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Wednesday, 2nd May 2018.
Despite what the weather forecast said, it is a dry and sunny day.
There is a cool breeze, which turns out to be a blessing.
We are not normally into "tourist attractions", but, you cannot come to Versailles, and not visit the famous Palace of Versailles.
The Site Reception sell tickets, but, when we go there, they have none left for today. Instead, we obtain two day passes at the Tourist Information Office, a short distance from the Palace. It costs 2.5Euro extra, per person, in "commission", but, saves us standing in a long queue.
The young lady who sells us the tickets advises us not to do the Chateau/Palace that day, since there are already enormous queues (1.5hours!), but rather to "do" the gardens, park, Trianon and Marie-Antoinettes Estate on day 1, and arrive early (09:00) on day 2 to "do" the Palace.
This Kathleen looking fresh, at this point, we have cycled only about 2.5 miles
I think this is probably good advice, the Estate is enormous. We cycle there from the campsite on our bicycles, which means we
have the bicycles to cycle around the grounds and between the various sections. We cycle and walk 15 miles on day 1, I would estimate 12 miles of that was within the Estate of Versailles!.
We manage to "do":
- significant area of the Park
- the Gardens
- The Grand Canal
- The Trianon
- Le Petite Trianon
- Marie-Antoinettes Estate
Of then all, personally, I preferred Marie-Antoinette's Estate, it was more "human scale" than the grandiose Gardens etc.
Thursday, 3rd May 2018
Sunny, dry and mild.
Following the advice of the young lady in Tourist Information, we are up early, and have a rather hair raising cycle ride, through rush hour traffic, to the Palace of Versailles by 09:00.
There is already a queue, but, not too long, and, it would appear only one tour bus has arrived this early in the morning.
We are in the Palace within 15 minutes, which even impatient Kathleen is happy with.
Perhaps, I am a Philistine, but, I find it rather disappointing.
It is of course impressively huge, and, no doubt, it must have created a skills shortage throughout Europe, when it was under construction, there are so many Paintings, Statues, Painted Frescoes, items of furniture and so on and so on.
Personally, I find the outside more impressive than the inside, particularly the Gardens and Water "features".
Shortly before lunch time we have had our fill of walking through the endless rooms of Versailles Palace, but, I am sure it would be possible to spend a whole day in there, if you actually know and understand what you are looking at.
We spot a sign to Cathederal de St Louis, and head for that, but, when we get there, there is a funeral in progress, so, Kathleen does not feel it right to wander around the church, whilst the funeral service was in progress.
Next, we head for the Market de Notre Dame.
Our map makes it look pretty easy, but, we do not find it so and have an unintentional extended cycling tour of the suburbs of Versailles.
Eventually, we find our way to the market, and, more importantly, to a restaurant for lunch.
It is a quaint little place, just off the market square, up a narrow staircase, in a tiny room with only five tables. The whole enterprise seems to be run (ie chef, waiter, etc etc) by two pleasant young ladies.
We have an very pleasant lunch, which Kathleen declares was worth the effort we have had to get here, so, it must have been good!
Sunday, 29th April 2018
Substantial thunder storm overnight, with heavy rain. Bright and sunny by 10:00, this morning.
After our cycling exertions of the previous two days, we have a day of doing little today.
A short walk along the Canal du Nivernais, for two or so miles, more thunderstorms by 16:00.
Monday, 30th April 2018
Dreadful weather this morning, strong wind, heavy rain, and cold at only 9C. It does not get much better, as the day progresses. There will be no outdoor activities today, I fear.
Tuesday, 1st May 2018
Dry and sunny as we pack up to leave.
A hundred and twenty five miles, mostly on excellent roads, mostly D606 and N6, then a free bit of motorway (A6) as we approach the outer edge of Paris.
Today (1st May) is a Public Holiday in France, and, it would appear just about everything is closed, only a few foreign registered trucks on the road, all of the French ones are parked in in Services, which are stacked out with them.
Our problem is, we need a few "essentials" and every supermarket we pass is closed. Eventually detour into a small village, and find a bread shop open.
Even the Palace of Versailles is closed today, one of the very days people may wish to visit, you would have thought?
Camping Huttopia Versailles (N48 47'39" E2 9'40") is an ACSI site. Fairly typical "city site" not perfect, but, useful to visit which ever major attraction it is near. We are first of all allocated a pitch which is rather waterlogged (it has clearly rained here a lot recently), but, Kathleen is quickly on the job to get us moved to a better and dryer pitch.
It is certainly well located for visiting the Palace of Versailles, it is perhaps 40 minutes walk from Campsite, or quite cyclable, or, there are buses.
Friday, 27th April 2018
Brilliant sunshine, and a promise of 22C today, but, we are off, heading further north, as we make our way slowly home.
I think I am right in saying, this is the first site I have ever chosen. Kathleen is normally "in charge" of site selection. Hopefully, it will measure up to her exacting standards!
We (well I), had some fun when packing to go. Kathleen hates spiders, and, as I dismantled the camping table, there was a rather large, brown, spider emerged. It scuttled off under some of the gear lying waiting to be packed, before I could "deal with it".
When Kathleen arrived to help (aka supervise), I did warn her about the spider, but, as usual, she did her own thing and began rummaging in the "gear". Sure enough, out came the spider. Sadly, I did not have the camera to hand to record her hopping about and screaming
Even if I say so myself, Les Ceriselles (N47.706384 E3.635451), Vincelles on arrival, looks like a good choice.
Very well kept site, friendly staff, an ACSI site, and only 15Euro/night, including 10amp EHU.
We arrive to sunshine and 20C, so, weather is kind.
Grass pitches, but, with "hardened" pitches for Motorhomes, just in case it is wet.
We try out our integrated barbecue, which came with our new van, for the first time.
Well, to be more precise, I try out the new barbecue, while Kathleen relaxes in the sun.
I have to admit, the barbecue is not a total success, a combination of shop bought kebabs, which are not unto scratch (Casino) and lack of familiarity with the equipment.
Next time will be better.
A stroll to the village, to check out the most important thing for Kathleen ie Mass times for the weekend, followed by a walk along the canal.
Saturday, 28th April 2018
The weather forecast is not good for today. It is dry and cool to start, with rain forecast by lunch time and only 14C.
We decide to cycle to Auxerre, which we estimate is about five miles away along the Canal du Nivernais.
Our calculations are clearly wrong, since we do an 18 miles round trip!
Most of the route is along tarmac surfaced cycle / walking route.
Not the best day we have had, weatherise, but, stunning scenery, and, when we eventually reach Auxerre, there is a free music concert on the river bank. A small
orchestra, playing classical music.
We make it back with minutes to spare, before the rain starts!, it would appear the weather forecast was exactly right.
Hopefully, the rain will have stopped before this evening, so Kathleen can walk to the church in the village, without getting wet.
Kathleen is awarded celebrity status at Church, when the Priest discovers she is a visitor from England, much to her embarrassment.
I spend what I suspect is a fruitless hour looking for likely eating places for tomorrow. I only find two places which appear to be "functioning", one is a bit "burger like" for Kathleen's taste, I suspect, and the other seems to have a menu consisting of French "delicacies" ie snails, tripe sausages! not one for us I fear.
Tuesday, 24th April 2018
Sunny with a few clouds today, 18C when we leave Tain-L'Hermitage at about 08:30.
We had been intending to head for Vichy today, but, Robin and Ruby gave us a glowing recommendation for a site at Meursault, Camping La Grappe d'Or, N46 59' 8.5" E4 46' 7.00". It so happens we had a previous recommendation for the same place, from a couple in an Autotrail, heading north a couple of days ago.
Even although our route takes us through Lyon, or at least on the Lyon Ring Road, it is 156 easy miles.
The site at Meursault lives up to the recommendations, it is beautifully located on the edge of the village, among Vineyards.
However the praise is somewhat tarnished, when we meet with the "other" couple who recommended the place, (the Autotrailers as we christened them). They have been here since they left Tain-L'Hermitage, but, apparently, they were burgled last night, along with several other Motorhomes / Caravans.
They had money and jewellery stolen, while they slept!
Despite this rather off-putting information, we book in for a couple of nights.
Although the site is not in the ACSI book, as far as we can see, they accept our ACSI card, and charge ACSI prices (15Euro/night, including EHU).
Unusually for a French, or indeed mainland Europe Campsite, they want paying upfront.
There are, according to the information leaflet, numerous cycling opportunities.
Wednesday, 25th April 2018
We are much further North now, and, the weather reflects this, 12C this morning, with a high of 20C, with blue skies.
Good cycling weather, so, we follow one of the several signposted cycle tracks, through the vineyards to Beaune, via a couple of small "wine villages".
The cycle tracks are excellent, good surface and traffic free, but, despite the overall "flatness" of the landscape, the route is more than a little "up and down".
Despite the "ups" Kathleen made it all of the way without having to get off and walk, sadly, not without complaint however!
I offered my usual advice "if you save your breath for peddling rather than moaning, you will have no problem". Don so quietly, from a distance of course, no toll me.
There are many people working in the vineyards, mostly, it would appear (I have zero farming knowledge), ploughing up weeds from between the rows of vines, using specialist tractors.
But, we also come across this chap, doing it "the old fashioned way" with a horse and plough.
Beaune is a beautifully preserved small French town, with the usual church, dating back to the middle ages, (uninterrupted by Henry VIII).
There is also a market in full swing, to keep Kathleen occupied.
There and back is just short of 14 miles, which is a little more than the 8km (5 miles) each way, in the information leaflet, presumably, we went "off route" at some point.
Thursday 26th April 2018
A much cooler day today, 10C in the morning, and only rising to 18C, by lunch time, brisk wind from the North.
Working from the leaflet supplied by the campsite, we cycle along the cycle route in the opposite direction to yesterday, ie, to Santanay.
Even more "up and down" than yesterday, or, perhaps, our legs had not yet recovered from yesterday.
The wind, it appears, is blowing in our face on the way there, so, promises to give us a helping hand on the return.
But, on the way back, appears to have turned a little, and is blowing from the side or, in our faces again. Proves that God has a sense of humour I suppose.
Just under 20 miles there and back, refreshments in Santenay and Banana Split in Meursault.
Friday, 20th April 2018
Blue skies a pleasant 18C in the morning, but rising to 25C in the afternoon
A cycle ride along the banks of the River Rhone, to Bourg-Lès-Valence, 13 easy miles, in the cool of the morning.
We decide we need lunch, but, none of the places actually look too appealing, eventually, we choose what appears to be the least worse option.
What a pleasant surprise, behind a not terribly impressive facade Restaurant San Marco has a delightful terrace, with efficient staff, and, very tasty food!
Weighed down by a lunch, plus dessert and a substantial amount of wine, we cycle 12 miles back to Tain-L'Hermitage, in the baking heat, to make 25 miles for the day.
Sunday approaches, so into town to checking out the Mass times, for Kathleen.
A balmy evening of sitting outside, drinking cocktails (purchased ready made from Lidl), and watching the barges sail up and down the River Rhone.
Saturday, 21st April 2018
Another scorcher, 27C by lunch time.
After yesterday's cycling, we have a more laid back day, we cycle along to Tain-L'Hermitage, and the town of Tournon-sur-Rhone, on the other side of the River Rhone.
Both places have markets on a Saturday, Tourney is the larger of the two.
Kathleen dips into her purse and buys herself some shorts.
In the afternoon a couple (Robin and Ruby) arrive (English) who typify the sort of characters you meet, roaming Europe in Campervans. They were born in 1937, so, that makes them 81 years old. Still roaming Europe in a VW Campervan. They admit, they have not yet mastered how to use a Sat-Nav, so, do it the "old fashioned way" with actual maps.
Sunday, 22nd April 2018
Blue sky and 27C again today.
Kathleen does Church, in Tain-L'Hermitage.
Church duties over, then, before lunch, we cycle 14 miles along the River Rhone, following cycle track on the other side (ie Touron-sur-Rhone side) of the river, and, going North.
Our (my) first and second choice restaurants ( and Le Comptoir Gourmand) are full, a vindication of my choice perhaps?, third choice (La Terrasse), is a disappointment.
Monday, 23rd April 2018
Another sunny day, although with a little cloud, unlike previous days, which have been clear blue sky. By lunch time it is 24C, which inevitably leads to to a brief shower and thunder by 18:00.
The intrepid Robin and Ruby leave today, heading deeper into the Ardeche.
We do a circular cycle route to the bridge at Roche de Glun, then across the bridge onto the island in the middle of the river, pause for refreshments at the hotel.
The route is "advertised" on information boards along the river bank, supposedly 8km (5 miles), but, we clock up 13 miles including back up the other side of the river to Tournon-sur-Rhone, then, over the bridge again, to Tain-L'Hermitage.
We were even able to spot our van, from the other side of the river, it is the van on the right hand side of the line of vans visible.
As we peddled along, I promised Kathleen lunch at the very popular kiosk on the river bank, beside the swan's next.
Unfortunately, when we get there, it is closed, apparently Monday is their day off!
