Saturday 13th April 2013 - Sunday 14th April 2013

All around us are Brits (English, Irish, Welsh and Scots), we cannot just say “English” now, they are all so prickly about it. Just a couple of Dutch, Germans and French to add to the mix.

Yesterday, another British van arrived, from their accents, I think we can safely say English.

On the back of their van, they have slogans and jokes.

Their surname is Wylde, so, emblazoned across the top of the back of the van, they have the words “Wylde Thing”.  

Other slogans include:

“Don’t steal, the Government hates competition”.

“Adventure before Dementia”.

“Old Age Travellers”.

A cycle ride to the beach, then along the promenade in Quarteira, to Vilamoura Marina.

A nice five mile cycle to work up our appetite.

Lunch at the Vilamoura Marina, and very nice it is too.

To think, we only have seven more weeks to go, isn’t life so unfair?

It is Sunday, so, Church for Kathleen.

While Kathleen is away at church, I busy myself with a few small chores, then go out on my bicycle to try and find the route to the beach behind the campsite. We can see the small road, cars, people and cyclists going along it, but we cannot find where the track emerges onto the main road.

Armed with some directions from one of the “residents” here, I still fail to find it, but, I do find another track to a beach on the other side of the lagoon.

Better luck tomorrow, perhaps.

The mystery of the full purse.

I meet Kathleen from Church and we walk the length of the promenade to work up an appetite for lunch.

As we walk, we decide to have lunch at a restaurant (Fantasia Restaurant) which has been recommended to us by the Wylde Campers.

I check my wallet, not much cash left, I will need to go to a cash machine.

Now Kathleen and I, operate an “equality” system, Kathleen has her money, I have mine, and we share the costs.

Each time I have drawn money from the cash machine, Kathleen too, has drawn money.

I have spent all of mine, Kathleen still has a wad of Euros, in her purse.

How can that be?

I think the phrase “Kathleen has her money, I have mine, and we share the costs.” Should read “Kathleen has her money, and Kathleen has my money, and the costs come out of my money!”..

It is decided we will eat at Fantasia, and big wow, Kathleen will pay.

While we peruse the menu, I treat us to a couple of cocktails (Pinacolada and Tequila Sunrise) with my last 10Euro.

Mystery solved, I am just too generous.

I should point out, the move to cocktails is partly my brother John’s fault. John commented on Facebook (to a photograph of Kathleen), that it was the first time he had seen her without a glass of red wine in her hand. 

Kathleen felt the need to show, she is not addicted to Red Wine or Gin, she will in fact drink just about anything.

The mystery of the third empty beer bottle.

After lunch, we return to the van, have a cold beer and chill out, well, fall asleep to be more precise.

After a while, when we wake up, we have a tidy up of the empties.

Big mystery, there are three empty bottles, there are, you may have observed only two of us.

Now, the bottles of beer are only 50cents in Lidl, so, as far as I am concerned, it is not worth worrying about.

Kathleen however is not so easily fobbed off.

Have we had a burglar who helped himself to a beer while we were comatose?

While pondering this mystery, she decides to make a coffee to shake our senses into action.

Kathleen's cup is already dirty, mine is clean.

Mystery solved, after Church, Kathleen had a coffee (hence, the dirty cup), I had a beer (hence, the third bottle).

I have been caught out, Alzheimer’s is here.

 

Wednesday 10th April 2013 - Friday 12th April 2013

We make the short journey to Quarteira.

Find the site absolutely no problem, when there is not a cycle race and road closures. Orbitur Quarteira N37 4’ 2”, W8 5’ 14”.

We are still using our Orbitur Club vouchers, so, 9Euro per night, including Electricity and Wifi. The Wifi is a Wifi Point, so, not usable from the van, which is a bit of a shame. This is one of the sites we visited on our first ever long Campervan trip. That was five or six years ago now, so memories of the place are hazy. First impressions are favourable.

There are lots and lots of these birds around, with blue backs. I think, they are Jays, but, not totally sure about that. It is obvious from their gait and the way they fly, they are related to Magpies.

Portugal, like the area of Northern Spain we passed through, is littered with abandoned “projects”. All stopped when the Euro crisis started and the cash dried up. Motorways or dual carriageways which just end, in a mass of abandoned road works,  half built viaducts, the supporting legs sticking up like teeth, but, only half of the “deck” for the road in place, office and house building projects abandoned and overgrown with weeds.

Just outside the campsite entrance, is this little gem.

Major work has been started on the main road into town, but, now all work has stopped.

I think they are going to have to do something about this zebra crossing, I doubt it complies with EU disability access legislation!

Just along the coast, about five miles cycle, mostly along a very nice promenade, but, predictably, not all finished! We find a place called Vilamoura.

There are certainly no signs of shortage of cash here. A very smart marina, packed with equally smart boats, restaurants and bars all around.

I suspect we will be back here on Saturday, for a meal.

Visit a Vodaphone shop, with the intention of buying a PAYG SIM card to use in an unlocked 3G Dongle to access the internet, but, in order to top it up, you have to have a Portuguese bank account, bizarre. The local carrier TMN, is more accommodating and at least does a top up on the spot in the shop, plus have a top up via telephone. We will give it a shot and see how it works, 20Euro, as an experiment.

Well, it works fine, not sure if I understand the limits correctly, since, predictably, all the information is in Portugese, I think it is 1 hour per day, unlimited downloads, for 10 days, expiry in 90 days, costs 10Euro.

Monday 8th April 2013 - Tuesday 9th April 2013

From last night, I can report, the Portuguese Red from Alenetajo region is very drinkable. It is rather strong at 14%. I only had a half a bottle, and felt just slightly intoxicated, normally, I can manage a bottle no problem.

Either the Red Wine is getting stronger, or, I am getting older.

Parque da Gale (contd) see www.parquedagale.com

This place has more going for it than we thought, shopping and eating places within walking distance,and places to cycle or walk, so, we decide to stay here at Parque Da Gale, for another day at least.

The other people here seem a friendly lot, three other Brit vans, one from Isle of Man, two French. The chap from the Isle of Man is ex-merchant navy, and is familiar with North Shields, South Shields, Sunderland etc, small world syndrome again.

It is a morning of chores, washing clothes etc.

Just before lunch, we set off on our bikes to explore.

We are (we think), about 7km West of Albufeira, 3km East of Armacao de Pera, and about 2km from the beach, which is a long sweeping area of clean sand, and virtually empty.

There is the inevitable Golf Complex, and bordering the beach is a nature reserve, with raised wooden walk-ways across to the beach and along
the coast. Unfortunately, you are not allowed to cycle along here, so, we have to walk.

The vegetation is, I think, some form of herb, you can smell the scent on the breeze, and I do recognise it, but, I cannot think what it is.

Old age!

This is more like what we enjoy doing, pleasant 8 mile cycle ride, not too strenuous, not a single word of complaint from the boss, so, I treat her to a beer.

I am just too generous.

In the evening, Kathleen treats me to a couple of Croft Brandies (and a couple of G&T's for herself of course), in the bar along the road from the Aire.

Tuesday 9th April 2013.

Kathleen does her bank account checking, online, she finds she has £50 less than she thought.

That will spoil her week!

No more "treats" for Ken, I fear.

Having cycled West, yesterday, today we decide to cycle east to Albefuira.

Kathleen obtains details of the route from another couple of Brits, who did the route yesterday.

The four mile route is easy going, and for all except about half a mile, is along a quiet small road, or, on designated Cycle Track.

Albefuira Marina area is initially attractive, but, the actual buildings are a bit shabby 1960's style.

We soon find a pleasant bar, overlooking the beach, and obtain refreshments of beer and cheese with toast.

This is clearly a "resort", the beer is double the price of the bar near the Aire where we are staying.

The beach is very pleasant, although, mostly empty!

The "old town" is quaint, but, overall, I would say, this is a resort which has seen better days and is now a little faded.

As we wander around, it begins to rain.

Now, I should explain, this should not be a problem. I am (usually) prepared for such eventualities.

I do this by the simple expedient of keeping my lightweight, waterproof cycle jacket in my backpack, and always ensuring I take my back pack with me.

At this point, Kathleen informs me, she had decided to "tidy up" my back pack and has removed my cycle jacket. Kathleen of course, has her cycle jacket with her, or rather, it is on my luggage rack, so I can can carry the extra weight.

Cycling back to the van, four miles, in the rain, in shorts and (short) shirt sleeves is not too pleasant!

At least Kathleen will not need to wash my shirt, it is thoroughly soaked.

As usually happens, no sooner are we back to the van than the rain stops, the sun reappears and it sunbathing weather again.

A quick note to Maria, just noticed your comment. Yes, we are getting the comments. Kathleen enjoyed Fatima very much. Hope it warms up for you back in the UK soon!

Saturday 6th April 2013 - Sunday 7th April 2013

Saturday Continued,

A walk into town, to indulge in one of my favourite pastimes, ie, eating and drinking.

Kathleen always likes me to think she endures the eating and drinking just to please me, but, it looks to me as if she enjoys the drinking, just as much as I do!

You will notice, the bottle of wine is almost empty, and that is BEFORE we have eaten our meal.

A very nice lunch, a Kebab for her ladyship, and Swordfish for me, followed by a very large Banana Split, 40Euro, and that was including the most expensive bottle of wine on the list (15Euro).

A wander around town to walk off the food and drink.

This, is the "old town", so much more attractive than the concrete and glass, "New Town", in my humble opinion.

Even if this particular property, the outside of which, is completely tiled with ceramic tiles, is a bit "green"!

In the evening, Kathleen does her duty by going to church, followed by drinks on her.

While Kathleen gets stuck into very large measures of Cointreau, I sample the "Croft Brandy" (equally large measures). I always associated "Croft" with Sherry, not sure if it is the same "Croft" or not, but, after a couple of their brandies, who cares?


Sunday 7th April 2013. We need some "facilities", (clothes) washing is building up, and we are running out of battery power on the "leisure" battery. It is decided we will go to a site for a few days, Quarteria is chosen.

When we get to Quarteria, we find there is a cycle race going on, they have closed off several roads as you enter the town.

There are no signs to advise which way you go, just a barrier across the road, and a policeman waving at you to turn off the road. Eventually, one "helpful" policeman gives us directions, but after half an hour of negotiating tiny roads, we end up, back at the first road block!

Sod Quarteria, or words to that effect are exchanged.

We head for an Aire we have been told about at Albefuria (Parque de Gale N37.09284 E-8.31148).

It is more of a Motorhome campsite than an Aire really, 6Euro per night, gets you, hard standing, usual water/waste services, Electricity, wifi.

All very clean and tidy, pretty good in fact.

On our way to Albefuria we pass a young Gypsy, stopped by the side of the road in her horse drawn wagon, feeding her baby, then about half a mile further on, we encounter the main group, trotting along the main road, causing traffic chaos.

There is no truth in the rumour they are enroute to the UK to sign on for their benefits.

Monday 1st April 2013 - Saturday 6th April 2013

Monday 1^st April 2013 – Friday 5^th April 2013

It looks as if it just might be a nice day in prospect, as we pack to leave. We are not taking any chances, we intend to make our way to the Algarve to see if we can pick up some sunshine.

An easy drive, just a little rain, and we arrive at:

Lagos, Orbitur Valverde (N37 5’59” W8 43’4”)

Another Orbitur site, to use our newly acquired Orbitur Discount Card.

 All looks fine, more people here than we have encountered anywhere else so far, and IT IS NOT RAINING, we even get to sit in the sun for a while in the afternoon.

The evening is spent in finishing off my second last bottle of Rioja, and very nice it is too. In between times, I burden Kathleen with an explanation of GPS, Satnav and how the funny number labelled degrees, minutes and seconds can pinpoint your location. She is not impressed.

Tuesday 2^nd April 2013

It is still dry!

I unload our bicycles from the bike carrier for the first time since we left home.

We cycle down (yes, downhill too the village, which means uphill on the return of course) to the village of Luz, about 2Km away.

I am not totally sure, but, I think this may be the Praia de Luz of the missing child Madelaine McCann.

Kathleen finds the combination for her purse and buys us not one, but two beers at a beachfront bar. Beer is cheap here in Portugal, compared to France and Spain, 2.60Euro for two bottles of 5.5% Pils type Lager (in a bar).

Buy some Portuguese red wine, which I am assured is good “Herdade dos Muachos”, from the Alentejano region. Watch this space, it was more expensive than we usually pay, at 2.99Euro.  

In the afternoon, back at the site, we chat to our neighbour, who turns out to be a Brit.

Some people do amazing things. He and his wife have sold up in the UK and are living in Portugal, in a caravan, which they towed here from the UK. I am not sure if they have been on this site for the whole six years, but, they are not going anywhere from here soon, since they have sold the 4x4 which towed the caravan here and now have a Portuguese registered Honda Civic, plus an impressive Honda motorcycle.

They have so far returned to the UK once on the motorcycle, that is some ride!

The sun being out, Kathleen spends the rest of day lying in it, then expresses surprise, no, amazement that she is sunburned.

I see from my Emails, we have passed Josie and Mack, who are going in the opposite direction. If you are reading this Josie, sorry I have not replied to your Emails, I am receiving Emails OK, but, having difficulty sending them. I have had this problem before, but got around it by using “3”’s Email server. That is not working now, perhaps because I am no longer with “3”. Have tried various other tricks, which have worked in the past, eg changing Port numbers etc, but, to no avail.

Same apology goes to my brother, Brian, if you are reading this, I have received your Email about French SIM card, but, as explained above, having difficulty replying.

Wednesday 3^rd April 2013. It rains much of the night, but, it is fine in the morning. We decide to go to Lagos for the day. It is about 5km away, according to my free iPhone Portugal Satnav app. The plan is to walk there and bus back. Sure enough, my trusty iPhone guides us there without a problem. The “old” (ie original) part of Lagos is very pleasant, lots of narrow and quaint streets with a good selection of bars and cafes. There is even a Slave Market (now a museum of course), so, I am unable to buy a replacement (for Kathleen).

There appears to be a lot of Brits here, we seem to be surrounded by people speaking English. I had not realised Portugal was such a popular destination for Brits.

No problem finding the bus station, to come back.

Someone had told us, bus fares in Portugal are expensive, at 1.30Euro each for a 4km ride, it is true if compared to France or Spain, but not compared to what we would have to pay in the UK (if it wasn’t for our nice pensioners bus passes).

Thursday 4^th April 2013. The weather forecast says today is to be pretty much like yesterday, it was exactly right. Overnight rain, a couple of heavy showers during the day, but, otherwise warm and sunny.

Walking through the countryside on the way to Lagos, there are several Golf Course developments, with associated housing etc

It is one hours walk to Lagos, and that is where the nearest Catholic Church is.

Even for someone of Kathleen’s commitment, that is a bit far to walk!

We have been told there is an Aire in Lagos, “ten minutes walk from the town centre”, and we know there are two churches near the town. The Aire is not in our edition of the “Aires in Spain and Portugal”, so whilst we are in Lagos today, we check out the whereabouts of the Aire.

Friday 5^th April 2013. We move to the Aire at Lagos (N37 06’ 01”, W8 43’ 07”), with the intention of staying here so Kathleen can do the Church duty.

The Aire is fairly easy to find, even easier once you know where it is of course!, Just off the EN125 as you enter Lagos from the East. It is alongside the Football Stadium and opposite the Police Station.

It is all very tidy and organised, at 3Euro per night. A service point, free Wifi, toilets and showers (2Euro) in the Sports Complex (ie Football Stadium), plus there are a choice of Supermarkets (Pingo Doce, Lidl, Aldi and Continente) within walking distance.

Saturday 6th April 2013.

We are woken by a noise at 07:00. No, for a change, it is not the rain. We discover there is a market on Saturdays, on the field next to the Aire. The stall holders have arrived en-masse and are busy erecting their stalls.

How we did not hear the fifty or so assorted "white vans" arrive I do not know.

The man arrives for his 3Euro, exactly as it says he will on the notice board.

The young French girl in the van which arrived next to us latish last night, argues the point, and storms across to the notice (I her payjamas), it is quite a chilly morning, quite a pleasant sight.

After breakfast, the market is in full swing, so we have a wonder. Typical market lots of tat, not expensive, but tat never the less.

Why do people do it?

I have to admit, the idea of markets is beyond me.

How can people in China make assorted clothes, which are then shipped half way around the world and sold for less than 1Euro?

Since hardly anyone is actually buying anything, why do the stall holders bother to get out of bed so early, assemble their stall, unpack their gear etc etc?

The only stall which appears to be doing a roaring trade is a young lady selling sort of do-nut things, she actually has a queue.

Wednesday 27th March 2013 - Sunday 31st March 2013

Wednesday 27^th March 2013

 We wake up to torrential rain!

 This is beginning to be, beyond a joke!

A quick photograph of the Santiago de Compestella campsite in the never ending rain, and, off we go, heading for Portugal, and, hopefully, better weather!

There is initial disagreement between Kathleen and the Tomtom (nothing unusual in that). Kathleen was expecting the Tomtom to take us on the N550 south, Which I agree looks the obvious option.

Instead, it took us on a “smaller” road (AC841 according to our road atlas), it was a good road, but, Kathleen was beginning to be concerned that she had entered the wrong details. We stopped to to check, but, all was OK. I had just made the re-assuring noises about the road being fine, when the instruction came, turn right ahead.

I had spoken too soon.

This was onto a really minor road (PO-VP something or other). What a shocker, it had been heavily potholed, but, the pot holes had been filled to be about an inch higher than needed. The result, we are given a given a good shaking for about ten miles, before we join the (decent) N640, then N550, on past Pontevedra, with some bits of free motorway (A-52) where it was finished before they ran out of cash.

Estela, Rio Alto (N41 27’ 46”, W8 46’ 22”) A large site, right by the sea, but, it would appear there are only three lots of people here, an Austrian van and another British van, plus ourselves of course. A fourth van arrives in the evening (Spanish).

The site is good, but, so far, the weather has not improved a lot. Just showers now, instead of a steady downpour.

Not cold however.

Our English neighbour is very informative, and puts us onto a new deal from Orbitur (Portuguese campsite chain), just before our friends Josie and Mack tell us of the same deal. By joining the Orbitur Club, you can prepay for ten sites and get them for 9Euro per night, including electricity. It costs 10Euro to join, so your first ten sites cost 10 Euro per night, there after 9Euro.

Kathleen loves that, she just loves a bargain.

The rain has eased to just the occasional heavy shower!

Decent facilities here, including enough amps to run the hair dryer, so, Kathleen amuses herself with the hair washing ritual.

Friday 29^th March 2013

It has rained all night, and, when I say rained, I mean really rained, pissed down is I believe the appropriate expression!

It is still pissing down as I walk to Reception to ask them to disconnect the electricity.

The plan today is to go to Fatima, this being an appropriate religious spot for the Easter weekend. I do have doubts about turning up there on Good Friday, I would expect it to be full, but, we do have a fall back plan (Lorvao N40 15.539’ W8 18.918) about 50 miles from Fatima, according to the Satnav. Both options from the Spain and Portugal Aires Book.

A hundred and odd miles of pouring rain, and occasional fog, not one of our most scenic drives.

In many places, the fields are flooded, and as shown in the photograph, many rivers have burst their banks, flooding the surrounding fields.

This river is just a few inches below the road bridge as we cross, just inches short of flooding the road..

There is a major new road under construction as we approach Fatima, it is not finished, and even the bits which are finished are not on our Satnav, so we end up being taken on a circuitous, very steep (often first gear) and twisting route. There is water running down the road like a small stream. Gives Kathleen a chance to get in the praying mood.

Fatima (N39 38.003’ W8 40.217’) There are lots of Campervans here, mostly Portugeuse. Well, I suppose that is reasonable, it is their country.

All of the “top notch” bays (nice size and each with it’s own little picnic table, (on the left of the photograph) are occupied, but, there are plenty of spaces in “second class”.

So, my fears of not being able to get a spot, are unfounded.

No electricity, but, as the book says, there are toilets and they are very well kept.

Kathleen takes herself off to church on Good Friday evening and almost gets herself lost finding her way back to the van. Not surprising really, the "shrine" area is enormous.

Saturday 30^th March 2013. It is dry and sunny, we cannot believe it.

We stroll around the Basillica area, as I said before, it is enormous.
Just look at those white fuffy clouds and that blue sky. Aren't they amazing?

OK, so you hink I am going over the top?, we have not seen blue sky for days and days.....

We meet what appear to be the only other English couple here (well, they are Welsh, but, they seem pleasant enough despite that).

I am pleasantly surprised, it is all very well done, and virtually no tacky souvenir and statue sellers, indeed virtually no commercialism at all, and what there is, is not overpriced.

The happenings at Fatima are fairly recent (1917), so, the buildings are all recent, some of them very modern indeed.

Kathleen has plans to attend the Easter Vigil, Saturday evening at 22:00, but is concerned at finding her way back by herself in the dark. I foolishly offer to attend with her.

 For now, the sunshine is too good to waste, we wander into town, find a bar, and sit in the sun drinking beer, now this feels more like a holiday.

Then, to lunch.

We are presented with bread, olives and two kinds of cheese to “nibble” while we choose from the menu etc. Odd to be given cheese at the start, for us, it is usually regarded as an “afters”.

Kathleen, the usually cautious eater, amazes me, by tucking into the unknown cheese, without even being sure from which animal it came, and, without waiting for me to try it first.

The meal and bottle of very pleasant red wine are excellent value for 27Euro.

Sure enough, we attend the Easter Vigil.

It is impressively well organised, but, it goes on for well over two and a half hours! It is actually still going on at 12:30 when we leave!

When we come out, it is raining again!

My presence does not prevent us getting lost in the dark and rain. This of course is deemed to be my fault. I do point out, that, by convention, the person thought to be in the lead is at the front.

Sunday 31^st March 2013. It has rained all night, and is still raining as we leave, indeed it pours with rain for every one of the 160 miles to the next campsite. Villa Nova de Milfontes, Sitiva (N37 46’48” W8 47’1”). Another site from the ACSI book (belonging to the Orbitur group, so, we can use our 9Euro vouchers).

The site is fine, a bit big for our taste, but it appears well kept.

The pouring rain continues. We are parked next to a Scots couple, who arrived from Lagos yesterday, they tell us, they have had 7 days of rain there, and are heading North to attempt to escape it.

They are not really cheered by our news, that we are heading South for the same reason! Indeed, neither party have any cheer from the exchange of information!

Sunday 24th March 2013 - Tuesday 26th March 2013

Time to move toward Portugal, via Santiago de Compestela.

For those interested in distances, we have, so far, come just over 1000 miles since leaving home.

We (well, I), decide to take the toll motorway, because it takes us around Donastasia - San Sebastion, the first big town in Spain. I have unpleasant memories of being hopelessly lost in that place on a previous trip along that way. We ended up in a the bus station if memeory serves me correctly.

So 14Euro to take us along the spectacular toll road all the way to Bilbao seems like a bargain to me.

We make our first stop in Spain at Ribadedeva, Camping Colombres (N43 22' 31" W33 33' 51"), from the trusty ACSI book (16 Euro). There is free wifi, which I am able to connect to from my phone, while waiting for Kathleen to "check-in" in reception.

According to the book, it is a wifi point, but, I am able to get a signal at our pitch, and since it is an unsecured signal, I can hook up the phones, the iPad and the PC all at once. Yes, I know, I can only use one thing at a time, but it is interesting isn't it?, I just love the technology!

The write up says, from the site, you have views of the lofty snow covered peaks of the Picos de Europas, well, you might have, on a clear day.

But today is a "Lake District" day, the clouds are low and obscuring the mountains.

But, not to complain, we have had several days of sunshine, and as we understand it, the weather back in the UK is appalling.

It is clearly "out of season" in this area, there are only ourselves, plus two caravans, one of which does not seem to be occupied.

As we arrive, the hardy Dutch occupants of the other caravan are sitting "sun bathing", that does not last long, since it begins to rain.

But, Kathleen, optimistic as ever tells me it is "brightening up over there", and sure enough, by 4 o'clock, the rain has stopped and the sun is peeping through the clouds.

The site although almost empty, is beautifully kept.

Monday 25^th March 2013

We are all packed and ready to leave, but, it has rained so much during the night, the van will not move!

The rear wheels have sunk into the soft ground and the front wheels are simply spinning, when we attempt to move forward or back.

I first try putting the clip together rubber pads we use as a doormat, under the front wheels, but, it makes no difference. A trip to reception to explain the problem and the owner comes along with his four wheel drive Suzuki and tows us off the pitch.

What a start to the day!, we do not know it yet, but this is not the end!

It is still raining as we leave, and it continues to rain all day as we drive west.

This is the third time we have ventured into this part of Spain, and each time it has been wet and cold, perhaps we need to learn a lesson!

We arrive at our next planned stop, (Barreires, Gaivota Camping, N43 33’44” W7 12’28”, from the ACSI book) still in the rain. The site looks good, well as good as anything can look in pouring rain. The bad news is, all of the pitches are grass, and are absolutely saturated. We are unable even to drive onto the pitch, without the wheels spinning and sinking in. Cautious after this morning’s experience, we decide to move on.

There is another site along the road a short way, but, it is closed.

Kathleen is all for just parking on the sea front, and staying there. There are several empty rain swept car parks to choose from!

Instead we opt to head for an “official” aire. Burela, N43 39.171’ W7 21.498’, from the Spain and Portugal Aires book.

The aires book describes the Aire as being “at the Hospital”, and “some parking has distant sea views”.

That is a fair description I suppose, the aire is right in the town, in front of the Hospital, and behind a small holding with chickens, and a horse.

When we arrive there are two Spanish vans already there.

We actually get a pitch with a sea view, if you disregard the abandoned partly built building in our line of sight!

The best view is probably on the other side of the road, looking over the rather nicely kept hospital grounds.

On the positive side, we are parked on tarmac, so no being bogged down, there is free fresh water, a bin to put your rubbish in, and waste emptying points, and it is quiet!

Tuesday 26^th March 2013

Unbelievable, but, it still raining!

Today, we are going to Santiago de Compestella.

This is my idea, it is one of those places I have always wanted to go to. I do not know why, it has Religious connections, being a pilgrimage destination, but, I am not religious.

The story of it’s becoming a Pilgrimage site, is, I think rather instructive. The story goes, that around the time when the Moors were sweeping north and taking over much of Spain, a shepherd discovered some (human) remains, which, for some reason, he thought may be the remains of the Apostle St James. At that time, Santiago de Compestela was not a particularly significant place. The local Bishop was however mindful of the need to defend his lands from the invading Moors. So, he duly confirmed the shepherd’s find as indeed being the remains of St James. Presumably, he did this on the basis of the then state of the art DNA testing (ie Do Not Argue, with me, otherwise you will be declared a heretic and burned at the stake). The site was duly declared a Shrine. Rich “nobles” (hoping to have their slate cleared, with an absolution or two) came forward to donate cash to build a cathedral and all the necessary trappings. Of course, having declared the site a Christian Shrine, it now had  to be defended from the Muslim invaders, so, again various nobles and crusaders, duly obliged. The Bishop was pleased. In addition, thousands of Medieval Pilgrims trudged hundreds of miles to visit the site and spend some cash there. In short, it is a sort of medieval “weapons of mass destruction” story.

Yes, I am a cynic, I admit it freely.

Back to the present.

When looking it up on the internet, someone had posted information on an Aire “right beside the Cathedral” and given the Satnav coordinates for it (N 42.89555   W -8.53163, but, as you will see, do not use them).

The coordinates turned out to be a large car park, clearly signed, “No Campervans or Caravans”, in Spanish, English and German, plus, it was nowhere near the Cathedral.

We made the mistake of continuing on toward the Cathedral in the hope of finding a place to park the campervan. Big mistake, all of the parking facilities appear to be underground with 2 metre height restrictions.

There is no Aire in the Aires Book for Santiago, nor is there a Campsite in the ASCI book, but, I did recall there was a campsite, near the centre in the Caravan Club Europe Sites book.

Kathleen searched through the book, as I tried to work my way through the traffic.

There were no Satnav coordinates given, and the instructions to find the place assumed you were approaching from a particular road, not that you were snarled up in the city centre traffic.

All of the time, it was pouring with rain.

Things were getting a bit, how can I say, electric, heated, you know.....

Eventually, I find an unoccupied bus stop, pull into it. Only one thing for it. iPhone and Google. Turn on data roaming (hang the expense) a quick google search and we have the coordinates. Google really does have the answer to absolutely everything.

We find the site, it is a big disappointment. The Caravan Club book describes it in glowing terms, but, I do not know when they visited, it is not like that now. Grumpy staff, substandard facilities, and 26Euro per night. But, looking on the bright side, we are here, it is only 15 minutes walk to town (or 1Euro on the bus), there is a shopping mall right next to the site, with Carrefour, Primark, C&A etc etc, that really cheered Kathleen up.

The rain continues, we decide to go and see the sights regardless. I am not sure how I am going to actually type this bit, but... yes, I will have to do it... I actually suggested we call at the next door shopping mall and buy a decent umbrella.

We catch the bus into town.

The cathedral is very impressive, the interior is suitably grand with lots of gold leaf and statues.

The exterior is, if anything even more imposing, but, it has a certain neglected air however, especially from the front.

After visiting the cathedral, we wander the narrow streets of the old town. We chance upon a very attractive garden within the university.

A guide is giving a talk, in English, to a group of tourists (not Americans, they were too quiet, I assume English was just the common language).....

The story goes that Francis Drake “the English Pirate” (English hero you mean, remember the Amada?), was plundering the coast nearby. Rumour had it, that he intended to make a raid inland to Santiago de Compestella and steal the remains of St James.

The Bishop, being concerned at this, moved the remains and hid them. But, The Bishop was an old man, and died before he told anyone where he had hidden the remains.

The loss of the holy relics, meant the supply of pilgrims dried up, and for 300 years, no pilgrims came to Santiago de Compestella. Fortunately, the University of Santiago de Compestella managed to relocate the remains at some point, and have them restored to their rightful place, thus opening the supply of pilgrims (and cash) once more.

Not sure why, but, I rather enjoyed that story, made me proud to be English.

A wander in the park, with some more distant (but perhaps more impressive) views of the Cathedral, then catch the bus back to the campsite.