Sunday 24th March 2013 - Tuesday 26th March 2013

Time to move toward Portugal, via Santiago de Compestela.

For those interested in distances, we have, so far, come just over 1000 miles since leaving home.

We (well, I), decide to take the toll motorway, because it takes us around Donastasia - San Sebastion, the first big town in Spain. I have unpleasant memories of being hopelessly lost in that place on a previous trip along that way. We ended up in a the bus station if memeory serves me correctly.

So 14Euro to take us along the spectacular toll road all the way to Bilbao seems like a bargain to me.

We make our first stop in Spain at Ribadedeva, Camping Colombres (N43 22' 31" W33 33' 51"), from the trusty ACSI book (16 Euro). There is free wifi, which I am able to connect to from my phone, while waiting for Kathleen to "check-in" in reception.

According to the book, it is a wifi point, but, I am able to get a signal at our pitch, and since it is an unsecured signal, I can hook up the phones, the iPad and the PC all at once. Yes, I know, I can only use one thing at a time, but it is interesting isn't it?, I just love the technology!

The write up says, from the site, you have views of the lofty snow covered peaks of the Picos de Europas, well, you might have, on a clear day.

But today is a "Lake District" day, the clouds are low and obscuring the mountains.

But, not to complain, we have had several days of sunshine, and as we understand it, the weather back in the UK is appalling.

It is clearly "out of season" in this area, there are only ourselves, plus two caravans, one of which does not seem to be occupied.

As we arrive, the hardy Dutch occupants of the other caravan are sitting "sun bathing", that does not last long, since it begins to rain.

But, Kathleen, optimistic as ever tells me it is "brightening up over there", and sure enough, by 4 o'clock, the rain has stopped and the sun is peeping through the clouds.

The site although almost empty, is beautifully kept.

Monday 25^th March 2013

We are all packed and ready to leave, but, it has rained so much during the night, the van will not move!

The rear wheels have sunk into the soft ground and the front wheels are simply spinning, when we attempt to move forward or back.

I first try putting the clip together rubber pads we use as a doormat, under the front wheels, but, it makes no difference. A trip to reception to explain the problem and the owner comes along with his four wheel drive Suzuki and tows us off the pitch.

What a start to the day!, we do not know it yet, but this is not the end!

It is still raining as we leave, and it continues to rain all day as we drive west.

This is the third time we have ventured into this part of Spain, and each time it has been wet and cold, perhaps we need to learn a lesson!

We arrive at our next planned stop, (Barreires, Gaivota Camping, N43 33’44” W7 12’28”, from the ACSI book) still in the rain. The site looks good, well as good as anything can look in pouring rain. The bad news is, all of the pitches are grass, and are absolutely saturated. We are unable even to drive onto the pitch, without the wheels spinning and sinking in. Cautious after this morning’s experience, we decide to move on.

There is another site along the road a short way, but, it is closed.

Kathleen is all for just parking on the sea front, and staying there. There are several empty rain swept car parks to choose from!

Instead we opt to head for an “official” aire. Burela, N43 39.171’ W7 21.498’, from the Spain and Portugal Aires book.

The aires book describes the Aire as being “at the Hospital”, and “some parking has distant sea views”.

That is a fair description I suppose, the aire is right in the town, in front of the Hospital, and behind a small holding with chickens, and a horse.

When we arrive there are two Spanish vans already there.

We actually get a pitch with a sea view, if you disregard the abandoned partly built building in our line of sight!

The best view is probably on the other side of the road, looking over the rather nicely kept hospital grounds.

On the positive side, we are parked on tarmac, so no being bogged down, there is free fresh water, a bin to put your rubbish in, and waste emptying points, and it is quiet!

Tuesday 26^th March 2013

Unbelievable, but, it still raining!

Today, we are going to Santiago de Compestella.

This is my idea, it is one of those places I have always wanted to go to. I do not know why, it has Religious connections, being a pilgrimage destination, but, I am not religious.

The story of it’s becoming a Pilgrimage site, is, I think rather instructive. The story goes, that around the time when the Moors were sweeping north and taking over much of Spain, a shepherd discovered some (human) remains, which, for some reason, he thought may be the remains of the Apostle St James. At that time, Santiago de Compestela was not a particularly significant place. The local Bishop was however mindful of the need to defend his lands from the invading Moors. So, he duly confirmed the shepherd’s find as indeed being the remains of St James. Presumably, he did this on the basis of the then state of the art DNA testing (ie Do Not Argue, with me, otherwise you will be declared a heretic and burned at the stake). The site was duly declared a Shrine. Rich “nobles” (hoping to have their slate cleared, with an absolution or two) came forward to donate cash to build a cathedral and all the necessary trappings. Of course, having declared the site a Christian Shrine, it now had  to be defended from the Muslim invaders, so, again various nobles and crusaders, duly obliged. The Bishop was pleased. In addition, thousands of Medieval Pilgrims trudged hundreds of miles to visit the site and spend some cash there. In short, it is a sort of medieval “weapons of mass destruction” story.

Yes, I am a cynic, I admit it freely.

Back to the present.

When looking it up on the internet, someone had posted information on an Aire “right beside the Cathedral” and given the Satnav coordinates for it (N 42.89555   W -8.53163, but, as you will see, do not use them).

The coordinates turned out to be a large car park, clearly signed, “No Campervans or Caravans”, in Spanish, English and German, plus, it was nowhere near the Cathedral.

We made the mistake of continuing on toward the Cathedral in the hope of finding a place to park the campervan. Big mistake, all of the parking facilities appear to be underground with 2 metre height restrictions.

There is no Aire in the Aires Book for Santiago, nor is there a Campsite in the ASCI book, but, I did recall there was a campsite, near the centre in the Caravan Club Europe Sites book.

Kathleen searched through the book, as I tried to work my way through the traffic.

There were no Satnav coordinates given, and the instructions to find the place assumed you were approaching from a particular road, not that you were snarled up in the city centre traffic.

All of the time, it was pouring with rain.

Things were getting a bit, how can I say, electric, heated, you know.....

Eventually, I find an unoccupied bus stop, pull into it. Only one thing for it. iPhone and Google. Turn on data roaming (hang the expense) a quick google search and we have the coordinates. Google really does have the answer to absolutely everything.

We find the site, it is a big disappointment. The Caravan Club book describes it in glowing terms, but, I do not know when they visited, it is not like that now. Grumpy staff, substandard facilities, and 26Euro per night. But, looking on the bright side, we are here, it is only 15 minutes walk to town (or 1Euro on the bus), there is a shopping mall right next to the site, with Carrefour, Primark, C&A etc etc, that really cheered Kathleen up.

The rain continues, we decide to go and see the sights regardless. I am not sure how I am going to actually type this bit, but... yes, I will have to do it... I actually suggested we call at the next door shopping mall and buy a decent umbrella.

We catch the bus into town.

The cathedral is very impressive, the interior is suitably grand with lots of gold leaf and statues.

The exterior is, if anything even more imposing, but, it has a certain neglected air however, especially from the front.

After visiting the cathedral, we wander the narrow streets of the old town. We chance upon a very attractive garden within the university.

A guide is giving a talk, in English, to a group of tourists (not Americans, they were too quiet, I assume English was just the common language).....

The story goes that Francis Drake “the English Pirate” (English hero you mean, remember the Amada?), was plundering the coast nearby. Rumour had it, that he intended to make a raid inland to Santiago de Compestella and steal the remains of St James.

The Bishop, being concerned at this, moved the remains and hid them. But, The Bishop was an old man, and died before he told anyone where he had hidden the remains.

The loss of the holy relics, meant the supply of pilgrims dried up, and for 300 years, no pilgrims came to Santiago de Compestella. Fortunately, the University of Santiago de Compestella managed to relocate the remains at some point, and have them restored to their rightful place, thus opening the supply of pilgrims (and cash) once more.

Not sure why, but, I rather enjoyed that story, made me proud to be English.

A wander in the park, with some more distant (but perhaps more impressive) views of the Cathedral, then catch the bus back to the campsite.

St Jean-de-Luz, La Ferme Erromardie (Contd)

Thursday 21st March 2013

A warm and sunny day, great.

Walk into town, spend most of the day productively, sitting in a pavement bar in the main square, watching the world go by and drinking chilled Rose Wine. The rest of the day we wasted buying vegetables and fruit to eat in the evening.

We discover there is another part to the site, and find another English couple there, they are heading South into Spain (Valencia). Then, two more English vans arrive in the evening, and park next to us. One is heading home, the other heading south.

Friday 22nd March 2013

Fine for most of the day, but, by evening a thunderstorm rolls over with quite heavy rain.

Mundane tasks still have to be done, so, this morning is spent washing clothes and hanging them out to dry.

We also need to do a bit of shopping for essentials, ie wine. We are told by one of the English chaps we have met, there is a Carrefour supermarket, about a mile away.

After lunch we set off to find it, 1.6 miles there, according to my phone, so clearly we did not follow the shortest route. Did spot this amusing variation on "Beware of the Dog" sign.

On our return route, we encounter a Gypsy camp, all very neat and tidy, unlike those usually encountered in the UK, with a group of children who are able to beg for money, cigarettes, and sweets in three languages, very impressive. Only 1.3 mile back.

Saturday 23rd March 2013

The other two English vans next to us depart, one heading home, the other heading to Portugal, so we may encounter them again. The chap heading home is a lover of (cheap) red wine, like myself, he leaves me with a few recommendations from Lidl Portugal, chiefly one called Baron von Cega.

After a doubtful start, the day is warm and sunny, so a day of lazing in the sun. The plan in the evening is to walk into town, eat, then Kathleen is going to church.

The plan does not work, we find there is no where serving food at 5 o'clock in the afternoon. So, we have to settle for enormous sandwiches from a take away sandwich shop, which we eat sitting in the town square. This followed by beers in a pavement cafe in the town square.

There is some kind of event going on, people dressed up in black costumes and wearing red neckerchiefs are singing and playing guitars in a bandstand in the middle of the square. Not sure if it is someting to do with Easter perhaps?

After church we walk back along the cliff top in the dark, lucky we took torches!

Tuesday 19th March 2013 - Wednesday 20th March 2013

Leave La Ville-aux-Dames, Les Acacias, just south east of Tours. Heading towards Bordeaux.

Weather is still poor.

For those who may be travelling to Europe this year, diesel prices have increased a little, but, still cheaper than the UK, needless to say.

At Supermarket garages, it is typically 1.35Euro / Litre (£1.12), on the motorway 1.44Euro (£1.19). It has increased about 10cents (8p) since last year, according to my memory.

For most of the way, we follow the N10. There has been some major money spent on this road since we last came this way, about four years ago now. It is almost all high quality dual carriageway.

We stop for the night at a place called Cadillac, east and slightly south of Bordeaux. I am not sure if there is any connection between the name of this place and the Cadillac car in America?

Cadillac Aire (N44 38.319" W000 19.011"). It is free to stay. Electricity is 2Euro for 3 hours at  5 Amps.

The aire is very near the town centre, so, be carefull when entering the satnav coordinates, our operator got it slightly wrong, and we disrupted traffic in the narrow streets of the town centre as we blundered around.

When we found the correct place on the second attempt, there was not room to park. The Aire is meant to have space for 8 vans, but, when we arrived there were five well spaced out vans occupying all of the space. As we pondered what to do, a kind hearted English couple offered to move over slightly, to make room for us to get in. In the mean time a Frenchman in overalls (who we assumed was in one of the other vans), appeared and began berating the remaining occupants about the space they were taking up. So, we caused disruption at the aire, as well as in the town! We subsequently found the Frenchman in the overalls was not in fact staying on the Aire, he was simply digging his garden nearby.

Cadillac is a "Bastide" (walled town), dating back to the 1300's, when the English held sway in this part of France (Aquitaine). A lot of the town walls and some fortified gates are still intact (amazingly), so, it is worth a walk around. Surprisingly, for such a potential tourist spot, there does not appear to be a single pleasant bar or cafe to visit.

Fingers crossed, the weather is fine and warm!

Wednesday 20th March 2013

Although it has rained over night (again!), we wake to a pleasant and dry morning, to have our breakfast.

We make our way back towards the N10, but, not before we lose another door mirror to a white van man on the narrow bridge leaving Cadillac. Why can't these people just slow down?

Fortunately, although the casing is broken, the mirror is still intact, and even the repeating indicator, although minus its cover now, is still working. I think this is will be the third new mirror we have had, in six years! and they are not cheap.

We arrive at St Jean-de-Luz, just south of Biarritz at about 13:00.

St Jean-de-Luz, La Ferme Erromardie (N43 24'20" W001 38'30"), a site from the ASCI book, 14Euro, including WiFi.

Facilities are needed, it is hair washing day (most critical day of the week!).

That means a couple of hours with a 2Kw hair dryer, followed by half an hour with the hair straighteners (and that is not for me!).

So a site with all facilities is called for.

The weather has improved, we even manage to get out for a walk.

There is a foot path along the cliff top along the coast to the town, and of course, in the town there are cafes and bars, for a beer or two and the odd glass of wine.

This may well be a good choice for a couple of days relaxing, hopefully, the weather will stay kind.

With the internet, I am able to update the blog, and check the budget back in the UK, to see if that nice Mr Osborne has taken any money off me. It would appear, for once, he has not, apart from the inevitable increase in the duty on Wine and Spirits. Just have to take enough back so we do not have to buy it in the UK!

  

Spring 2013, Destination Portugal

Sunday 17th March 2013

We leave home in moderately good weather, but, it only lasts as far south as Yorkshire.

Soon it is raining.

We stop off at Huntingdon for Sunday lunch, at a place called the "Old Bridge Inn". I had found it on the internet, and new it was going to be pricey. But, what the hell I thought, you only live once. Pricey is a bit of an understatement £42 for Sunday lunch for two, just one course, a pint of bitter and a half shandy. I don't know about only live once, I think we will be only going there once!

As we pass Newark, would you believe they are holding a cycle race on the main A1!

They must have a death wish, cars etc hurtling past at 70mph, and nothing to protect the cyclists.

The weather only gets worse, sleet, then snow.

Despite the weather, we arrive at the Tunnel early, we are booked on the 18:20 train, but, we are there in time to be switched to the 17:20 train.

Sitting in the line waiting to board, we see a new word on the information board. The train is delayed by a few minutes to 17:28, but, the information board reads "Train retimed to 17:28". Retimed, I suppose it sounds better than delayed. I did not know that Euro Tunnel had employed Peter Mandleson.

We spend the night at Gravelines aire (N50 59.310' E2 07.363'). Not nearly as busy as usual, lots of empty spaces.

Monday 18th March 2013

It rained all night, and is still raining when we leave.

South on the A16, towards Abberville, leave the motorway, at the point the toll starts, no point paying to do 60mph, you can do that for free on the "N" roads.

Kathleen has retired the Tomtom, for the day, because she is bored and fancies map reading. It makes a nice change for me too, instead of getting instructions like "turn left in 300 metres", I now get, "you should have turned left 300 metres ago, you will have to turn around".

We negotiate Rouen, right first time, and stop for lunch at Pont de l'Arche. We knew there was a Municipal Campsite there, but, there is a small Aire too, we found. Marked out spaces for four vans, what looks like a free electric hook up, and a service point.

As we head south the unremitting rain and sleet do ease off a little, we even get a brief spell of sunshine, which allows Kathleen to wear her sunglasses, for the first time since Yorkshire. It does not last long.

It is decided, tonight, we must have electricity. Kathleen is concerned about using too much of our gas, in case we run out before our 12 weeks are over. So, despite checking out a couple of promising Aires at Cloyes Sur Le Loir (N47 59.512' E1 13.936') and Vouvray (N47 24.549' E000 47.812'), we actually go to:

La Ville-aux-Dames, Les Acacias (N47 24'7" E0 46'48")

from the ACSI book. We have been here before, about five years ago, it has apparently changed management since then, and is better for it.

Free wifi, hence the blog update, but, we find the signal is not good enough to sustain a Skype conversation.