Lahnstein then Moselle, Neumagen-Dhron

Thursday, 19th September 2019

A first for this trip, fog!, only 7C at 08:00, but, the fog cleared and a pleasant 19C by lunch time.

An easy drive to Lahnstein, Camping Wolfsmuhle (N50 18'52" E07 37'40"), although, the last few miles, to the actual Campsite, seem rather convoluted, I don't recall this, from our last visit, although, it is nine years ago!

In the intervening nine years, the number of static caravans and Chalets seems to have increased, never a good sign IMHO. I somehow feel we will not be staying here long.

After a quick lunch, we set off, on bicycles, to explore the route to Koblenz. We follow a young lady, who appears to know where she is going, unfortunately, it is not where we want to go, and, we end up following a rather busy and complicated route, until we eventually find the cycle track heading for Koblenz, along the Rhine. On our return, we find the way we should have taken, along the banks of the River Lahn, to a Marina (with Beer Garden, stop for refreshment), then over a pedestrian footbridge, to emerge near the campsite. We clock up just over 13 miles. 

Friday, 20th September 2019

A very chilly 6C this morning, but, by the time we are set-up on the Moselle, it is a very pleasant 21C.

Although we have been to Camping Wolfsmuhle before, neither of us feel "comfortable" here, it has gone downhill.

I choose four potential Stellplatz or sites, along the Moselle, and off we go.

I had expected to drive along the Moselle, from Koblenz, but, the exit off the motorway was closed (roadworks), and, the Sat-Nav then routed on a good fast, but boring route of about 76miles.

My first choice was a Stellplatz at a Marina, Neumagen-Dhron, Marina Mittelmosel (N49.85257, E6.8927). 

It is right on the banks of the River Moselle, clean, tidy, well organised, clean and working Showers/Toilets, Motorhome service point, and, the real clincher, a Church five minutes walk away. It also has a pleasant village, within walking distance, and, the Moselle Cycle Route runs past the Marina.

It is pricey (IMHO) as Stellplatz go, at 17Euro/night, including EHU, but, it is nevertheless, clearly a very popular Stellplatz, we arrive at just on 12:00, and, there are only two places left. We, and the Dutch couple in the van behind us, nab them. They are adjacent, and the Dutch couple, now our neighbours, turn out to be very pleasant and friendly.

Booking in is a bit of a challenge, unusually, the Receptionist speaks no English, and, my few words of German are no help, but, we manage.

The Stellplatz is yet another "Cash only" place, so, usefully, there is a bank, and cash machines in the Village.

We check out the Church (Mass 09:30 on Sunday, so, Kathleen will have time to make my breakfast, before she goes to Church), and, have a little wander around the village.

Neumagen, is, according to Tourist Information signs in the village, the oldest Wine Making Village in Germany.

The rest of the day is spent reading our books, and,  lazing in the sun.








Saturday, 21st September 2019


A very pleasant 13C first thing this morning, then, 25C by lunch time.

We cycle along the Moselle, or, since we are in Germany, I suppose, I should say Mosel. 

Most of the way is dedicated cycle route, a little undulating as in places, the route goes through the Vineyards, rather than following the river bank.

We go ten miles before turning back.

There are lots and lots of people cycling, it seems like the thing to do on a sunny Saturday morning.

It being such a hot day, a stop at a Bier Garten is called for.













Some "shopping" is required after lunch. I think, perhaps, "the backpack" will be pressed into service. 

Wrong, I am despatched to find the Netto (about half a mile away, it turns out, isn't Google wonderful?).

In addition to the "essentials", I return with Chocolate (white for Kathleen), only to be complained at because Kathleen has not yet finished the last bar I bought for her (about a week ago!). So, while she is reading her book, I give her lessons in eating chocolate. I tell her, "it is easy, just sit then, read page, then, stuff some chocolate in your mouth, continue until it is all gone". It is not difficult is it?

We have another amusing interlude with the Receptionist, who speaks no English. Kathleen wants to use the washing machine. We are puzzling over the instructions, in German of course, when the Receptionist walks by. She gives us verbal instructions, in German of course, which does not really clarify anything. Eventually, she pushes a few buttons on the machine, and asks for the money to put in the slot. I give her 4 Euro, she opens up the cash box, changes to 2 x 2 Euro coins into small value coins and gives me back some more coins. According to my counting, I came out ahead. 

Geisenheim, Rheingau Camping N49.979271, E7.95744 contd...

Monday, 16th September 2019

After yesterday's scorcher, today seems cool at only 14C in the morning, rising to 22C by lunch time.

We plan to leave, tomorrow morning, so, today we have an easy day, a trip into Rudesheim to mix with the tourists, followed by packing away bicycles etc.

We do not plan to move far, only about 20 miles along the Rhine, to Oberwesel. Currently undecided if we should stay at Camping Schonburgblick (N50 06'08" E07 44'11"), or at the Stellplatz nearby (N50.10828, E7.72729), 

Tuesday, 17th September 2019

Although the weather forecast was not too promising, it turns our to be another beautiful day, sunny and 20C, but, with a stiff breeze.

An easy drive along the Rhine, entering the section referred to as the "Romantic Rhine".

Our planned destination, Oberwesel, is on the opposite site of the Rhine, so, the Sat-Nav directs us via a small ferry, it may be small, but, it operates very smoothly, and, other than having to make room for a Tourist Coach to get off the ferry, before we could get on, all is well, for 10Euro.

First disappointment, contrary to the reviews on SearchForSites, the Stellplaz (N50.10828, E7.72729), is disappointing, most of the space occupied by parked cars, adjacent to a busy road, and, no visible EHU, it is 8Euro/24hr, not worth it, in our view. 

On to Camping Schonburgblick (N50 06'08" E07 44'11"), just a short distance away. This site has a good location, by the Rhine, but, a slightly overcrowded appearance, and, it is full, except for a small area just outside the entrance, which has EHU for Motorhomes. Kathleen is not happy with this, so, off we go.

A few miles further on, we chance upon Campingplatz Loreleyblick (N50 8'37" E7 43'20"). It is again, right on the bank of the Rhine. 

Fairly large, and not immediately to Kathleen's liking, but, we decide to stay, for at least one night. After a little explore, Kathleen decides "it is better than she thought", so, we may stay longer, watch this space!

As mentioned earlier, this section of the Rhine is popularly known as the "Romantic Rhine", with castles, either on islands in the river, or, perched on the steep sides of the gorge.










Wednesday, 18th September 2019

Very cool start, compared to what we have been used to, but, sunny, and quickly warming to 20C.

This site, Campingplatz Loreleyblick (N50 8'37" E7 43'20"), is excellent, except for the railway line, running nearby. Trains continue throughout the night, and, they are LOUD. Living, as we do, in an urban area, we are used to some background noise, but, this is definitely in the foreground! Don't think we will stay a third night!

We have new German neighbours, a much younger couple, only 30 something, I would guess, so, significantly younger than the average geriatric Motorhomes  They are very friendly, and wave us off on our cycling outing, they are drinking white wine at 10:00 in the morning!

We cycle ten miles, towards Koblenz, following the excellent Rhine cycle track.

We are still in the "Romantic Rhine", so, plenty of Castles, perched on the hill sides. 

Also, cruise boats and barges keeping pace with us, as we cycle along.

We eventually reach Boppard, where we stop for lunch.

Our lack of German Language skills are adequately demonstrated, Kathleen gets a Chocolate Muffin, despite asking, in her best German, for a Blueberry Muffin.

I manage to get Belgian Waffles, as requested, but, minus the honey!

After lunch, we wander the shops, cannot complain at this, as if I would, Kathleen has been very restrained this trip, with respect to window shopping.. 

It would appear this shopkeeper has read my comments about, souvenirs, being made in China!

I am conned, sorry, persuaded into agreeing that Kathleen needs a (smart) backpack, so that she can help carry the shopping, when we visit Lidl Etc.

Needless to say, she does not have her

purse with her, so, I am 18Euro lighter.

I very much doubt the backpack will ever contain any groceries, however, it does have a need internal pocket, which I point out, could be used to carry her purse and glasses (so I don't have to read the menu to her), in future. This is not well received.

Just thought I would include a photograph of said backpack in action (empty of course), although we do make a toilet stop at St Gear, which then results in more shopping, (not bad, for someone who does not have her purse with her), and, an item is actually carried in the backpack.

Kathllen's comment, "it is heavier with something in it",,,,, err, yes, that fits with the laws of Physics, I suppose. 

Geisenheim, Rheingau Camping N49.979271, E7.95744

Friday, 13th September 2019

Cloudy, but warm, with occasional bursts of sunshine 23C.

A cycle ride along the Rhine Cycleway, for about ten miles, Picnic lunch, and, a Radler (shandy) in a riverside Bier Garten, paid for by Kathleen, a rare event!

A couple of weeks ago, Kathleen clocked up 91 miles of cycling, in one week. Since then, dare I say, a slight obsession has developed, this week, we have done "only" 69.6 miles, no good enough!

Next we cycle into Rudesheim, to check out Church times for Kathleen, she has to see it with her own eyes, myself/Google are not trusted. It is 17:00 tomorrow (Saturday) evening, so, a repeat of 2013, I suspect, ie Church, drinks in the square, from the "wine kiosk", a meal, more drinks in the square, then, wobble back to the site, on the bikes!

Rudesheim is much more "touristy" than Geidenheim, still very nice, but, a definite tendency toward tacky "souvenir" shops, and, much busier than Geisenheim.

Saturday, 14th September 2019

"Only" 14C in the morning, but, by lunch time, sunny, and 23C.

The section of the Rhine from here, towards Koblenz, is popularly know as the "Romantic Rhine", the bank as are more hilly and covered in vineyards, with castles dotted along the way.

That is where we cycle today, a trivial six miles, a poor show by our usual efforts.

On the return, we pause in Rudesheim, so Kathleen could try out these large seats,

which seem to be very popular here for some reason. they do seem remarkably popular, but, personally, I don't find them comfortable.

The day is rounded off, for me, by sitting in the square in Rudesheim, workingman way through a selection of German wines, on sale at a kiosk in the square.

It works like this, you hire a glass for 3Euro, you have it filled/refilled with wine, for 2Euro. At the end, you return the glass, and get 3Euro back. Very civilised!

When Kathleen emerges from church, we find a very nice restaurant and eat.

We have noticed, in Germany, there appears to be a "cash economy", ie a reluctance to accept plastic.

When we have eaten, I notice that another customer is paying with plastic, so, I ask to pay by Debit card (Starling Debit Card, no fees for foreign currency transactions). 

The waiter appears reluctant, and, I have to go to a "cash desk" to complete the transaction, but, otherwise, no problem.

I venture to ask the waiter, why, in Germany, there appears to be a reluctance to use Plastic?

His answer is, that, Germans value their privacy, and, that, using Plastic leaves an electronic trail, ie "they" know, when you ate, where you ate, what you ate.

All seems a bit strange to me, but, I suppose, in a Country which spawned the Gestapo, and the Stazi, perhaps, he has a point?

Just one man's view of course, maybe it has nothing to do with privacy.  

Sunday, 15th September 2019.

An absolutely stunning day for mid-September, clear blue sky, full sunshine, 27C.

Now, before I recount this tale, you must understand, Kathleen is most definitely NOT obsessive (she says).

Kathleen, checking her Runkeeper mileage, for the week, finds she has 81 miles clocked up, for the week so far. It is decided, we will go out cycling, taking a picnic lunch, but, with option to eat at a Riverside bar, if we see one.

We duly cycle ten miles along the Rhine, just past a place called Eltville.

We turn back, and stop off in Eltville for a celebratory drink, what are we celebrating? Kathleen's, achievement of, what will be, over 100 miles of cycling, in one week. She is even feeling so pleased with herself that she buys a very pleasant lunch at Rosenstubchen, a pavement bar/restaurant in Eltville.

There are numerous Cruise Boats today, some day cruises, and some of the really large ones where people spend a Holiday cruising the Rhine, and beyond. It is clear that many Orientals (Chinese?) are now taking such cruises, and, places like Rudesheim have groups of them, photographing everything in sight. It seems rather ironic, to me, that they will, possibly, be taking home "souvenirs" from Germany, which, were almost certainly manufactured in China, shipped halfway around the world, in a Container, and, will return in as holiday luggage?

Camping Strandbad, Mannheim (N49.450137, E8.445048) contd...

Tuesday, 10th September 2019

A bright sunny day, 21C, by lunch time, even at 09:00 it is warm enough for people to be having a picnic breakfast, on the banks of the Rhine.

We decide to cycle north, along the Rhine, trying to keep to the opposite bank (ie the eastern bank) too yesterday. It proves quite difficult, since we are soon in a busy built-up area, then, before we know it, in central Mannheim.

We find a bridge, and, cross to the western bank. It is still an urban area, but, with excellent cycling infrastructure.

Soon we are cycling alongside a massive BASF Factory, not that you would readily know it was a factory, since it is all neatly landscaped and very well kept.

We eventually give up on the idea of riding beyond the edge of the city, and turn

around, with the intention of finding somewhere to eat our picnic lunch.

We eventually find what we think is a public park, but, it turns out to be the grounds of a BASF training building. 

The grounds appear to be open to the public, well, that is, no-one challenges two elderly cyclists sitting on a park bench, eating their sandwiches and drink bottles of railer (shandy).

Fortified, we head off, in search of ice-cream. We recall that, on our way here, we passed a bar/cafe, on the Rhine Promenade, which, we suspect, will sell ice-cream.

We find the Rhine Bridge, and, even find our way up, onto the cycle track, but, at the other side we are completely baffled by the maze of cycle tracks, and tunnels, leading in every direction. There are sign posts, but, since we do not know where any of the places are, they are of little use. We can SEE where we want to be, but, there is a railway line, between us and the river. 

After several abortive tries along various tracks, including riding into the University, Kathleen eventually, deduces the correct tunnel, and, we find the bar/cafe to have our ice-cream.

We arrive back at Camping Strandbad having ridden 17 miles.

The site seems much busier today, and, soon, we have new neighbours, a couple of Aussies (man and wife), who are Motor Racing (GP) fans and have been to the Belgian Grand-prix and the Italian Grand-Prix. They are on their way to Frankfurt to drop off their hired Campervan, and fly home. 

We spend a pleasant evening chatting to them. 

They borrow my van cleaning gear (bucket, sponge, chamois leather) to clean their van, before returning it, and, give us their unused milk, kitchen roll, and, a pack of serviettes, they must be posh Aussies, serviettes, in a camper van!

Wednesday, 11th September 2019

Another beautiful day, 25C by lunch time.

Our Aussie neighbours leave at about 10:00, leaving us with even more surplus items, sugar, jam, eggs!

We have planned a "lazy" day, a few chores and some reading.

Kathleen does some clothes washing, first, then we decide to find the nearest Lidl, for wine and treats.

We set off on our bicycles, according to Google, it is about 2 miles away, in a place called Lindenhof. Eventually, we ask a very helpful lady, who tells us, in perfect English, how to find the Lidl. We arrive having covered about 4 miles!

Big disappointment, this Lidl does not appear to sell one of my favourite treats, they are a sort of Danish Pastry, a spiral of pastry, with lots of raisons embedded in it. They sell them in UK, and, in France, but, not here. I have to settle for bar(s) of chocolate.

We end up with more shopping than I can fit in my backpack, so, I end up with a back pack, and a carrier bag tied to the back pack!

We take a risk on finding our way back, without retracing our steps, relying on my gut instinct for directions, which Kathleen, of course, does not trust,

My instincts are correct, we find our way back to Camping Strandbad, no problem, and, it is only about 2.5 miles, quite why Google directed us the way it did, I have no idea!

Thursday, 12th September 2019

The day starts nicely, sunny and warm, but, as we travel toward Koblenz, it become overcast, with the odd shower, however, by 16:00, at Geisenheim, it is sunny and a very warm 23C.

From what I have already said, we decide to move on from Camping Strandbad, and head for Geisenheim, a place we have visited before. 

Approximately 75 miles, almost all motorway.

We had tried to find Geisenheim Am Rhein / Rheingau Camping N49.979271, E7.95744, in the ACSI Book, without success. 

On arrival, we understand what, it is no longer an ACSI site. 

We are even puzzled by the site name, it was called Geisenheim Am Rhein, the last time we were here (2013), and, according to SearchForSites website, it still is, however, the paperwork we are given is headed Rheingau Camping. 

No matter what the name, the site is good, and, we are allocated an excellent location, overlooking the Rhine, with ducks swimming up and down the river, and, a constant procession of barges and cruise boats sailing past.

For the first time, since leaving Cite Europe, Calais, we have several UK Vans onsite.

After lunch, Kathleen disappears to attend to hair washing duties, whilst I get us "set up".

After our evening meal, we have a short (3,5 mile) cycle ride to explore the immediate area, and, locate the nearest Church and Lidl.

Sadly, it would appear the Geisenheim Lidl does not sell my favourite pastry either!

Camping Strandbad, Mannheim (N49.450137, E8.445048)

Monday, 9th September 2019


The rain has stopped, but, still cloudy and cool. 

We decide to move on, it is very pretty here at Eberbach, but, the weather does not look promising.

A very short drive, approximately 35 miles, to Mannheim, Camping Strandbad (N49.450137, E8.445048). A site on the banks of the River Rhine, just outside of Mannheim. It has mixed reviews, on SearchForSites, (one good one bad).So far, it appears to be a typical "city" campsite, ie, a bit rough at the edges, but, contrary to the (bad) review, the warden seems a perfectly likeable chap, to us. One point, not mentioned in the reviews, is the extremely tight entrance, and narrow approach road, I don't know what you would do if you met something coming the other way, certainly beyond my reversing skills to reverse through that entrance!

The site is on level ground, on the banks of the River Rhine, we can almost claim to have a view of the Rhine, it is just visible, past the telegraph pole, between the trees!

We arrived around lunch time, so, after lunch, we set off on the bicycles for a "small" explore.

Apparently, it is not permitted to ride bicycles in "the park", but, there is an excellent cycle route, following the river (we are told after inadvertently cycling where we should not have been).

The "small" explore takes us on a 14 mile round trip.

First, we ride through a forested area on the banks of the Rhine, then into a more urban, park area.

Kathleen is having an adventurous day, we cross the river on a large road/railway bridge (with dedicated cycle track of course, cycle onto an island in the Rhine, through a park, then, back via another even larger bridge, again with dedicated cycle track.

We find our way remarkably well, with only a

slight "hiccup" after crossing the second bridge, the cycle route takes us some distance from the river, and, we are aware that there are several "channels" and islands in the river, and, that we must ensure we end up on the "correct" bank.

No problem, after a small detour, planned of course, through a rather shabby area of warehouses and docks, we emerge, back on the cycle track we recognise.

To Eberbach, Germany

Friday, 6th September 2019

Another pleasant day is promised, but, today we are leaving Pont-a-Mousson, and heading for Germany.

A quick good bye, to our Dutch neighbours, who have been polite enough to barely mention Brexit, and, away we go, via Lidl, for wine.

Approximately 160 miles, mostly on free, excellent quality, but, very busy German Motorways.

Eberbach is approximately 20 miles upriver from Heidleburg, on the River Necker. Camping Eberbach (N49 27'38" E8 58'57"), is alongside the river, on the opposite bank to most of the town of Eberbach. It is an ACSI Site, 18Euro/night.

The church is located, ready for Sunday! 

Saturday, 7^th September 2019

Camping Eberbach (N49 27'38" E8 58'57") contd...

A grey and cool day, with occasional light showers, only 15C, rather chilly.

Domestic chores, Kathleen interacts with the very bossy young lady in reception, to obtain the key to use the Washing Machines. That should be interesting, a referee will probably be required! 

But, I have no time to spectate, I have to assemble the clothes dryer, under the awning, out of the rain, ready for the wet clothes. 

Actually, the young lady in reception is not really bossy, more sort of straight talking and very efficient, in a German sort of way. They must often wonder, “how on earth did we manage to lose the war?”.

The rain does not appear to have deterred the rowers, why are practicing, up and down the river, followed by coaches giving instructions and encouragement(?) through megaphones. I always thought that rowing was a quintissentiually English pastime, but, it would appear to be something else we have in common with our German cousins.

Sunday, 8th September 2019

Camping Eberbach (N49 27'38" E8 58'57") contd...

Oh dear! It has poured with rain all night, and, it is forecast to continue for most of today, not very good, plus, we are parked on grass, at the bottom of a hill.

Kathleen does her church stuff.

I am delegated the task of searching out a suitable restaurant (with Italian food), for lunch, which I do, but, when El Jefe emerges from church, the mind has changed, and, no longer wants Italian Food, so, we go to a place which appears busy, with locals(?) and Kathleen risks a Vienna Schnitzel, which she very much enjoys.

We decline a 'sweet". and, instead, visit a nearby cake shop, for enormous and very tasty pieces of cake.

The rain comes and goes, all day.