Camping Strandbad, Mannheim (N49.450137, E8.445048) contd...

Tuesday, 10th September 2019

A bright sunny day, 21C, by lunch time, even at 09:00 it is warm enough for people to be having a picnic breakfast, on the banks of the Rhine.

We decide to cycle north, along the Rhine, trying to keep to the opposite bank (ie the eastern bank) too yesterday. It proves quite difficult, since we are soon in a busy built-up area, then, before we know it, in central Mannheim.

We find a bridge, and, cross to the western bank. It is still an urban area, but, with excellent cycling infrastructure.

Soon we are cycling alongside a massive BASF Factory, not that you would readily know it was a factory, since it is all neatly landscaped and very well kept.

We eventually give up on the idea of riding beyond the edge of the city, and turn

around, with the intention of finding somewhere to eat our picnic lunch.

We eventually find what we think is a public park, but, it turns out to be the grounds of a BASF training building. 

The grounds appear to be open to the public, well, that is, no-one challenges two elderly cyclists sitting on a park bench, eating their sandwiches and drink bottles of railer (shandy).

Fortified, we head off, in search of ice-cream. We recall that, on our way here, we passed a bar/cafe, on the Rhine Promenade, which, we suspect, will sell ice-cream.

We find the Rhine Bridge, and, even find our way up, onto the cycle track, but, at the other side we are completely baffled by the maze of cycle tracks, and tunnels, leading in every direction. There are sign posts, but, since we do not know where any of the places are, they are of little use. We can SEE where we want to be, but, there is a railway line, between us and the river. 

After several abortive tries along various tracks, including riding into the University, Kathleen eventually, deduces the correct tunnel, and, we find the bar/cafe to have our ice-cream.

We arrive back at Camping Strandbad having ridden 17 miles.

The site seems much busier today, and, soon, we have new neighbours, a couple of Aussies (man and wife), who are Motor Racing (GP) fans and have been to the Belgian Grand-prix and the Italian Grand-Prix. They are on their way to Frankfurt to drop off their hired Campervan, and fly home. 

We spend a pleasant evening chatting to them. 

They borrow my van cleaning gear (bucket, sponge, chamois leather) to clean their van, before returning it, and, give us their unused milk, kitchen roll, and, a pack of serviettes, they must be posh Aussies, serviettes, in a camper van!

Wednesday, 11th September 2019

Another beautiful day, 25C by lunch time.

Our Aussie neighbours leave at about 10:00, leaving us with even more surplus items, sugar, jam, eggs!

We have planned a "lazy" day, a few chores and some reading.

Kathleen does some clothes washing, first, then we decide to find the nearest Lidl, for wine and treats.

We set off on our bicycles, according to Google, it is about 2 miles away, in a place called Lindenhof. Eventually, we ask a very helpful lady, who tells us, in perfect English, how to find the Lidl. We arrive having covered about 4 miles!

Big disappointment, this Lidl does not appear to sell one of my favourite treats, they are a sort of Danish Pastry, a spiral of pastry, with lots of raisons embedded in it. They sell them in UK, and, in France, but, not here. I have to settle for bar(s) of chocolate.

We end up with more shopping than I can fit in my backpack, so, I end up with a back pack, and a carrier bag tied to the back pack!

We take a risk on finding our way back, without retracing our steps, relying on my gut instinct for directions, which Kathleen, of course, does not trust,

My instincts are correct, we find our way back to Camping Strandbad, no problem, and, it is only about 2.5 miles, quite why Google directed us the way it did, I have no idea!

Thursday, 12th September 2019

The day starts nicely, sunny and warm, but, as we travel toward Koblenz, it become overcast, with the odd shower, however, by 16:00, at Geisenheim, it is sunny and a very warm 23C.

From what I have already said, we decide to move on from Camping Strandbad, and head for Geisenheim, a place we have visited before. 

Approximately 75 miles, almost all motorway.

We had tried to find Geisenheim Am Rhein / Rheingau Camping N49.979271, E7.95744, in the ACSI Book, without success. 

On arrival, we understand what, it is no longer an ACSI site. 

We are even puzzled by the site name, it was called Geisenheim Am Rhein, the last time we were here (2013), and, according to SearchForSites website, it still is, however, the paperwork we are given is headed Rheingau Camping. 

No matter what the name, the site is good, and, we are allocated an excellent location, overlooking the Rhine, with ducks swimming up and down the river, and, a constant procession of barges and cruise boats sailing past.

For the first time, since leaving Cite Europe, Calais, we have several UK Vans onsite.

After lunch, Kathleen disappears to attend to hair washing duties, whilst I get us "set up".

After our evening meal, we have a short (3,5 mile) cycle ride to explore the immediate area, and, locate the nearest Church and Lidl.

Sadly, it would appear the Geisenheim Lidl does not sell my favourite pastry either!

Camping Strandbad, Mannheim (N49.450137, E8.445048)

Monday, 9th September 2019


The rain has stopped, but, still cloudy and cool. 

We decide to move on, it is very pretty here at Eberbach, but, the weather does not look promising.

A very short drive, approximately 35 miles, to Mannheim, Camping Strandbad (N49.450137, E8.445048). A site on the banks of the River Rhine, just outside of Mannheim. It has mixed reviews, on SearchForSites, (one good one bad).So far, it appears to be a typical "city" campsite, ie, a bit rough at the edges, but, contrary to the (bad) review, the warden seems a perfectly likeable chap, to us. One point, not mentioned in the reviews, is the extremely tight entrance, and narrow approach road, I don't know what you would do if you met something coming the other way, certainly beyond my reversing skills to reverse through that entrance!

The site is on level ground, on the banks of the River Rhine, we can almost claim to have a view of the Rhine, it is just visible, past the telegraph pole, between the trees!

We arrived around lunch time, so, after lunch, we set off on the bicycles for a "small" explore.

Apparently, it is not permitted to ride bicycles in "the park", but, there is an excellent cycle route, following the river (we are told after inadvertently cycling where we should not have been).

The "small" explore takes us on a 14 mile round trip.

First, we ride through a forested area on the banks of the Rhine, then into a more urban, park area.

Kathleen is having an adventurous day, we cross the river on a large road/railway bridge (with dedicated cycle track of course, cycle onto an island in the Rhine, through a park, then, back via another even larger bridge, again with dedicated cycle track.

We find our way remarkably well, with only a

slight "hiccup" after crossing the second bridge, the cycle route takes us some distance from the river, and, we are aware that there are several "channels" and islands in the river, and, that we must ensure we end up on the "correct" bank.

No problem, after a small detour, planned of course, through a rather shabby area of warehouses and docks, we emerge, back on the cycle track we recognise.

To Eberbach, Germany

Friday, 6th September 2019

Another pleasant day is promised, but, today we are leaving Pont-a-Mousson, and heading for Germany.

A quick good bye, to our Dutch neighbours, who have been polite enough to barely mention Brexit, and, away we go, via Lidl, for wine.

Approximately 160 miles, mostly on free, excellent quality, but, very busy German Motorways.

Eberbach is approximately 20 miles upriver from Heidleburg, on the River Necker. Camping Eberbach (N49 27'38" E8 58'57"), is alongside the river, on the opposite bank to most of the town of Eberbach. It is an ACSI Site, 18Euro/night.

The church is located, ready for Sunday! 

Saturday, 7^th September 2019

Camping Eberbach (N49 27'38" E8 58'57") contd...

A grey and cool day, with occasional light showers, only 15C, rather chilly.

Domestic chores, Kathleen interacts with the very bossy young lady in reception, to obtain the key to use the Washing Machines. That should be interesting, a referee will probably be required! 

But, I have no time to spectate, I have to assemble the clothes dryer, under the awning, out of the rain, ready for the wet clothes. 

Actually, the young lady in reception is not really bossy, more sort of straight talking and very efficient, in a German sort of way. They must often wonder, “how on earth did we manage to lose the war?”.

The rain does not appear to have deterred the rowers, why are practicing, up and down the river, followed by coaches giving instructions and encouragement(?) through megaphones. I always thought that rowing was a quintissentiually English pastime, but, it would appear to be something else we have in common with our German cousins.

Sunday, 8th September 2019

Camping Eberbach (N49 27'38" E8 58'57") contd...

Oh dear! It has poured with rain all night, and, it is forecast to continue for most of today, not very good, plus, we are parked on grass, at the bottom of a hill.

Kathleen does her church stuff.

I am delegated the task of searching out a suitable restaurant (with Italian food), for lunch, which I do, but, when El Jefe emerges from church, the mind has changed, and, no longer wants Italian Food, so, we go to a place which appears busy, with locals(?) and Kathleen risks a Vienna Schnitzel, which she very much enjoys.

We decline a 'sweet". and, instead, visit a nearby cake shop, for enormous and very tasty pieces of cake.

The rain comes and goes, all day.

Pont-a-Mousson (Aire) N48 54'4" E6 3'51" contd...

Tuesday, 3rd September 2019

A cool start to the day, 14C, autumn is approaching, but, by lunch time it was a very pleasant 23C.

Cycling in the morning, before the heat builds up, along the cycle route beside the River Moselle, toward Nancy, beyond where we went yesterday, for ten miles.

The cycle track is superb, good smooth tarmac most of the way, and, almost all traffic free.

It occurs to me that we have not seen any passing boat traffic, although the river and sections of canal are clearly meant for major size boats.

For example, we pass this super sized lock at one point.

No sooner have I had this thought, than a barge converted into a pleasure boat comes along. Banners on the sides tell us it is a "cycling cruise" whatever that may be?

We make it back to Pont-a-Mousson to enjoy a cold beer for me, and a shandy (Panache) for Kathleen.

The day is not all pleasure, I have run our of red wine, so, it is necessary to find a shop! Google to the rescue, tells us there is a Lidl 1.6km (1 mile) away. We walk there stock up with goodies, including red wine.

Wednesday, 4th September 2019

A repeat of yesterday, a cool start, 14C, but, by lunch time it was a very pleasant 23C.

Kathleen has a repeat of the "mysterious" tingling and skin blemishes on the legs. This first happened when we were visiting Rome, several years ago. No satisfactory explanation really? Is it the heat, is it walking? A day of rest and relaxation, I think, today.

We book in for another two days.

For me, a cycle ride to Lidl, for various essentials.

Reading the BBC news is depressing, the Brexit saga lumbers on, it looks as if we will be returning to a General Election. Our Dutch neighbours are politely mystified by UK's "goings on".

Thursday, 5th September 2019

A decidedly cool 15C start to the day, but, 20C, with sunshine, by lunch time.

We cycle 25 miles, there and back, along the Moselle, to the North, Pont-a-Mousson - Noveant-sur-Moselle.

A lunch stop, beer and the PMU Bar and chips from the Kebab shop, all paid for by Kathleen.

This latter point may require some clarification. This morning, before we set out, Kathleen was counting how many Euros she had left. Now, we have been in France for ten days, and, she started with 125Euro, this morning, she has 95Euro left, so, only 30Euro spent in tent days, no wonder she has money in the bank!

Camping Les Rives du Lac, (N48 18"10' E4 20" 16") at Geraudot,

Saturday, 31st August 2019

Camping Les Rives du Lac, contd...


Clear blue sky, 34C by lunch time.

Today, was planned as a "take it easy day", after yesterday's efforts, but, we went for a short cycle ride, along the VoieVelo, in the opposite direction to yesterday, and, ten miles later, at Radonvilliers, decided we should turn around and head back, so, twenty miles in total!

Sadly Kathleen's picnic organising skills are not as good as her cycling skills, and, in ten miles, we fail to spot a bar or shop, so, we have to wait until we get back to the van, for sustenance.

We have received the link for Bryan and Joans blog here, but, cannot add a comment for some reason! 

Sunday, 1st September 2019

Camping Les Rives du Lac, contd...

After the excellent weather we have had so far, a disappointing start to the day, a cool 18C, cloudy, with occasional showers.

The plan for today was to have an easy, relaxing day, after our two consecutive "20 miles" days. But, it is Sunday, so, Kathleen is determined to go to church (in Lusigny-sur-Barse). There is a church there, and, Kathleen's enquiries at the adjacent hairdressers, suggested there was a mass at 10:30, Sunday, either that, or, she has made a hair dressing appointment for then!

Well, after pedalling 6.5 miles, there is no Mass. All is not lost, the Carrefour is open, so, we are able to stock up on some essentials, ie wine.

Monday, 2nd September 2019

Leave Géraudot today, heading for Port Plaisance, Nancy, 48.6921, 6.19346, a rather expensive Aire (25Euro/night) with reasonable reviews on Search for a Site website, roughly 125 miles.

On arrival, not impressed, scrappy appearance, some kind of trench digging in progress, alongside very busy road, all that for 17Euro/night, no thank you.

So, we pushed on to Pont-a-Mousson N48 54'4" E6 3'51", an Aire we have used before, some years ago.

Marked out bays. Divided into two sections (surprisingly, named section 1 and section 2),  water and electricity at each bay, good quality showers and toilets available 08:00-20:00 at the modern Capitainaire building, very pleasant Attendant, all for 10Euro/night.

Town approximately five minutes walk.

Once "settled in", Kathleen announces she would like to go for a short cycle ride, to

explore.

We end up doing just over 12 miles along an excellent cycle track alongside the River Moselle.

We spend the evening in the sun, drinking wine, it is a hard life. ;)

A slight puzzle, to me at least, is, why is it called "Pont-a-Mousson", true, there is a bridge (Pont), but, the River is the Moselle, so, why not "Pont-a-Moselle"?

No room at the Inn!

Thursday, 29th August 2019

A much cooler 18C as we leave Amiens.

Approximately 140 easy miles to our next stop, which is planned as Lac d'Orient, Mesnil-St-Pere, but, see below!

We arrive at Mesnil-St-Pere, about 20 miles East of Troyes, as we drive along the very attractive beach on the lake shore, it looks ominously busy. 

We find  Lac d'Orient, (N48 15'48" E4 20' 48"). As we thought, it does not look promising, there is a queue of five or six vans/caravans snaking out of the entrance. Sure enough, it is full, the first time in 12 years of roaming mainland Europe, with nothing booked, that we have been turned away!

The young lady in Reception gives us a slip of paper with several alternative sites (being full is clearly not unusual!).

We settle on Camping Les Rives du Lac, (N48 18"10' E4 20" 16") at Geraudot, about five miles along the lake shore. It is after 17:00 when we arrive there, fortunately, they have spaces available.

Friday, 30th August 2019

A glorious day, 25C, blue sky.

In our haste to find a pitch yesterday, we inadvertently chose the spot where all of the children on the site, gathered to feed the horses, in the adjacent field. 

The children are no real problem, but, they can make a surprising amount of noise, plus, after a couple of falling down incidents, when Kathleen had to use her nursing skills on grazed knees, we decided it would be more restful to move! 

This we duly did, this morning.

Yes, we are grumpy old gets, I agree! 

Next task, since Sunday is approaching, find the Church. 

We cycle along the excellent dedicated cycle route, into the vlllage (Geraudot). There is a church, but, no Mass this Sunday, but, we do find a notice board, with Masses listed at various nearby(?) villages.

We cycle on, still on an excellent tarmac dedicated cycle track (why can't we do things like this in UK?), around the Lac d'Orient. According to the signposting, the cycle track goes all the way to Troyes (30km away), at the 15km remaining point, we turn around and head back, to clock up just over 20 miles in total. We even find a sandwich shop, and, equally importantly, a bar.

After further household chores (ie clothes washing), without a single word of complaint, Kathleen relaxes with a Magnum Ice Cream.

Amiens - Les Parc des Cygnes

Tuesday, 27th August 2019

A hot morning, after an equally hot and humid night.

Approximately 100 miles to Amiens.

The journey is not straight forward. There is a road closure (Route Barre), this of course sends the Sat-Nav into a cycle of "turn around when possible" and "recalculating route", as we attempt to follow the diversion signs. 

What to do? 

I call on my back-up navigator, but, "the voice" says "I have not got a clue where we are", not sure that one is in the Sat-Nav repetoire.

Les Parc des Cygnes (N49.921009, E2.2599) chosen after reading reviews. As always, necessary to remember everyone has different standards. This site has some good points, ie, close to Amiens Centre, with a bus (which is free on hot days, when they wish to discourage cars entering the city!), and, good cycling tracks. It's down side is, facilities are at the bottom end of the scale we consider acceptable, clean, but, basic, and, not adequate in quantity.

It is incredibly hot, 35C! 

Given the heat, we lie about in the shade until late afternoon, then, we venture out on the bicycles, to Amiens and along the River Somme cycle route.

Overnight thunderstorm, very brief.

Wednesday, 28th August 2019

Last nights thunderstorm seems to have cooled thing down a little, a very pleasant morning, 22C.

We need some cash, we have been existing on the few Euro we had left over since last trip! 

Cycle into Amiens, test out my Starling Bank Debit card, to make commission free withdrawals of Euros, it works, sadly, the exchange rate continues to fall (£1 = Euro1.10), it would appear the Money Markets are not as confident as Boris! Who to trust?

We do the inevitable Cathedral visit. There are many photographs in the Cathedral of the restoration works, after WW1.

We follow up with a very pleasant stroll around Amiens, with a sandwich and a beer for lunch. 

How DO the French manage to make their towns/cities so pleasant?

Fortified, we cycle West along the banks of the Somme, according to Google, the excellent cycle track continues on to the Baie de Somme, but, we manage only 21 miles!