowing recommendation for a site at Meursault, Camping La Grappe d'Or, N46 59' 8.5" E4 46' 7.00". It so happens we had a previous recommendation for the same place, from a couple in an Autotrail, heading north a couple of days ago. 

Even although our route takes us through Lyon, or at least on the Lyon Ring Road, it is 156 easy miles.

The site at Meursault lives up to the recommendations, it is beautifully located on the edge of the village, among Vineyards.

However the praise is somewhat tarnished, when we meet with the "other" couple who recommended the place, (the Autotrailers as we christened them). They have been here since they left Tain-L'Hermitage, but, apparently, they were burgled last night, along with several other Motorhomes / Caravans. 

They had money and jewellery stolen, while they slept!

Despite this rather off-putting information, we book in for a couple of nights.

Although the site is not in the ACSI book, as far as we can see, they accept our ACSI card, and charge ACSI prices (15Euro/night, including EHU).

Unusually for a French, or indeed mainland Europe Campsite, they want paying upfront.

There are, according to the information leaflet, numerous cycling opportunities.










Wednesday, 25th April 2018


We are much further North now, and, the weather reflects this, 12C this morning, with a high of 20C, with blue skies.

Good cycling weather, so, we follow one of the several signposted cycle tracks, through the vineyards to Beaune, via a couple of small "wine villages".

The cycle tracks are excellent, good surface and traffic free, but, despite the overall "flatness" of the landscape, the route is more than a little "up and down".


Despite the "ups" Kathleen made it all of the way without having to get off and walk, sadly, not without complaint however!

I offered my usual advice "if you save your breath for peddling rather than moaning, you will have no problem". Don so quietly, from a distance of course, no toll me.

There are many people working in the vineyards, mostly, it would appear (I have zero farming knowledge), ploughing up weeds from between the rows of vines, using specialist tractors.

But, we also come across this chap, doing it "the old fashioned way" with a horse and plough.


Beaune is a beautifully preserved small French town, with the usual church, dating back to the middle ages, (uninterrupted by Henry VIII).

There is also a market in full swing, to keep Kathleen occupied.

There and back is just short of 14 miles, which is a little more than the 8km (5 miles) each way, in the information leaflet, presumably, we went "off route" at some point.













Thursday 26th April 2018

A much cooler day today, 10C in the morning, and only rising to 18C, by lunch time, brisk wind from the North.

Working from the leaflet supplied by the campsite, we cycle along the cycle route in the opposite direction to yesterday, ie, to Santanay.

Even more "up and down" than yesterday, or, perhaps, our legs had not yet recovered from yesterday.

The wind, it appears, is blowing in our face on the way there, so, promises to give us a helping hand on the return.



But, on the way back, appears to have turned a little, and is blowing from the side or, in our faces again. Proves that God has a sense of humour I suppose.

Just under 20 miles there and back, refreshments in Santenay and Banana Split in Meursault.




















Monday 23 April 2018

Tain-l'Hermitage, Municipal les Lacs (N45 4' 0' E4 51'6").

Friday, 20th April 2018

Blue skies a pleasant 18C in the morning, but rising to 25C in the afternoon

A cycle ride along the banks of the River Rhone, to Bourg-Lès-Valence, 13 easy miles, in the cool of the morning. 

We decide we need lunch, but, none of the places actually look too appealing, eventually, we choose what appears to be the least worse option. 

What a pleasant surprise, behind a not terribly impressive facade Restaurant San Marco has a delightful terrace, with efficient staff, and, very tasty food!



Weighed down by a lunch, plus dessert and a substantial amount of wine, we cycle 12 miles back to Tain-L'Hermitage, in the baking heat, to make 25 miles for the day.

Sunday approaches, so into town to checking out the Mass times, for Kathleen.

A balmy evening of sitting outside, drinking cocktails (purchased ready made from Lidl), and watching the barges sail up and down the River Rhone.





















Saturday, 21st April 2018

Another scorcher, 27C by lunch time.


After yesterday's cycling, we have a more laid back day, we cycle along to Tain-L'Hermitage, and the town of Tournon-sur-Rhone, on the other side of the River Rhone. 

Both places have markets on a Saturday, Tourney is the larger of the two.

Kathleen dips into her purse and buys herself some shorts.

In the afternoon a couple (Robin and Ruby) arrive (English) who typify the sort of characters you meet, roaming Europe in Campervans. They were born in 1937, so, that makes them 81 years old. Still roaming Europe in a VW Campervan. They admit, they have not yet mastered how to use a Sat-Nav, so, do it the "old fashioned way" with actual maps.

Sunday, 22nd April 2018

Blue sky and 27C again today.

Kathleen does Church, in Tain-L'Hermitage.

Church duties over, then, before lunch, we cycle 14 miles along the River Rhone, following cycle track on the other side (ie Touron-sur-Rhone side) of the river, and, going North.

Our (my) first and second choice restaurants  ( and Le Comptoir Gourmandare full, a vindication of my choice perhaps?, third choice (La Terrasse), is a disappointment.




















Monday, 23rd April 2018

Another sunny day, although with a little cloud, unlike previous days, which have been clear blue sky. By lunch time it is 24C, which inevitably leads to to a brief shower and thunder by 18:00.

The intrepid Robin and Ruby leave today, heading deeper into the Ardeche.

We do a circular cycle route to the bridge at Roche de Glun, then across the bridge onto the island in the middle of the river, pause for refreshments at the hotel.

The route is "advertised" on information boards along the river bank, supposedly 8km (5 miles), but, we clock up 13 miles including back up the other side of the river to Tournon-sur-Rhone, then, over the bridge again, to Tain-L'Hermitage.

We were even able to spot our van, from the other side of the river, it is the van on the right hand side of the line of vans visible.

As we peddled along, I promised Kathleen lunch at the very popular kiosk on the river bank, beside the swan's next.

Unfortunately, when we get there, it is closed, apparently Monday is their day off!

Thursday 19 April 2018

Les Mures, 15th - 19th April 2018

Sunday, 15th April 2018

Sunny and 20C, hopefully, this is going to last.

A cycle ride to Port Grimaud, for a very pleasant lunch.

Monday, 16th April 2018


Another sunny day and 22C.

Everything looks so much better, when the sun is shining!

We cycle to St Maxime, and have one final attempt to find the St Maxime Lidl, but, without success.

A snack and a couple of drinks sitting by the Marina, followed by cycling back to Les Mures, gives us eleven miles of cycling.

Lazing in the sun for the rest of the day.

We met a couple in an Autotrail, from County Durham, who are also staying on Les Mures, they call around in the evening, they are leaving to morrow and heading West, toward the Camargue.

Tuesday, 17th April 2018

Another sunny day, 22C.


We cycle to St Tropez, (about 6 miles away), and have a wander through the streets away from the crowds around the harbour / marina.

















A visit to the church, as always.



















Then we have what I think is the most expensive drink I have ever had, in a bar overlooking the moored boats, a beer and a panache (Shandy), medium (50cl), 38Euro! that is roughly £35! 

Kathleen goes to the toilet, three times, just to get her (well my) monies worth.

Don't think we will be going back to that bar!

In the afternoon, we laze in the sun.

New neighbours arrive. Four elderly Italian ladies in a Motorhome, and a young German couple with a small child, in a VW campervan.

The site is becoming more busy.

Wednesday, 18th April 2018

Sunny, blue sky and 22C.

Although we have cycled to Coglin, and, we have cycled past the signs for Port Coglin, as we make our way to St Tropez, we have not, as far as I recall, ever actually been into the Marina area of Port Coglin.

We rectify that omission today, as part of our morning ten mile cycle ride.

What a pleasant surprise!

It is much more "upmarket" than Port Grimuad, and much quieter that St Tropez, very nice indeed.




















Thursday, 19th April 2018

A bright sunny morning, as we leave Les Mures and drive the just over 200 miles to
Tain-l'Hermitage, Municipal les Lacs (N45 4' 0' E4 51'6"), an ASCI site where we stayed on our way south, about three weeks ago.

What a difference in the weather, in only three weeks. Last time we were here, the temperature was 10C, today, when we arrive, late afternoon, it is a roasting 28C !

The site is just about full, which we did not expect.



Sunday 15 April 2018

Les Mures, Grimaud 6th - 14th April 2018

Friday, 6th April 2018

Dry and sunny, but windy.

We give the cycling a rest, and walk to Port Grimaud. A very pleasant lunch.

Out German neighbours are packing up to go.


Saturday, 7th April 2018

Sunny with cloud, warm.

Our German neighbours have slipped away before we are up, before it is light even!

We cycle to St Tropez, so, when combined with Kathleen's cycling to church, we have just over 61 miles of walking and cycling this week.

Sunday, 8th April and Monday 9th April 2018

Rain, wind, then more rain, repeated for two days!

Tuesday, 10th April 2018

Heavy overnight rain, but, dry and sunny at breakfast time.

It is a trick! We cycle to St Tropez, and then to the supermarket, eleven miles in total. 

As we come out of the supermarket, an "April shower", otherwise known as a torrential downpour, complete with thunder.

We arrive back at the van like two drowned rats, Kathleen claims to be invigorated by it, I think she must be on something!

Wednesday, 11th April 2018 and Thursday 12th April 2018

I thought I may as well just include these two days as one entry. They effectively just merged into one long boring 48 hour period.

Mild, but, heavy cloud, pouring with rain, with interludes of hailstones and thunder, and this goes on, none-stop for two days! 

There are enormous puddles of water everywhere.

Fortunately, we have enough essentials (wine, beer, food) to avoid going out.

We are warm and dry in the van of course, but, being cooped up in such close quarters for 48 hours, things are getting dangerous! I have hidden all sharp objects!

Friday, 13th April 2018

Hurray, blue sky, sunshine and 20C.

We cycle to the supermarket to replenish stocks of wine, beer and food.

Having been "trapped" indoors for two days with the weather, we make the most of our "freedom" and spend the day cycling and sitting in the sun.

Saturday, 14th April 2018

Another sunny day.

We have been promising ourselves we will cycle to Coglin, so, off we go.

Coglin appears to be a "real" French town, rather than a tourist place, a little frayed at the edges, but, bustling and with plenty of cafes etc to stop, have a drink and people watch. There is a market going on in the square, nothing spectacular, but, browse worthy.

Coglin also boasts a Lidl and a Le Clerc.

We cycle back via St Tropez, to make a circuit of approximately 12 miles.

Church for Kathleen in the evening, at Port Grimuad, followed by our usual Saturday evening fare, ie Pizza.






Thursday 5 April 2018

Les Mures contd 3rd April - 5th April

Tuesday, 3rd April 2018

Weather disappointing. Dry, mild, but, blowing a gale.

A cycle ride to supermarket for wine etc, followed by reading.

Wednesday, 4th April 2018

Weather disappointing, cloudy, raining steadily, forecast says thunder to come!

Half way through the morning, rain stops, and we are able to get out for some fresh air. After a while "cooped up in van" it becomes worrying, I have to lock away all of the sharp knives, just in case I get in Kathleen's way once too often.

When cycling, Google maps gave a route to Grimaud village, which included a short "off road" section, avoiding the flyover bridge at Port Grimaud, but, in practice, we could not find the point at which it left the D559. Today, while walking, we were able to find the entry and exit points for the track, so, we are ready for next time on the bicycles.

So, despite the weather, a rewarding day, five miles plus walked, new cycle/walking route found, and, a pleasant light lunch in Port Grimaud.

The sun appears briefly at 18:00!

Thursday, 5th April 2018

A bright sunny morning, which lasts all day, 21C.

Cycling in the morning, an impressive 17 miles.

Reading, and experimenting with cooking on our built-in barbecue, in the afternoon.

Monday 2 April 2018

Les Mures (Contd)

Sunday, 1st April 2018


What a night, howling gale, everyone running around taking their awning in!

Not much better in the morning, still blowing a gale, it looks as if Kathleen's church plan (ie cycle to the church in St Maxime, for 11:00) are not going to happen, it will be a walk to Port Grimaud for 18:30, I suspect.

Hair care has commenced, so, that is the morning taken care of!

Excellent lunch at the onsite Bistro, we were even able to sit outside in the sun.


Sunday evening Kathleen does the church bit, at Port Grimaud.

Meanwhile, I wander the marina, looking at the expensive boats moored there.























Monday, 2nd April 2018


Bright sunny morning.

Kathleen has plans to attend the church in Grimaud Village, for at least some of the Weekends we are here.

Accordingly, we set off to cycle to Grimaud, this morning. It is only about 5 miles away, and, fortunately, we do not have a map with contours marked. I say fortunately, because, if we had, I am sure we would not have set off on this excursion.


Other than a rather dicey road junction as we leave the coast road and join the D61A, it is, initially, easy going, ie, fairly flat.

Grimaud is a medieval hill top village, towards the four mile mark, we come to the hill, if goes up for about three quarters of a mile.

This is Kathleen, looking all very serene, at a bar, at the top of the hill. 

However, I think all plans to cycle here, and up the hill, to the church on the top, on a Sunday, have been quietly forgotten!


One consolation of course, it is almost all downhill, on the way back! Although, as often happens in these circumstances, the wind has got up, and, is blowing in our faces













Saturday 31 March 2018

Les Mures

Friday, 30th March 2018


The weather forecast, according to Apple, promises rain, but, although the morning is cool, it is dry. By 10:30 it is a sitting in the sun 17C.

We have collected a heap of washing, so, while the washing machine attends to that, we sit drinking coffee and people watching. 

Perhaps the problem of the nearest Supermarket is solved, while emptying the washing machine, a chance conversion with another Brit, and we learn that there is a Geant Supermarket about two miles away, on the way to St Tropez. Just as well, we are out of essentials, ie wine.

We cycle to Port Grimuad, where Google tells us there is "Stations of the Cross" at the Catholic Church there. 

While Kathleen partakes of the Good Friday things, I risk life and limb finding the Supermarket. 

I eventually find the Geant, just like a typical English Supermarket on a holiday weekend, it is very, very busy.  I stock up on Gin and wine for Kathleen, plus wine and various goodies (food) for me.

The weather deteriorates, cloud and the threat of rain, so, maybe Apple is going to be right after all.

Saturday, 31st March 2018

Heavy overnight rain, but, dry when morning comes.

We cycle to St Maxime and a little beyond, with the intention of getting a good mileage in, but, Easter weather obviously applies here too. Black clouds begin to gather, we cut our ride short and head for home. We just make it before the thunder and rain starts. just under 10 miles, better than nothing.

For the rest of the day, rain stops play.